Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by stvlai, Jul 17, 2009.

  1. stvlai

    stvlai Guest


    I just got a 2 sets of Strobe lights and the Boom Stand. Got a couple
    question I hope someone can help answer

    Q1) White Balance
    I set the WB to the Gray Card shots that I took manually but the
    photos comes out bluish. Normally I use Model lights and set the WB
    per the Gray Card and it turns out fine. With strobes lights I am
    having this bluish color problem.

    Q2) Ceiling Lights turn off?
    When I use Strobes lights, do I turn off all the surrounding lights
    (e.g ceiling lights etc) and therefore leaving no lights except when
    the Strobe lights flashes? Is this way to do it?

    Any info would be very much appreciated. Thanks a bunch.

    stvlai, Jul 17, 2009
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  2. stvlai

    Mr. Strat Guest

    I used to leave room lights on when doing a family portrait, for
    example, and let the incandescents glow their normal orange/yellow.
    Mr. Strat, Jul 17, 2009
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  3. stvlai

    stvlai Guest

    Thank you so much for the valuable info! Really appreciate your tips.

    stvlai, Jul 17, 2009
  4. stvlai

    Fotoguy Guest

    It sounds like when you're doing the gray card WB the camera is trying to
    white balance ALL the lights, not just the flash. So, forget the gray
    card. Just use the camera's "Flash" or "Daylight" WB preset. That
    should be good enough. And take your camera off "Auto". Set f-stop and
    shutter speed manually.

    Also, how are you triggering the flashes?

    What camera are you using?

    What flashes?

    You can. Or if they are part of the composition, you can leave them on.
    It's entirely up to you and what type of effect you're looking for.

    Flash exposure is controlled with f-stops. With flash, since it's
    "instantaneous," shutter speeds have little affect on its exposure, but a
    lot on continuous light sources. So, if you set your shutter speed
    manually, you can control the amount of ambient light in your shots from
    a lot to none at all. But don't set the shutter speed higher than the
    flash sync speed. You can set it slower, just not faster.

    Contributing Expert
    "Personalized digital camera recommendations"
    Fotoguy, Jul 18, 2009
  5. stvlai

    Guest Guest

    Unless you are using the modeling lights as a light source or
    if they are very close matches to the strobes you are using, I would
    not expect good results.

    The other problem would be ambient light. They are going to
    have different influnces depending on a number of factors so your WB
    may be off.

    In the real world, if you are constantly getting the results
    you want with the technique you are using, then keep it up. If not
    try a few other ideas. Remember photography is both and art and a
    science. Of the two ART is the more important in my book.
    Guest, Jul 18, 2009
  6. I see far more casting (as with a salt water spinning reel) than pearls!
    And, it's Mister Swine to you!

    John McWilliams, Jul 24, 2009
  7. stvlai

    SMS Guest

    Ironically, if you use a Canon P&S, and load chdk onto it, you can have
    Flash-Sync speeds of 1/10,000 of second, sometimes more. This is the
    only technical advantage of a P&S digital camera.

    Some of the newer D-SLRs also have an electronic shutter and are not
    limited by the mechanical focal plane shutter and can go up to 1/500
    sec, the same as a good P&S without chdk.
    SMS, Jul 24, 2009
  8. stvlai

    Bob Larter Guest

    Brown, stinky ones.
    Bob Larter, Jul 24, 2009
  9. .... you just have to define image quality as "everything's in
    focus" and some more jokes of that kind, which are perfect
    for portraits, for example.

    Of course, connecting the studio flashes to the P&S is gonna
    be interesting ... ever seen a P&S with a PC connector, when
    most miss a basic hot shoe?
    Even assuming that was true it's about never a problem in the
    studio ...
    And an AF taking ages.
    So what good is 1/40,000s shutter with 1/10,000s flash? Yep,
    logic strikes again. Now, about the flash power at your fabulous
    speeds, is that even one milliwattsecond? Will it visibly light
    up a bright white paper 10 cm from the lens?
    Yes, if you glue the shutter open, you might have problems.
    Fortunately, normal people don't act like you.
    What was the reason for using studio flash units, again? To
    look cool or to have them stand in the way when you use that
    P&S of yours?

    [Snipped a lot of crap coming from a swine's mind. Let's
    adjust that for reality:]

    Betty: "Gee, little Billy boy looks so *zombie* with his gleaming
    paperwhite skin and his red red eyes! And his face looks so
    flat, too. And such great strong film grain, even in colour,
    just as if a demon had mixed up the image! The teacher
    always says he's possessed by the devil, but how did you
    manage to get him look so terrible on paper? All the other
    photographers can only show a little pretty angel, and never
    go all the way to show shots looking like real oil paintings
    by mad apes! And how he looks so ghost-translucent in parts!
    What's your secret?"

    Photographer: "Wellll, I bought a crappy P&S camera instead
    of my proper camera bodies and lenses, because some usenet
    troll without a real name said they were oh so much better.
    I spend many thousands on real gear, but that P&S won't even
    interface with my studio flashes. So I use it's inbuild flash
    for ultra short flashes, but have to expose very long to get
    at least some light onto the sensor.

    Now, the flash makes the eyes red and the skin zombie-ugly,
    and the long exposure makes your boy look translucent when
    he moves. Because of the little light I can use --- remember,
    my expensive studio flashes won't work --- I must use high
    ISO and brighten the image a lot --- that causes the demon
    ape colours all over, and the noise control software makes
    it all look detailless like an oil painting.

    Luckily that camera has a tripod hole, or it would look
    completely unsharp as well."

    Betty: "Marry me! I want your baby! Now!"
    [We close the curtains over the little scene where the Betty's eyes
    start glowing red, she turns half translucent and the photographer
    gets possessed as well.]
    You're so out of your depth, it's funny.

    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Jul 25, 2009
  10. .... if you count each wasted dollar on them as one (at least
    for the manufacturer) ...

    I have nothing to add to that piece of self-observation.

    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Jul 25, 2009
  11. stvlai

    Bob Larter Guest

    Really? - How exactly would you go about doing that with, say, a Canon
    Powershot S30?
    Bob Larter, Jul 26, 2009
  12. Show me the PC connector on a P&S.
    You might even find one, if you search long enough.
    Exilim Z-40. Show.

    Oh, and I'll want full control over all flash light sources.
    I did, I know. You didn't, obviously.

    [X-sync in studio, slow P&S AF]
    Looks like I scored a hit.
    Thank you for telling me I hit a sore sore spot.

    Fancy ideas you have:
    - about me
    - about studios
    - about shutter speeds and their effects in the real world
    - about the amount of light needed to register

    But being misinformed and completely unrealistic is in character
    for you.

    Thank you for admitting I am right.
    Exilim Z-40. Show.
    Contax SL300R. Show.

    Can't, can you? Thought so.
    I make everything up, you have experience with P&S and DSLRs
    alike and the world is flat.
    A solid hit! It (trolls have no gender) is *sore*.
    Yep, you should really follow your own advice.
    Finally you get it.
    True, you're not even amusing, Swine before Pearls.

    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Jul 26, 2009
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