designing a 17 x 15 home studio ?

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by oleuncleted, Feb 18, 2007.

  1. oleuncleted

    oleuncleted Guest

    if you guys had a 17 x 15 ft space (10 foot ceiling) to use for a home
    studio how would you set it up to be of maxium use to you and your
    clients ?.

    i don't have the space yet as we are having an addition built onto our
    house and i was able to convince my better half to let me have my
    own space for my photography .
    the dimensions are the most i could have so i would love to hear any
    suggestions to desiging it.

    im looking at a backdrop system (10 ft wide )and would also like to
    includ another shooting (abr ringflash possibly?) station
    and also have to includ work stations for editing .
    a work station 3 ft x 6 .
    2 chairs for clients friends ,parents to watch and wait for them .

    im already into the alien bees strobes system and would be mostly
    shooting with a canon 5d wireless with lcd tv mounted on wall
    displaying the picture just taking .

    ive tried using goggle sketch up but had no luck , the program works
    great i take it i just couldn't use it ?

    thank you
    ole uncle ted
     
    oleuncleted, Feb 18, 2007
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. oleuncleted

    oleuncleted Guest

    anyone ?
     
    oleuncleted, Feb 19, 2007
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. [/QUOTE]

    I would never let people watch while I was creating images unless it
    was some little kid that was acting up (fortunately, I rarely
    photographed children). I don't know what you're going to do with a
    ringlight unless you're a dentist taking pictures of people's teeth.
     
    Randall Ainsworth, Feb 19, 2007
    #3
  4. oleuncleted

    oleuncleted Guest

    On Feb 19, 9:20?am, Randall Ainsworth <>
    wrote:

    i see your point but the route i want to go here is to make the client
    feel comfortable and with there friends parent etc there it may break
    the ice for them as well as me .
    on the other hand im a very easy guy to be around and wouldn't have a
    problem with ma or pa waiting in the other room .

    the ringflash (ABR800) is just an idea i was thinking of to add
    another dimension to the whole experience , another look .

    thank you
    ole uncle ted
     
    oleuncleted, Feb 19, 2007
    #4
  5. First big question -- what to paint the walls? By which I mean white,
    or black, any other choice being patently absurd. The first small
    studio I helped build, we chose white walls, and that was a very serious
    mistake, it turned out. At least for us. If what you *always* want to
    do is very flat lighting, then white walls and a few bare-bulb lights
    work great. But any time you want significant directionality in the
    light, suddenly the white walls (and ceiling) are a curse; they bounce
    it around everywhere. (The classic solution to this is drapes over the
    walls, but people designing a 15x17 studio generally don't have either
    space or funds for floor-to-ceiling drapes for three walls in my
    experience; certainly *I* never did.)

    In a similar vein, in a room that small, consider some threaded pipe
    fastened to the ceiling for light mounting points; this can keep the
    floor relatively free of stands and cords (cords routed along pipes
    overhead, too; speaking of which, if you go that route, consider putting
    the outlets up there too), which makes it a much safer working space.
    This is *particularly* important if you're going to have clients around
    when you're shooting; you won't be paying attention to them, and you can
    expect them to move around and trip on things given the slightest
    opportunity. (I'm kinda with Randall in thinking I wouldn't want them
    there at all, but your studio, do as works for you!)

    I'd be *very* careful to make sure I had the full 17 feet distance
    available to shoot; that's kinda minimal already, so you can't afford to
    lose any of it. Remember that for many purposes you need to put the
    subjects 6 feet or more away from the vertical paper backdrop (to throw
    shadows out of frame, and allow room for lighting the backdrop
    separately from the people).

    What kind of "backdrop system" are you looking at? I think you'll need
    to be able to deploy paper backdrop rolls in several colors (at least
    black and white), to get sweep you need for full-length portraits. You
    may very well want to put painted portrait backdrops up as well, if you
    like that kind of thing.

    Having some dedicated shooting space right at home is really cool; hope
    it works out very well for you!
     
    David Dyer-Bennet, Feb 20, 2007
    #5
  6. oleuncleted

    oleuncleted Guest

    On Feb 19, 10:30�pm, David Dyer-Bennet > >

    hi david, thank you for your response and well wishes towards my
    studio .

    you asked some great questions ,

    i actually was thinking flat white paint , i would be doing alot of
    senior portraits (hopefully ) engagement shots ,full and half length
    shots and some group shots .
    what color paint would you suggest ?

    the outlets in the ceilings i have thought of and actually thought of
    a track system
    but $ wise
    some threaded pipe
    definetly would do the trick .

    i was looking at a backdrop system from backdrop outlet with 3
    different color seemless paper backdrops ,i also already have a
    backdrop air cushioned system for a while along with some 10 x 20
    muslin backdrops that i use for on the spot stuff .

    my shooting area will definetly be 17 x 15 and i will be shooting from
    17 ft away need be .

    another area i was undecided on was flooring , concrete is what it
    will be when done , leave it at that , ive heard of pergo flooring is
    good also tight weaved industrial carpeting ?.

    thank you
    ole uncle ted
     
    oleuncleted, Feb 20, 2007
    #6
  7. Flat white or off-white for the walls would be good with dark gray for
    the ceiling. I never liked doing groups in the studio...no money in it.
    You're better off outside or in their home...anywhere but the sterile
    studio.
    MasterRails are nice, but I always konked my head on them when I was in
    a studio that had them.
    The air-cushioned stands are great. Mine were from Photogenic.
    Doesn't really matter...I had commercial grade carpeting.
     
    Randall Ainsworth, Feb 20, 2007
    #7
  8. Well, as I say, it depends, largely on what kind of lighting you like.

    Any actual *color* is IMHO a serious mistake, since it'll color the light.

    I think, for portraits, especially of young people, you are going to
    sometimes want to use much more directional lighting than is easy with
    white walls. However, you could probably use some 4x8 foot sheets of
    *black* foamcore to give you the directionality even in a white room, on
    further thought; that's fairly cheap. (I don't think 4x8 foamcore as
    available on the consumer market back when I first helped a friend build
    a white studio; or maybe we just didn't find it when we saw the problem.)

    The white room will be more pleasant for ordinary uses, when you're not
    shooting in it.
    A "real" studio lighting track system would almost certainly be easier
    to work with. And *absolutely* certainly be a lot more expensive :).
    Okay, sounds sensible.
    Good; I find it necessary fairly often.
    Concrete, sealed with appropriate clear or neutral colored stuff, is the
    most versatile choice. It's easier to keep clean than carpet, and
    provides a firmer base for standing things on it (though dense
    industrial carpet isn't bad). Pergo (that's one specific brand) and the
    other thin interlocking printed-plastic surface floorings can look very
    good, isn't too expensive, and is pretty durable. That's what I have in
    my office/bedroom at home, where I'm typing right now.

    Carpet is easy and cheap, easy to keep *looking* clean (instead of
    actually being clean), and easily hides a multitude of sins. I think, in
    a newly built space, you won't mostly have the sins to hide, so that
    part isn't much benefit, but it's still cheap and easy.
     
    David Dyer-Bennet, Feb 20, 2007
    #8
  9. That's why 12 foot or higher ceilings are best. I'd like to knock out my
    8 foot ceiling for that very reason.
     
    Little Green Eyed Dragon, Feb 20, 2007
    #9
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.