Re: router

Discussion in 'Computer Support' started by VanguardLH, Nov 15, 2010.

  1. VanguardLH

    VanguardLH Guest

    sf wrote:

    > Does this ng answer questions about wireless routers? I have a
    > Netgear that probably needs to be reset.
    >
    > Something happened the other day that required me to call the cable
    > company to help reset the modem because normal recycling didn't do it.
    > We fixed that problem, but the router still wasn't working and we all
    > know the cable company won't help you if it's not their equipment.
    >
    > It has to be the router - I've eliminated the computer, the modem and
    > cord connections. My problem is that although all the lights on the
    > router indicate it's working and the both the wireless and the desktop
    > (which is connected through a port) say they are connected to the
    > router/modem and the speed, there seems to be no viable signal... I
    > simply can't connect to the internet. I'm wondering if the place that
    > says "restore factory settings" is what I need to use. I don't see
    > any other place that could be a possibility to reset it.
    >
    > Here's something else that's totally weird. The computer is fine. It
    > worked yesterday with a friend's wireless router, but it doesn't
    > connect to the internet wirelessly or even when connected directly to
    > the modem with a cord at my house. I looked to see where to re-enter
    > a password for my network, but didn't see where that would be so I'm
    > clueless there... but I'm wondering if whatever problem it was the
    > other day erased my password in the wireless?
    >
    > If it turns out my router is hosed, do you have any recommendations
    > for a replacement? This one only lasted a year. My friend has an
    > "Airport" and recommends it. I'm a PC person, but my wireless
    > computer has no issues with his Mac equipment. I'm looking for
    > something with decent range that can send a signal through the lath
    > and plaster (probably lead painted) walls of an old house from one end
    > to the other and I'm hoping for a range of more than one level (which
    > would be nice, but is not absolutely necessary).
    >
    > Any help would be appreciated. TIA


    Can you connect to the internal web server in the router to see its
    config screens? Try http://192.168.1.1 to connect (or see the router's
    manual as to what is its default IP address).

    Then go to whatever config screen shows the current WAN-side IP address
    assigned to it. That should be an IP address assigned to your account
    from your ISP. Your router is connecting to them so it is what gets the
    dynamically assigned IP address from their DHCP server. If you see an
    APIPA (automatic private IP address) used on the WAN-side of your router
    then it means it isn't getting an IP address from your ISP.

    I never memorize what are the APIPA addresses but I know it when I see
    it. It will not be within the address range for the IP pool assigned by
    a regional registrar to your ISP. It's probably like 169.254.x.x.

    When you cycled the devices, did you do them in the following order?
    - While powered up, push the reset button on the router.
    - Power down the cable modem, router, and computer(s) in any order.
    - Power up just the cable modem. Wait for it to settle.
    - Follow by powering up just the router. Wait for it to settle.
    - Finally power up your computer and log into your account.

    The upstream DHCP server must be available for the downstream device to
    then request an IP address from it. You want the cable modem to come up
    first, then bring up the router so it gets an IP address from the DHCP
    server of your ISP, then power up your computer(s) to get an IP address
    from the DHCP server in your router.

    How old is your router? I found the D-Links start dying or going flaky
    after about 2-3 years. Linksys will last 5-8 years. I haven't used
    Netgear to be familiar with their expected lifetime. There is no fan
    inside the case. The PCB still generates heat so it is dissipated
    through convection. If the holes in the case are blocked (they aren't
    that big to begin with) by dust or even by stacking the devices then
    heat builds up, and [excessive] heat destroys electronics. Don't stack
    anything atop the router. Keep it dusted. Consumer-grade routers do
    die after a few years so it might be time to replace.
    VanguardLH, Nov 15, 2010
    #1
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