Re: Making 2 separate scans to preserve details in shadow and highlight

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by Alan F Cross, Jul 25, 2003.

  1. Alan F Cross

    Alan F Cross Guest

    In message <>, Adrian
    <> writes
    >Recently, I decided to attempt a scan of negative taken inside the
    >visitor's center of Teotihuacan (outside Mexico City) with its view of
    >the "Pyramid of the Sun." Unfortunately, the brightness to darkness
    >ratio would either allow detail of the pyramid, but the model of the
    >city in the foreground would be lost to darkness. And the inverse was
    >true, if I opened up for detail in the shadows, the pyramid through
    >the windows would be totally blown out.
    >
    >What I decided to do was to make 2 separate scans, one for the detail
    >in the pyramid and a separate one for the detail in the city model. I
    >then opened both in Photoshop, with the background detail as the
    >bottom layer, and copy/pasted the shadow detail scanned image over the
    >bottom layer and just erased blown-out parts of image to reveal the
    >detail of the pyramid. Finished example at this link:
    >
    >http://www.amenfoto.com/gallery/mexico/teotihuacan_view.html
    >
    >Adrian
    >
    >"A Picture's Worth a Thousand Nerds"
    >
    >http://www.amenfoto.com/


    I have done this on more than one occasion, and it may work, depending
    on what is held in the negative. What is even neater is to set your
    camera on a tripod, take some bracketing shots, and then combine these
    in Photoshop. Of course, this takes the foresight to anticipate the
    problem (another advantage of shooting digital!). One area where
    bracketed shots work well (and are pretty well indispensable) is
    shooting church interiors with stained glass windows. It's the only way
    to capture the interior detail *and* the artwork of the windows. One
    thing to watch - if you have a filter on, remove it, and ensure that
    your lens is scrupulously clean. Otherwise highlights halo-ing into the
    shadows may make the final result look like a fudge.

    Your shadow foreground area has drifted to magenta (at least on my
    screen), so you may want to apply a bit of colour balance to this layer.
    --
    Alan F Cross
    Alan F Cross, Jul 25, 2003
    #1
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  2. Alan F Cross

    Alan F Cross Guest

    In message <>, Annika1980
    <> writes
    >>From: Alan F Cross

    >
    >>What is even neater is to set your
    >>camera on a tripod, take some bracketing shots, and then combine these
    >>in Photoshop.

    >
    >An easier approach (for me) is to shoot in RAW mode and expose for the
    >highlights as you might when shooting slide film. Then, the image can be
    >converted two ways ... As Shot, and with more exposure added. This brings out
    >detail in the shadow areas which would otherwise be black.
    >
    >
    >
    >


    The original post was shooting negative - so RAW does not apply.

    A well bracket set of exposures will achieve more than the +/- 1.5 stops
    that RAW will give you - as you can spot both shadows and highlights and
    choose the latitude for the brackets to be as wide as you like. How
    realistic it will look in practice is another matter!
    --
    Alan F Cross
    Alan F Cross, Jul 25, 2003
    #2
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  3. Alan F Cross

    John Eyles Guest

    >What I decided to do was to make 2 separate scans, one for the detail
    >in the pyramid and a separate one for the detail in the city model ...


    The 3rd-party scanner software Vuescan (www.hamrick.com) does this for
    you automatically if you select the option "Long Exposure Pass".

    John
    John Eyles, Jul 25, 2003
    #3
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