Philips DVP642 problem (nothing works)

Discussion in 'DVD Video' started by animlovr@gmail.com, Aug 30, 2006.

  1. Guest

    Hi. I have a Philips DVP642 that was working just fine before a two
    week vacation. After returning, nothing except the "Stand By" light
    works. The tray will not eject. It won't turn on or off. I've
    unplugged it for hours and tried again, but nothing. When I hold down
    the Stand By button, it just starts flashing. There are some DVD cases
    on top of the unit, but they've been there long before I left and it
    worked fine, so I don't think it's a matter of clearance. It's
    possible that there is a disc in the tray and it may have been left on,
    but I really don't know for sure. Any suggestions? It's out of
    warranty, so Philips wants to charge me $15.00.
    Thanks,
    Tim
    , Aug 30, 2006
    #1
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  2. Mike S. Guest

    In article <>,
    <> wrote:
    >Hi. I have a Philips DVP642 that was working just fine before a two
    >week vacation. After returning, nothing except the "Stand By" light
    >works. The tray will not eject. It won't turn on or off. I've
    >unplugged it for hours and tried again, but nothing. When I hold down
    >the Stand By button, it just starts flashing. There are some DVD cases
    >on top of the unit, but they've been there long before I left and it
    >worked fine, so I don't think it's a matter of clearance. It's
    >possible that there is a disc in the tray and it may have been left on,
    >but I really don't know for sure. Any suggestions? It's out of
    >warranty, so Philips wants to charge me $15.00.


    A quick Google search would turn up gazillions of posts on this. A
    capacitor in the power supply has gone bad. If you can wield a soldering
    iron, you can fix it for pennies.

    One example:

    Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem..
    _________________________________________________________________

    Common DVP 642 problem (only problem with a great player): They die,
    and you have a blinking red power button.

    This is actually surprisingly easy to fix. It's really easier than I
    make it look, but I'm just being really clear in case anyone reading
    this has never seen a soldering iron before. Here are the steps I did
    (and note that, if you're still under warranty, this will void your
    warranty). The decision to try this is up to your own discretion
    and may be a last ditch effort before throwing the player away.

    Short version: Check the board to see if capacitor C316 is bulging. If
    so, get a 1000u capacitor >=16V and replace it.

    Long version:

    1. Unplug everything
    2. Unscrew the side and rear screws to remove the top cover.
    3. On the board where the power cable goes in, look for a capacitor
    (looks like a little drum with a '+' on the
    top) that is bulging upward either a little or a lot. It may be
    leaking some brown fluid as well.
    4. I'm betting that the writing on the board at this location says
    'C316'. If you google 'dvp642' and 'c316', you'll get hundreds of hits...
    5. If that's the case, you'll need to find a capacitor and a soldering
    iron. Visit radio shack or similar electronics
    place and buy an elecrolytic capacitor that says 1000u (the 'u' is
    actually a lower case greek 'mu') with a
    voltage greater than or equal to 16v (this is not calculated: it's
    simply what others have reported success with.
    I couldn't find one and used a 35V one instead). You should be able to
    find one that looks somewhat similar to
    the damaged one (it might be a little bigger or smaller, but you'll
    want the same basic shape). This should cost less than $2.
    6. Borrow or buy a cheap soldering iron and some solder. I borrowed
    one from a friend at work...this is NOT
    my area of expertise, so don't worry about the difficulty!
    7. Now the tricky part: back on your DVD player, you need to get that
    board out. Unplug the two cables
    connecting to the board we're working on, unscrew the screws holding
    it down, and, using some pliers, hold
    down the wings of the little plastic piece that is still holding the
    board down and slide the board up. I flipped
    this around to get at the bottom while leaving the power cord in
    place.
    8. Heat up the soldering iron. Locate the spot on the bottom of the
    board where the C316 capacitor is attached.
    Remove your new capacitor from the package. There should be one
    shorter leg which is the negative side. It
    will likely be marked this way as well.
    9. One side of the capacitor should have a ' -' on it. Note which side
    this is. You may not be able to see it until it
    is removed, so be aware of needing to know this as you remove it.
    10. After it is warm enough to melt solder, lay the soldering iron
    across the joints you identified as belonging to
    C316. Tug gently on C316 as you do this and it should soon come free.
    This is a little tricky to hold the iron,
    the board, and the capacitor all at once, so please don't burn
    yourself! Again, note which side is negative and
    which hole it came from. This is the negative hole, and the other is
    positive. There will likely be some solder
    left over around each hole. Just try not to let it run between the two
    holes or you will short out the connection.
    11. Grab your new capacitor and line up the longer leg with the
    positive hole. Lay the soldering iron against
    that hole on the other side and push the leg through. Line up the
    negative leg/hole and repeat. Lay the iron
    across both to heat up enough to push the capacitor legs through and
    the capacitor down to the board.
    12. Check the connections for each leg. There should be a small mound
    of solder joining each leg to the metal
    of the board, but not running to any other point of the board. If it's
    run to some other points, you'll need to do
    some searching to see how to clean up it up a little bit as I'm not an
    expert at this. If you need a little more
    solder, lay the iron across the joint for a few seconds, then feed
    your solder into the hot spot until a small
    amount flows over the joint. Remove the iron, wait a moment, then
    remove the solder. Look at the other
    solder joints on the board for a rough idea of how it should look.
    13. Use some wire cutters to trim the legs down to the solder.
    14. Pop the board back over the plastic piece and reconnect the cables.
    15. At this point, you're on your own. Personally, I made sure I
    wasn't touching any metal and plugged it in.
    Since I didn't blow any fuses and the player seemed to work, I
    unplugged it, reassembled it, and went to watch a movie.
    Mike S., Aug 30, 2006
    #2
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  3. seaniekaye

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2007
    Messages:
    1
    Awesome

    Thank you so much! I haven't soldered anything since I was in cub scouts, but this was a piece of cake. My DVP-642 would have ended up in the trash otherwise, and I love this thing. thank you thank you .
    seaniekaye, Aug 4, 2007
    #3
  4. cap1

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2007
    Messages:
    1
    I am experiencing the identical problem as "animlovr" described above and when I saw this thread I knew I had a solution. So today I went to Radio Shack and purchsased a 1000u, 50VDC capacitor - their part # 272-1047 ($2.59). I opened the DVD and removed the power board and now have several questions:

    1. I cannot locate a C316 on the board. The only capacitor that looks anything like what I bought at Radio Shack is labled C304. C304 is mounted in such a way that I cannot read the specs printed on it. However, C304 is the only capacitor whose size comes anywhere close to Radio Shack part # 272-1047 - i.e., a cylinder about 1" long and about 1/2" diameter. Is this the same one ?

    2. C304 does not show any signs of bulging or leaking as "Mike" said in paragraph 2. Could it still be bad even if doesn't display these signs ?

    3. Radio Shack part # 272-1047 has one lead from each end, whereas C304 has both leads on the same end. Should I try to make # 272-1047 fit or should I search for one with both leads on the same end ?

    4. In addition to being soldered down, C304 appears to be cemented to the power board. How do I remove it from the board without causing any other damage ?

    I don't know if this makes any difference, but my DVD player is a DVP642/37.

    Thank you in advance for your help. I am pleased with this DVD player and would just love to get it back up and running for $2.59 !
    cap1, Oct 1, 2007
    #4
  5. goalstopper

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2008
    Messages:
    1
    Works Perfect

    Thanks for the post, worked great
    goalstopper, Mar 2, 2008
    #5
  6. zarniwoop

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2009
    Messages:
    1
    Thank You, Thank You and Thank You!

    My DVP642 did the blinking red light and nothing else trick.

    Picked up a 1000u, 50VDC capacitor part # 272-1047 from
    radio shack.

    Found the BULGING cap c316 and replaced it with the radio shack
    cap.

    Fixed!

    Thanks Mike S. and Cap 1. This is much better than buying a player.
    Thanks again.

    Greg.
    zarniwoop, Jan 21, 2009
    #6
  7. imet

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2009
    Messages:
    1
    Thank you !

    I took the time to register on the forum just to say THANK YOU. It worked perfectly for less than 5 USD all included (capacitor + iron). I did it with my son of 14 and am a woman with no technician background.
    After experience, a few hints more :
    - when you want to detach the panel, there is a little white plastic tower that you have to narrow to be abble to unplug the panel
    - when using the iron to take the damaged capacitor away, be patient : it does not melt so easily
    - the minus side is the side with grey strip (on the left handside if you face the capacitor when looking from the DVD handside (shortest side of DVD player)
    - when putting the new capacitor, be careful not to break the tiny "iron" things and fold them smoothly on each side not trying to push as much as you can on the capacitor on the other side
    - be very careful not to make "bridges" when using the iron to put the new capacitor back, do it little by little.

    All in all great fun and experience, money saved and good for the planet as I did not have to throw the DVD player away.

    By the way, I have other electronic things to repair, how do you find the component that is failing ?

    Thanks again.
    imet, Dec 1, 2009
    #7
  8. qdin

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2009
    Messages:
    1
    one more success story

    I was ready to bust my DVD player open Office Space style to retrieve my Total Recall disc. Just before going to get my hammer, I hopped on the net and found this posting.

    I have a little bit of soldering experience, but am pretty bad at it in general... but still managed to get the old cap out and the new one in.

    Needless to say, my player works fine now (at least for the past 10 min) and my Total Recall DVD is safe and sound without a scratch.

    FYI, I used a different model: 272-1032. It's 1000uF, but only 35V max, which still more than satisfies the >=16V constraint. It was also nearly half the price ($1.59). I bought two in case this happens again.

    A note to some guys/gals above: 272-1047 is an "axial lead" cap (leads on either side of the cylinder, so I'm not sure how you got this to work. 272-1032 is "radial lead" (leads on one side of the cylinder), like C316.

    Nothin' like some good ol' fashioned DIY fun.

    Thanks!

    qdin
    qdin, Dec 22, 2009
    #8
  9. mms

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2010
    Messages:
    1
    Many thanks to all of your comments & notes!

    I just did the repair and a couple notes:

    I am female, never soldered anything before. It is rather easy, though patience is important!

    My C316 capacitor looked completely intact--NO bulging/oozing, nothing. I still decided to replace it, because the symptoms were exactly the same. And it was the problem.

    It helps to have a second set of hands with the soldering, both the removal and soldering the new capacitor in.

    I also picked up the 272-1032 1000mf 35volt one.

    It was my 1st time soldering, patience was important in the removal(make sure you pay attention to the way the original faces); with installation I had the circuit board thing upside-down, and after little success at getting the melted solder to end up where I wanted it, I held the solder parallel to the prong of the capacitor and let the melted blob slide down the prong. It worked great that way.

    I started "researching" this issue around 3 pm, had materials around 8:30pm and finished about 10pm (I tried using an old solder gun thing that somebody lent me 1st, it was too big though, then reverted to an $8 one that I bought at Radio Shack that came with solder).

    Good luck to all who come after us!! :)
    mms, Jan 3, 2010
    #9
  10. larryb

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2010
    Messages:
    1
    Another success story

    Just wanted to weigh in with my thanks for this. My DVP642 just started doing this last night as we sat down to watch some 'Monk'. Thanks to Google, I found this thread describing my symptoms exactly.

    My C316 cap was intact, visually, but I trotted over to Radio Shack during my lunch today, bought the 1000uF 35V cap for $1.59, and soldered it in after dinner tonight.

    I removed the power supply circuit board entirely (needle-nose pliers will help disconnect the ribbon cables and remove the board from the plastic clip that holds it to the bottom of the player), and gently held it in a bench vise while I replaced the capacitor. Piece of cake.

    Worked perfectly. Total outlay: less than $2 and about 20 minutes of my time. Payback: a working DVD player and a sense of satisfaction.

    These days, it's so unusual that you can fix things like this yourself...I'm grateful to save the money, and keep this unit out of a landfill. Thank you!
    larryb, Jun 15, 2010
    #10
  11. joesaukcity

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2010
    Messages:
    1
    Thank you very much, I found my bulging C316 capacitor :tea:
    joesaukcity, Nov 8, 2010
    #11
  12. fawdown

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2010
    Messages:
    1
    I know that this thread started a long time ago, but I just wanted to write about how helpful it was to me. I used your suggestion with success even though my machine was doing something a bit different.

    With mine I would turn it on, then I would hear a chirp in the speakers, then it would turn off.

    I opened it to see the C316 cap all puffed out. But this cap shows 10v 1000u. So I pulled the identical cap out of another dead dvd player (a generic POS that lasted 3 months), and put it in. I do circuit board repair for old arcade machines, so it was easy. It works perfectly.

    Note:

    A similar method could be used for other machines too. Just look for a damaged cap, or do some research on the high drain (first in line) ones to look for trouble areas. Save these things having to be recycled before their time.

    Thanks.
    fawdown, Nov 27, 2010
    #12
  13. Kalua

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2010
    Messages:
    1
    I found the bulging capacitor and replaced it with a similar one from Radio Shack. Thank you for posting this information.

    Kind regards.
    Kalua, Nov 28, 2010
    #13
  14. rahreg

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    1
    Hi.

    I have 3 Philips 642s which all broke around the same time. Two of them broke several years ago and I fixed them as described in this thread. The other was fine all this time so it still had the original capacitor in it.

    I replaced the capacitor in that one and now it's working again.

    But the other 2 did not experience the same blinking light problem. They attempt to load the disc. The displa will say 'Loading', then it will stop for a second, then it will try again. This becomes an endless loop that can only be stopped by unplugging it.

    I took the fixed circuit board and put it in one of the other 2 just to make sure it was a problem with the capacitor and that did NOT help. It's still in a loading loop. So it seems its not only not a problem with that capacitor but its not a problem with anything else on the board otherwise the working board should have fixed the other unit.


    I tried searching for a solution but I kept finding the fix in this thread. Anyone have any suggestions?

    Thanks

    Ross
    rahreg, Oct 22, 2011
    #14
  15. Kent_Diego

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2012
    Messages:
    3
    I replaced C316 with a 3300uF 6.3V capacitor. I measured the circuit and it is 5V so 6.3 volt is perfect. Going larger in capacitance never hurts and there is room for a larger cap. I made a repair tutorial video with step by step instructions:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NeeC4kUqmk
    Kent_Diego, Jan 15, 2012
    #15
  16. Kent_Diego

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2012
    Messages:
    3
    A typical failure mode for any DVD player is for the LED laser diode to fail. Try a CD to see if that works as they use a different laser diode for DVD than CD.
    Kent_Diego, Jan 17, 2012
    #16
  17. zapi5

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2012
    Messages:
    1
    I followed your youtube instructions with no luck

    My Philips DVD Player stopped working so I searched the internet for the fix solutions. I found your youtube instructional video, but replacing the capacitor that you suggested didn't fix my player. I bought 3300uF 6.3V capacitor from Radio Shack like you suggested. The is one difference in my problem - my player standby light isn't on at all. It's completely dead. At first I thought it was a fuse but the fuse is intact. I checked the voltage across the biggest capacitor on the board. It's the one that is laying down. The voltmeter read something like 368V if I remember it correctly so I know there is a power coming to the board. The original capacitor that I replaced didn't have any bulging, nor any other capacitors have visible bulging. I don't know where the problem is. I'd appreciate your suggestions. Thank you.
    zapi5, Mar 25, 2012
    #17
  18. rmg_hrr

    Joined:
    May 12, 2012
    Messages:
    1
    My DVP642 goes to standby after 2 minutes and I found that the Vibrato Chip is over heating.

    I replace the C316 10V 1000uf Cap with 16V 1000uf but still the same result.
    Can some body help me?
    rmg_hrr, May 12, 2012
    #18
  19. rmidgett

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2014
    Messages:
    1
    Phillips DVP642 problem (nothing works)

    As are several others, I'm in the debt of those who made this post & thread. Without it, I wouldn't have been able to repair one of these machines. I made some photos in the hope they would help others make this simple repair.
    I had a 16 volt 1000uF cap in the parts bin, so I used it. I had to leave the leads long enough to bend the capacitor over because it is too tall otherwise. I noted during the repair that the factory used the same technique for another large electrolytic cap in the power supply.
    This particular DVD player belongs to a coworker who is from Russia. She chose it because it will play both NTSC & PAL encoded DVDs. Many thanks to those who posted how to make this repair.
    You can see C316 to the right of the transformer (large black & yellow device in the middle of the power supply printed circuit board); note the bulging top on C316 as compared to the other capacitors.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 15, 2014
    rmidgett, Mar 15, 2014
    #19
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