My PC will only boot after 10-15 minutes by pressing the reset button!!

Discussion in 'Computer Support' started by jinny, Dec 28, 2007.

  1. jinny

    jinny Guest

    AMD700, WinXP Pro SP2.

    Hi.
    My PC has begun acting strangely. When I press the "on" button,
    nothing happens however if I leave it on for about 10-15 minutes then
    press the "reset" button It boots fine, as normal.
    After I have pressed the "on" button the PC seems to go through some
    of the POST, the CD and floppy lights flicker which I assume is the
    BIOS checking to see where to boot from but then nothing. The monitor
    remains blank also I don't hear the H\D moving. 10-15 minutes later,
    after pressing the reset button the PC boots as normal and performs as
    normal.
    Logic would seem to imply some failing component in the PC needs to
    warm up before the PC can boot.
    Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    TIA and a happy new year.
     
    jinny, Dec 28, 2007
    #1
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  2. jinny

    Meat Plow Guest

    AMD 700? Old enough to have high ESR capacitors on the motherboard and/or
    in the power supply. Once a capacitor with a high ESR "warms up" it can
    function normally. If I were to make a choice between the two I would
    suspect the motherboard since a power supply with high ESR caps usually
    doesn't even power on.
     
    Meat Plow, Dec 28, 2007
    #2
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  3. jinny

    Pennywise Guest

    Cold boot runs all the BIOS test, a reset bypasses some, one being a
    memory test.

    Run memtest86, http://www.memtest86.com/

    Stick a PC speaker to the mother board (they seems to leave these
    out anymore) and google: bios beep codes - if you have more than one
    beep.
     
    Pennywise, Dec 28, 2007
    #3
  4. jinny

    jinny Guest

    Anyway of checking this? i.e, would the capacitors be bulging?
    Thanks.
     
    jinny, Dec 28, 2007
    #4
  5. jinny

    jinny Guest

    I can press reset 100 times but the PC will not boot until at least 10
    minutes waiting.
    No beeps at all until I hit the reset button 10 minutes later then all
    beeps as normal.
    Thanks.
     
    jinny, Dec 28, 2007
    #5
  6. jinny

    Shel-hed Guest

    X-post removed

    I just went through this with my PC. It was a failed DVD drive causing the
    black screen of death.
    First make sure that there are no disks in the optical drives. If there are
    are, remove it, and try as normal. If no luck, remove the power and data cables
    from the drives. It may be a good idea to go into the bios after doing this and
    set the "reset escd data" option, and set the primary slave, secondary master
    and secondary slave to "none". Oh ya... do you remove the power from the tower
    every night? If so, check your battery.

    Bad motherboard capacitors are usually bulged. If your mobo and cpu are the
    same vintage, the mobo probably predates the worst of the capacitor plague.
     
    Shel-hed, Dec 28, 2007
    #6
  7. jinny

    Pennywise Guest


    Then I'd try Meat Plow's observation, and check for bulging,
    exploded or leaking caps.
    google images:
    Bulging caps :http://tinyurl.com/2a4bs6
    Bad Caps: http://tinyurl.com/2attcb
     
    Pennywise, Dec 28, 2007
    #7
  8. jinny

    jinny Guest

    That is what I thought initially as the CD LED's were flickering,
    almost like the PC was trying to boot from it so I removed the drive
    and cables but no difference.
    Ok, thanks.
     
    jinny, Dec 28, 2007
    #8
  9. jinny

    jinny Guest

    Thanks for your help.
    If it did turn out to be bad caps ( I haven't checked yet) how easy
    would it be to replace them myself? or would it make more sense to bin
    the MB and get a new one?
     
    jinny, Dec 28, 2007
    #9
  10. jinny

    Meat Plow Guest

    Only way to check is with an ESR meter. Or if you know where the power
    is being distributed on the motherboard, you can heat things up with a
    hair dryer. Usually you can spot these caps because they are located
    together and there are once again "usually" a dozen or so of them.
    I don't know what your electronics acumen is but you used the term
    "bulging" to describe them and that tell me you know something about it.
    I've recapped one Abit board in the past. They ran into a problem with
    their cap vendor supplying faulty caps.
    By the way ESR means Equivalent Series Resistance. All electrolytic caps
    have some ESR. Once the cap ages the insides can dry out and raise the
    ESR past the value of the cap. Heating seems to increase the efficiency
    making the high ESR less of a problem and allowing the circuit to operate
    until the cap cools.
     
    Meat Plow, Dec 28, 2007
    #10
  11. jinny

    Meat Plow Guest

    Not that hard to replace but I think the time has come for you to upgrade :)
     
    Meat Plow, Dec 28, 2007
    #11
  12. jinny

    nobody > Guest

    Unless you have soldering skills on printed circuit boards, your best
    bet is a new motherboard.

    Unfortunately... so much has changed that you'll have to get most
    everything new to be compatible with the new mobo, memory, CPU, video
    card, posssibly new SATA harddrives(s) and optical drives.

    You'd be better off just going for a whole new computer or a recent
    refurbished unit. Just don't go with VISTA (shudder..)for an operating
    system.
     
    nobody >, Dec 28, 2007
    #12
  13. jinny

    w_tom Guest

    Bulging caps on a motherboard are easily replaced if you know how to
    use a solder and the iron. But many of your suggestions are classic
    shotgunning. Try this or try that. Most all suggestions are valid
    for you problem. So do you wildly go try them all? Or do you work
    smarter?

    The one 'system' that can make anything else appear defective is the
    power supply 'system'. Power supply is only one component of that
    system. Until that system (currently unknown) is 'definitively good'
    or 'definitively bad', then no other testing will provide useful
    results. Never replace anything on speculation. That can even
    exponentially complicate your problem. Others who complain about the
    wattage of your supply are even speculating. A 300 watt supply
    (especially from brand name computer manufacturers) could be a supply
    they know as 430 watts. 300 watts really tell us little. But the
    same procedure to move the 'system' from 'unknown' to 'definitively
    good' will also confirm power supply size. That two minute procedure
    is "When your computer dies without warning....." starting 6 Feb 2007
    in the newsgroup alt.windows-xp at:
    http://tinyurl.com/yvf9vh

    Numbers from that two minute procedure means those with better
    knowledge can post useful replies. Your replies will only be as
    useful as information posted. That means numbers. Shotgunning
    (replacing parts on speculation) does not provide numbers and may even
    only cure a symptom rather than the problem.

    Once the power supply 'system' is confirmed, then other useful
    suggestions (ie using heat) can be implemented. You objective is to
    get each component or system moved from unknown to 'definitively
    something'. Only then are you ready to replace the part is really is
    defective. Swapping parts first may even exponentially complicate the
    problem. Do not shotgun - a procedure common among those who do not
    first learn how hardware works. Did we mention many of the bulging
    caps can be located where you cannot view them? Using that two minute
    procedure may even identify 'starting to bulge caps' that are causing
    strange events.
     
    w_tom, Dec 29, 2007
    #13
  14. jinny

    John Holmes Guest

    w_tom "contributed" in alt.os.windows-xp:

    <snip>

    STFU, tom.
     
    John Holmes, Dec 29, 2007
    #14
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