Color Correction Filters / Filtration in Photoshop

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by john chapman, Oct 11, 2003.

  1. john chapman

    john chapman Guest

    I shoot slides. While I do give slide shows, my main objective is
    scanning the slides, editing in Photoshop, and producing slide shows
    on CD. Slide film is very sensitive to the color temperture of light.
    I have been using tungsten balanced film when the lighting is
    appropriate (not using flash, such as in museums), but it would be
    easier to simply use daylight balanced film and adjust for color temp
    in Photoshop.

    While I could probably arrive at the answers through empirical
    testing, does anyone know what the exact color adjustments I would
    need to make to an image in Photoshop to equal say an 80B (daylight
    film to tungsten lighting) or 81C (warming) filter. Being able to do
    this should quickly get me near a point for fine adjustments. Can you
    even point me to the right place. Is there a plug-in where one can
    designate the exact standard filter ID?

    Thanks in advance for any assistance.
     
    john chapman, Oct 11, 2003
    #1
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  2. I don't know what to say, other than at least you use film. :)

    I would opt for color correction filters or continue buying
    the tungsten film. If the tungsten does the job why fix it?
    CC filters may mean knowing what temp the lights are.....
    there are always lights that fool you unless you buy a color meter
    $800.....plus there are still lighting situations that fool you.
    Still you probably can get close enough to get scannable and correctable
    imagery.

    Film by its very nature can acquire so much color in the wrong direction it
    first and foremost becomes difficult to scan & next to impossible to completely
    correct.
     
    Gregory W. Blank, Oct 11, 2003
    #2
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  3. john chapman

    jjs Guest

    I'm not going to give you the step-by-step, but I'll give you two
    pointers: first, color correction is done in the Channels area, and
    second, wait for Version 8 which has a pretty good (for most people) color
    matching feature which you can apply against a properly balance photo
    against your difficuly match. Then you save that and apply 'en masse.

    Try the photoshop group for more generous replies.
     
    jjs, Oct 11, 2003
    #3
  4. John:

    Version 8 is out and is now called CS I beleive
     
    Gregory W. Blank, Oct 11, 2003
    #4
  5. john chapman

    Tony Spadaro Guest

    I would suggest the advanced books listed here
    http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/mani/books/mbookps.html
    for learning how to do colour correction in Photoshop. Getting the exact
    colour temp you would have gotten with a filter is probably not 100%
    possible but you can come close, and actually get closer to a "daylight"
    look than when using Type B film with anything other than actual
    photofloods. I find a small amount of filtration (like an 80) helps make it
    easier to adjust the final picture, but it isn't really necessary.
    If you are shooting from a pod, go with full filtration - since your
    exposures are going to be long anyway, why do both long exposuares and heavy
    Photoshop correction?

    --
    http://www.chapelhillnoir.com
    home of The Camera-ist's Manifesto
    The Improved Links Pages are at
    http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/links/mlinks00.html
    A sample chapter from my novel "Haight-Ashbury" is at
    http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/writ/hait/hatitl.html
     
    Tony Spadaro, Oct 11, 2003
    #5
  6. john chapman

    Jimmy Guest

    Jimmy, Oct 11, 2003
    #6
  7. john chapman

    Witheld Guest

    Witheld, Oct 11, 2003
    #7
  8. john chapman

    Jimmy Guest

    Not hardly, but I am a user of the product. Don't jump to conclusions just because someone
    recommends a product. I suppose if I recommended a product from www.adobe.com you will still use
    the 'spammer' trump card. Get a grip!
     
    Jimmy, Oct 11, 2003
    #8

  9. I would not recommend using daylight film and then attempting to
    'correct' it. The reason is that you're almost over-exposing the
    red-sensitive layer and underexposing the blue sensitive layer, and no
    amount of correctuion AFTER the fact can remedy that. Use the correct
    film to start with.
     
    Michael Scarpitti, Oct 11, 2003
    #9
  10. john chapman

    john chapman Guest

    Kodak ektachrome 320 is rather grainy. Because of poor light I always
    push one stop to 640, making it even grainier. The new fujichrome 400
    films are far far less grainy, even 1600, let alone 800. This is the
    main reason I have posed the question. Additionally, I can carry less
    film when traveling.
     
    john chapman, Oct 12, 2003
    #10
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