How to dry mount ink jet prints

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by Birk Binnard, Oct 25, 2003.

  1. Birk Binnard

    Birk Binnard Guest

    I've framed quite a few of my photos and have noticed some of them have
    developed waves. Most are 8x10 (some are larger) printed on my Epson 1280.
    The frames are metal with glass fronts and cardboard backs.

    I've read that you can't dry-mount inkjet printouts because they contain too
    much moisture. Plus a drymount machine is expensive. Will mounting them on
    foam board with spray-on adhesive work better? That would sure be a lot
    cheaper to do.
     
    Birk Binnard, Oct 25, 2003
    #1
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  2. First ink jet prints only contain excess moisture for a short time.
    They dry.

    I don't suggest using a standard heat type dry mount press until you
    test prints made with your machine and ink. Some inks don't react well with
    heat.

    If you are going to use a spray glue, get the stuff made for photos.
    Better yet, get the peel and stick backing. That way you know the glue is
    on a nice even coat.

    Be ready to practice a few times. You don't get a second chance, so you
    may loose a print or two form time to time.
     
    Joseph Meehan, Oct 25, 2003
    #2
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  3. Birk Binnard

    Trev Guest

    Personaly I'm not keen on spray Glue. If you can find some "Cow" gum I
    would go for it.
     
    Trev, Oct 25, 2003
    #3
  4. Birk Binnard

    Savidge4 Guest

    I've framed quite a few of my photos and have noticed some of them have
    I went with the spray glue route and have had mixed results at best. I too get
    the waves and bumps over time. For framed images I have gone to sandwiching
    the images between glass, and ensuring a nice tight fit. That has resolved
    many of these problems.

    For larger images, i have gotten away from foam board all together and use
    contact sement on the back of the image, and use plexiglass for the sturdy
    substrate. it is a bit more expensive, but with my own personal use have found
    this to work *All* of the time.

    hope that helps!
     
    Savidge4, Oct 25, 2003
    #4
  5. I see this quite a bit in stranger's homes. That's how I can tell which
    one's, I assume, they printed themselves.
    Before printing spray the back of the paper with a light coating of
    non-glossy fixative.
    Mark_
     
    mark_digitalĀ©, Oct 25, 2003
    #5
  6. Birk Binnard

    Tom Thackrey Guest

    I've drymounted many color inkjet prints (mostly from an Epson 2200). I use
    the same procedure that I use for regular chemical color prints (color
    mount, 175 degrees).

    Spray glue works, too.

    I have better results drymounting, my wife says spray glue is easier, but
    she's a graphic artist and has been using it for 25 years.
     
    Tom Thackrey, Oct 25, 2003
    #6
  7. Birk Binnard

    Tony Spadaro Guest

    Tony Spadaro, Oct 25, 2003
    #7
  8. Birk Binnard

    ERich10983 Guest

    I dry mounted some 11x14 prints from my Canon S9000 a couple of months ago. I
    used a couple of brands of dry mount tissue that I've had for over 25 years
    that was intended for conventional color prints, therefore low temperature
    rated. The results on foam core board were very good. No ripples, no bubbles
    and no fuss.
    I used a standard Technal Model 500 dry mount press that I've had for years.

    If you do a Google search for dry mount tissue, you will find several companies
    that sell it. Just pick one of the low temperature rated materials.

    Earle Rich
    Mont Vernon, NH
     
    ERich10983, Oct 25, 2003
    #8
  9. Birk Binnard

    Birk Binnard Guest

    Thanks for all the replies. Since we already have some foam board I'm going
    to try the double-sided sticky paper and see how that works. I'll report
    back with results.
     
    Birk Binnard, Oct 25, 2003
    #9
  10. Birk Binnard

    Robertwgross Guest

    I do this all the time. When the inkjet print comes out of the printer, it
    seems a bit damp. So I place it about one foot above a 100-watt incandescent
    bulb to dry for about one hour. Then I use spray adhesive on foam board, and
    let that dry for just a couple of minutes until it begins to get tacky. If the
    adhesive is not spread finely enough, that makes a problem. After the print is
    applied to the adhesive, I put it a simple press made out of flat sheets of
    wood (with paper surface). About 20 pounds for an hour, and then it's ready.

    ---Bob Gross---
     
    Robertwgross, Oct 25, 2003
    #10
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