Monitor Screen is not sharp but faint

Discussion in 'Computer Support' started by Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 3, 2008.

  1. Hi,

    I have Samsung 21" Monitor Screen but it is getting fainter. Slide bars are
    not sharp. Is it packing up or there is an adjustment to darken the screen
    lines.

    Where can I adjust the brightness and contrast please?

    Rajinder
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 3, 2008
    #1
    1. Advertising

  2. Chaudhry.Nijjhar

    John Holmes Guest

    Chaudhry.Nijjhar "contributed" in 24hoursupport.helpdesk:

    > Hi,
    >
    > I have Samsung 21" Monitor Screen but it is getting fainter. Slide
    > bars are not sharp. Is it packing up or there is an adjustment to
    > darken the screen lines.
    >
    > Where can I adjust the brightness and contrast please?
    >
    > Rajinder
    >
    >


    Stop eating garlic and curry spiced dishes. Or stop breathing when your
    at your computer. The cause of your monitor fainting is that your breath
    leaves a tin garlic and curry foil on the monitor.

    HTH

    --
    <snip>
     
    John Holmes, Oct 4, 2008
    #2
    1. Advertising

  3. Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:

    > Hi,
    >
    > I have Samsung 21" Monitor Screen but it is getting fainter. Slide bars
    > are
    > not sharp. Is it packing up or there is an adjustment to darken the
    > screen lines.
    >
    > Where can I adjust the brightness and contrast please?
    >

    If it's a tube monitor, it may well be at EOL - but check for bad contacts
    on your vga connectors first. Un- and replugging alone may change image
    quality, at least for a while.
    If it's a flatscreen, check contacts as well and use DVI when possible.
     
    wisdomkiller & pain, Oct 4, 2008
    #3
  4. Chaudhry.Nijjhar

    mail Guest

    Open up the set by unseating all the screws.
    Be careful when you are taking out the back casing.
    Look for the variables for adjusting the color, contrast and the clarity.
    There should be 3 or 4 for you to adjust it.
    Be sure to turn off the power before dismantling. But then you have to extra
    careful to do the tuning of those varaibles with the power on.
    After tuning it, you can turn off the power and put back the casing.
    Sometimes you need to do it twice to get the best results.
    Interesting skill to try.
    Regards

    "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    message news:...
    > Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >
    >> Hi,
    >>
    >> I have Samsung 21" Monitor Screen but it is getting fainter. Slide bars
    >> are
    >> not sharp. Is it packing up or there is an adjustment to darken the
    >> screen lines.
    >>
    >> Where can I adjust the brightness and contrast please?
    >>

    > If it's a tube monitor, it may well be at EOL - but check for bad contacts
    > on your vga connectors first. Un- and replugging alone may change image
    > quality, at least for a while.
    > If it's a flatscreen, check contacts as well and use DVI when possible.
    >
     
    mail, Oct 4, 2008
    #4
  5. "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    message news:...
    > Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >
    >> Hi,
    >>
    >> I have Samsung 21" Monitor Screen but it is getting fainter. Slide bars
    >> are
    >> not sharp. Is it packing up or there is an adjustment to darken the
    >> screen lines.
    >>
    >> Where can I adjust the brightness and contrast please?
    >>

    > If it's a tube monitor, it may well be at EOL - but check for bad contacts
    > on your vga connectors first. Un- and replugging alone may change image
    > quality, at least for a while.
    > If it's a flatscreen, check contacts as well and use DVI when possible.


    Hi,

    Some times the screen goes black for a while and then returns, On other
    oaccasions, I have to unplug the monitor and replug.

    Where is this DVI setting please?

    Rajinder


    >
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 4, 2008
    #5
  6. Hi,

    Many thanks. I will do so in the presence of a learned person.

    Rajinder

    "mail" <> wrote in message
    news:gc7p0s$isf$...
    > Open up the set by unseating all the screws.
    > Be careful when you are taking out the back casing.
    > Look for the variables for adjusting the color, contrast and the clarity.
    > There should be 3 or 4 for you to adjust it.
    > Be sure to turn off the power before dismantling. But then you have to
    > extra careful to do the tuning of those varaibles with the power on.
    > After tuning it, you can turn off the power and put back the casing.
    > Sometimes you need to do it twice to get the best results.
    > Interesting skill to try.
    > Regards
    >
    > "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    > message news:...
    >> Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >>
    >>> Hi,
    >>>
    >>> I have Samsung 21" Monitor Screen but it is getting fainter. Slide bars
    >>> are
    >>> not sharp. Is it packing up or there is an adjustment to darken the
    >>> screen lines.
    >>>
    >>> Where can I adjust the brightness and contrast please?
    >>>

    >> If it's a tube monitor, it may well be at EOL - but check for bad
    >> contacts
    >> on your vga connectors first. Un- and replugging alone may change image
    >> quality, at least for a while.
    >> If it's a flatscreen, check contacts as well and use DVI when possible.
    >>

    >
    >
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 4, 2008
    #6
  7. Thank you.

    Rajinder


    "§ñühwØ£f" <> wrote in message
    news:p...
    > On Fri, 03 Oct 2008 19:24:00 +0100, Chaudhry.Nijjhar aided th' terraists
    > with the following claims :
    >
    >> Hi,
    >>
    >> I have Samsung 21" Monitor Screen but it is getting fainter. Slide bars
    >> are
    >> not sharp. Is it packing up or there is an adjustment to darken the
    >> screen
    >> lines.
    >>
    >> Where can I adjust the brightness and contrast please?
    >>
    >> Rajinder

    >
    > Look for the FFC ID code on the back of the monitor and g00gle for the
    > manual, support website etc.
    >
    > DONT OPEN UP THE MONITOR! THeres a capacitor in there that holds enough
    > charge to kill you.
    > FYI
    >
    > --
    > "Those who can make you believe absurdities,
    > can make you commit atrocities" - Voltaire
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 4, 2008
    #7
  8. Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:


    > Hi,
    >
    > Some times the screen goes black for a while and then returns, On other
    > oaccasions, I have to unplug the monitor and replug.
    >

    You are talking about a tube monitor?
    Do you hear some sort of click when it goes black? - it may be a protection
    circuit. Sometimes accumulated dust does this, but most of the time some
    big capacitors are at E.O.L.
    A can of "compressed air" and a vacuum cleaner with soft brush should help
    you. Afterwards you can locate the focus potentiometer and try to adjust
    it, but that needs turning on the device and may expose you to dangerous
    voltages.
    Opening a tube monitor can be dangerous. I have done it myself, though.
    First unplug it and leave it for some hours before you proceed.

    > Where is this DVI setting please?
    >

    Tube monitors - except maybe new professional ones - do not have the white
    DVI socket.
     
    wisdomkiller & pain, Oct 5, 2008
    #8
  9. Chaudhry.Nijjhar

    ian field Guest

    "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    message news:...
    > Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >
    >
    >> Hi,
    >>
    >> Some times the screen goes black for a while and then returns, On other
    >> oaccasions, I have to unplug the monitor and replug.
    >>

    > You are talking about a tube monitor?
    > Do you hear some sort of click when it goes black? - it may be a
    > protection
    > circuit. Sometimes accumulated dust does this, but most of the time some
    > big capacitors are at E.O.L.
    > A can of "compressed air" and a vacuum cleaner with soft brush should help
    > you. Afterwards you can locate the focus potentiometer and try to adjust
    > it, but that needs turning on the device and may expose you to dangerous
    > voltages.
    > Opening a tube monitor can be dangerous. I have done it myself, though.
    > First unplug it and leave it for some hours before you proceed.


    About a couple of decades ago some 'genius' at Philips decided to issue a
    memo claiming that due to the high stability of modern SMPSUs, CRT heaters
    should be operated at 6.15V instead of the correct 6.3V. It seems that most
    manufacturers have been misled!

    The result of underrunning the heaters is that the cathodes emissive coating
    becomes contaminated by the remnants of gasses left after the tube has been
    gettered.

    If the loss of emission isn't too far gone it can be recovered by loading an
    all white wallpaper (scan a blank sheet of printer paper and use the file as
    wallpaper) and leave the monitor running the white screen at full Bri & Cont
    and see whether it recovers.

    Another common cause of emission failure is a worn out electrolytic
    capacitor after the rectifier for the heater supply - adding at least 1uF
    low ESR non-electrolytic in parallel with the replacement will prolong its
    life.

    Its always worth checking the heater voltage, if its less than 6.3V trace
    the track back to the rectifier and determine whether or not its a
    shottky-barrier type - if it is then the only possible improvement is look
    for resistors that can be eliminated on the way to the heater.

    If the heater rectifier isn't a SB type then significant improvement can be
    had from fitting one. It is vital to ensure that the SB rectifier's reverse
    voltage not be exceeded! 20, 30 & 40V types are fairly common but won't be
    adequate 60V types are more expensive and might only just do the job. One
    possible solution is to protect the rectifier with it's own snubber
    circuit - first off, with the original rectifier in place make a peak
    detector with a rectifier and capacitor in series, across the existing
    rectifier but with the peak detector rectifier pointing the other way - so
    you can measure the peak reverse voltage. The sum of the peak reverse
    voltage and the rectified voltage must not exceed the rated voltage of the
    SB rectifier to be used.

    One trick to bring down the peak reverse voltage is to shunt the capacitor
    in the previously described peak detector with a resistor - lower the value
    until the peak voltage is damped low enough. Adding the resistor has turned
    the peak detector into a snubber.

    SB rectifiers generally have higher junction capacitance which can cause
    higher ripple on the rectified rail, so its a good idea to replace the
    reservoir capacitor with a new low ESR type and better yet bolster it's low
    ESR by adding at least 1uF non-electrolytic in parallel.
     
    ian field, Oct 5, 2008
    #9
  10. "Desk Rabbit" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > mail wrote:
    >> "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    >> message news:...
    >>> Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >>>
    >>>> Hi,
    >>>>
    >>>> I have Samsung 21" Monitor Screen but it is getting fainter. Slide
    >>>> bars
    >>>> are
    >>>> not sharp. Is it packing up or there is an adjustment to darken the
    >>>> screen lines.
    >>>>
    >>>> Where can I adjust the brightness and contrast please?
    >>>>
    >>> If it's a tube monitor, it may well be at EOL - but check for bad
    >>> contacts
    >>> on your vga connectors first. Un- and replugging alone may change image
    >>> quality, at least for a while.
    >>> If it's a flatscreen, check contacts as well and use DVI when possible.
    >>>

    >>
    >>

    >
    > <Soopid top posting corrected.>
    >
    > > Open up the set by unseating all the screws.
    > > Be careful when you are taking out the back casing.
    > > Look for the variables for adjusting the color, contrast and the

    > clarity.
    > > There should be 3 or 4 for you to adjust it.
    > > Be sure to turn off the power before dismantling. But then you have

    > to extra
    > > careful to do the tuning of those varaibles with the power on.
    > > After tuning it, you can turn off the power and put back the casing.
    > > Sometimes you need to do it twice to get the best results.
    > > Interesting skill to try.
    > > Regards
    > >

    >
    > In the context of a CRT monitor, that is extremely dangerous advice and
    > following that advice could cause serious injury or death. Do not open CRT
    > monitors and under no circumstances put yourself or any other items inside
    > the unit whether it is switched on or off. There are voltages in excess of
    > 25,000 volts inside a CRT and these can remain there even when the unit is
    > off. I've seen people take the skin off the back of their hands on the
    > sharp edges of a monitor frame when they have got a shock and the reflex
    > action has caused them to withdraw their hand rapidly.
    >
    > I the OP can't adjust the brightness and contrast sufficiently with the
    > consumer controls then they should take it to a qualified repair
    > technician.


    Thank you very much and I shall be taking it to a qualified Technician. I
    attend a Computer club and over there people are helpful.

    Rajinder
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 6, 2008
    #10
  11. "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    message news:...
    > Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >
    >
    >> Hi,
    >>
    >> Some times the screen goes black for a while and then returns, On other
    >> oaccasions, I have to unplug the monitor and replug.
    >>

    > You are talking about a tube monitor?
    > Do you hear some sort of click when it goes black? - it may be a
    > protection
    > circuit. Sometimes accumulated dust does this, but most of the time some
    > big capacitors are at E.O.L.
    > A can of "compressed air" and a vacuum cleaner with soft brush should help
    > you. Afterwards you can locate the focus potentiometer and try to adjust
    > it, but that needs turning on the device and may expose you to dangerous
    > voltages.
    > Opening a tube monitor can be dangerous. I have done it myself, though.
    > First unplug it and leave it for some hours before you proceed.
    >
    >> Where is this DVI setting please?
    >>

    > Tube monitors - except maybe new professional ones - do not have the white
    > DVI socket.
    >


    It is a flat screen monitor. Samsung 910 MP Model Code MZ19FSSS/EDC

    Rajinder
    >
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 6, 2008
    #11
  12. "ian field" <> wrote in message
    news:c36Gk.4377$2...
    >
    > "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    > message news:...
    >> Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >>
    >>
    >>> Hi,
    >>>
    >>> Some times the screen goes black for a while and then returns, On other
    >>> oaccasions, I have to unplug the monitor and replug.
    >>>

    >> You are talking about a tube monitor?
    >> Do you hear some sort of click when it goes black? - it may be a
    >> protection
    >> circuit. Sometimes accumulated dust does this, but most of the time some
    >> big capacitors are at E.O.L.
    >> A can of "compressed air" and a vacuum cleaner with soft brush should
    >> help
    >> you. Afterwards you can locate the focus potentiometer and try to adjust
    >> it, but that needs turning on the device and may expose you to
    >> dangerous
    >> voltages.
    >> Opening a tube monitor can be dangerous. I have done it myself, though.
    >> First unplug it and leave it for some hours before you proceed.

    >
    > About a couple of decades ago some 'genius' at Philips decided to issue a
    > memo claiming that due to the high stability of modern SMPSUs, CRT heaters
    > should be operated at 6.15V instead of the correct 6.3V. It seems that
    > most manufacturers have been misled!
    >
    > The result of underrunning the heaters is that the cathodes emissive
    > coating becomes contaminated by the remnants of gasses left after the tube
    > has been gettered.
    >
    > If the loss of emission isn't too far gone it can be recovered by loading
    > an all white wallpaper (scan a blank sheet of printer paper and use the
    > file as wallpaper) and leave the monitor running the white screen at full
    > Bri & Cont and see whether it recovers.
    >
    > Another common cause of emission failure is a worn out electrolytic
    > capacitor after the rectifier for the heater supply - adding at least 1uF
    > low ESR non-electrolytic in parallel with the replacement will prolong its
    > life.
    >
    > Its always worth checking the heater voltage, if its less than 6.3V trace
    > the track back to the rectifier and determine whether or not its a
    > shottky-barrier type - if it is then the only possible improvement is look
    > for resistors that can be eliminated on the way to the heater.
    >
    > If the heater rectifier isn't a SB type then significant improvement can
    > be had from fitting one. It is vital to ensure that the SB rectifier's
    > reverse voltage not be exceeded! 20, 30 & 40V types are fairly common but
    > won't be adequate 60V types are more expensive and might only just do the
    > job. One possible solution is to protect the rectifier with it's own
    > snubber circuit - first off, with the original rectifier in place make a
    > peak detector with a rectifier and capacitor in series, across the
    > existing rectifier but with the peak detector rectifier pointing the other
    > way - so you can measure the peak reverse voltage. The sum of the peak
    > reverse voltage and the rectified voltage must not exceed the rated
    > voltage of the SB rectifier to be used.
    >
    > One trick to bring down the peak reverse voltage is to shunt the capacitor
    > in the previously described peak detector with a resistor - lower the
    > value until the peak voltage is damped low enough. Adding the resistor has
    > turned the peak detector into a snubber.
    >
    > SB rectifiers generally have higher junction capacitance which can cause
    > higher ripple on the rectified rail, so its a good idea to replace the
    > reservoir capacitor with a new low ESR type and better yet bolster it's
    > low ESR by adding at least 1uF non-electrolytic in parallel.


    Thank you very much for your technical advice. I shall be taking my Monitor
    to our local Computer Club and see if they can help. Do I need to take the
    Driver disc as well?

    Rajinder
    >
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 6, 2008
    #12
  13. Chaudhry.Nijjhar

    ian field Guest

    "Chaudhry.Nijjhar" <> wrote in message
    news:VzoGk.39275$2...
    >
    > "ian field" <> wrote in message
    > news:c36Gk.4377$2...
    >>
    >> "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    >> message news:...
    >>> Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>> Hi,
    >>>>
    >>>> Some times the screen goes black for a while and then returns, On
    >>>> other
    >>>> oaccasions, I have to unplug the monitor and replug.
    >>>>
    >>> You are talking about a tube monitor?
    >>> Do you hear some sort of click when it goes black? - it may be a
    >>> protection
    >>> circuit. Sometimes accumulated dust does this, but most of the time some
    >>> big capacitors are at E.O.L.
    >>> A can of "compressed air" and a vacuum cleaner with soft brush should
    >>> help
    >>> you. Afterwards you can locate the focus potentiometer and try to adjust
    >>> it, but that needs turning on the device and may expose you to
    >>> dangerous
    >>> voltages.
    >>> Opening a tube monitor can be dangerous. I have done it myself, though.
    >>> First unplug it and leave it for some hours before you proceed.

    >>
    >> About a couple of decades ago some 'genius' at Philips decided to issue a
    >> memo claiming that due to the high stability of modern SMPSUs, CRT
    >> heaters should be operated at 6.15V instead of the correct 6.3V. It seems
    >> that most manufacturers have been misled!
    >>
    >> The result of underrunning the heaters is that the cathodes emissive
    >> coating becomes contaminated by the remnants of gasses left after the
    >> tube has been gettered.
    >>
    >> If the loss of emission isn't too far gone it can be recovered by loading
    >> an all white wallpaper (scan a blank sheet of printer paper and use the
    >> file as wallpaper) and leave the monitor running the white screen at full
    >> Bri & Cont and see whether it recovers.
    >>
    >> Another common cause of emission failure is a worn out electrolytic
    >> capacitor after the rectifier for the heater supply - adding at least 1uF
    >> low ESR non-electrolytic in parallel with the replacement will prolong
    >> its life.
    >>
    >> Its always worth checking the heater voltage, if its less than 6.3V trace
    >> the track back to the rectifier and determine whether or not its a
    >> shottky-barrier type - if it is then the only possible improvement is
    >> look for resistors that can be eliminated on the way to the heater.
    >>
    >> If the heater rectifier isn't a SB type then significant improvement can
    >> be had from fitting one. It is vital to ensure that the SB rectifier's
    >> reverse voltage not be exceeded! 20, 30 & 40V types are fairly common but
    >> won't be adequate 60V types are more expensive and might only just do the
    >> job. One possible solution is to protect the rectifier with it's own
    >> snubber circuit - first off, with the original rectifier in place make a
    >> peak detector with a rectifier and capacitor in series, across the
    >> existing rectifier but with the peak detector rectifier pointing the
    >> other way - so you can measure the peak reverse voltage. The sum of the
    >> peak reverse voltage and the rectified voltage must not exceed the rated
    >> voltage of the SB rectifier to be used.
    >>
    >> One trick to bring down the peak reverse voltage is to shunt the
    >> capacitor in the previously described peak detector with a resistor -
    >> lower the value until the peak voltage is damped low enough. Adding the
    >> resistor has turned the peak detector into a snubber.
    >>
    >> SB rectifiers generally have higher junction capacitance which can cause
    >> higher ripple on the rectified rail, so its a good idea to replace the
    >> reservoir capacitor with a new low ESR type and better yet bolster it's
    >> low ESR by adding at least 1uF non-electrolytic in parallel.

    >
    > Thank you very much for your technical advice. I shall be taking my
    > Monitor to our local Computer Club and see if they can help. Do I need to
    > take the Driver disc as well?


    Operating for a while with a bright white screen is easiest to do at home
    and might save you the trouble of transporting the monitor and paying
    someone to fix it.

    If that doesn't work - any tech worth his fee should have everything needed
    to service the monitor.
     
    ian field, Oct 6, 2008
    #13
  14. Chaudhry.Nijjhar

    Basil Fawlty Guest

    Chaudhry.Nijjhar "contributed" in 24hoursupport.helpdesk:

    >
    > "ian field" <> wrote in message
    > news:c36Gk.4377$2...
    >>
    >> "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote
    >> in message news:...
    >>> Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>> Hi,
    >>>>
    >>>> Some times the screen goes black for a while and then returns, On
    >>>> other oaccasions, I have to unplug the monitor and replug.
    >>>>
    >>> You are talking about a tube monitor?
    >>> Do you hear some sort of click when it goes black? - it may be a
    >>> protection
    >>> circuit. Sometimes accumulated dust does this, but most of the time
    >>> some big capacitors are at E.O.L.
    >>> A can of "compressed air" and a vacuum cleaner with soft brush
    >>> should help
    >>> you. Afterwards you can locate the focus potentiometer and try to
    >>> adjust it, but that needs turning on the device and may expose you
    >>> to dangerous
    >>> voltages.
    >>> Opening a tube monitor can be dangerous. I have done it myself,
    >>> though. First unplug it and leave it for some hours before you
    >>> proceed.

    >>
    >> About a couple of decades ago some 'genius' at Philips decided to
    >> issue a memo claiming that due to the high stability of modern
    >> SMPSUs, CRT heaters should be operated at 6.15V instead of the
    >> correct 6.3V. It seems that most manufacturers have been misled!
    >>
    >> The result of underrunning the heaters is that the cathodes emissive
    >> coating becomes contaminated by the remnants of gasses left after the
    >> tube has been gettered.
    >>
    >> If the loss of emission isn't too far gone it can be recovered by
    >> loading an all white wallpaper (scan a blank sheet of printer paper
    >> and use the file as wallpaper) and leave the monitor running the
    >> white screen at full Bri & Cont and see whether it recovers.
    >>
    >> Another common cause of emission failure is a worn out electrolytic
    >> capacitor after the rectifier for the heater supply - adding at least
    >> 1uF low ESR non-electrolytic in parallel with the replacement will
    >> prolong its life.
    >>
    >> Its always worth checking the heater voltage, if its less than 6.3V
    >> trace the track back to the rectifier and determine whether or not
    >> its a shottky-barrier type - if it is then the only possible
    >> improvement is look for resistors that can be eliminated on the way
    >> to the heater.
    >>
    >> If the heater rectifier isn't a SB type then significant improvement
    >> can be had from fitting one. It is vital to ensure that the SB
    >> rectifier's reverse voltage not be exceeded! 20, 30 & 40V types are
    >> fairly common but won't be adequate 60V types are more expensive and
    >> might only just do the job. One possible solution is to protect the
    >> rectifier with it's own snubber circuit - first off, with the
    >> original rectifier in place make a peak detector with a rectifier and
    >> capacitor in series, across the existing rectifier but with the peak
    >> detector rectifier pointing the other way - so you can measure the
    >> peak reverse voltage. The sum of the peak reverse voltage and the
    >> rectified voltage must not exceed the rated voltage of the SB
    >> rectifier to be used.
    >>
    >> One trick to bring down the peak reverse voltage is to shunt the
    >> capacitor in the previously described peak detector with a resistor -
    >> lower the value until the peak voltage is damped low enough. Adding
    >> the resistor has turned the peak detector into a snubber.
    >>
    >> SB rectifiers generally have higher junction capacitance which can
    >> cause higher ripple on the rectified rail, so its a good idea to
    >> replace the reservoir capacitor with a new low ESR type and better
    >> yet bolster it's low ESR by adding at least 1uF non-electrolytic in
    >> parallel.

    >
    > Thank you very much for your technical advice. I shall be taking my
    > Monitor to our local Computer Club and see if they can help. Do I
    > need to take the Driver disc as well?
    >
    > Rajinder
    >>

    >
    >


    BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!

    --
    <snip>
     
    Basil Fawlty, Oct 7, 2008
    #14
  15. Chaudhry.Nijjhar

    Plato Guest

    Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >
    > I have Samsung 21" Monitor Screen but it is getting fainter. Slide bars are


    Check the brightness controll. Same thing happened to my MAG.

    --
    http://www.bootdisk.com/
     
    Plato, Oct 8, 2008
    #15
  16. "ian field" <> wrote in message
    news:aTpGk.39277$2...
    >
    > "Chaudhry.Nijjhar" <> wrote in message
    > news:VzoGk.39275$2...
    >>
    >> "ian field" <> wrote in message
    >> news:c36Gk.4377$2...
    >>>
    >>> "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    >>> message news:...
    >>>> Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>> Hi,
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Some times the screen goes black for a while and then returns, On
    >>>>> other
    >>>>> oaccasions, I have to unplug the monitor and replug.
    >>>>>
    >>>> You are talking about a tube monitor?
    >>>> Do you hear some sort of click when it goes black? - it may be a
    >>>> protection
    >>>> circuit. Sometimes accumulated dust does this, but most of the time
    >>>> some
    >>>> big capacitors are at E.O.L.
    >>>> A can of "compressed air" and a vacuum cleaner with soft brush should
    >>>> help
    >>>> you. Afterwards you can locate the focus potentiometer and try to
    >>>> adjust
    >>>> it, but that needs turning on the device and may expose you to
    >>>> dangerous
    >>>> voltages.
    >>>> Opening a tube monitor can be dangerous. I have done it myself, though.
    >>>> First unplug it and leave it for some hours before you proceed.
    >>>
    >>> About a couple of decades ago some 'genius' at Philips decided to issue
    >>> a memo claiming that due to the high stability of modern SMPSUs, CRT
    >>> heaters should be operated at 6.15V instead of the correct 6.3V. It
    >>> seems that most manufacturers have been misled!
    >>>
    >>> The result of underrunning the heaters is that the cathodes emissive
    >>> coating becomes contaminated by the remnants of gasses left after the
    >>> tube has been gettered.
    >>>
    >>> If the loss of emission isn't too far gone it can be recovered by
    >>> loading an all white wallpaper (scan a blank sheet of printer paper and
    >>> use the file as wallpaper) and leave the monitor running the white
    >>> screen at full Bri & Cont and see whether it recovers.
    >>>
    >>> Another common cause of emission failure is a worn out electrolytic
    >>> capacitor after the rectifier for the heater supply - adding at least
    >>> 1uF low ESR non-electrolytic in parallel with the replacement will
    >>> prolong its life.
    >>>
    >>> Its always worth checking the heater voltage, if its less than 6.3V
    >>> trace the track back to the rectifier and determine whether or not its a
    >>> shottky-barrier type - if it is then the only possible improvement is
    >>> look for resistors that can be eliminated on the way to the heater.
    >>>
    >>> If the heater rectifier isn't a SB type then significant improvement can
    >>> be had from fitting one. It is vital to ensure that the SB rectifier's
    >>> reverse voltage not be exceeded! 20, 30 & 40V types are fairly common
    >>> but won't be adequate 60V types are more expensive and might only just
    >>> do the job. One possible solution is to protect the rectifier with it's
    >>> own snubber circuit - first off, with the original rectifier in place
    >>> make a peak detector with a rectifier and capacitor in series, across
    >>> the existing rectifier but with the peak detector rectifier pointing the
    >>> other way - so you can measure the peak reverse voltage. The sum of the
    >>> peak reverse voltage and the rectified voltage must not exceed the rated
    >>> voltage of the SB rectifier to be used.
    >>>
    >>> One trick to bring down the peak reverse voltage is to shunt the
    >>> capacitor in the previously described peak detector with a resistor -
    >>> lower the value until the peak voltage is damped low enough. Adding the
    >>> resistor has turned the peak detector into a snubber.
    >>>
    >>> SB rectifiers generally have higher junction capacitance which can cause
    >>> higher ripple on the rectified rail, so its a good idea to replace the
    >>> reservoir capacitor with a new low ESR type and better yet bolster it's
    >>> low ESR by adding at least 1uF non-electrolytic in parallel.

    >>
    >> Thank you very much for your technical advice. I shall be taking my
    >> Monitor to our local Computer Club and see if they can help. Do I need
    >> to take the Driver disc as well?

    >
    > Operating for a while with a bright white screen is easiest to do at home
    > and might save you the trouble of transporting the monitor and paying
    > someone to fix it.
    >
    > If that doesn't work - any tech worth his fee should have everything
    > needed to service the monitor.


    Problem solved. I went to the Video Card, NVIDIA Control Panel and adjusted
    the Brightness which was 50 to 25%. It is fine now. Many thanks for your
    help.

    Rajinder
    >
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 8, 2008
    #16
  17. "Basil Fawlty" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Chaudhry.Nijjhar "contributed" in 24hoursupport.helpdesk:
    >
    >>
    >> "ian field" <> wrote in message
    >> news:c36Gk.4377$2...
    >>>
    >>> "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote
    >>> in message news:...
    >>>> Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>> Hi,
    >>>>>
    >>>>> Some times the screen goes black for a while and then returns, On
    >>>>> other oaccasions, I have to unplug the monitor and replug.
    >>>>>
    >>>> You are talking about a tube monitor?
    >>>> Do you hear some sort of click when it goes black? - it may be a
    >>>> protection
    >>>> circuit. Sometimes accumulated dust does this, but most of the time
    >>>> some big capacitors are at E.O.L.
    >>>> A can of "compressed air" and a vacuum cleaner with soft brush
    >>>> should help
    >>>> you. Afterwards you can locate the focus potentiometer and try to
    >>>> adjust it, but that needs turning on the device and may expose you
    >>>> to dangerous
    >>>> voltages.
    >>>> Opening a tube monitor can be dangerous. I have done it myself,
    >>>> though. First unplug it and leave it for some hours before you
    >>>> proceed.
    >>>
    >>> About a couple of decades ago some 'genius' at Philips decided to
    >>> issue a memo claiming that due to the high stability of modern
    >>> SMPSUs, CRT heaters should be operated at 6.15V instead of the
    >>> correct 6.3V. It seems that most manufacturers have been misled!
    >>>
    >>> The result of underrunning the heaters is that the cathodes emissive
    >>> coating becomes contaminated by the remnants of gasses left after the
    >>> tube has been gettered.
    >>>
    >>> If the loss of emission isn't too far gone it can be recovered by
    >>> loading an all white wallpaper (scan a blank sheet of printer paper
    >>> and use the file as wallpaper) and leave the monitor running the
    >>> white screen at full Bri & Cont and see whether it recovers.
    >>>
    >>> Another common cause of emission failure is a worn out electrolytic
    >>> capacitor after the rectifier for the heater supply - adding at least
    >>> 1uF low ESR non-electrolytic in parallel with the replacement will
    >>> prolong its life.
    >>>
    >>> Its always worth checking the heater voltage, if its less than 6.3V
    >>> trace the track back to the rectifier and determine whether or not
    >>> its a shottky-barrier type - if it is then the only possible
    >>> improvement is look for resistors that can be eliminated on the way
    >>> to the heater.
    >>>
    >>> If the heater rectifier isn't a SB type then significant improvement
    >>> can be had from fitting one. It is vital to ensure that the SB
    >>> rectifier's reverse voltage not be exceeded! 20, 30 & 40V types are
    >>> fairly common but won't be adequate 60V types are more expensive and
    >>> might only just do the job. One possible solution is to protect the
    >>> rectifier with it's own snubber circuit - first off, with the
    >>> original rectifier in place make a peak detector with a rectifier and
    >>> capacitor in series, across the existing rectifier but with the peak
    >>> detector rectifier pointing the other way - so you can measure the
    >>> peak reverse voltage. The sum of the peak reverse voltage and the
    >>> rectified voltage must not exceed the rated voltage of the SB
    >>> rectifier to be used.
    >>>
    >>> One trick to bring down the peak reverse voltage is to shunt the
    >>> capacitor in the previously described peak detector with a resistor -
    >>> lower the value until the peak voltage is damped low enough. Adding
    >>> the resistor has turned the peak detector into a snubber.
    >>>
    >>> SB rectifiers generally have higher junction capacitance which can
    >>> cause higher ripple on the rectified rail, so its a good idea to
    >>> replace the reservoir capacitor with a new low ESR type and better
    >>> yet bolster it's low ESR by adding at least 1uF non-electrolytic in
    >>> parallel.

    >>
    >> Thank you very much for your technical advice. I shall be taking my
    >> Monitor to our local Computer Club and see if they can help. Do I
    >> need to take the Driver disc as well?
    >>
    >> Rajinder
    >>>

    >>
    >>

    >
    > BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!
    >
    > --
    > <snip>
    >

    Problem solved. I went to the Video Card, NVIDIA Control Panel and adjusted
    the Brightness which was 50 to 25%. It is fine now. Many thanks for your
    help.

    Rajinder
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 8, 2008
    #17
  18. "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    message news:...
    > Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >
    >>
    >> "wisdomkiller & pain" <> wrote in
    >> message news:...
    >>> Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:

    >
    >>> Opening a tube monitor can be dangerous. I have done it myself, though.
    >>> First unplug it and leave it for some hours before you proceed.
    >>>
    >>>> Where is this DVI setting please?
    >>>>
    >>> Tube monitors - except maybe new professional ones - do not have the
    >>> white DVI socket.
    >>>

    >>
    >> It is a flat screen monitor. Samsung 910 MP Model Code MZ19FSSS/EDC
    >>

    > Late but finally said the truth.
    > Well, forget about the high voltages - but forget about opening the TFT
    > case, you cannot adjust anything there.
    > Now, sometimes it helps to loose the vga cable screws a bit and do some
    > gentle "percussive maintainence" on the plugs/sockets both ends.
    > Afterwards, press the auto-adjust button on the monitor.
    > Unfortunately the monitor has a tv tuner but no dvi connector, so forget
    > about that part as well.
    > Just forgot ... how long after end of warranty?

    Problem solved. I went to the Video Card, NVIDIA Control Panel and adjusted
    the Brightness which was 50 to 25%. It is fine now. Many thanks for your
    help.

    Rajinder
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 8, 2008
    #18
  19. "Plato" <|@|.|> wrote in message
    news:48ec3f2a$0$271$...
    > Chaudhry.Nijjhar wrote:
    >>
    >> I have Samsung 21" Monitor Screen but it is getting fainter. Slide bars
    >> are

    >
    > Check the brightness controll. Same thing happened to my MAG.
    >
    > --
    > http://www.bootdisk.com/
    >
    >


    Problem solved. I went to the Video Card, NVIDIA Control Panel and adjusted
    the Brightness which was 50 to 25%. It is fine now. Many thanks for your
    help.

    Rajinder
     
    Chaudhry.Nijjhar, Oct 8, 2008
    #19
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