Light meter/dslr

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by tony cooper, Jun 13, 2008.

  1. tony cooper

    tony cooper Guest

    Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?

    I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    set a combination from that reading.

    What are others doing?



    --
    Tony Cooper - Orlando, Florida
    tony cooper, Jun 13, 2008
    #1
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  2. tony cooper

    ASAAR Guest

    On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 22:28:57 -0400, tony cooper wrote:

    > I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    > Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    > set a combination from that reading.
    >
    > What are others doing?


    Pretty much the same, but as the shots generally call for an
    approximate shutter speed or aperture, instead of starting with
    Automatic (P) mode, I'll adjust one of the settings in S or A mode
    and see what the camera suggests for the other exposure setting.

    I've only used cameras that when switched to M mode, revert to the
    last M settings, a nice feature to add (unless I've not noticed it
    in the cameras I've used) would be a way to easily transfer P/A/S
    mode exposure settings to M mode. One way might be to Dial up M
    mode while the shutter is half pressed.
    ASAAR, Jun 13, 2008
    #2
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  3. tony cooper

    Paul Furman Guest

    Bill H wrote:
    > tony cooper wrote:
    >> Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?
    >>
    >> I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    >> Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    >> set a combination from that reading.
    >>
    >> What are others doing?

    >
    > On my Nikon D40 I generally (with outdoors lighting, manual) use the bar
    > graph in the view finder to set my initial shot.


    That's how I learned on the Canon AE1. Back then it seemed amazingly
    super automated and really it is quite easy on a DSLR. Matrix metering
    is too clever if you are in the frame of mind to go more bare bones than
    this, it's always making some assumptions and those are often good but
    when they aren't it's frustrating. Center weighted & spot are consistent.

    --
    Paul Furman
    www.edgehill.net
    www.baynatives.com

    all google groups messages filtered due to spam
    Paul Furman, Jun 13, 2008
    #3
  4. In rec.photo.digital tony cooper <> wrote:
    > Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?


    > I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    > Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    > set a combination from that reading.


    > What are others doing?


    I mostly use P mode since what it does is start with the camera's
    preferred auto settings and adjusts those by whatever adjustments my
    last use of the P-mode imposed. Within easy reach of my thumb in
    P-mode are two adjusting wheels. One allows me to change exposure
    value with the camera choosing how aperture and shutter are
    adjusted. The other allows me to run through the full range of
    standard shutter speeds and apertures which give that EV. I say
    "standard" because it excludes certain extreme adjustments, e.g, those
    which need a tripod and call into play special noise reduction
    measures. For those I have to go to manual mode.

    So unless I'm doing something unusually extreme, P-mode gives me all
    the control of manual mode with auto adapting to changing light
    conditions. I find that usually gets me the settings I want much
    faster than manual mode would.

    But not all cameras have two such conveniently adjustable wheels in
    P-mode.

    --
    Chris Malcolm DoD #205
    IPAB, Informatics, JCMB, King's Buildings, Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK
    [http://www.dai.ed.ac.uk/homes/cam/]
    Chris Malcolm, Jun 13, 2008
    #4
  5. tony cooper

    dj_nme Guest

    Paul Furman wrote:
    > Bill H wrote:
    >> tony cooper wrote:
    >>> Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?
    >>>
    >>> I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    >>> Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    >>> set a combination from that reading.
    >>>
    >>> What are others doing?

    >>
    >> On my Nikon D40 I generally (with outdoors lighting, manual) use the
    >> bar graph in the view finder to set my initial shot.

    >
    > That's how I learned on the Canon AE1. Back then it seemed amazingly
    > super automated and really it is quite easy on a DSLR. Matrix metering
    > is too clever if you are in the frame of mind to go more bare bones than
    > this, it's always making some assumptions and those are often good but
    > when they aren't it's frustrating. Centre weighted & spot are consistent.
    >


    Have you got a Katzeye screen or similar?
    I've found on a Pentax *ist-Ds that it over-exposes by 0.7 stops with
    centre spot metering and is accurate with centre weighted.
    My K10D seems to be able to spot meter properly even with a Katzeye
    installed and I don't know why.
    dj_nme, Jun 13, 2008
    #5
  6. tony cooper

    tony cooper Guest

    On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 07:35:11 -0500, "Wilson" <>
    wrote:

    >
    >"tony cooper" <> wrote in message
    >news:eek:...
    >> Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?
    >>
    >> I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    >> Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    >> set a combination from that reading.
    >>
    >> What are others doing?
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >> --

    >I bought a D40 body to use with an inherited collection of fast prime Nikon
    >lens from the late sixties and seventies. They fit the D40 just fine, but
    >the camera's exposure meter won't work with these lens. I thought I would
    >use a hand held meter to get the initial exposure but that turned out the be
    >more trouble than it was worth for me.
    >
    >I start by setting either the aperture or shutter speed I need and guess at
    >its reciprocal. Then I check the histogram and highlight blinkie on the
    >monitor and fine tune the exposure accordingly. It usually doesn't take
    >more than a test shot or two to get it right. If I'm making several
    >exposures in the same light I use the last setting and adjust from it if
    >needed. I shoot in Raw so I get a bit of extra latitude there. The process
    >is surprisingly easy, it's as quick as shooting in manual, I feel engaged
    >in the process, and I very much like the results I get with those fast,
    >sharp, old SLR lens.
    >
    >It is kind of funny though. I occasionally shoot black & white with an SLR
    >and after after making an exposure I frequently catch myself looking at the
    >back of the camera for a histogram that isn't there.


    I don't find much need for a hand-held light meter on routine outdoor
    shots, but I do quite a bit of table-top photography under external
    lighting. Because I do several shots of several objects, I want
    consistent results. So, I set my white balance with a gray card and
    use the Manual settings.

    I am thinking of buying a used Gossen Digital Pro F on eBay to measure
    incident light for this purpose. Usually I'll take a test series with
    various combinations of speed/f-stop/iso and see which works best for
    the subject. I thought perhaps a light meter would help guide me.


    --
    Tony Cooper - Orlando, Florida
    tony cooper, Jun 13, 2008
    #6
  7. tony cooper

    tony cooper Guest

    On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 09:24:26 -0500, "Wilson" <>
    wrote:

    >
    >"tony cooper" <> wrote in message
    >news:...
    >> On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 07:35:11 -0500, "Wilson" <>
    >> wrote:
    >>
    >>>
    >>>"tony cooper" <> wrote in message
    >>>news:eek:...
    >>>> Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?
    >>>>
    >>>> I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    >>>> Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    >>>> set a combination from that reading.
    >>>>
    >>>> What are others doing?
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>> --

    >.
    >>
    >> I don't find much need for a hand-held light meter on routine outdoor
    >> shots, but I do quite a bit of table-top photography under external
    >> lighting. Because I do several shots of several objects, I want
    >> consistent results. So, I set my white balance with a gray card and
    >> use the Manual settings.
    >>
    >> I am thinking of buying a used Gossen Digital Pro F on eBay to measure
    >> incident light for this purpose. Usually I'll take a test series with
    >> various combinations of speed/f-stop/iso and see which works best for
    >> the subject. I thought perhaps a light meter would help guide me.
    >>
    >>
    >> --

    >
    >I shoot outdoors in natural light so I don't have experience with what you
    >are doing. I'm wondering if you are shooting in RAW and using something
    >like Adobe Camera Raw for post processing.


    No, I don't. I hesitate to mention that here because not shooting RAW
    seems to be as laughable in photography groups as wearing a detachable
    celluloid collar. I use a Nikon D40 and Adobe Photoshop 7.0, and that
    is not compatible with RAW or NEF. I'm too cheap to upgrade or to buy
    the Nikon's RAW converter. Actually, I'm quite comfortable with PS7
    and see no need to upgrade.




    --
    Tony Cooper - Orlando, Florida
    tony cooper, Jun 13, 2008
    #7
  8. tony cooper

    tony cooper Guest

    On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 13:11:38 -0500, "Wilson" <>
    wrote:

    >
    >By the way, if you are a PC user and you get a new computer with Vista you
    >won't be able to install the PS7. I found that out when I tried to install
    >CS on a Vista OS.


    I'm quite aware of that. When I do need a new computer, I'll buy a
    Dell for this reason. Dell still offers Windows XP at no upcharge,
    although they do run "specials" on boxes with only Vista.

    I also have Adobe Elements 5.0, but I seldom use it. I bought it
    because my daughter started out with it, and I wanted it so I could
    teach her certain techniques. However, I'm so comfortable with PS7
    that I seldom open E5.


    --
    Tony Cooper - Orlando, Florida
    tony cooper, Jun 13, 2008
    #8
  9. tony cooper

    Burgerman Guest

    "tony cooper" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 13:11:38 -0500, "Wilson" <>
    > wrote:
    >
    >>
    >>By the way, if you are a PC user and you get a new computer with Vista you
    >>won't be able to install the PS7. I found that out when I tried to
    >>install
    >>CS on a Vista OS.

    >
    > I'm quite aware of that. When I do need a new computer, I'll buy a
    > Dell for this reason. Dell still offers Windows XP at no upcharge,
    > although they do run "specials" on boxes with only Vista.
    >
    > I also have Adobe Elements 5.0, but I seldom use it. I bought it
    > because my daughter started out with it, and I wanted it so I could
    > teach her certain techniques. However, I'm so comfortable with PS7
    > that I seldom open E5.
    >
    >
    > --
    > Tony Cooper - Orlando, Florida



    Working OK here Vista 64. At least CS3 is.
    Burgerman, Jun 13, 2008
    #9
  10. tony cooper

    Peter Guest

    "Wilson" <> wrote in message
    news:p...
    >
    > "tony cooper" <> wrote in message
    > news:eek:...
    >> Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?
    >>
    >> I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    >> Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    >> set a combination from that reading.
    >>
    >> What are others doing?
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >> --

    > I bought a D40 body to use with an inherited collection of fast prime
    > Nikon lens from the late sixties and seventies. They fit the D40 just
    > fine, but the camera's exposure meter won't work with these lens. I
    > thought I would use a hand held meter to get the initial exposure but that
    > turned out the be more trouble than it was worth for me.
    >
    > I start by setting either the aperture or shutter speed I need and guess
    > at its reciprocal. Then I check the histogram and highlight blinkie on
    > the monitor and fine tune the exposure accordingly. It usually doesn't
    > take more than a test shot or two to get it right. If I'm making several
    > exposures in the same light I use the last setting and adjust from it if
    > needed. I shoot in Raw so I get a bit of extra latitude there. The
    > process is surprisingly easy, it's as quick as shooting in manual, I feel
    > engaged in the process, and I very much like the results I get with those
    > fast, sharp, old SLR lens.
    >


    The exposure on D200 works great with my very old lenses. 200 macro, 75-150
    E and 50mm f1.4.

    I tried the 200 macro on a friend's D100 and that worked fine, too.
    You might want to consider a used D100 or D200.

    > It is kind of funny though. I occasionally shoot black & white with an
    > SLR and after after making an exposure I frequently catch myself looking
    > at the back of the camera for a histogram that isn't there.


    LOL, I've done the very same thing and felt awfully dumb.


    --
    Peter
    Peter, Jun 13, 2008
    #10
  11. tony cooper <> writes:
    >Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?


    >I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    >Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    >set a combination from that reading.


    >What are others doing?


    I'll occasionally use an external spotmeter. That's particularly
    useful with cameras (e.g. my XTi/400D) which do not include a
    small-angle spotmeter mode internally.

    Dave
    Dave Martindale, Jun 13, 2008
    #11
  12. tony cooper

    No Poster Guest

    "Wilson" <> wrote in
    news::

    >
    > "tony cooper" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    >> On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 09:24:26 -0500, "Wilson" <>
    >> wrote:
    >>
    >>>
    >>>"tony cooper" <> wrote in message
    >>>news:...
    >>>> On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 07:35:11 -0500, "Wilson"
    >>>> <> wrote:
    >>>>
    >>>>>
    >>>>>"tony cooper" <> wrote in message
    >>>>>news:eek:...
    >>>>>> Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>> I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally
    >>>>>> switch to Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and
    >>>>>> then go Manual and set a combination from that reading.
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>> What are others doing?
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>>
    >>>>>> --
    >>>.
    >>>>
    >>>> I don't find much need for a hand-held light meter on routine
    >>>> outdoor shots, but I do quite a bit of table-top photography under
    >>>> external lighting. Because I do several shots of several objects,
    >>>> I want consistent results. So, I set my white balance with a gray
    >>>> card and use the Manual settings.
    >>>>
    >>>> I am thinking of buying a used Gossen Digital Pro F on eBay to
    >>>> measure incident light for this purpose. Usually I'll take a test
    >>>> series with various combinations of speed/f-stop/iso and see which
    >>>> works best for the subject. I thought perhaps a light meter would
    >>>> help guide me.
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>> --
    >>>
    >>>I shoot outdoors in natural light so I don't have experience with
    >>>what you are doing. I'm wondering if you are shooting in RAW and
    >>>using something like Adobe Camera Raw for post processing.

    >>
    >> No, I don't. I hesitate to mention that here because not shooting
    >> RAW seems to be as laughable in photography groups as wearing a
    >> detachable celluloid collar. I use a Nikon D40 and Adobe Photoshop
    >> 7.0, and that is not compatible with RAW or NEF. I'm too cheap to
    >> upgrade or to buy the Nikon's RAW converter. Actually, I'm quite
    >> comfortable with PS7 and see no need to upgrade.
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >> --

    >
    > I was like that for the longest time. I have Photoshop CS. My
    > photographer girlfriend made off with the second license, so when I
    > got a new laptop I bought & installed Photoshop Elements 6 that I
    > bought for $50 on sale at Costco. It has all the tools and features I
    > used in CS and it's easer to use. Plus it also has Adobe Camera Raw.
    > To make a long story short I only shoot in RAW and would never go
    > back to shooting jpgs. I like what I can do in Camera Raw *a lot*.
    > Microsoft has NEF readers for My Pictures available in their download
    > bin. With that said I do realize your needs may be completely met by
    > what you are doing now.
    >
    > I was quite comfortable with CS too, but I rarely use it now.
    >
    > By the way, if you are a PC user and you get a new computer with Vista
    > you won't be able to install the PS7. I found that out when I tried
    > to install CS on a Vista OS.
    >
    >


    Oh god...Vista...
    No Poster, Jun 14, 2008
    #12
  13. tony cooper

    No Poster Guest

    "Wilson" <> wrote in
    news::

    >
    > "Peter" <> wrote in message
    > news:4852da1e$0$13888$-secrets.com...
    >> "Wilson" <> wrote in message
    >> news:p...
    >>>>
    >>>> --
    >>> I bought a D40 body to use with an inherited collection of fast
    >>> prime Nikon lens from the late sixties and seventies. They fit the
    >>> D40 just fine, but the camera's exposure meter won't work with these
    >>> lens. I thought I would use a hand held meter to get the initial
    >>> exposure but that turned out the be more trouble than it was worth
    >>> for me.
    >>>
    >>> I start by setting either the aperture or shutter speed I need and
    >>> guess at its reciprocal. Then I check the histogram and highlight
    >>> blinkie on the monitor and fine tune the exposure accordingly. It
    >>> usually doesn't take more than a test shot or two to get it right.
    >>> If I'm making several exposures in the same light I use the last
    >>> setting and adjust from it if needed. I shoot in Raw so I get a bit
    >>> of extra latitude there. The process is surprisingly easy, it's as
    >>> quick as shooting in manual, I feel engaged in the process, and I
    >>> very much like the results I get with those fast, sharp, old SLR
    >>> lens.
    >>>

    >>
    >> The exposure on D200 works great with my very old lenses. 200 macro,
    >> 75-150 E and 50mm f1.4.
    >>
    >> I tried the 200 macro on a friend's D100 and that worked fine, too.
    >> You might want to consider a used D100 or D200.

    >
    >
    >
    > Yes the exposure meter on the D200, which I understand to be
    > excellent, is supposed to work with the old lens. I'm thinking maybe
    > someone told me the meter will work only in the center weighted mode
    > on the D200 and the old lens. I was never clear whether this is true
    > or why it would be true. Anyway I'm working my way to a D200 now that
    > the new D300 has made it a totally obsolete block of magnesium (I
    > wish). Last time I checked the local price is $1200 for the body. I
    > need for it to become just a tad more obsolete. By comparison I paid
    > $350 for the D40 body which I find to be a delightful handling little
    > camera. And I really don't need an exposure meter those old
    > lens......wait I'm talking myself out out the D200 again.....got to
    > stop doing that.
    >
    >


    Would the D80 power those lenses?
    No Poster, Jun 14, 2008
    #13
  14. tony cooper

    Peter Guest

    "No Poster" <> wrote in message
    news:Xns9ABCD88089731NoPoster@192.168.1.1...
    > "Wilson" <> wrote in
    > news::
    >
    >>
    >> "Peter" <> wrote in message
    >> news:4852da1e$0$13888$-secrets.com...
    >>> "Wilson" <> wrote in message
    >>> news:p...
    >>>>>
    >>>>> --
    >>>> I bought a D40 body to use with an inherited collection of fast
    >>>> prime Nikon lens from the late sixties and seventies. They fit the
    >>>> D40 just fine, but the camera's exposure meter won't work with these
    >>>> lens. I thought I would use a hand held meter to get the initial
    >>>> exposure but that turned out the be more trouble than it was worth
    >>>> for me.
    >>>>
    >>>> I start by setting either the aperture or shutter speed I need and
    >>>> guess at its reciprocal. Then I check the histogram and highlight
    >>>> blinkie on the monitor and fine tune the exposure accordingly. It
    >>>> usually doesn't take more than a test shot or two to get it right.
    >>>> If I'm making several exposures in the same light I use the last
    >>>> setting and adjust from it if needed. I shoot in Raw so I get a bit
    >>>> of extra latitude there. The process is surprisingly easy, it's as
    >>>> quick as shooting in manual, I feel engaged in the process, and I
    >>>> very much like the results I get with those fast, sharp, old SLR
    >>>> lens.
    >>>>
    >>>
    >>> The exposure on D200 works great with my very old lenses. 200 macro,
    >>> 75-150 E and 50mm f1.4.
    >>>
    >>> I tried the 200 macro on a friend's D100 and that worked fine, too.
    >>> You might want to consider a used D100 or D200.

    >>
    >>
    >>
    >> Yes the exposure meter on the D200, which I understand to be
    >> excellent, is supposed to work with the old lens. I'm thinking maybe
    >> someone told me the meter will work only in the center weighted mode
    >> on the D200 and the old lens. I was never clear whether this is true
    >> or why it would be true. Anyway I'm working my way to a D200 now that
    >> the new D300 has made it a totally obsolete block of magnesium (I
    >> wish). Last time I checked the local price is $1200 for the body. I
    >> need for it to become just a tad more obsolete. By comparison I paid
    >> $350 for the D40 body which I find to be a delightful handling little
    >> camera. And I really don't need an exposure meter those old
    >> lens......wait I'm talking myself out out the D200 again.....got to
    >> stop doing that.
    >>
    >>

    >
    > Would the D80 power those lenses?



    I know for a fact that the D70 does not. Haven't tried it on a D80, but you
    might want to give it a try.

    --
    Peter
    Peter, Jun 14, 2008
    #14
  15. tony cooper

    tony cooper Guest

    On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 22:52:59 +0200, Alfred Molon
    <> wrote:

    >In article <>, tony cooper
    >says...
    >> Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?
    >>
    >> I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    >> Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    >> set a combination from that reading.
    >>
    >> What are others doing?

    >
    >If you have live preview a light meter is not necessary, because the
    >camera becomes the light meter.
    >
    >Just set it to live preview and use the histogram or the clipped
    >highlights/shadows warning system to adjust the exposure.


    Note that I have a Nikon D40. No live preview.



    --
    Tony Cooper - Orlando, Florida
    tony cooper, Jun 15, 2008
    #15
  16. tony cooper

    Paul Furman Guest

    dj_nme wrote:
    > Paul Furman wrote:
    >> Bill H wrote:
    >>> tony cooper wrote:
    >>>> Does anyone use a light meter with their DSLR?
    >>>>
    >>>> I can't find my old Gossen from my 35mm days, so I generally switch to
    >>>> Automatic on my Nikon D40, look at the setting, and then go Manual and
    >>>> set a combination from that reading.
    >>>>
    >>>> What are others doing?
    >>>
    >>> On my Nikon D40 I generally (with outdoors lighting, manual) use the
    >>> bar graph in the view finder to set my initial shot.

    >>
    >> That's how I learned on the Canon AE1. Back then it seemed amazingly
    >> super automated and really it is quite easy on a DSLR. Matrix metering
    >> is too clever if you are in the frame of mind to go more bare bones
    >> than this, it's always making some assumptions and those are often
    >> good but when they aren't it's frustrating. Centre weighted & spot are
    >> consistent.

    >
    > Have you got a Katzeye screen or similar?
    > I've found on a Pentax *ist-Ds that it over-exposes by 0.7 stops with
    > centre spot metering and is accurate with centre weighted.
    > My K10D seems to be able to spot meter properly even with a Katzeye
    > installed and I don't know why.


    I have a Katzeye screen but haven't touched the spot meter since I got
    it. I almost always use matrix aperture priority or manual if it tries
    to get clever but I've played with it other ways. I have one shift/tilt
    lens that needs to be metered straight, then tilted or shifted, but
    still the matrix is normally fine in manual. The OP might appreciate
    center or spot more than me :) I'm actually thinking I won't get
    another split focus screen just because I find myself looking at the
    'ground glass' (plastic) more often.

    --
    Paul Furman
    www.edgehill.net
    www.baynatives.com

    all google groups messages filtered due to spam
    Paul Furman, Jun 15, 2008
    #16
  17. tony cooper

    Paul Furman Guest

    Wilson wrote:
    >
    > "Burgerman" <> wrote in message
    > news:jzz4k.231426$2...
    >> "tony cooper" <> wrote in message
    >> news:...
    >>> On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 13:11:38 -0500, "Wilson" <>
    >>> wrote:
    >>>
    >>>>
    >>>> By the way, if you are a PC user and you get a new computer with
    >>>> Vista you
    >>>> won't be able to install the PS7. I found that out when I tried to
    >>>> install
    >>>> CS on a Vista OS.
    >>>
    >>> I'm quite aware of that. When I do need a new computer, I'll buy a
    >>> Dell for this reason. Dell still offers Windows XP at no upcharge,
    >>> although they do run "specials" on boxes with only Vista.
    >>>
    >>> I also have Adobe Elements 5.0, but I seldom use it. I bought it
    >>> because my daughter started out with it, and I wanted it so I could
    >>> teach her certain techniques. However, I'm so comfortable with PS7
    >>> that I seldom open E5.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>> --
    >>> Tony Cooper - Orlando, Florida

    >>
    >>
    >> Working OK here Vista 64. At least CS3 is.

    >
    > I believe Adobe told me CS2 and onward will work with Vista. It's CS
    > (PS8) and earlier versions that won't work with Vista. An upgrade has
    > to be purchased for them to be installed on Vista.


    CS(1) works fine on Vista for me.

    --
    Paul Furman
    www.edgehill.net
    www.baynatives.com

    all google groups messages filtered due to spam
    Paul Furman, Jun 15, 2008
    #17
  18. tony cooper

    Paul Furman Guest

    No Poster wrote:
    > Wilson wrote
    >> Peter wrote
    >>> Wilson wrote
    >>>>> --
    >>>> I bought a D40 body to use with an inherited collection of fast
    >>>> prime Nikon lens from the late sixties and seventies. They fit the
    >>>> D40 just fine, but the camera's exposure meter won't work with these
    >>>> lens. I thought I would use a hand held meter to get the initial
    >>>> exposure but that turned out the be more trouble than it was worth
    >>>> for me.
    >>>>
    >>>> I start by setting either the aperture or shutter speed I need and
    >>>> guess at its reciprocal. Then I check the histogram and highlight
    >>>> blinkie on the monitor and fine tune the exposure accordingly. It
    >>>> usually doesn't take more than a test shot or two to get it right.
    >>>> If I'm making several exposures in the same light I use the last
    >>>> setting and adjust from it if needed. I shoot in Raw so I get a bit
    >>>> of extra latitude there. The process is surprisingly easy, it's as
    >>>> quick as shooting in manual, I feel engaged in the process, and I
    >>>> very much like the results I get with those fast, sharp, old SLR
    >>>> lens.
    >>>>
    >>> The exposure on D200 works great with my very old lenses. 200 macro,
    >>> 75-150 E and 50mm f1.4.
    >>>
    >>> I tried the 200 macro on a friend's D100 and that worked fine, too.
    >>> You might want to consider a used D100 or D200.

    >>
    >> Yes the exposure meter on the D200, which I understand to be
    >> excellent, is supposed to work with the old lens. I'm thinking maybe
    >> someone told me the meter will work only in the center weighted mode
    >> on the D200 and the old lens. I was never clear whether this is true
    >> or why it would be true. Anyway I'm working my way to a D200 now that
    >> the new D300 has made it a totally obsolete block of magnesium (I
    >> wish). Last time I checked the local price is $1200 for the body. I
    >> need for it to become just a tad more obsolete. By comparison I paid
    >> $350 for the D40 body which I find to be a delightful handling little
    >> camera. And I really don't need an exposure meter those old
    >> lens......wait I'm talking myself out out the D200 again.....got to
    >> stop doing that.

    >
    > Would the D80 power those lenses?


    I'm pretty sure the D80 is the same as a D70 & D50 in that regard. Same
    as the D100 I believe, manual lenses won't meter but all AF lenses work
    fully... where they don't AF but do meter on a D40/D60. Manual with no
    metering isn't bad on digital.

    --
    Paul Furman
    www.edgehill.net
    www.baynatives.com

    all google groups messages filtered due to spam
    Paul Furman, Jun 15, 2008
    #18
  19. tony cooper

    Hugh_C Guest

    In article <48533660$0$13867$-secrets.com>,
    "Peter" <> wrote:


    > >
    > > Would the D80 power those lenses?

    >
    >
    > I know for a fact that the D70 does not. Haven't tried it on a D80, but you
    > might want to give it a try.




    there's a matrix here which makes some sense of lens issues ...

    <http://www.bythom.com/lensacronyms.htm>

    --
    http://www.intercuts.com/weblog/
    Hugh_C, Jun 22, 2008
    #19
  20. No Poster <> wrote:

    Dear No

    >Would the D80 power those lenses?


    Please define "power" and "those".

    For autofocus to work the lens has to be at least AF (surprise,
    surprise).

    For metering to work the lens has to be at least AI-P (introduced '88).
    Most older Non-AI-P lenses can be converted to AI-P mode.

    Lenses without any aperture index (aka pre-AI lenses, before ~'77)
    should not be mounted on the D80 without modification because it could
    damage the body or the lens.

    A good explanation of the nitty-gritty details is availabe at
    http://bythom.com/lensacronyms.htm

    jue
    Jürgen Exner, Jun 22, 2008
    #20
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