stabilizing lenses (what lenses to get w/10D)

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by jonathan, Oct 6, 2003.

  1. jonathan

    jonathan Guest

    hey all,

    per a previous post on night work, I've decided that my best bet is a
    canon 10D (without totally breaking the bank yet still having the
    ability to do night shots with ambient light without tripod. we'll see
    if this plan pans out..;-))

    Now I need to decide which lenses to get. I was thinking about getting

    a) a telephoto lens
    b) a wide angle lens
    c) a standard zoom lens

    Given my need for night shots, I was hoping that all of them would be
    fairly fast, with one being f/1.4 and all having stabilization

    Anyways, I just went over to, and its enough to
    drive an aspiring photographer to drink.. ;-) hundreds of different
    lenses, technologies, combinations, etc. If I was that rich I'd
    probably just buy them all and play around with them, but no such

    Any tips on good lenses to buy, with price maybe being a consideration
    (but not the primary one)? And how does the image stabilization
    technology work, anyways? What are other good things to look for for
    someone who isn't all that hot on using a tripod?

    Thanks again,

    jonathan, Oct 6, 2003
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  2. Did you check to see which lenses offered IS? I think the number is fairly
    small. I'd check to see which ones offered IS and compare that to my wish
    list for lenses to see if there's a match.
    Phil Stripling, Oct 6, 2003
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  3. jonathan

    Simon Lee Guest

    jonathan choreographed a chorus line of high-kicking electrons to spell
    Image stabilization works by having a gyro in the lens detect
    movement; this information is used to move a lens element in the opposite
    direction to compensate. Keep in mind that IS will only give you about
    2-3 stops (on average, YMMV) of additional handholding speed vs. not
    having IS; it does not totally eliminate the tripod. Also if you want
    faster shutter speeds, IS is not the way to go about it--for that you
    need a lens with a larger minimum aperture. IS will give you more depth
    of field control and less shake--but it won't stop action. That said,
    it's a nice feature to have regardless; I've gotten sharp shots handheld
    at 1/4 sec with it, though I practice a lot :)

    Keep in mind that fast aperture + IS = more money...

    Probably the first choice for most other posters here will be the
    50mm f/1.8, which will give you the FOV of 80mm (and thus be a short
    telephoto) on the 10D, be nice and sharp (if a bit flimsy) and cost less
    than $100. Even if you get something else, get this anyway.

    Telephoto: The 85mm f/1.8 or the 100mm f/2. Moderately priced, but
    again the 10D's cropping factor will make them 136 and 160mm lenses, and
    they are quite fast.

    Standard zoom: For the all-eggs-in-one-basket approach, either the
    28-70 f/2.8 or its newer 24-70 f/2.8 sibling. Either one is close to the
    price you'll pay for the 10D to start with, but they're excellent lenses
    and fairly fast. The 28-70 will cover 45-112mm, the 24-70 38-112mm.
    If those are a bit much, there's the 28-105 f/3.5-5.6
    (specifically--not the cheaper new one), which is not "fast" per se but
    is a good lens for the price, and...

    ...the 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS. Yes, this one has IS unlike all of the
    other suggestions. As you can see the aperture isn't so fast, but it is
    a sharp lens, covers most of your range, and is moderately priced.
    Whether it the aperture is good *enough* depends on exactly what you plan
    on shooting by streetlight...

    Telephoto again: The 75-300mm f/4-5.6 IS. More reach than the
    other suggestions, same situation with maximum aperture as the 28-135.

    Wide angle: How wide? Again, considering the cropping factor,
    you'd be down to things like the 20mm f/2.8 at least. The only single-
    focal-length lenses below that are the 15mm fisheye (which will be
    distorted, but that's fixable in software) and the *expensive* 14mm...
    for zooms there's the 16-35 f/2.8 and the 17-35 f/2.8, again these will
    be premium... the 17-40 f/4 is half the price, but the extra stop might
    be critical...

    ...or not. Again, that depends on what you're shooting. I've used
    the 28-135 on still subjects in low light and done fairly well, but it's
    not going to cut it for, say, stopping the action of an indoor basketball
    game at your local high school. As was covered in the other thread,
    higher ISOs will help somewhat.

    This covers Canon OEM equipment; there are a few nice third-party
    options out there as well.
    Simon Lee, Oct 6, 2003
  4. jonathan

    Todd Walker Guest

    First of all, you won't find any lenses that are f/1.4 and have IS. The
    least expensive IS lens that Canon offers is the 28-135IS USM which is
    around $400. It is a fantastic lens for all around use. That would be
    your standard zoom. It is f/3.5-5.6 so it's not particularly fast but
    the IS does help quite a bit. Also keep in mind that the 10D has very
    low noise at high ISOs so you can crank it up to 800 or 1600 when you
    need a faster shutter speed.

    For a telephoto, I don't know how long you need the lens to be so it's
    hard to recommend one. The best from a money standpoint is probably
    going to be the 200mm f/2.8L at just over $600. Anything longer than
    that and you are well over the $1000 mark. And that's without IS.

    For the wide end, there's the 24mm f/2.8 for around $300, the 20mm f/2.8
    for around $400, and the 14mm f/2.8L for around $1700 ;-)

    Good luck! There are lots of great lenses out there...


    Todd Walker
    Canon 10D:
    My Digital Photography Weblog:
    Todd Walker, Oct 6, 2003
  5. jonathan

    Ken Alverson Guest

    You actually combined the new and the old. The older model is f/3.5-4.5,
    while the newer model is f/4-5.6.

    I have the f/3.5-4.5 and am happy with it.

    Ken Alverson, Oct 6, 2003
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