How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxic chemicals?

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by Danny D., Jan 9, 2013.

  1. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    My Nikon SLR was used to take pictures for this alt.home.repair thread:
    - Is there a better way to remove a poison oak plant than with a chainsaw?
    - https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/alt.home.repair/jwLrdiR0Fs4

    The Nikon camera and strap are slathered in toxic urushiol:
    http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917747/img/11917747.jpg

    Here, for example, is a video I just took with the camera:
    http://youtu.be/qYcJslc6ymE

    And, here is just one picture of the battle the camera is in:
    http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917744/img/11917744.jpg

    Since urushiol is known to remain toxic for over 100 years,
    and since it takes only a nanogram to infect a person,
    I ask you experts how YOU clean your SLR cameras and straps
    without destroying them?
    Danny D., Jan 9, 2013
    #1
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  2. Danny D.

    M-M Guest

    In article <kciuq4$4ig$>,
    "Danny D." <> wrote:

    > My Nikon SLR was used to take pictures for this alt.home.repair thread:
    > - Is there a better way to remove a poison oak plant than with a chainsaw?
    > -
    > https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/alt.home.repair/jwLrdiR0Fs
    > 4
    >
    > The Nikon camera and strap are slathered in toxic urushiol:
    > http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917747/img/11917747.jpg
    >
    > Here, for example, is a video I just took with the camera:
    > http://youtu.be/qYcJslc6ymE
    >
    > And, here is just one picture of the battle the camera is in:
    > http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917744/img/11917744.jpg
    >
    > Since urushiol is known to remain toxic for over 100 years,
    > and since it takes only a nanogram to infect a person,
    > I ask you experts how YOU clean your SLR cameras and straps
    > without destroying them?



    Wear rubber gloves.
    Remove straps and wash with soap and water
    Clean camera with Windex soaked cloth and a toothbrush if necessary
    Discard gloves

    --
    m-m
    Photo Gallery:
    http://www.mhmyers.com
    M-M, Jan 9, 2013
    #2
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  3. Danny D.

    Martin Brown Guest

    On 09/01/2013 05:22, Danny D. wrote:
    > My Nikon SLR was used to take pictures for this alt.home.repair thread:
    > - Is there a better way to remove a poison oak plant than with a chainsaw?
    > - https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/alt.home.repair/jwLrdiR0Fs4
    >
    > The Nikon camera and strap are slathered in toxic urushiol:
    > http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917747/img/11917747.jpg
    >
    > Here, for example, is a video I just took with the camera:
    > http://youtu.be/qYcJslc6ymE
    >
    > And, here is just one picture of the battle the camera is in:
    > http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917744/img/11917744.jpg
    >
    > Since urushiol is known to remain toxic for over 100 years,
    > and since it takes only a nanogram to infect a person,
    > I ask you experts how YOU clean your SLR cameras and straps
    > without destroying them?


    You ask a difficult question. One way to detox urushiol contamination is
    described in US Patent 4,594,239 (a statement of the blindingly obvious
    IMHO and not at all worthy of a patent).

    http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-...d=PTXT&s1=4,594,239&OS=4,594,239&RS=4,594,239

    Basically throw away the fabric strap as you will never get it clean
    enough. Next time either use a sacrificial cheap camera or a waterproof
    casing when you go into a hostile toxic chemical environment.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urushiol

    It is also soluble in alcohol which might help you get the worst of it
    off the metal components. It may already have diffused into any plastic.
    I suspect that using hypochlorite (bleach) carefully on your camera
    externally might clean it satisfactorily but will also shorten its
    working life due to chloride corrosion.

    You might get a better answer in sci.chem from someone who has had
    practical experience of removing natural urushiol resins from objects.

    Basically you should have known that you were going into a badly
    contaminated environment with the natural equivalent of mustard gas and
    handled the camera inside a plastic and with easy clean plastic straps.

    If I had to photograph it today I would probably have just used a cheap
    sacrificial camera or strictly enforced clean handling.

    Not sure I would trust welding gloves to keep it out either.

    --
    Regards,
    Martin Brown
    Martin Brown, Jan 9, 2013
    #3
  4. Danny D.

    Martin Brown Guest

    On 09/01/2013 12:57, Savageduck wrote:
    > On 2013-01-09 00:56:46 -0800, Eric Stevens <> said:
    >
    >> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 05:22:12 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
    >> <> wrote:
    >>
    >>> My Nikon SLR was used to take pictures for this alt.home.repair thread:
    >>> - Is there a better way to remove a poison oak plant than with a
    >>> chainsaw?
    >>> -
    >>> https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/alt.home.repair/jwLrdiR0Fs4
    >>>

    >
    > The
    >>>
    >>> Nikon camera and strap are slathered in toxic urushiol:
    >>> http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917747/img/11917747.jpg
    >>>
    >>> Here, for example, is a video I just took with the camera:
    >>> http://youtu.be/qYcJslc6ymE
    >>>
    >>> And, here is just one picture of the battle the camera is in:
    >>> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917744/img/11917744.jpg
    >>>
    >>> Since urushiol is known to remain toxic for over 100 years,
    >>> and since it takes only a nanogram to infect a person,
    >>> I ask you experts how YOU clean your SLR cameras and straps
    >>> without destroying them?

    >>
    >> I think the answer may be "you don't".

    >
    > You have nothing to lose and everything to gain. So you make the attempt.


    Actually if you fail to detox it properly you will have a very
    unpleasant experience from contact dermatitis. Similarly if you are
    slightly careless whilst trying to clean it the same applies.

    That is why I would recommend throwing the strap away.

    The camera body itself is worth cleaning but it would have been much
    better not to have contaminated it in the first place.


    --
    Regards,
    Martin Brown
    Martin Brown, Jan 9, 2013
    #4
  5. Buy a new one. Thriftiness is only a virtue so far.

    Chris

    "Danny D." wrote in message news:kciuq4$4ig$...

    My Nikon SLR was used to take pictures for this alt.home.repair thread:
    - Is there a better way to remove a poison oak plant than with a chainsaw?
    -
    https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/alt.home.repair/jwLrdiR0Fs4

    The Nikon camera and strap are slathered in toxic urushiol:
    http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917747/img/11917747.jpg

    Here, for example, is a video I just took with the camera:
    http://youtu.be/qYcJslc6ymE

    And, here is just one picture of the battle the camera is in:
    http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917744/img/11917744.jpg

    Since urushiol is known to remain toxic for over 100 years,
    and since it takes only a nanogram to infect a person,
    I ask you experts how YOU clean your SLR cameras and straps
    without destroying them?
    Chris Pisarra, Jan 9, 2013
    #5
  6. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 01:40:44 -0500, M-M wrote:

    > Wear rubber gloves.
    > Remove straps and wash with soap and water Clean camera with Windex
    > soaked cloth and a toothbrush if necessary Discard gloves


    The toothbrush idea helps because I was washing with an alcohol and
    bleach mix but doing so very delicately.
    Danny D., Jan 9, 2013
    #6
  7. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Tue, 08 Jan 2013 23:04:21 -0800, Savageduck wrote:

    > Most Poison Oak clearing I have seen was done with mattock, pick and
    > shovel, not a chainsaw due to the problem you have just experienced.


    This is a grove that would be nearly impossible by one man to
    clear with a pick and shovel. See why in this full-size picture:
    http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917454/img/11917454.jpg

    You can't get a truck/tractor down into that steep ravine, and, you
    certainly can't even think of spraying it (without a chopper).

    The a.h.r thread was trying to find better ways to remove it and I was
    snapping photos of the progress as I removed a 20 foot by 10 foot swath
    of the stuff. The oil is literally dripping on the camera.
    http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917454/img/11917454.jpg


    > remove the strap from the camera and drop it in the
    > washing machine with all your contaminated clothes. DO NOT CROSS
    > CONTAMINATE untainted clothes in the washing machine.


    THIS IS what I was wondering about. I get covered in urushiol sap all the
    time and just a single 90-minute wash (cross contaminated or not) works
    just fine. But I didn't know if it would ruin the strap.

    So, if the strap won't be ruined by washing - then that's no problem
    whatsoever as I have tons of experience with poison oak sap in the wash.
    The only thing bad that happens to clothes is the black oxidized sap is
    all over the place as shown in this picture of my shirt & gloves:
    http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917872/img/11917872.jpg

    > dump the strap and the contaminated clothes in the garbage.


    Only the government can afford to waste perfectly good (but contaminated
    clothing). The wash will work fine.

    > two bowls or containers Cotton swabs and cotton balls Dishwashing
    > detergent a bottle of isopropyl alcohol


    I just read the patent that was wonderfully pointed out
    http://tinyurl.com/ah7myn3
    and that is what I'll use. The cotton swabs are a good idea (along with a
    toothbrush someone else suggested). The only thing is I don't know what
    chlorine & alcohol or acetone will do to the printed text on the Nikon
    D5000 SLR.

    > Remove the battery from the camera.
    > I would also remove the rubber viewfinder eye-piece cup.

    Both good ideas!

    > Now you should have a decontaminated Nikon.


    I like your ideas! Thanks. I'll report back, although the only true
    measure of success removing something you can't see is if my wife doesn't
    get contaminated while using my camera! :)
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #7
  8. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 07:46:22 +0000, Martin Brown wrote:

    > You ask a difficult question. One way to detox urushiol contamination is
    > described in US Patent 4,594,239 (a statement of the blindingly obvious
    > IMHO and not at all worthy of a patent).


    That was a F-A-N-T-A-S-T-I-C reference!

    That one post makes this entire thread worthwhile (to me)!

    (i.e., I knew people would say not to use a Nikon D5000 camera in rough
    conditions because most people baby their cameras - but I had not
    expected such a PERFECTLY focused answer, targeted on the problem!)

    I read that patent page over and over and over again!

    Summary:
    Urushiol causes dermatitis by changing the surface proteins in the skin
    so the body no longer recognizes the skin as human, and attacks it.

    That effect is actually fairly easy to interfere with. Pretty much any
    change to the urushiol molecule would probably prevent dermatitis.

    Chlorine bleach is a strong oxidizing agent, and should easily do the
    trick. Getting it into the oil would be aided by adding alcohol or
    acetone as a wetting agent, but a strong surfactant should also work.

    The patent prefers a solution of acetone + butyl acetate +
    trichloroisocyanuric acid for neutralizing urushiol on skin, clothes, and
    equipment; but if I preferentially select just the common household
    chemicals discussed, the patent seems says that 2% to 6% common bleach
    alone or combined with 5% to 20% rubbing alcohol (or acetone) as a
    wetting agent will neutralize urushiol in about 1 minute.

    The patent even explains how adding certain ferrous compounds will
    actually make the toxic urushiol glow green, while the decontaminated
    urushiol will not.

    That is a rare find on the usenet. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
    (How did you find it? I've been looking for years for a solution!)
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #8
  9. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 17:24:57 -0800, Savageduck wrote:

    > In that case, if access is so tough, why do you need to clear it?


    I'm sorry if I ever intimated I 'must' clear it. It's land. It's covered
    in Pacific Poison Oak. I just want to walk on it. There no dire 'need'.
    Either the poison oaks wins, or I win. I have the same battle with Scotch
    Broom and Spanish Broom. It's either them, or me. :)

    > Taking an unprotected camera along, and having it where you
    > would actually drip the PO oil onto it was an even worse idea.


    My camera goes where I go. That means it goes kayaking and skiing.
    Yes, I break cameras all the time. My next Nikon SLR is NOT going to have
    a crappy plastic lens mount, for example. But that's for another thread.

    > DO NOT CROSS CONTAMINATE untainted clothes in the washing machine.


    As you can imagine, I have a LOT of experience washing urushiol-sap
    soaked clothes. I put the mine & the kids underwear in the same load.
    It's amazing, but, washing for 90 minutes works just fine, despite all
    the things on the net that say otherwise. YMMV.

    > The worst that can happen is you have to replace the strap.


    The strap is going in the wash! I'll let you know the outcome.
    Tomorrow I'll also start swabbing down the camera.
    My poison oak rash is just starting - but it's not too bad.

    > Yup! I know those stains well.


    Then you know urushiol! Everyone who tells me they got poison oak or ivy,
    I ask if they had the black stains. If they don't know what I'm talking
    about, then I know they have no clue. It's like the difference of being
    in the front line versus the rear echelon. You can tell right away how
    much they've actually 'battled' the urushiol sap!

    > DO NOT USE CHLORINE OR ACETONE ON THE CAMERA AT ALL!!


    That was what I was worried about. I don't want to ruin the camera just
    by cleaning it. I think the pool trichlor might not be too bad on the
    camera, but, I'm still looking that up and need to test on some clothes
    first. I'll be an expert at this by the end - but I'm nowhere near where
    I need to be on knowledge yet as I'm just starting to learn.

    > BTW: Where in California is this?


    Santa Cruz mountains. Up in the hills. Mountain country.
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #9
  10. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 17:42:02 -0800, Savageduck wrote:

    > BTW: There is also this:
    > The UC Davis site suggests using Tecnu for first aid


    I don't disagree that Technu/IvyBlock/Zanfel, etc. are great products.
    The government spends half its firefighting budget on gallons of that
    expensive stuff.

    Me?

    I've studied the ingredients to understand what each does, and that's how
    I have come up with the approach that I use.
    - Driller's clay (blockers, i.e., poor-man's ivy block)
    - Dish detergent (surfactants, i.e., poor-man's Technu/Zanfel)
    - Alcohol or acetone (wetting agents, i.e., poor-man's Technu/Zanfel)
    - Bleach or chloramines (oxidizing agents, i.e., poor-man's Technu/Zanfel)

    The only thing I can say about 'my' approach using common household
    chemicals compared to the miracle solutions is that my solutions are, for
    the most part, the same as in the miracle tubes, yet mine are VASTLY
    cheaper than the store-bought solutions.

    Of course, I have no access to spermicides & polyethylene granules, but I
    do have easy grocery-store access to sodium laurel sulfate, bleaches, &
    chloramines, plus every time I stop by a well drilling operation, I ask
    for a handful of bentonite.

    BTW, DO YOU KNOW where we can buy spermicides & polyethylene granules?
    (I never thought about buying them until now.)
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #10
  11. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 17:29:48 -0800, Savageduck wrote:

    > I would take care using chlorine and/or acetone on
    > the polycarbonate D5000 body.


    That's what I was worried about!
    The plastic. And the lens films. And the printing.

    > I assume you also saw the UC Davis information?
    > < http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7431.html >


    Nice find. I had not read this prior. I realized from reading that that I
    should have sprayed the cut stumps with the glyphosate so I'm going to do
    that tomorrow. They say to use a paint brush but I'll be there all day
    doing that. Spray will just have to do. It's VERY INTERESTING that they
    suggested 20% glyphosate (which is super concentrated!). Luckily I have
    2.5 gallons of 41% glyphosate - but normal concentrations (e.g., Roundup)
    are one ounce of my 41% solution per gallon of water.

    So it's shocking how high they suggest the glyphosate concentration to be
    for painting the stumps.

    They say to use isopropyl alchol and water - but I think they are
    guessing too much on the part about avoiding 'warm' water. Sure, I've
    heard all the old wives tales about it 'opening up the pores', but the
    oil isn't getting underneath the upper layer of skin through pores in the
    first place - so I suspect they don't have their science right. Certainly
    they didn't back up the statement.

    Also, they don't clarify what they mean by a certain percentage of people
    are 'immune', so again, (since this one I know rather well), they really
    didn't write it from a scientific standpoint - because they're clearly
    wrong.

    They also talk about the 5 minute exposure time, but, in reality, that's
    just not practical, and, it's really more like double to triple that for
    practical purposes. So, they aren't lying - they're just not all that
    explanatory.

    Still, there is plenty there that is good information. For example, I'm a
    firm believer in the sentence they said about not removing the protective
    oils on the skin. Of course, they didn't prove that one either - but I
    don't disbelieve it even though I can't personally prove it myself.

    Poison oak is one of those subjects that inherently has a lot of
    unsupported old wives tales. I'm not sure why - but it just does. I guess
    it's because you can't 'see' the oil, so, everyone comes up with their
    story of how they attacked it and lived to tell the tale because of this
    or that trick they used (me included).

    But none of us are brave enough to pour that gloopy sap on our bare skin!

    BTW, I'm certainly not in the percentage they 'say' are immune, as my
    face has it, my ears do, my neck, and my wrists. But, it's not too bad. I
    made up a solution of 1/3 bleach, 1/3 alcohol, and 1/3 dish detergent and
    washed those spots for about five minutes in the shower today.

    Hopefully that will help but what I really need to add is the spermicide
    and polyethylene granules. I might be able to substitute a gritty
    substance for the PEG granules - but I'll need to look up spermicides (as
    I've never had a need for them until now).
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #11
  12. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 11:35:42 +1300, Eric Stevens wrote:

    > The camera is the real problem. The allergen is likely to have made its
    > way into various cracks, crannies and porous surfaces on the SLR and
    > probably made its way to interior surfaces. Even cleaning the outside of
    > the camera is likely to be a mind-boggling job but if the cleaning goes
    > no further traces of the allergen are likely to make their way back to
    > the suface for some time to come.


    Well stated!

    I will look up if the favored solutions will damage the polycarbonate
    body of the Nikon D5000 SLR.

    For the equipment, the favored solutions is a mix of:
    - 1/3 non-bleaching oxidizer (e.g., pool trichlor or non-chlorine bleach)
    - 1/3 wetting agent (e.g., rubbing alcohol or acetone)
    - 1/3 surfactant (e.g., dish detergent)

    For the polycarbonate camera body, I probably should NOT use acetone (as
    someone already stated), nor common household chlorine (sodium
    hypochlorite), which may oxidize too much on the camera body.

    But what do you think of the rest of the chemicals?

    > The next question is: how do you decontaminate the chain saw?


    That's vastly less worrisome because it can take being soaked in the
    solution; but the camera has to be done muuuuuch more carefully!
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #12
  13. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 15:06:39 -0800, Savageduck wrote:

    > The strap could probably make it through a couple of cycles


    The strap is going into the wash tomorrow. Before/after pictures will
    result and you'll be the first to know whether or not it gets ruined.

    > The real lesson here is, not to take a camera you are not prepared to
    > sacrifice into harms way.


    All cameras are sacrificial. I have a box of Nikons all broken over the
    years. I can snap a picture of them if you like - but the plain fact is
    that, to me, a camera is worthless as a camera if I don't have it with me
    when I want to snap a picture.

    Of course, it's my fault for buying a cheap ($1000) Nikon SLR - my next
    SLR will be metal!

    > It is probably going to be easier to clean the chain
    > saw than the camera.


    I'm not at all worried about the chain saw. The kids and wife never touch
    it, for example. And I can dump it in the cleaning fluid and wash it off
    with the hose. Hell, Technu (according to the Davis site you pointed me
    to) is made out of gasoline anyway! :) So, I could pour gasoline on it,
    and that would work as well.

    None of that will work on the SLR!

    > Take the bar and soak it in some shop degreaser or gasoline.


    I agree. Gasoline should work, as it's, apparently, poor-man's Technu
    anyway!
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #13
  14. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 22:43:02 -0800, Savageduck wrote:

    > Unfortunately, I don't know where to get any of those items. I would
    > think injection molding suppliers would be able to provide polyethylene


    Since I have a few spots of the rash forming on my ears, neck, cheek,
    wrists, and ankle, I'm going to beef up my poor-man's Zanfel/Technu by
    picking up some spermicide at the local drug store tomorrow.

    Googling, I find spermicide is usually bundled with an oily lubricant,
    which kind of defeats my purpose, so I'll have to look carefully for
    "just" the spermicide sans unwanted oils.

    As for the PEG granules, I suspect I can use almost anything slightly
    gritty, such as talcum powder or toothpaste on the rash spots that I have
    along with the solution.

    So, here's the 'kit' I'll be making up for the rash in 1/3 quantities:
    a) Oxidizer (bleach or pool trichlor)
    b) Wetting agent (rubbing alcohol)
    c) Surfactant (dish detergent)

    In the shower, I will apply that triplet solution plus I'll squirt a dab
    of spermicide and a squish of toothpaste at the rash itself.

    Then I'll rub those five ingredients together (poor man's Zanfel/Technu)
    on the rash. Hopefully that will work - but the chances of that lessening
    the rash is slim given the time lag.

    But the solution and ingredients should work for the next time, when I
    can carry the 5 ingredients out to the field to wash up.
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #14
  15. "Danny D." <> wrote in message
    news:kclk16$ol6$...
    >
    > I'm sorry if I ever intimated I 'must' clear it. It's land. It's covered
    > in Pacific Poison Oak. I just want to walk on it. There no dire 'need'.
    > Either the poison oaks wins, or I win. I have the same battle with Scotch
    > Broom and Spanish Broom. It's either them, or me. :)


    [...]

    > My camera goes where I go. That means it goes kayaking and skiing.
    > Yes, I break cameras all the time. My next Nikon SLR is NOT going to have
    > a crappy plastic lens mount, for example. But that's for another thread.


    Let go, Grasshopper.

    --
    Charles E. Hardwidge
    Charles E. Hardwidge, Jan 10, 2013
    #15
  16. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 23:08:51 -0800, Savageduck wrote:

    > I would first ask if you had any
    > sort of filter on your lens.


    Unfortunately ... I broke my filter.

    So no. There is no filter, as I haven't had a chance to replace it yet.
    So the lens is almost certainly splattered with urushiol as I tried to
    make a movie of a vine being cut at the base.
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #16
  17. "Danny D." <> wrote in message
    news:kclmhl$ol6$...

    > That's vastly less worrisome because it can take being soaked in the
    > solution; but the camera has to be done muuuuuch more carefully!


    Maybe you should use solvent on the chainsaw, and save the petrol and box of
    matches for the camera?

    --
    Charles E. Hardwidge
    Charles E. Hardwidge, Jan 10, 2013
    #17
  18. Danny D.

    Martin Brown Guest

    On 10/01/2013 00:26, Danny D. wrote:
    > On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 07:46:22 +0000, Martin Brown wrote:
    >
    >> You ask a difficult question. One way to detox urushiol contamination is
    >> described in US Patent 4,594,239 (a statement of the blindingly obvious
    >> IMHO and not at all worthy of a patent).

    >
    > That was a F-A-N-T-A-S-T-I-C reference!
    >
    > That one post makes this entire thread worthwhile (to me)!


    Glad it helps. I would still be inclined to put a sacrificial plastic
    bag outer skin on your camera next time or use a throw away one.

    > That is a rare find on the usenet. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
    > (How did you find it? I've been looking for years for a solution!)


    Sort of knowing what to look for - I am a scientist by training.
    Be careful since you need to get every last trace of it detoxified.

    I also lived in Japan where urushiol based lacquerware is common.
    (once the stuff is fully polymerised it is a benign natural plastic)

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer_tree

    It is wise to treat anything in Anacardiaceae with some care.


    --
    Regards,
    Martin Brown
    Martin Brown, Jan 10, 2013
    #18
  19. Danny D.

    Martin Brown Guest

    On 10/01/2013 06:12, Danny D. wrote:
    > On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 17:29:48 -0800, Savageduck wrote:
    >
    >> I would take care using chlorine and/or acetone on
    >> the polycarbonate D5000 body.

    >
    > That's what I was worried about!
    > The plastic. And the lens films. And the printing.
    >
    >> I assume you also saw the UC Davis information?
    >> < http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7431.html >

    >
    > Nice find. I had not read this prior. I realized from reading that that I
    > should have sprayed the cut stumps with the glyphosate so I'm going to do
    > that tomorrow. They say to use a paint brush but I'll be there all day


    Too late you need to do it to a freshly cut stump. The sap will have
    formed a pretty much impervious barrier overnight.

    > doing that. Spray will just have to do. It's VERY INTERESTING that they
    > suggested 20% glyphosate (which is super concentrated!). Luckily I have
    > 2.5 gallons of 41% glyphosate - but normal concentrations (e.g., Roundup)
    > are one ounce of my 41% solution per gallon of water.
    >
    > So it's shocking how high they suggest the glyphosate concentration to be
    > for painting the stumps.


    That is because the sap resin exuded tends to prevent uptake of the
    poison. The tree is defending itself from predation and using WWI class
    chemical weapons. Only a handful of rare exotic plants are nastier.

    > They say to use isopropyl alchol and water - but I think they are
    > guessing too much on the part about avoiding 'warm' water. Sure, I've
    > heard all the old wives tales about it 'opening up the pores', but the
    > oil isn't getting underneath the upper layer of skin through pores in the
    > first place - so I suspect they don't have their science right. Certainly
    > they didn't back up the statement.


    No it isn't. They are right. Follow their advice.

    If you want to see why they give that advice get your hands well covered
    in black soot and wash one in hot and one in cold water.
    >
    > Also, they don't clarify what they mean by a certain percentage of people
    > are 'immune', so again, (since this one I know rather well), they really
    > didn't write it from a scientific standpoint - because they're clearly
    > wrong.


    No they are right.

    A small number of lucky people do not react at all - they tend to find
    employment in Japan working with urushiol lacquer. A fraction are also
    tolerant on very first exposure but then sensitised by it and will react
    allergically on subsequent exposure. Complacency is dangerous.

    > They also talk about the 5 minute exposure time, but, in reality, that's
    > just not practical, and, it's really more like double to triple that for
    > practical purposes. So, they aren't lying - they're just not all that
    > explanatory.


    They are erring on the side of caution. I think this is wise.

    If you are handling seriously nasty chemicals it is wise to have the
    antidote, cleaning materials and remedial treatments close at hand.

    --
    Regards,
    Martin Brown
    Martin Brown, Jan 10, 2013
    #19
  20. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Re: How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxicchemicals?

    On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 21:44:12 +1300, Eric Stevens wrote:

    > You have to get in quickly with the cut stumps. I don't know the time
    > for poison oak but within 2 or 3 minutes is not unusual. When you cut a
    > stump it first oozes sap and then the flow reverses. If you don't get in
    > by that stage there will be nothing to suck the glyphosphate back into
    > the stump. Leaving it that late is too late.


    Aha!

    That explains why I failed to eradicate Spanish Broom on my property
    in addition to the Poison Oak.

    Recently I learned you need to apply the glyphosate within minutes
    of chainsawing the Spanish Broom.

    I never knew why - and - I thought it was specific to Spanish Broom.

    From what you're saying, it's the way plants work.
    http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/11926626/img/11926626.jpg
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #20
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