Problems with a new MB p4m800 pro-m7

Discussion in 'Computer Information' started by Kyote, Dec 2, 2006.

  1. Kyote

    Kyote Guest

    I just bought this motherboard from tigerdirect.com, p4m800 pro-m7,
    I've bought many things over the years from them and never had any
    trouble. I guess it was inevitable that I would have a problem sooner
    or later.

    I got my MB, CPU, DDR2 and heatsink/fan Friday evening around 7:00pm.
    I put most of it together last night then went to bed and finished it
    this morning.

    First I installed everything, as I have previously with other systems
    I've built in the past. Then when I was finished double checking
    everything this morning I plug her in and nothing.. well, the chassis
    fan and CPU fan budged just a fraction, and the built in LAN light
    flickered on then right back off and now nothing.

    I turned the power off then began removing items 1 at a time and
    re-trying, cd-rom, hard drive, ram, AGP card etc... With the same
    result. The 2 fans barely budge then nothing, totally dead. The only
    things plugged in currently are my chassis fan and my CPU fan, but I
    still get nothing except that slight movement of those fans.

    I can't contact Biostars tech support for the MB until Monday, but to
    me that's too long. I went to the Biostar web site but it is
    absolutely no help at all.

    I know, from experience, that sometimes we can overlook something
    extremely basic. That's why I'm posting here. Hoping that I've
    overlooked something that might cause this to happen.

    Can anyone here think of what may be causing this? Any help would be
    highly appreciated.
     
    Kyote, Dec 2, 2006
    #1
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  2. Kyote

    Baron Guest

    Recheck with the mainboard out of the chassis !
     
    Baron, Dec 2, 2006
    #2
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  3. Kyote

    Kyote Guest


    do you mean pull the MB and then power the MB up? If that's what you
    mean is it ok to do that? I've never done that before. I don't want to
    waste $200. So I need to verify that's what you mean before I try it.
     
    Kyote, Dec 3, 2006
    #3
  4. Kyote

    Pen Guest

    What he means is to try the mobo out of the case on a non conductive
    surface, This will help eliminate shorts to ground in the mobo mounts.
    it is very possible that one or more of your mounting spacers is in fact
    shorting out the mobo.
     
    Pen, Dec 3, 2006
    #4
  5. Kyote

    Grappletech Guest



    Some guy who has a website about running SETI&HOME (distributed computing
    project to help find radio signals from other worlds) has a lot of his
    PC's just lying bare on nonconductive surfaces. Just a bunch of mobo's
    lying flat, no cases, crunching numbers 24/7. He's one of the most
    prolific SETI users.
     
    Grappletech, Dec 3, 2006
    #5
  6. Kyote

    Kyote Guest

    Sorry guy's. I didn't realize that could be done. But I just pulled it
    out and reconnected the CPU fan and chassis fan and got the exact same
    thing. Both fans move just slightly then nothing. I then unplugged the
    chassis fan but left the CPU fan connected with the same result.

    Any other ideas? Or is it DOA?
     
    Kyote, Dec 3, 2006
    #6
  7. Kyote

    Baron Guest

    Yes ! I always build and test out of the chassis. If I have a problem
    at this point, then I only have three NEW items that could be faulty !
    Mainboard, CPU, Memory ! The PSU is one that is only used for testing.
    The video card if needed is only used for testing. As is the keyboard.
     
    Baron, Dec 3, 2006
    #7
  8. Kyote

    Baron Guest

    Right ! At this point, unless you have spare components to swap out
    with, its, as you say DOA.
     
    Baron, Dec 3, 2006
    #8
  9. Kyote

    Kyote Guest

    Well, thanks for all your help. If nothing else I learned something
    new. And to me that's valuable in itself. It's a shame though that
    it's DOA. Ahh well, tomorrow is Monday and I can see about returning
    it for a replacement. Thanks again for the help.
     
    Kyote, Dec 3, 2006
    #9
  10. Kyote

    Baron Guest

    Its sad when you put in all the time and effort to discover that all you
    have achieved is testing components for the supplier !
     
    Baron, Dec 3, 2006
    #10
  11. Kyote

    JTJersey Guest

    If he pulls the CPU fan connector won't the system fail to boot to prevent
    frying the CPU? If that connector is bad or the fan is bad it maybe won't
    power up at all?
     
    JTJersey, Dec 3, 2006
    #11
  12. Kyote

    Baron Guest

    Most mainboards have fan failure detection, but that won't normally stop
    the boot process. It will however sound an alarm signal. But if the
    CPU isn't running then it won't make any difference.
     
    Baron, Dec 3, 2006
    #12
  13. Kyote

    Oldus Fartus Guest

    Double check that the BIOS clear jumpers are not in the clear position.
     
    Oldus Fartus, Dec 3, 2006
    #13
  14. Kyote

    Kyote Guest

    I did try this as a last option with no improvement. The reason I
    tried it was because the last motherboard I bought, it's manual, said
    the clear bios pin count was one way and it turned out that the manual
    was wrong. The way the manual said it should be for operation was in
    fact the way it should be to clear the bios. I spent several hours
    working on that computer, frustrated to all hell, before I thought to
    try that as a last ditch effort. Sure enough that worked then. But not
    this time.

    But thank you very very much for the idea. Had this been the last time
    and I hadn't thought to try that it would have saved me. I just wish
    it was the case this time.
     
    Kyote, Dec 4, 2006
    #14
  15. Kyote

    Oldus Fartus Guest

    Yeah, I have been caught out a couple of times with that too. Sorry it
    wasn't the case this time.
     
    Oldus Fartus, Dec 4, 2006
    #15
  16. Kyote

    Kyote Guest

    I got a response from Biostar today. they told me to try 2 things and
    they follow

    1) Try without CPU to see if it’s related to the CPU

    2) Try remove the motherboard from the case and power up from outside
    of the case, could be motherboard is shorted in the case.

    Now, I've already contacted Tigerdirect and got my return number so
    this is no big deal. But it's another thing I didn't know and would be
    valuable information to me. But since I've never tried it I figured
    I'd ask here and see if some of the more experienced tech's, that I
    respect, know of this.

    You've already told me to try doing it out of the case, and I did. It
    was the same. So I know step 2 they recommended is a legitimate test.

    But step 1 above.. would a MB give any response what-so-ever without a
    CPU inserted? If so what should be the response? Only post codes?
    would a chassis or CPU fan turn?

    See, I have another MB & CPU from a computer that I considered fried.
    But if I can do this without damaging anything, and know what to look
    for, then I may be able to repair that computer. I was never able to
    determine if it was the CPU or the MB that got fried, because I had no
    extra parts to use for testing and didn't want to spend the money on
    buying additional parts.

    I suspect it was the CPU that got toasted. If so then I can get me
    another and have me a second, or backup computer. Maybe even sell it
    to make a little money to improve my current system.

    Thank you all very much. And thank you in advance for any info you can
    share on this.
     
    Kyote, Dec 4, 2006
    #16
  17. Kyote

    w_tom Guest

    "Try this and try that" is also called shotgunning. Notice after all
    that time, you still are not sure what is and is not failed. One finds
    power supply 'system' problems quickly (in minutes) using only a 3.5
    digit multimeter. Yes, it is a 'system' - not just the power supply.

    In your case, the first measurement (with everything connected) is
    when computer is powered off and power cord connected to AC mains.
    Purple wire voltage must exceed 4.87 volts. Based upon previous posts,
    it probably does.

    Then move on to green and gray wire. Green wire should be greater
    than 2 volts before pressing power switch - and drop to less than 0.8
    volts when switch is pressed. Again, it probably does. Gray wire
    should then rise from near zero volts to well above 2.4 volts in but
    seconds. It probably does not.

    We then move on to finding which voltages are failing and reported
    failed by gray wire. Measure one of red, yellow, and orange wires as
    power switch if pressed. What do they do?

    In but minutes, we have obtained sufficient information to isolate a
    problem to one suspect. All this without swapping or disconnecting
    anything. All this accomplished in but minutes. And numbers that make
    possible useful replies to your posts.

    Last thing I would suspect is a toasted CPU. But again, CPU would
    have nothing to do with the problem as you had posted. Just another
    "try this and try that" shotgunning from those who did not first learn
    how the various parts of a power supply 'system' operate.

    Meter is a tool as essential as a screwdriver. So ubiquitous as to be
    sold in Radio Shack, Kmart, Sears, Wal-mart, Home Depot, Lowes, and
    most other hardware stores. A tool typically costing $20 is even found
     
    w_tom, Dec 5, 2006
    #17
  18. Kyote

    Kyote Guest

    I know this message is old but thought I'd update it and say thanks.
    Thanks for the idea. I will be purchasing a multi-meter next tiem I'm
    out and remember.

    It turns out it was the power supply though. I didn't even suspect it
    and once that was replaced everything worked just fine. I can't belive
    I went over a year with it not working all because of the power
    supply... Live and learn. I gotta get me a meter so I can diagnose
    things like this without 'shotgunning'

    Thanks again everyone for all the help.
     
    Kyote, Dec 29, 2007
    #18
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