How to change spark plugs on Ford Contour V6?

Discussion in 'Computer Support' started by Jian, Jan 21, 2004.

  1. Jian

    Jian Guest

    I want to change the spark plugs on Contour (98 V6).
    People and book say that the plugs might break in
    the hole. I want to save the money (dealer wants $260 labor
    only to change plugs and wires).

    I do some repairs all the time but never changed plugs.
    The 3 in front seems easy but the rear 3 seems hard.
    I have 3/8" wench and spark socket.

    How to remove them safely? How to reach the rear 3
    in right way? What should I care about?

    Thanks in advance.

    Jian
    Jian, Jan 21, 2004
    #1
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  2. Jian

    Martik Guest

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  3. Jian

    -= Hawk =- Guest

    -= Hawk =-, Jan 21, 2004
    #3
  4. Jian

    Martik Guest

    On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:59:40 +0000, -= Hawk =- wrote:

    > On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:47:02 GMT, Martik <> scribbled:
    >
    >>http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...rouble&Number=502417&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1

    >
    > Damn, it was so much easier with my '68 Toronado... climb up on
    > the fender, put your feet on the frame and your beer on the
    > air cleaner, invite friends, there's room.


    I recall my 63 Imperial was similar, but then I can change my 90 Integra
    plugs in <10 mins. The alternator removal that requires an axle re-re
    makes up for it though.
    Martik, Jan 21, 2004
    #4
  5. Jian

    -= Hawk =- Guest

    On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:24:01 GMT, Martik <> scribbled:

    >On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:59:40 +0000, -= Hawk =- wrote:
    >
    >> On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:47:02 GMT, Martik <> scribbled:
    >>
    >>>http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...rouble&Number=502417&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1

    >>
    >> Damn, it was so much easier with my '68 Toronado... climb up on
    >> the fender, put your feet on the frame and your beer on the
    >> air cleaner, invite friends, there's room.

    >
    >I recall my 63 Imperial was similar, but then I can change my 90 Integra
    >plugs in <10 mins. The alternator removal that requires an axle re-re
    >makes up for it though.


    My folks have an older Cutlass Calais and you literally have
    to drop one of the motor mounts to get at the back plugs.
    Hell, just look under the hood of any of the new B'mers or
    Mercedes, they don't even look like engines anymore.

    --
    'What Profiteth It A Kingdom If The Oxen Be Deflated?'
    Riddles II, v3
    - T. Pratchett
    -= Hawk =-, Jan 21, 2004
    #5
  6. Jian

    Sano Guest

    - -= Hawk =- <> - spluttered in
    news:6ibs0013qotcekalf81qo3ff8aqlsfjtnd@news-server:

    > On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:24:01 GMT, Martik <>
    > scribbled:
    >
    >>On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:59:40 +0000, -= Hawk =- wrote:
    >>
    >>> On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:47:02 GMT, Martik <>
    >>> scribbled:
    >>>
    >>>>http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=troubl
    >>>>e&Number=502417&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1
    >>>
    >>> Damn, it was so much easier with my '68 Toronado... climb up on
    >>> the fender, put your feet on the frame and your beer on the
    >>> air cleaner, invite friends, there's room.

    >>
    >>I recall my 63 Imperial was similar, but then I can change my 90
    >>Integra plugs in <10 mins. The alternator removal that requires an
    >>axle re-re makes up for it though.

    >
    > My folks have an older Cutlass Calais and you literally have
    > to drop one of the motor mounts to get at the back plugs.
    > Hell, just look under the hood of any of the new B'mers or
    > Mercedes, they don't even look like engines anymore.


    Just break both hands, you'll get 'em in there. At least that's my line.

    I just changed a set on a 96 Dodg PU, broke two off. Plow truck.

    The passenger side was easy. The one under the power brake booster was
    about 6 hours of thinking and trying and about 20 minutes to actually get
    out.

    Some customers are solid gold too. He paid without even batting an eye.
    Ahhhhhhhh. Weelll I did tell him it was going to be a big bill first.

    --
    "The true man wants two things: danger and play.
    For that reason he wants woman, as the most
    dangerous plaything." - Friedrich Nietzsche
    Sano, Jan 21, 2004
    #6
  7. Jian

    Joe Guest

    Start with the motor warm, not hot enough to burn your hands, but not stone
    cold. Don't start with a lot of force. Try to loosen, if it does not
    break loose, try to tighten. Go back and forth until the plug turns
    slightly in either direction, then unscrew all the way out. Use the propper
    tools, dont round anything off or break anything. Squirting WD-40 on the
    plugs to clean the rust and dirt off is not recommended.
    Joe, Jan 21, 2004
    #7
  8. On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:47:24 GMT, -= Hawk =-
    <> wrote:

    >My folks have an older Cutlass Calais and you literally have
    >to drop one of the motor mounts to get at the back plugs.
    >Hell, just look under the hood of any of the new B'mers or
    >Mercedes, they don't even look like engines anymore.

    I'm trying to figure out how the plugs could break inside the hole....
    What are the plugs made out of on the Cutlass? If using a spark plug
    wrench, I fail to see how steel in steel can "break" I understand if
    you take a half-ass swing at pounding the wrench till it fits on
    something you'll break the top.... (if that happens, pull the top out,
    use the wrench, and remove the spark plug.... Which might be a little
    harder since you now can't get the top of the plug to fit into the
    rubber gasket, meaning you now have to be able to feel into the hole
    yourself, but... Not like I can picture the spark plug breaking INTO
    the engine....
    John H. Guillory, Jan 21, 2004
    #8
  9. Jian

    Sano Guest

    Thanks Joe. (please include some of the poster's message so there's a
    little continuity.

    I snapped two plugs off, with almost no effort. Eh?

    On the passanger side, after I broke off a used plug to check my
    method, I drove in a Lisle brand straight flute extractor. With a
    drilling hammer.

    On the driver's side, under the master cylinder power booster, I
    couldn't get any good effort into the hammer.

    Eventually I used a spiral type extractor, bottomed *all* the way till
    it absolutely stopped. Then I flipped a 5/8 plug socket upside-dowm
    over the square extractor head and used a 5/8 Allen wrench, with a foot
    long cheater pipe.

    After twisting it far enough to know the next thing was a broken
    extractor, I snaked a very stout cord through the shock tower and
    around the coil spring. Leaned as hard as I could on the wrench, and
    snugged tight on the cord. Truck was already running.

    Then took about an eight-ounce hammer and soundly tapped the bend of
    the Allen wrench.

    I billed US$788 for the job and was paid immediately.


    - Joe <> - spluttered in
    news:Xns947797A5B52C6jsalpha2netscapenet@204.127.204.17:

    > Start with the motor warm, not hot enough to burn your hands, but not
    > stone cold. Don't start with a lot of force. Try to loosen, if it
    > does not break loose, try to tighten. Go back and forth until the
    > plug turns slightly in either direction, then unscrew all the way
    > out. Use the propper tools, dont round anything off or break
    > anything. Squirting WD-40 on the plugs to clean the rust and dirt
    > off is not recommended.
    >




    --
    "The true man wants two things: danger and play.
    For that reason he wants woman, as the most
    dangerous plaything." - Friedrich Nietzsche
    Sano, Jan 22, 2004
    #9
  10. Jian

    Jan Ras Guest

    "Jian" <> schreef in bericht
    news:...
    > I want to change the spark plugs on Contour (98 V6).
    > People and book say that the plugs might break in
    > the hole. I want to save the money (dealer wants $260 labor
    > only to change plugs and wires).
    >
    > I do some repairs all the time but never changed plugs.
    > The 3 in front seems easy but the rear 3 seems hard.
    > I have 3/8" wench and spark socket.
    >
    > How to remove them safely? How to reach the rear 3
    > in right way? What should I care about?
    >
    > Thanks in advance.
    >
    > Jian


    Those were the days
    http://www.mtfca.com/
    Joe.
    Jan Ras, Jan 22, 2004
    #10
  11. Jian

    FELLOW54

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2009
    Messages:
    1
    Hey Jian:

    I got a Ford Contour 99 V6 and I have changed 3 times the spark plugs. As you said the three frontal SP are ease to change but the rear ones are very difficult unless you do certain job. All you have to do is a little more work. You should remove parts that don't alllow you to reach the 3 rear spark plugs. So, remove the plastic holder of the air filter with the corresponding hoses and do forget to disconect the wires of the sensors. Later, unscrew the three bolts that fix the aceleration wire to the intake manifold, then releasing that metalic base and put it to the side. Later, release the EGR valve from the intake manifold (two more bolts) and finally remove the intake manifold (6 additional bolts). In this way you will have easy access to back part where the three spark plugs are located. With the intake manifold in its location it is practically imposible to reach the rear spark plugs. I hope you understood this explanation and solve your problem.
    Sincerely,
    Raimundo
    FELLOW54, Aug 3, 2009
    #11
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