Nik Sharpener Pro and Canon 10D

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by n, Jan 16, 2004.

  1. n

    n Guest

    I tried making some prints using Nik Sharpener and they came back
    terrible, I think because I had used the wrong settings. Fortunately
    the prints were not too large and expensive to make! The next lot will
    be A4 size so I would like to make sure I have the settings ok!

    I am using a canon 10D and shooting RAW in the adobe RBG colour
    space.

    (A few shots were taken as Large Fine, which I think means they will
    be saved as jpeg, which I think kicks in an automatic sharpening...
    which I heard here may effect the image quality if i go on to sharpen
    later with Nik Sharpern Pro...?)

    I edit the RAW images in 16 bit using Photoshop CS in Adobe RBG
    workspace.

    Then I save the file as a .BMP per my labs instructions.

    The lab will make A4 prints for me using a Frontier and Adobe RBG :) .
    It is 300 dpi.

    (I was surprised this was so low considering the nik sharpener pro
    settings *start* at 300 dpi and go up to over a thousand!)

    I will stick the prints on a wall for people to see at reading
    distance.

    I would like to know what settings to use:

    IMAGE HEIGHT / WIDTH
    No problems with that

    IMAGE SOURCE
    OK, it has a setting for top end digital cameras, and the 10D is top
    end, right?! :)
    But it also says for cameras with more than 4.2 million pixels use
    the appropriate middle or large format transparency setting. The
    options there are:

    APS film
    Small Format Slide (35mm or similar slides, positive or negative)
    Medium Format Slides (medium format positive or negative)
    Large Transparency (Large transparency of any format)

    Which should I select?
    These won't be effected by whether I shoot RAW or Large Fine, will
    they?
    (Large fine = .TIFF Large ordinary =jpeg, right?)

    IMAGE QUALITY
    Do I leave this as default in the centre or move it up to good?

    PRINTER QUALITY
    It is a laser, right? and a good quality one, I think... so I move
    this up to the right and set is as good...

    EYE DISTANCE
    Well, they might come close to peer at it so I guess I should set this
    as Book, as if they were holiding it in their hands.

    PERSONAL PROFILE
    I have yet to see some well made prints with this yet but i guess ZAP
    would be the most impressive sharpening...?

    I look forward to your kind help!

    :)
     
    n, Jan 16, 2004
    #1
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  2. n

    Kenny Guest

    "n" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    >
    > Then I save the file as a .BMP per my labs instructions.
    >


    That's most of your problem. Change to a lab that will work with JPG or
    TIF. And stop over-sharpening your images. I think you need lessons in
    post-processing!

    Kenny
     
    Kenny, Jan 16, 2004
    #2
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  3. n

    bmoag Guest

    It can be an expensive lesson that one has to spend less money on stuff and
    more time learning what it does and how to use it. There is a big learning
    curve for both your hardware and especially your software. Many Photshop
    plug-ins just automate features that are already in PS filters or other
    functions but that can be very useful. IMHOP PS sharpening is adequate for
    printing needs but you have to have a consistent workflow, including the
    printer, so your results will remain consistent and print results will be
    reasonably predictable. As you have learned the sharpening you see on your
    monitor after applying the sharpening filter or plug-in does not reliably
    predict what you will see in the print. You should know if your camera
    allows you to turn sharpening down or off regardless of the format in which
    the image is stored. Personally I think the value of saving images in RAW
    format is not worth the storage space for most non-professional uses because
    the camera image processing algorithms are probably better than what anyone
    but very experienced users will obtain on their own.
     
    bmoag, Jan 16, 2004
    #3
  4. n

    n Guest

    "bmoag" <> wrote in message news:<AcUNb.11620$>...
    > It can be an expensive lesson that one has to spend less money on stuff and
    > more time learning what it does and how to use it. There is a big learning
    > curve for both your hardware and especially your software. Many Photshop
    > plug-ins just automate features that are already in PS filters or other
    > functions but that can be very useful. IMHOP PS sharpening is adequate for
    > printing needs but you have to have a consistent workflow, including the
    > printer, so your results will remain consistent and print results will be
    > reasonably predictable. As you have learned the sharpening you see on your
    > monitor after applying the sharpening filter or plug-in does not reliably
    > predict what you will see in the print. You should know if your camera
    > allows you to turn sharpening down or off regardless of the format in which
    > the image is stored. Personally I think the value of saving images in RAW
    > format is not worth the storage space for most non-professional uses because
    > the camera image processing algorithms are probably better than what anyone
    > but very experienced users will obtain on their own.



    IT is good to hear that the processing in the 10d is good; i won´t
    feel guilty not shooting raw in future! I can´t see whether I can turn
    sharpening down or off in the 10d. Anybody know?

    When I am not concerned about running out of memory i like to shoot
    raw as it allows me, i believe, to extract a reasonable photo from low
    light conditions and i always seem to have a lens that is too slow or
    not fast enough iso. I believe shooting raw would be a bit like making
    my lens faster.
     
    n, Jan 28, 2004
    #4
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