Mouse stops working.

Sometimes the pointer disappears and the only way to get it back is
to reinsert it into the USB socket.
I think the cable near the mouse may have a break in it
intermittant which might cause the problem, does that sound
reasonable?

Using another mouse now as it happens often.

Guess I will try and open it up to have a look.
Is it just two wires?

 

Why does it matter? For the value of your time that it takes you to figure
it out you could go to WalMart and buy a better one. Nobody in the free
world should be using a wired mouse or wired keyboard anymore. Get with the
'90s!

 

Maybe so I just don't like paying more then I need or waste.
Like to have a go at fixing it.

Also I imagine it is very very easy to lose a wireless mouse!!

+ how loneg do batteries last?

 

I was being a smart ass earlier. I'm serious, get a wireless mouse, but the
part about the freeworld and keeping up was just me taking a stab at humor.

You should be able to test the integrity of the wire by putting the mouse on
the pad and moving it around while manipulating the wire. I'm not sure how
many wires, but my instinct is three, one for each axis and one for ground.

With the mouse ball removed -- you seriously need an upgrade if you still
have a mouse ball. Seriously. -- you should be able to find some small
screws that hold the case together. If the screws are not readily visible,
they might be hidden under some stickers. You ought to be able to guess
where they would be and confirm the existance of holes by rubbing your
fingernail over the sticker(s) to see if you can make any indents.

With the case opened up, the wire will be easy to find. You will need your
trusty soldering iron to solder new connections. The downside is that the
cord will be shorter by whatever amount you cut off, my guess is about 3
inches.

If you mouse has a ball, it's time to get a new one. I have not used a mouse
that's ball-driven in years.

You know, the issue can be the rollers that track each axis. If the mouse
does not track well either horizontally or vertically, then it could be the
roller that the ball rolls or the wire that goes to the pick-up. If the
mouse does not work in either axis, then it could be the ground by itself,
or the whole thing is hosed up. I assume you know how to clean the rollers,
and when to tell that they need cleaning.

Finally, if the mouse went away after a recent Automatic Update of Windows,
then the driver may not work anymore -- a scenario I doubt but worth
consideration. If the mouse ball-driven, this possibility moves up a few
spots on the list.

My wireless mouse takes two AA batteries, and I replace them 2 or 3 times a
year I guess. Not an issue in the grand scheme of things. I also have a
wireless keyboard -- a Logitech deNovo, or something like that -- that has
it's own charging base. I seldom use it, so whatever the battery technology
is, it works well, and is rechargeable in the stand that comes with it. My
kids got it for me several years ago -- at least four, and maybe six, so I
don't remember the cost. It has a touchpad mouse that works really well, and
I used for a very long time before going to a regular mouse again. The mouse
I have is also a Logitech, and the mouse and keyboard (bought at different
times) can share the same receiver, which is convenient. I have an option
now to use the touchpad or the actual mouse, and I tend to switch between
the two without thinking about it. I tend to favor the mouse though because
the scroll wheel and buttons are easier to use. The touchpad does not have a
scroll wheel, so I have to drive the cursor to the scroll bar, and this is a
pain most of the time. The mouse also is better for selecting lots of files
to drag around, the touchpad needs me to use both hands -- one to drive the
mouse and one to hold the Left Click button.

 

Update, wel I took it apart and it you can see the outer covering
of the wires near the mouse is broken exposing the inner wires,
I managed to shirt that area inside the mouse.
I didn't think I would ever get the mouse back togeather such that
it worked (clicked) properly, it's a horrible design.
Anyway when I tried it again I USB device nor recognised.
So I think I better start looking for a new one!!
It could be all the messing about broke the inner wires which might be
fixable
but I think I will give up because I really think I would be risking
damaging
my computer via the usb port.


So I will have to find the most suitable one on the net and then go to
the store to find it is out of stock :O)

 

It think there were 4 or maybe 5, I note a USB connector has 4 pins
5V+ D+ D- GRND

It was a pretty horrible design, there is just one screw then a base and
two other bits which form the top, split in a 2:1 ratio, I was tryig for
ages to get it
back togeather without succes, Then I had a real good look at it and
firgured
out you basically assemble it and then basically force the bit that does fit
in and it
kind of all snaps togeather. I was trying to put that bit in first but you
can't do it
that way. You don't really need the screw after that which was just as well
as I
had lost it - lol. However I found one I lost earlier from something
else which fit.

No it is optical, I have some old ball mice but I don't think the
buttons work anymore.

Yep I used to do that, but opticals now are jsut as cheap and you don't
usually have to clean them, however I had gathered a got bit of debris
inside.

The problem did appear after recent updates but I think I had it occasional
before
so I can't be sure, however my other USB mouse works, that was one which
turned
out to be a lap top mouse and basically the cable was really short.

Also I am used to a 5 button mouse now the laptop one was only 3.

Incidenly it's amaxing how you get used to a mouse, I though the laptop one
as better initially, very light and aslo a light tough click. However I was
so used
to the damaged one, the lapptop one feels all wrong.

Hardly battery are pretty cheap these days, well, they are if you get them
from the pound shop - lol. They last a real long time in remote controls
but I think the lazer must run them down somewhat.

I am using an old keyboard too because the one which came with the PC
packed up so I think will have a look at (probably wireless) keyboard and
mouse packages.

I might have another go at fixing the mouse, but i think I will test it
on my old PC, just in case I cause a short circuit or something like that!

 

I had a wireless mouse years ago. Hated the thing. Yes, I did lose it. A
lot. Worse yet, my husband was constantly sticking something in front of
the controller thingie with the antennae on it.

I can't remember how long the batteries lasted. Maybe less than a year?

 

I have a Dell Optical mouse and I love it!

 

I thought you were a Colonist, like me, and had a Walmart down the street,
but you use an S where a Z belongs, so you must be from the motherland,
where Walmart has not penetrated as yet -- just wait, they are coming to get
you too.

Anyway, you can get a decent wireless keyboard and mouse bundle for about
$50 (USD). You can get the El Cheapo (that's spanish for piece of crap) for
less, but why bother?

 

Some cheap products are really good and some expensive ones are rubbish.

I am having a look around but all the bricks and motar stores seem to have
poor selection
and are offering the same poor choices, they pretty much have a cartel so
basically you have
to buy whatthey want to sell not what you want to buy, unless you go mail
order, wheer of course
you can't inspect the product.

Anyway I am going to test the wires on my old broken, mouse, I have a
multimeter
so I should be able to tests for breaks, if here are no breaks them the
chip must be dead.


The LED comes on so it does get power.

 

Yea I bet wehen you desperately need to find it it will be down the
back of the sofa or in the microwave so somewhere silly.
When I used to lose the TV remote control I was thinking it would be a good
ideea
to have a long 'tail' on it.

Not really a problem then.

 

Wel I tested all the connections with my multimeter and there
seems to be no break, could be intermittant though.
It's a bit weird really, maybe a loose connection on the board?

 

Colin Trunt Inscribed thus:

Could be bad soldered joints !

 

Maybe, I took it apart and took the small circuit board out
and cleaned it up a bit but it made no difference.


This is it

http://www.trust.com/products/productpictures.aspx?artnr=15373

It does not require special drivers.


When I plug it in it says it has malfunctioned and windows does not
recognise it. So looks lilke it's a gonna.

The joints look OK, maybe it's the chip but I would not expect that
to be intermittant? (at first).

I'm finding it hard to find one similar, wireless or no for a similar price,
ie
not expensive.
Some seem to be rather over priced compared to others.

 

Well I did find it earlier and I think it's the same except for colours
swapped
around.
http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/Mice/Trust-Optical-Mouse/invt/0262971


Can't go too far wrong at that price! Not wireless though.

 

Colin Trunt Inscribed thus:

Most of their mice use the same circuit board.

 

There are just two chips, the controler chip (I assume)
and one over the lazer bit which I presume deals with the image
detection.


Anyway I think I may get a wireless 5 button mouse on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-4G-USB-5-Bu...rComponents_KeyboardsMice?hash=item3a59ea69a2



or

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRUST-WIRELES...rComponents_KeyboardsMice?hash=item3cabb28393

(amd brand as my old wired one

 

You obviously did not test them throughtly enough Colin
Just talking to myself cos I tested them agian after I inspected the wires
again and became convinced one of them was broken.
On that test that wire did seem to be an open circuit (broken wire).
So I broke the wire fully, stripped the insulation, twisted wires togeather,
re-tested
and success a buzz from my meter indicitating a circuit!!
I pulled into USB port, no error message, and cursor moved!!

I have put the mouse ack togeather how and it works, although it now
seems all 'wrong' compared to the other much lighter and faster mouse - lol.
I think it wll take a while for my brain to re-adjust to the dynamics of it
again.


I think I may have got a false positive before because you can lose track of
which
connection you are testing if the connector flips over.

What made me try again was because the symptoms of the fault matched
a breaking/broken wire, it did seem inconcievable it could have been a chip
as that would have been instant and permanent.
Also the curcuit board looked rock solid, further more even a short circut
burning something out seemed unlikely it's only 5V I believe, plus no
indication of a burning on the cuircuit board!!


I may open it up agan to adjust the wires because the one I broke is shorter
then the other 4, but I will probably wait untill I have a probelm with it.

Only problen now is it seems so slow and sluggish compared to the previous
one (which seemed to sensitive at first!!).


I guess I will guess used to it!!

Saved myself a few quid!!

 

Just a note to say I have fixed it (see other post)

 

Just a note to say I have fixed it (see other post)