Studio lights for newbie

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by JJ, Dec 20, 2003.

  1. JJ

    JJ Guest

    Getting back into photography with digital. What would be a good start for
    studio lights? Photoflood, strobe? Have done mostly outside, and fill
    lighting til now... but living on the foggy coastline of California leaves
    outside photography a chancy thing if you are depending on the sun filtering
    through the trees for that great hair highlight!

    Thanks for any info... JJ
     
    JJ, Dec 20, 2003
    #1
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  2. JJ

    Bob Hatch Guest

    "JJ" <Cookie > wrote in message
    news:vd0Fb.499149$...
    > Getting back into photography with digital. What would be a good start

    for
    > studio lights? Photoflood, strobe? Have done mostly outside, and fill
    > lighting til now... but living on the foggy coastline of California leaves
    > outside photography a chancy thing if you are depending on the sun

    filtering
    > through the trees for that great hair highlight!
    >
    > Thanks for any info... JJ
    >

    Part of the answer depends on what camera you're getting. At the very least
    you should make sure that your camera will do custom/manual white balance.
    With this feature you can use photo flood, regular flood or spot lights,
    halogen work lights, etc and get excellent looking portraits. For studio
    strobes, I prefer White Lightning and have 5 set up for my uses. A main,
    background, fill, hair and second background or auxiliary.

    What camera?

    --
    "Secular nations have one thing in common -- mass graves, and
    the reason is that they believe the government is the final arbiter
    of right and wrong and good and evil." --Rob Schenk
    http://www.bobhatch.com
     
    Bob Hatch, Dec 20, 2003
    #2
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  3. JJ

    Jim Waggener Guest

    "JJ" <Cookie > wrote in message
    news:vd0Fb.499149$...
    > Getting back into photography with digital. What would be a good start

    for
    > studio lights? Photoflood, strobe? Have done mostly outside, and fill
    > lighting til now... but living on the foggy coastline of California leaves
    > outside photography a chancy thing if you are depending on the sun

    filtering
    > through the trees for that great hair highlight!
    >
    > Thanks for any info... JJ
    >


    Photofloods are going to be much cheaper than strobes. But they do get hot.
    I have two Lowel Omni-Lights with barn doors and umbrella's and a Toto-Light
    that I use for digital, 35mm and 4x5 work. Cost was about $750 from B&H.
    Works great.

    Jim Waggener




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    Jim Waggener, Dec 20, 2003
    #3
  4. JJ

    Charlie Self Guest

    Jim Waggener responds:

    >Photofloods are going to be much cheaper than strobes. But they do get hot.
    >I have two Lowel Omni-Lights with barn doors and umbrella's and a Toto-Light
    >that I use for digital, 35mm and 4x5 work. Cost was about $750 from B&H.
    >Works great.


    He might also try Alien Bees. The small units are around $225. Add stands,
    umbrella and a medium softbox for 2, and you're in that same range, with flash.

    www.alienbees.com

    The 400s are $225. Add 2 stands at around $120 for both, $100 for the softbox,
    $25 for the umbrella. Total's $695, which gives some slack that he might want
    to use for a boom.


    Charlie Self

    "Man is a reasoning rather than a reasonable animal."
    Alexander Hamilton

    http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
     
    Charlie Self, Dec 20, 2003
    #4
  5. JJ

    zeitgeist Guest


    > Getting back into photography with digital. What would be a good start

    for
    > studio lights? Photoflood, strobe? Have done mostly outside, and fill
    > lighting til now... but living on the foggy coastline of California leaves
    > outside photography a chancy thing if you are depending on the sun

    filtering
    > through the trees for that great hair highlight!
    >



    learn to light with just one head before you start adding other lights,
    especially fill lights or you'll never learn and your pics will imitate the
    same glassy eyed splat nosed look of shopping mall kiddie pix and school
    pix.
     
    zeitgeist, Dec 21, 2003
    #5
  6. JJ

    JJ Guest

    Bob Hatch <> wrote in message
    news:bs246r$8mkn0$-berlin.de...
    >
    > "JJ" <Cookie > wrote in message
    > news:vd0Fb.499149$...
    > > Getting back into photography with digital. What would be a good start

    > for
    > Part of the answer depends on what camera you're getting. At the very

    least
    > you should make sure that your camera will do custom/manual white balance.
    > With this feature you can use photo flood, regular flood or spot lights,
    > halogen work lights, etc and get excellent looking portraits. For studio
    > strobes, I prefer White Lightning and have 5 set up for my uses. A main,
    > background, fill, hair and second background or auxiliary.
    >
    > What camera?



    I'm thinking about the Nikon D-100. I can use my lenses/flashes that I
    already have for my 35mm Nikon. I already have a digital camera (Epson
    3100z) but ALWAYS prefer the quality of my 35 mm - I am hoping that with
    the Nikon digital SLR I can get the quality of 35mm pictures with the
    convienence of digital.
     
    JJ, Dec 21, 2003
    #6
  7. JJ

    Paolo Pizzi Guest

    Jim Waggener wrote:

    > Photofloods are going to be much cheaper than strobes. But they do
    > get hot.


    Well, not necessarily. The ALZO "Cool lites" are awesome continuous
    "cold" lights. They provide as much light as conventional lamps of equal
    power but they don't get nearly as hot and they save you a lot of energy
    $$$. Yes, of course they cost more than conventional continuous lights,
    but a year of energy savings more than makes up for the difference in
    price. BTW, they are rated at 5700 Kelvins, perfect for digicameras.
     
    Paolo Pizzi, Dec 21, 2003
    #7
  8. JJ

    Bob Hatch Guest

    "JJ" <Cookie > wrote in message
    news:BIcFb.222508$...
    >
    >
    >
    > I'm thinking about the Nikon D-100. I can use my lenses/flashes that I
    > already have for my 35mm Nikon. I already have a digital camera (Epson
    > 3100z) but ALWAYS prefer the quality of my 35 mm - I am hoping that with
    > the Nikon digital SLR I can get the quality of 35mm pictures with the
    > convienence of digital.
    >

    You shouldn't be disappointed.

    Some things to remember. Digital is a lot like shooting transparency so the
    exposures are more critical than film. I know that a lot of folks are really
    hung up on "always use raw" because then you can post process the images and
    "fix" all the things you didn't get right at exposure time. But I'm
    beginning to believe that some of these guys get an erection walking down
    the meat isle in the grocery store.

    Work as hard as possible to get the exposure right the first time and spend
    more time taking images and less time messing with it in the computer. Do
    custom white balance, get the exposure as close to dead on as possible. If
    you ever did lab work you know that a properly exposed negative was easy to
    print. One that was not exposed could be "saved", but always took more work.
    IMO digital is a pure joy because there are a lot of things you can do
    easier than you can with film.
    --
    "Secular nations have one thing in common -- mass graves, and
    the reason is that they believe the government is the final arbiter
    of right and wrong and good and evil." --Rob Schenk
    http://www.bobhatch.com
     
    Bob Hatch, Dec 21, 2003
    #8
  9. "JJ" <Cookie > wrote in message
    > news:BIcFb.222508$...
    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > I'm thinking about the Nikon D-100. I can use my lenses/flashes that I
    > > already have for my 35mm Nikon. I already have a digital camera (Epson
    > > 3100z) but ALWAYS prefer the quality of my 35 mm - I am hoping that

    with
    > > the Nikon digital SLR I can get the quality of 35mm pictures with the
    > > convienence of digital.
    > >


    You should also be looking at the Fuji S2 Pro. Same body (N80) as the D100,
    Nikon F mount, but with substantially better resolution and lower noise than
    the D100.

    HMc
     
    Howard McCollister, Dec 22, 2003
    #9
  10. JJ

    Paolo Pizzi Guest

    Howard McCollister wrote:

    > You should also be looking at the Fuji S2 Pro. Same body (N80)
    > as the D100


    The D100 has the internals of the F100 and, unlike the S2, it's
    NOT encased in an N80 body (I have D100, F100 and N80,
    so I can actually tell...) The D100 is better built than the S2, more
    or less like the F100 is sturdier than the N80.

    > Nikon F mount, but with substantially better resolution


    Not true. The camera always generates a 12 mp image from the
    honeycomb SuperCCD and then down-samples, thus giving the
    IMPRESSION of a higher resolution. If you sharpen a D100
    image in Photoshop, you will get a comparable result.

    > lower noise than the D100.


    Very marginally, not noticeable to the naked eye. The D100, on
    the other hand, has much better colors. Unless you like Velvia-like
    all the time... Also the S2 has very limited continuous shooting
    capability (2 fps), no mirror lock-up or anti-vibration system
    (critical when you are shooting with a long telephoto on a tripod),
    no ISO 3200-6400 etc.

    I'm not saying the S2 is a bad camera, actually it's pretty good,
    but whoever tells you it's head and shoulders above the D100
    isn't telling you the truth. Try both and decide by yourself.
     
    Paolo Pizzi, Dec 22, 2003
    #10
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