Sharpen Settings

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by n, May 20, 2004.

  1. n

    n Guest

    I have written about this before but would like more help. :)

    The Fuji lab will make A4 prints for me.

    I want to know what settings to use to sharpen my pictures as with
    sharpening we really seem to be unable to rely upon what we see on the
    monitor. i am going to be sending a big print order so i want to get
    it right or not do sharpening at all.

    (I use a Canon 10D which i love. Half my picture were shot raw half on
    large fine. I read that the camera processing is great in non raw
    shots so i would feel ok leaving them as they arebt if i can get them
    to look better... :)

    AFAIK there is no built in sharpening on a 10d that i would need to
    have had switched off before sharpening manually.

    I want to use nik sharpener pro, though i could try photoshop too.

    I will stick the prints on a wall for people to see at reading

    I would like to know what settings to use:

    what should i use as this value? It is a fuji print shop, remember.
    The dpi...? Is it laser or ink jet or...?

    No problems with that

    OK, it has a setting for top end digital cameras, and the 10D is top
    end, right?! :)
    But it also says for cameras with more than 4.2 million pixels use
    the appropriate middle or large format transparency setting. The
    options there are:

    APS film
    Small Format Slide (35mm or similar slides, positive or negative)
    Medium Format Slides (medium format positive or negative)
    Large Transparency (Large transparency of any format)

    Which should I select?
    These won't be effected by whether I shoot RAW or Large Fine, will
    (Large fine = .TIFF Large ordinary =jpeg, right?)

    Do I leave this as default in the centre or move it up to good?

    It is a laser, right? and a good quality one, I think... so I move
    this up to the right and set is as good...

    Well, they might come close to peer at it so I guess I should set this
    as Book, as if they were holiding it in their hands.

    I have yet to see some well made prints with this yet but i guess ZAP
    would be the most impressive sharpening...?
    n, May 20, 2004
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  2. n

    nixjunk Guest

    I have written about this before but would like more help. :)

    Nik Sharpener Pro isn't necessary and I think a waste of money. What I would do
    if I were you is to set your images to your A4 size and whatever the ppi is for
    that size I would divide that by 375 for your radius setting and use an amount
    of 175%. I never use the threshold setting as too much doesn't look natural and
    too little doesn't make any practical difference. These are the settings I
    normally use for images I get from my film scanner and my images match optical
    images I used to get straight from the negative. An alternative for a noisier
    picture would be to divide the ppi by 325 and lower the amount to 150. That
    would give a slightly greater radius and slightly less grittiness. To be honest
    though the difference is not readily apparent from the previous settings I
    mentioned unless you are picky. Your 10D files should be nice and creamy clean
    so I would stick with the first settings above. How did I arrive at these
    values? By running alot of test prints. This formula works for any size print.
    Not sure how well it would work for pictures greatly upsampled in size as I
    never do that.

    If I am not mistaken, by default, your Canon does sharpen so I would experiment
    by running a test A4 with a sampled section repeated throughout the print with
    different values around the ones I gave you. Mark them to know the values of
    each section.

    The most important setting is knowing how much of a radius to apply for a
    particular print size. Once you find one that works for that size print
    remember it so you can apply the same proportional amount to any size print
    like I explained above.
    Laser. I believe the Fuji machine expects files set at 300ppi so you can size
    it to A4 at 300ppi. If I were you I would skip that step and work with the
    original file size and simply set your A4 size without doing any resampling. It
    is said that the machines cannot do anything more than the 300 ppi it is
    designed for but I get prints done on a Noritsu that expects files at 320ppi
    and I regularly give it files much higher than that and I see slightly
    noticeable improvement in detail and smoothness.

    I don't like sharpening programs like Nik Sharpener Pro because you never know
    exactly what it is doing and I also don't believe in selective sharpening for
    different areas of the picture for most pictures. I also don't believe in
    spending so much money on something you can do yourself with excellent results.
    nixjunk, May 20, 2004
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