How to make 360 degree panorama?

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by M-M, Mar 4, 2008.

  1. M-M

    M-M Guest

    Any tips or tricks for making a 360 panorama? Which program should I
    use? Can Photoshop Elements do it?

    M-M, Mar 4, 2008
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  2. M-M

    Pete D Guest

    Pete D, Mar 4, 2008
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  3. M-M

    Jay Guest

    It's pretty obvious.
    Have you tried:
    File>New>Photomerge Panorama.

    Jay, Mar 4, 2008
  4. M-M

    ray Guest

    FWIW - the thing that seems to work with the least hassle for me is the
    pandora plugin for GIMP. Main restriction is that you have to give it the
    photos from left to right and it won't do a two dimensional array - i.e.
    just a linear sequence of photos.
    ray, Mar 4, 2008
  5. M-M

    Nervous Nick Guest

    Just curious, as I've only used stitching programs a couple of times:
    Could you rotate stitched panoramas 90º and stitch *them* together to
    create a 2-d montage?
    Nervous Nick, Mar 4, 2008
  6. M-M

    Click Guest

    For 360 deg panorama, Autopano pro is extremely good, allowing (re)
    selection of central point after stitching (but before rendering).

    Some examples of 360 deg stitches (and some near 360 but not full
    circle) are here:
    Click, Mar 4, 2008
  7. M-M

    M-M Guest

    I should have mentioned: I need 360 plus 180 up and down.

    I think you can do that with 2 fisheye images but it may take up to 60
    regular wide angle shots?
    M-M, Mar 5, 2008
  8. M-M

    ray Guest

    theoretically - I've not tried that, so can't say definitively.
    ray, Mar 5, 2008
  9. The most common strategy is to use a tripod with a parallax correction jig
    (I use a Nodal Ninja 3) and a wide angle lens (a fisheye probably -- I have
    a Peleng 8mm for my Nikon d50).

    In portrait mode with the Peleng with my camera you can take 4 shots for a
    360/180 panorama. It might be possible to do it in two shots with a full
    frame slr. The shots should be taken in full manual mode - no autofocus, no
    auto exposure, no auto white balance to avoid exposure differences between
    shots. This is almost a given with the Peleng but might be an issue with
    other lenses.

    The shots can then be stitched with software (Hugin is open source that
    will do the job). Software will also be needed to view the result(Quicktime
    if you created a QTVR, a java applet -- there are a number available, flash
    or even Javascript -- I think there are some samples out there) is one done for a
    Quicktime viewer has a java viewer is a site with lots of info, samples and an
    active forum.
    Brian Sullivan, Mar 5, 2008
  10. There are many programs that can do a good pano. Each has its own strengths
    and weaknesses. I have used Photoshop Elements to make a "photomerge" and
    found it works fairly well, but it is poor at adjusting colors and images to
    match up edges and colors from image to image. I have also used Autostitch
    (for many years my primary pano program). One advantage to this program is
    it is free and upgrades (yearly) are also free. It is good but any large
    pano (in number of images) can really eat your memory and it may be an hour
    or two into the process that it crashes with the message "out of memory".
    Very frustrating. Recently I tried Autopano Pro and like it a lot. It has
    some limits but at least it checks BEFORE you begin the stitch to make sure
    you haven't overwhelmed the memory or limits of total size (30000 pixels in
    either direction), but if you do go over that limit you can retry with a
    proportional resize to keep the dimensions within limit. But it is EXPENSIVE
    (the license is currently about $150 due to the exchange rate...the price is
    charged in euros). As I said before, there are many other programs out there
    and I haven't tried all of them. Each person will have different needs and
    ways of working that may suit one program over another so until you find one
    that works for you, keep trying.

    I have taken multi row panos and had good luck. The current largest was 91
    individual images. I tend to try to overlap adjacent images by about 50%
    both horiz and vert. I also find that I get less wavy straight lines if I
    stick to 30-50mm of focal length (FL). Wider FL causes straight lines along
    the edges to wave. Longer FL will use more images for the same image (tho I
    have done some tele panos of a large subject that I can't get into the prime
    range because of obstacles like a lake. It is also a good idea to plan your
    panos with the subjects as close to the same distance as possible. If you
    have a close object and most of the image much further away, the close
    object will tend to mis-align in adjacent images. Also it is a good idea to
    choose a good setting for median exposure of the subject and manually lock
    to those settings. Any change to focus, aperture, shutter, etc tends to make
    for spotty images as you move around getting some images of brightly lit and
    some of shade. Outdoors I highly recommend NOT going more than 45deg of
    vertical above the horizon and taking the pano at noon so you don't have the
    sun in the image itself to make trouble. The ideal is actually a overcast
    day, IMHO. This makes for a nice general soft light with no blown highlights
    and few extra deep shadows.

    Randy Berbaum, Mar 7, 2008
  11. Randy Berbaum wrote:

    Although I agree the price is a little on the high side, I also tried and
    liked the program enough to buy it. The features now make it much easier
    for me to make panos, and the "ghost removal" seems to work well. I feel
    it has been money well spent.

    David J Taylor, Mar 7, 2008
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