Re: What BULB do you guys use for taking pictures of automotive DIYs?

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by Robert Green, Aug 3, 2010.

  1. Robert Green

    Robert Green Guest

    "Brent" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
    > conditions (like many people do).
    >
    > Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
    > the camera flash.
    >
    > It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
    > aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
    > directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.
    >
    > Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,

    they
    > break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.
    >
    > Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"

    200W
    > bulbs from ACE?]


    Not quite an answer to your question, but I learned a technique for
    photographing engines and complex three-dimensional objects called light
    painting. You set the camera on a time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark
    garage and a tripod or magnetic clamp are a must) and then use a powerful
    light and move it all around the area to be imaged.

    I used to use tungsten bulbs, but I found that 100 LED showerhead
    flashlights are perfect for this work as the ones I have are almost the same
    color temp as daylight and emit broad, shadow free light for over an hour
    per charge with no cords. They clip into the same sort of clamps used in
    tungsten light reflectors, too.

    You'll see an improvement right away. The dark shadows thrown by hoses,
    levers, rods and wires disappear because they are "filled in" as you move
    the light source around the area of interest. .

    The 100 LED flashlights are also invaluable in microphotography - they are
    like miniature umbrella lights. They also run very cool compared to any
    incandescent light source.

    --
    Bobby G.
    Robert Green, Aug 3, 2010
    #1
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  2. Robert Green

    notbob Guest

    ["Followup-To:" header set to alt.home.repair.]

    > photographing engines and complex three-dimensional objects called light
    > painting. You set the camera on a time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark
    >
    > I used to use tungsten bulbs, but I found that 100 LED showerhead
    > flashlights are perfect for this work as the ones I have are almost the same
    > color temp as daylight and emit broad, shadow free light for over an hour


    Wow! What a great idea. Is 4 secs long enough to get that light
    moved to all the places needed. What's the max exposure time?

    Thanks for the great tip.

    nb
    notbob, Aug 3, 2010
    #2
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  3. Robert Green

    Ollie Clark Guest

    notbob wrote:
    > ["Followup-To:" header set to alt.home.repair.]
    >
    >> photographing engines and complex three-dimensional objects called light
    >> painting. You set the camera on a time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark
    >>
    >> I used to use tungsten bulbs, but I found that 100 LED showerhead
    >> flashlights are perfect for this work as the ones I have are almost the same
    >> color temp as daylight and emit broad, shadow free light for over an hour

    >
    > Wow! What a great idea. Is 4 secs long enough to get that light
    > moved to all the places needed. What's the max exposure time?


    As long as your camera allows, really as long as you get the exposure right.
    You need to experiment a bit to get the shutter speed, aperture and lighting
    right.

    Here's one of my cat with a 10 second exposure:

    http://www.ollieclark.com/shutterstock/ginger_cat_small.jpeg

    This was done with a pretty poor handheld torch. I think you'd get much
    better results with a better light source. And cats aren't really the
    best subjects for "light painting" because they move...

    Cheers,

    Ollie
    Ollie Clark, Aug 13, 2010
    #3
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