Want to profile monitor for Fuji Frontier ICC profile?

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by Lynn, Sep 7, 2005.

  1. Lynn

    Lynn Guest

    Hi, really hoping someone can help me with this. I have the icc profile
    of printer of the lab I use for prints (Fuji Frontier) and use this to
    softproof in photoshop. What I really, really want, though is something
    that can make what I see on my monitor match this profile.
    I have tried profiling the monitor many ways, but think I must need
    some software/hardware to somehow replicate what the printer will
    actually print.
    Is such a product available that I can somehow feed in the icc profile
    of the printer and thus get what I see on the monitor on the prints I
    get from the printer? Any and all help will be appreciated! Thanks, Lynn
    Lynn, Sep 7, 2005
    #1
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  2. Lynn <> wrote:
    > Hi, really hoping someone can help me with this. I have the icc profile
    > of printer of the lab I use for prints (Fuji Frontier) and use this to
    > softproof in photoshop. What I really, really want, though is something
    > that can make what I see on my monitor match this profile.
    > I have tried profiling the monitor many ways, but think I must need
    > some software/hardware to somehow replicate what the printer will
    > actually print.
    > Is such a product available that I can somehow feed in the icc profile
    > of the printer and thus get what I see on the monitor on the prints I
    > get from the printer? Any and all help will be appreciated! Thanks, Lynn
    >


    I think you may be looking at it backward. I think what you really want
    [and probably is the only way possible] is to have what you see on your
    screen be exactly what prints on the photo paper. Correct?

    Here is what I am doing. BTW, I use Costco for much of my printing
    lately as they have all their printer profiles online and they use Fuji
    Crystal Archive paper.

    1. Calibrate your monitor. I use the Colorvision Spyder 2, but you
    could use whatever you have, even Adobe Gamma [which is sort of a swag].
    2. Choose a working color space. I shoot all my images in AdobeRGB and
    I have Photoshop configured to use AdobeRGB as my working space.
    3. Read image into Photoshop and do all your edits and tweaks [using
    Adobe RGB].
    4. Crop to print size @ 300 dpi (maybe lower resolution for large
    prints).
    5. Convert (not assign) to the printer color profile (the ICC file
    should be in the \windows\system32\spool\drivers\color folder).
    6. Save the file as JPEG @ quality level 10 or above.
    7. Upload resulting file to printer and print at cropped dimensions

    The output on the final print should very closely [perhaps
    indistinquishably] match your screen.

    --
    Thomas T. Veldhouse
    Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
    Spammers please contact me at .
    Thomas T. Veldhouse, Sep 7, 2005
    #2
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  3. Lynn

    Lynn Guest

    Hi Thomas, Thanks for that reply. I hadn't ever converted to printer
    profile before, just looked at the softproof ! The only thing is, when
    I do convert, my image is suddenly far more ruddy than it was while in
    adobeRGB. I shoot in RAW and tweak white balance etc. in that before
    working in CS (not sure if that will make any difference). Can I still
    tweak after assigning the profile? Thanks again for your help. Lynn
    Lynn, Sep 7, 2005
    #3
  4. Lynn <> wrote:
    > Hi Thomas, Thanks for that reply. I hadn't ever converted to printer
    > profile before, just looked at the softproof ! The only thing is, when
    > I do convert, my image is suddenly far more ruddy than it was while in
    > adobeRGB. I shoot in RAW and tweak white balance etc. in that before
    > working in CS (not sure if that will make any difference). Can I still
    > tweak after assigning the profile? Thanks again for your help. Lynn
    >


    If that is the case, I suspect that your printer has a very narrow color
    space (rather unlikely) or that your monitor is simply not well
    calibrated. You did "convert to color profile" and NOT "assign color
    profile", right?

    --
    Thomas T. Veldhouse
    Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
    Spammers please contact me at .
    Thomas T. Veldhouse, Sep 7, 2005
    #4
  5. Lynn

    Lynn Guest

    Thanks for your help, Thomas. You're right, I do want to have what I
    see on my
    screen be exactly what the prints look like when I get them from the
    lab.
    I hadn't ever converted the image to the printer profile before! Thing
    is, after I do that, I find the image gets more ruddy/saturated than it
    did in RGB. Can I still tweak after converting?
    Also, I've tried adobe gamma, quickgamma, manual gamma using a print
    etc. and none have really worked all that well. How does the Spyder
    work and what will it convert the monitor to? Will I have a more
    accurate view of what the camera actually took? Thanks for your help!
    I'm ridiculously new to colour management, I'm afraid. Lynn
    Lynn, Sep 7, 2005
    #5
  6. Lynn

    Lynn Guest

    Hi again, Thomas, I did convert to colour profile," and I doubt that
    the lab's printer has a very narrow colour space (it's a FujiFilm
    Frontier 370?) so this Spyder thing is probably the thing for me as
    it's got to be my monitor calibration that's wrong? Thanks for your
    help (and patience)!
    Lynn, Sep 7, 2005
    #6
  7. Lynn <> wrote:
    > Thanks for your help, Thomas. You're right, I do want to have what I
    > see on my
    > screen be exactly what the prints look like when I get them from the
    > lab.
    > I hadn't ever converted the image to the printer profile before! Thing
    > is, after I do that, I find the image gets more ruddy/saturated than it
    > did in RGB. Can I still tweak after converting?


    Did you "convert" or "assign" the profile. You need to convert. It
    really only makes sense to do your work in the original workspace. You
    may potentially print or export to many sources and you should just
    convert to the appropriate color profile as required.


    > Also, I've tried adobe gamma, quickgamma, manual gamma using a print
    > etc. and none have really worked all that well. How does the Spyder
    > work and what will it convert the monitor to? Will I have a more
    > accurate view of what the camera actually took? Thanks for your help!
    > I'm ridiculously new to colour management, I'm afraid. Lynn
    >


    Spyder is a piece of hardware with some excellent software to calibrate
    you monitor and create a color profile that is loaded into your video
    card. It is what I am using and I absolutely love it. I did print
    comparisons of the same images sent to several vendors and have
    determined I like the results of Costco the best. FYI, I tried the
    following:

    Costco
    MPIX
    Walmart
    Shutterfly

    The quality of the results are in the order listed. Costco won on every
    picture expect one where the green was exaggerated and some of the
    details lost (a closeup of a flower with a bee ... lot's of green in the
    background with low depth of field). MPIX did better in a few cases
    with more browns, but otherwise Costco nailed it (Costco is the only
    vendor to supply their color profile, the rest require sRGB). I will
    try Walgreen's next, only for the fact that they just went very recently
    to online prints for local pickup and they are really close to home.

    --
    Thomas T. Veldhouse
    Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
    Spammers please contact me at .
    Thomas T. Veldhouse, Sep 7, 2005
    #7
  8. Lynn <> wrote:
    > Hi again, Thomas, I did convert to colour profile," and I doubt that
    > the lab's printer has a very narrow colour space (it's a FujiFilm
    > Frontier 370?) so this Spyder thing is probably the thing for me as
    > it's got to be my monitor calibration that's wrong? Thanks for your
    > help (and patience)!
    >


    You bet. I recommend you purchase it at a quality online retailer such
    as B&H Photo or Adorama. I have used and implicity trust both of these
    retailers.

    --
    Thomas T. Veldhouse
    Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
    Spammers please contact me at .
    Thomas T. Veldhouse, Sep 7, 2005
    #8
  9. Lynn

    Lynn Guest

    Thanks again, Thomas. I've now ordered the Spyder and hopefully there
    will be fewer surprises now when I get prints back! Lynn
    Lynn, Sep 8, 2005
    #9
  10. Lynn <> wrote:
    > Thanks again, Thomas. I've now ordered the Spyder and hopefully there
    > will be fewer surprises now when I get prints back! Lynn
    >


    I recommend you calibrate your monitor at least once every week or two
    while you are actively using the monitor to evaluate photos. My monitor
    was already drifting after one week [still well within spec].

    --
    Thomas T. Veldhouse
    Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
    Spammers please contact me at .
    Thomas T. Veldhouse, Sep 8, 2005
    #10
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