Sticking Wooden Garage Door, how to fix

Discussion in 'Computer Support' started by W, Mar 9, 2008.

  1. W

    W Guest

    The wooden door of my rented garage is catching on the road surface after it
    was resurfaced. I need to remove some wood from the bottom of the door. I
    can not remove the door due to corrosion having 'welded!' the screws to the
    hinges. I can not use a mains paper tool as there is no mains power
    available. Can anyone advise a way of doing this (hand tool or cordless) as
    the landlord isn't being very helpful.

    Thanks.
     
    W, Mar 9, 2008
    #1
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  2. W

    VanguardLH Guest

    "W" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > The wooden door of my rented garage is catching on the road surface
    > after it was resurfaced. I need to remove some wood from the bottom
    > of the door. I can not remove the door due to corrosion having
    > 'welded!' the screws to the hinges. I can not use a mains paper
    > tool as there is no mains power available. Can anyone advise a way
    > of doing this (hand tool or cordless) as the landlord isn't being
    > very helpful.



    The garage door hits the floor/road at a right angle. So just how
    could the door "stick" on anything between two flat surfaces hitting
    each other? What do you mean by "sticking"? What kind of surface was
    used for the road? Is it tar to which the garage door is sticking?
    If so, couldn't you cut a short piece of 1x3 wood to stick inside the
    track so the door doesn't come all the way down to hit the road? Of
    course, this means the door doesn't seal on the floor and rain will
    come into the garage along with varmints. Is there a vinyl seal on
    the bottom of the garage door? You would only need a hammer to add
    one.

    Since "mains" refers to electrical power, "mains paper tool" becomes
    "electrical paper tool". So what is a "paper tool" that could do
    anything regarding the alteration of a garage door?
     
    VanguardLH, Mar 9, 2008
    #2
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  3. W

    W Guest

    "VanguardLH" <> wrote in message
    news:fr0iqk$ill$...
    > "W" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    >> The wooden door of my rented garage is catching on the road surface after
    >> it was resurfaced. I need to remove some wood from the bottom of the
    >> door. I can not remove the door due to corrosion having 'welded!' the
    >> screws to the hinges. I can not use a mains paper tool as there is no
    >> mains power available. Can anyone advise a way of doing this (hand tool
    >> or cordless) as the landlord isn't being very helpful.

    >
    >
    > The garage door hits the floor/road at a right angle. So just how could
    > the door "stick" on anything between two flat surfaces hitting each other?
    > What do you mean by "sticking"? What kind of surface was used for the
    > road? Is it tar to which the garage door is sticking? If so, couldn't you
    > cut a short piece of 1x3 wood to stick inside the track so the door
    > doesn't come all the way down to hit the road? Of course, this means the
    > door doesn't seal on the floor and rain will come into the garage along
    > with varmints. Is there a vinyl seal on the bottom of the garage door?
    > You would only need a hammer to add one.
    >
    > Since "mains" refers to electrical power, "mains paper tool" becomes
    > "electrical paper tool". So what is a "paper tool" that could do anything
    > regarding the alteration of a garage door?


    I should have made it clearer, the garage does not have an up and over door
    but two 'shed' type doors. The drive surface is tarmac and just seems to be
    too high. Paper meant power, a typo that was then auto corrected
    incorrectly, I shall be more careful in future!
     
    W, Mar 9, 2008
    #3
  4. W

    Whiskers Guest

    On 2008-03-09, W <> wrote:
    > The wooden door of my rented garage is catching on the road surface after it
    > was resurfaced. I need to remove some wood from the bottom of the door. I
    > can not remove the door due to corrosion having 'welded!' the screws to the
    > hinges. I can not use a mains paper tool as there is no mains power
    > available. Can anyone advise a way of doing this (hand tool or cordless) as
    > the landlord isn't being very helpful.
    >
    > Thanks.


    Your local DIY or tool shop could probably offer suggestions.

    If you can get a slim wood-rasp under the door, use that to scrape wood
    away until the door moves freely. Could be hard on your fingers, though!.
    Another approach is to use a strip of harsh sand-paper threaded under the
    door and worked back and forth. I think I've seen a 'wire saw' - a length
    of wire with a handle at each end, coated with a harsh abrasive. A last
    resort would be a conventional saw.

    --
    -- ^^^^^^^^^^
    -- Whiskers
    -- ~~~~~~~~~~
     
    Whiskers, Mar 9, 2008
    #4
  5. "W" <> submits OP in
    news::
    >
    > The wooden door of my rented garage is catching on
    > the road surface after it was resurfaced. I need to
    > remove some wood from the bottom of the door. I can
    > not remove the door due to corrosion having 'welded!'
    > the screws to the hinges. I can not use a mains paper
    > tool as there is no mains power available. Can anyone
    > advise a way of doing this (hand tool or cordless) as
    > the landlord isn't being very helpful.
    >
    > Thanks.




    "W" <> then clarifies in
    news::
    >
    > I should have made it clearer, the garage does not
    > have an up and over door but two 'shed' type doors.
    > The drive surface is tarmac and just seems to be
    > too high. Paper meant power, a typo that was then
    > auto corrected incorrectly, I shall be more careful
    > in future!



    It is certainly way more clearer now but not entirity
    as clearest as it might have been with or without
    Daylight Savings Time coming too earliest this year again
    in the USA, but it all boils down to Clinton when you
    think about it in rational terms emotionally - and that's
    why I'm a white upper-middle-class American and dadburnit
    proud of that fact while supporting the troops. You can too.

    Your landlord's garage door? Hmmm. Sounds like tenement
    terrorism to me! First file the lawsuit. S/he has to
    provide you usable and serviceable dwelling, grounds and
    appurtenances. And they must be maintained sanitary and
    safe too. Unless by written contract [tenants] have
    accepted these responsiblities and released your landlord.

    Tarmac above the level of the outswinging garage doors?
    That says the level of the garage floor is lower than the
    level of the drive into the garage... bad news for
    someone. Water can be smart and tricky to divert.

    I'm thinking the 2 word solution here :

    Renter's Fire Insurance.

    No power means using candles means accidents happen.

    Next time, do better hopefully. Or post a link to a
    picture of your puzzle for some mechanical designs for
    your riddle's solution.

    Happy Daylight Savings from President Bush. Yay for USA.

    --

    My name is Bucky Breeder and I approve this message!

    "Too bad the only people who know how to run the country
    are busy driving cabs and cutting hair." --George Burns

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AratTMGrHaQ

    http://www.allisoncrowe.com/music/hallelujah.mp3
     
    Bucky Breeder, Mar 9, 2008
    #5
  6. W

    Art Guest

    W wrote:
    > The wooden door of my rented garage is catching on the road surface after it
    > was resurfaced. I need to remove some wood from the bottom of the door. I
    > can not remove the door due to corrosion having 'welded!' the screws to the
    > hinges. I can not use a mains paper tool as there is no mains power
    > available. Can anyone advise a way of doing this (hand tool or cordless) as
    > the landlord isn't being very helpful.
    >
    > Thanks.
    >
    >


    You need to remove the doors, lay them out and cut a sufficient amount
    off the bottom. Trying to remove material from the bottom of the door
    while it is in place is going to be much harder than dealing with stuck
    screws in the hinges.

    --
    Art
     
    Art, Mar 9, 2008
    #6
  7. W

    VanguardLH Guest

    "W" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > "VanguardLH" <> wrote in message
    > news:fr0iqk$ill$...
    >> "W" <> wrote in message
    >> news:...
    >>> The wooden door of my rented garage is catching on the road
    >>> surface after it was resurfaced. I need to remove some wood from
    >>> the bottom of the door. I can not remove the door due to
    >>> corrosion having 'welded!' the screws to the hinges. I can not
    >>> use a mains paper tool as there is no mains power available. Can
    >>> anyone advise a way of doing this (hand tool or cordless) as the
    >>> landlord isn't being very helpful.

    >>
    >>
    >> The garage door hits the floor/road at a right angle. So just how
    >> could the door "stick" on anything between two flat surfaces
    >> hitting each other? What do you mean by "sticking"? What kind of
    >> surface was used for the road? Is it tar to which the garage door
    >> is sticking? If so, couldn't you cut a short piece of 1x3 wood to
    >> stick inside the track so the door doesn't come all the way down to
    >> hit the road? Of course, this means the door doesn't seal on the
    >> floor and rain will come into the garage along with varmints. Is
    >> there a vinyl seal on the bottom of the garage door? You would only
    >> need a hammer to add one.
    >>
    >> Since "mains" refers to electrical power, "mains paper tool"
    >> becomes "electrical paper tool". So what is a "paper tool" that
    >> could do anything regarding the alteration of a garage door?

    >
    > I should have made it clearer, the garage does not have an up and
    > over door but two 'shed' type doors. The drive surface is tarmac
    > and just seems to be too high. Paper meant power, a typo that was
    > then auto corrected incorrectly, I shall be more careful in future!
    >



    If the frame is wood, I would get a chisel and cut out the top (and
    middle) hinge recesses so those hinges can be moved farther inward.
    Fill in the old screw holes in the frame with wood putty. With the
    hinges farther back, screw them in using new holes. Moving the hinges
    farther inward will angle the doors farther up. However, the problem
    with that is that the doors may not fit inside the frame along the top
    of the doors and the doors might not fit together between the two of
    them. It depends on much freeplay you have.
     
    VanguardLH, Mar 9, 2008
    #7
  8. W

    VanguardLH Guest

    "VanguardLH" <> wrote in message
    news:fr0qet$fps$...
    > "W" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    >> "VanguardLH" <> wrote in message
    >> news:fr0iqk$ill$...
    >>> "W" <> wrote in message
    >>> news:...
    >>>> The wooden door of my rented garage is catching on the road
    >>>> surface after it was resurfaced. I need to remove some wood from
    >>>> the bottom of the door. I can not remove the door due to
    >>>> corrosion having 'welded!' the screws to the hinges. I can not
    >>>> use a mains paper tool as there is no mains power available. Can
    >>>> anyone advise a way of doing this (hand tool or cordless) as the
    >>>> landlord isn't being very helpful.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>> The garage door hits the floor/road at a right angle. So just how
    >>> could the door "stick" on anything between two flat surfaces
    >>> hitting each other? What do you mean by "sticking"? What kind of
    >>> surface was used for the road? Is it tar to which the garage door
    >>> is sticking? If so, couldn't you cut a short piece of 1x3 wood to
    >>> stick inside the track so the door doesn't come all the way down
    >>> to hit the road? Of course, this means the door doesn't seal on
    >>> the floor and rain will come into the garage along with varmints.
    >>> Is there a vinyl seal on the bottom of the garage door? You would
    >>> only need a hammer to add one.
    >>>
    >>> Since "mains" refers to electrical power, "mains paper tool"
    >>> becomes "electrical paper tool". So what is a "paper tool" that
    >>> could do anything regarding the alteration of a garage door?

    >>
    >> I should have made it clearer, the garage does not have an up and
    >> over door but two 'shed' type doors. The drive surface is tarmac
    >> and just seems to be too high. Paper meant power, a typo that was
    >> then auto corrected incorrectly, I shall be more careful in future!
    >>

    >
    >
    > If the frame is wood, I would get a chisel and cut out the top (and
    > middle) hinge recesses so those hinges can be moved farther inward.
    > Fill in the old screw holes in the frame with wood putty. With the
    > hinges farther back, screw them in using new holes. Moving the
    > hinges farther inward will angle the doors farther up. However, the
    > problem with that is that the doors may not fit inside the frame
    > along the top of the doors and the doors might not fit together
    > between the two of them. It depends on much freeplay you have.



    By the way, you mentioned the screws being corroded over. The hinges
    probably have pins that you can knock out to remove the doors. Then
    use a pry bar to see if you can move the hinge sufficiently away from
    the frame to get the screw heads to pop up to then use a lockjaw
    pliers on them.
     
    VanguardLH, Mar 9, 2008
    #8
  9. W

    Fred Kasner Guest

    VanguardLH wrote:
    > "W" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    >> The wooden door of my rented garage is catching on the road surface
    >> after it was resurfaced. I need to remove some wood from the bottom
    >> of the door. I can not remove the door due to corrosion having
    >> 'welded!' the screws to the hinges. I can not use a mains paper tool
    >> as there is no mains power available. Can anyone advise a way of
    >> doing this (hand tool or cordless) as the landlord isn't being very
    >> helpful.

    >
    >
    > The garage door hits the floor/road at a right angle. So just how could
    > the door "stick" on anything between two flat surfaces hitting each
    > other? What do you mean by "sticking"? What kind of surface was used
    > for the road? Is it tar to which the garage door is sticking? If so,
    > couldn't you cut a short piece of 1x3 wood to stick inside the track so
    > the door doesn't come all the way down to hit the road? Of course, this
    > means the door doesn't seal on the floor and rain will come into the
    > garage along with varmints. Is there a vinyl seal on the bottom of the
    > garage door? You would only need a hammer to add one.
    >
    > Since "mains" refers to electrical power, "mains paper tool" becomes
    > "electrical paper tool". So what is a "paper tool" that could do
    > anything regarding the alteration of a garage door?


    Perhaps a limited english vocabulary is at play. Try "power" in place of
    "paper".
    FK
     
    Fred Kasner, Mar 9, 2008
    #9
  10. W

    Ish Guest

    On Sun, 09 Mar 2008 11:02:17 +0000, W wrote:

    >The wooden door of my rented garage is catching on the road surface after
    >it was resurfaced. the garage does not have an up and over
    >door but two 'shed' type doors. The drive surface is tarmac and just
    >seems to be too high. I need to remove some wood from the bottom of the
    >door. I can not remove the door due to corrosion having 'welded!' the
    >screws to the hinges. I can not use a mains paper tool as there is no
    >mains power available. Can anyone advise a way of doing this (hand tool
    >or cordless) as the landlord isn't being very helpful.



    A cordless reciprocating saw would do it. It would probably be
    necessary to recharge the battery several times as they will not last
    long on a reciprocating saw. I would use 10 or 12 inch wood cutting
    blades. Place a piece of plywood or a 1x4 on the pavement to use as a
    guide, and let your blade rest on top of the board as you cut the bottom
    of the doors. That will save the blade, and make the cuts straight.

    If you feel like working long and hard you can just use an old fashion
    hand saw in the same manner.
     
    Ish, Mar 10, 2008
    #10
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