planning a wired LAN on 2 floors

Discussion in 'Network Routers' started by Lorenzo Sandini, Jan 2, 2011.

  1. Hello,

    I am planning the new house's LAN and I have to find a good compromise
    between lots of cables or a lot of devices.

    My ISP brings optical fibre to our home, and the optical signal is
    transduced to DVB-C for the TV and a Zyxel ES315-F switch transform the
    signal to a standard Ethernet 100Mbit network.

    I am planning to install a router after the Zyxel switch, to provide
    DHCP/NAT and firewall, and connect an unmanaged layer 2 16-port Gbit
    switch (Switch A) after that and place Cat6 cables to 14 RJ45 plugs in
    the walls of the first floor.

    Wiring the second floor is my problem. Should I rather opt for a 36 or
    48 port switch A downstairs and make the whole network as a star, or can
    I put a second switch (Switch B) connected to switch A and make a second
    "star" upstairs ?

    If I put a switch on each floor, should both of them be separately
    connected to my router, or should they be daisy-chained ? I want my
    upstairs computers to get media files from the file server downstairs
    through at maximal speed.

    24 port Gbit switches cost about 100 euros (TP-link, D-Link), while
    48-port switches cost as much as 450 euros, and a star-shaped network
    with a single switch would need much more Cat6 cable.

    What would be a good design for my home ?

    Thanks, Lorenzo
     
    Lorenzo Sandini, Jan 2, 2011
    #1
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  2. Lorenzo Sandini

    Bernard Peek Guest

    Yes you can do that. All gigabit switches are auto-sensing on all ports
    so you can daisy-chain the upstairs switch by connecting it to any spare
    port on the downstairs one, you don't need to use a crossover connection.
    They should be daisy-chained. If you connect them separately to the
    router then you will only have a 100Mb connection between machines on
    switch A and machines on switch B.
     
    Bernard Peek, Jan 2, 2011
    #2
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  3. What I like to do with new houses is to put the router and switches in
    the basement and run the cheap flexible (low voltage) plastic conduit to
    all the Ethernet locations. Most home centers have the flexible low
    voltage conduit, outlet boxes, and connectors to do this. I have even
    seen this done using plastic irrigation tubing so as to eliminate the
    connections between individual plastic conduit sections.

    This gives me a home run for all the ethernet outlets to the central
    location in the basement where I have also added a couple of outlets to
    power any router, switches, or other equipment needed to connect to the
    outside world.

    You should have no problem with cable lengths in a private home using a
    central location like a basement for all your router/switch equipment
    and have no need for a switch on the second floor.

    Using the low voltage conduit also allows you to later replace a
    defective cable or upgrade to fiber should it become the "standard".

    Using an additional switch on the second floor requires the use of an
    outlet as well as room for the Ethernet cables. Too many times I've
    seen people try to stick a switch in a closet to hide it and the cables
    only to later have clothing cover it and cause it to over heat and burn out.
     
    GlowingBlueMist, Jan 2, 2011
    #3
  4. 2.1.2011 17:00, GlowingBlueMist kirjoitti:

    Thank you both for your answers.

    Conduits are planned for all the wiring, and a star-shaped network with
    one switch only was the original plan. However in case of a switch
    failure, the whole network goes down.

    In a 2-switch scenario, replacing a switch is less expensive and I still
    have a working network on one floor.

    The ISP's switch, my router and first switch will be placed on the lower
    floor, and I have an office on the second floor, where the second switch
    will be placed, and from where the cabling will go the all other rooms.

    Especially important is the having the media files on the file server
    downstairs streamed to the upper floor rooms. The TP-Link SG1024D seems
    to suit my needs and is quite affordable. I have 13 RJ45 plugs
    downstairs and 19 plugs upstairs, so the other available ports will be
    for wireless access points and occasional use.

    Can't wait to start wiring :)

    Any comments about wireless access points are welcome at this point.
    I'll have to use different channels on the 2 floors to avoid
    interference. It's a concrete building with thick walls (welcome to
    scandinavia), and I don't need coverage everywhere, only in a few spots
    in the house.

    Cheers, Lorenzo
     
    Lorenzo Sandini, Jan 2, 2011
    #4
  5. Lorenzo Sandini

    Char Jackson Guest

    Personally, I like the idea of running all the cables to a single
    location, regardless of whether that is the first or second floor.
    Even with a single central point, you're not limited to using one big
    switch. If you'd like, (and I think your reasoning is valid), you can
    use a switch for each floor and then trunk them together. If you lose
    a switch, you lose a floor, and if it's not the floor you wished you
    had lost, you can swap a few cables and presto, that floor is back up
    and the other floor is down until you replace the switch.
    Realistically, though, it seems rare to lose a switch. I've got half a
    dozen switches scattered around the house, (I didn't plan ahead like
    you're doing!), and they've been running for years with no problems.
     
    Char Jackson, Jan 2, 2011
    #5
  6. Lorenzo Sandini

    John Carter Guest

    I echo the switch faillure comment also.
    Our company installed a switched network using all expensive,
    commercial
    quality switches, originally 10mb speed. As we upgraded to higher
    (100) switches, we found that we could purchase a less expensive
    quality switch and still have the same failure rate (no failures in
    7 years). We now have upgraded to gigabit switches at the lower cost
    (not only lower cost because of naturally decreasing price points),
    but also less than the best commercially available units. It is
    now 9 years later and we have had NO switch failures. We have had a
    lot of cable connector problems, mostly at the client end as they
    tend be less careful with the cables!
     
    John Carter, Jan 8, 2011
    #6
  7. Lorenzo Sandini

    Storm Aiden

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2011
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    > Hello,
    My is storm

    >> I am planning the new house's LAN and I have to find a good compromise
    >> between lots of cables or a lot of devices.

    >> My ISP brings optical fibre to our home, and the optical signal is
    >> transduced to DVB-C for the TV and a Zyxel ES315-F switch transform the
    >> signal to a standard Ethernet 100Mbit network.

    >> I am planning to install a router after the Zyxel switch, to provide
    >> DHCP/NAT and firewall, and connect an unmanaged layer 2 16-port Gbit
    >> switch (Switch A) after that and place Cat6 cables to 14 RJ45 plugs in
    >> the walls of the first floor.

    >> Wiring the second floor is my problem. Should I rather opt for a 36 or
    >> 48 port switch A downstairs and make the whole network as a star, or can
    >> I put a second switch (Switch B) connected to switch A and make a second
    >> "star" upstairs ?

    > Yes you can do that. All gigabit switches are auto-sensing on all ports
    > so you can daisy-chain the upstairs switch by connecting it to any spare
    > port on the downstairs one, you don't need to use a crossover connection.

    >> If I put a switch on each floor, should both of them be separately
    >> connected to my router, or should they be daisy-chained ? I want my
    >> upstairs computers to get media files from the file server downstairs
    >> through at maximal speed.

    > They should be daisy-chained. If you connect them separately to the
    > router then you will only have a 100Mb connection between machines on
    > switch A and machines on switch B.

    What I like to do with new houses is to put the router and switches in
    the basement and run the cheap flexible (low voltage) plastic conduit to
    all the Ethernet locations. Most home centers have the flexible low
    voltage conduit, outlet boxes, and connectors to do this. I have even
    seen this done using plastic irrigation tubing so as to eliminate the
    connections between individual plastic conduit sections.

    This gives me a home run for all the ethernet outlets to the central
    location in the basement where I have also added a couple of outlets to
    power any router, switches, or other equipment needed to connect to the
    outside world.

    You should have no problem with cable lengths in a private home using a
    central location like a basement for all your router/switch equipment
    and have no need for a switch on the second floor.

    Using the low voltage conduit also allows you to later replace a
    defective cable or upgrade to fiber should it become the "standard".

    Using an additional switch on the second floor requires the use of an
    outlet as well as room for the Ethernet cables. Too many times I've
    seen people try to stick a switch in a closet to hide it and the cables
    only to later have clothing cover it and cause it to over heat and burn out.
     
    Storm Aiden, Feb 22, 2011
    #7
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