DVD-ROM problems

Discussion in 'A+ Certification' started by Dave Hardenbrook, Jul 11, 2005.

  1. I am currently diagnosing a problem with a DVD-ROM drive, which is
    showing very odd behavior:

    Windows is running normally and you insert a disk (*any* disk: CD-ROM,
    audio CD, Video DVD, DVD-ROM, CD-R, CD-RW), the lights on the DVD-ROM
    drive and the hard drive go on and stay on, and the DVD's drive
    letter disappers from the folder tree in Windows Explorer and doesn't
    return. Windows itself doesn't hang -- it just refuses to "see"
    whatever is in the DVD-ROM. (The system also has a CD-RW and it reads
    all CD-format disks without any problem.)

    Now if I warm-reboot (same disk still in the DVD drive), when I get to
    the POST, it pauses anywhere from five to 20 seconds as it looks for IDE
    devices before displaying them. Then the system hangs when it tries to
    check if the disk in the DVD is bootable. Now I do a cold boot (either
    the Reset button or a full power off and on again), and now I get past
    the POST and the boot check in a few seconds, and when Windows comes up,
    the disk in the DVD drive is visible and usable! But as soon as I swap
    disks, Windows stalls on trying to read the new disk, and I have to
    cold-boot again as described above before the disk can be accessed.

    What on earth could be causing this?

    Specs:

    CPU: Duron 950 Mhz
    256M Memory
    Mobo chipset: VIA KT133A

    IDEs: PM: Sony DVD-ROM (the problem), PS: LiteOn CD-RW (works fine);
    SM: Maxtor 40G hardrive, SS: Zip 250

    Windows XP Home SP2

    --
    Dave
     
    Dave Hardenbrook, Jul 11, 2005
    #1
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  2. Dave Hardenbrook

    Linker3000 Guest

    Dave Hardenbrook wrote:

    > I am currently diagnosing a problem with a DVD-ROM drive, which is
    > showing very odd behavior:
    >
    > Windows is running normally and you insert a disk (*any* disk: CD-ROM,
    > audio CD, Video DVD, DVD-ROM, CD-R, CD-RW), the lights on the DVD-ROM
    > drive and the hard drive go on and stay on, and the DVD's drive
    > letter disappers from the folder tree in Windows Explorer and doesn't
    > return. Windows itself doesn't hang -- it just refuses to "see"
    > whatever is in the DVD-ROM. (The system also has a CD-RW and it reads
    > all CD-format disks without any problem.)
    >
    > Now if I warm-reboot (same disk still in the DVD drive), when I get to
    > the POST, it pauses anywhere from five to 20 seconds as it looks for IDE
    > devices before displaying them. Then the system hangs when it tries to
    > check if the disk in the DVD is bootable. Now I do a cold boot (either
    > the Reset button or a full power off and on again), and now I get past
    > the POST and the boot check in a few seconds, and when Windows comes up,
    > the disk in the DVD drive is visible and usable! But as soon as I swap
    > disks, Windows stalls on trying to read the new disk, and I have to
    > cold-boot again as described above before the disk can be accessed.
    >
    > What on earth could be causing this?
    >
    > Specs:
    >
    > CPU: Duron 950 Mhz
    > 256M Memory
    > Mobo chipset: VIA KT133A
    >
    > IDEs: PM: Sony DVD-ROM (the problem), PS: LiteOn CD-RW (works fine);
    > SM: Maxtor 40G hardrive, SS: Zip 250
    >
    > Windows XP Home SP2
    >
    > --
    > Dave


    Have a look at the drive jumper settings - are they setup for
    master/slave or cable select properly - then test by substitution?
    Cable? Drive? They're so cheap thesedays that it's not worth spending
    much time on the hardware - at least a swap-out of bits one by one will
    steer you in the hardware or software direction.
     
    Linker3000, Jul 11, 2005
    #2
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  3. Dave Hardenbrook

    rainman Guest

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    Hash: SHA1

    Linker3000 wrote:
    > Dave Hardenbrook wrote:
    >
    >> I am currently diagnosing a problem with a DVD-ROM drive, which is
    >> showing very odd behavior:
    >> Windows is running normally and you insert a disk (*any* disk: CD-ROM,
    >> audio CD, Video DVD, DVD-ROM, CD-R, CD-RW), the lights on the DVD-ROM
    >> drive and the hard drive go on and stay on, and the DVD's drive letter
    >> disappers from the folder tree in Windows Explorer and doesn't
    >> return. Windows itself doesn't hang -- it just refuses to "see"
    >> whatever is in the DVD-ROM. (The system also has a CD-RW and it reads
    >> all CD-format disks without any problem.)
    >>
    >> Now if I warm-reboot (same disk still in the DVD drive), when I get to
    >> the POST, it pauses anywhere from five to 20 seconds as it looks for
    >> IDE devices before displaying them. Then the system hangs when it
    >> tries to check if the disk in the DVD is bootable. Now I do a cold
    >> boot (either the Reset button or a full power off and on again), and
    >> now I get past the POST and the boot check in a few seconds, and when
    >> Windows comes up, the disk in the DVD drive is visible and usable!
    >> But as soon as I swap disks, Windows stalls on trying to read the new
    >> disk, and I have to cold-boot again as described above before the disk
    >> can be accessed.
    >>
    >> What on earth could be causing this?
    >>
    >> Specs:
    >>
    >> CPU: Duron 950 Mhz
    >> 256M Memory
    >> Mobo chipset: VIA KT133A
    >>
    >> IDEs: PM: Sony DVD-ROM (the problem), PS: LiteOn CD-RW (works fine);
    >> SM: Maxtor 40G hardrive, SS: Zip 250
    >> Windows XP Home SP2
    >>
    >> --
    >> Dave

    >
    >
    > Have a look at the drive jumper settings - are they setup for
    > master/slave or cable select properly - then test by substitution?
    > Cable? Drive? They're so cheap thesedays that it's not worth spending
    > much time on the hardware - at least a swap-out of bits one by one will
    > steer you in the hardware or software direction.


    In my opinion, the problem is most likely due to (in this order): dirty
    drive (clean it), overworked or failing power supply, bad cables, or
    faulty IDE controller (you didn't specify, but I assume it's an IDE drive).

    Rainman
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    rainman, Jul 12, 2005
    #3
  4. In article <>, news.65739
    @buckeye-express.com says...
    > In my opinion, the problem is most likely due to (in this order): dirty
    > drive (clean it)...


    What's the best way to clean it? One of my A+ books says spray
    compressed air into it, but won't that just blow the dust and debris
    *deeper* into the mechanism?

    --
    Dave
     
    Dave Hardenbrook, Jul 13, 2005
    #4
  5. Dave Hardenbrook

    rainman Guest

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    Hash: SHA1

    Dave Hardenbrook wrote:
    > In article <>, news.65739
    > @buckeye-express.com says...
    >
    >>In my opinion, the problem is most likely due to (in this order): dirty
    >>drive (clean it)...

    >
    >
    > What's the best way to clean it? One of my A+ books says spray
    > compressed air into it, but won't that just blow the dust and debris
    > *deeper* into the mechanism?
    >
    > --
    > Dave


    When you spray air in, it forces air out as well. Only so much air can
    fit, and the outgoing air should carry away most of the dust. However,
    chances are... there's not much in there... it's just in the wrong
    spot... if you can get the dust off the laser mechanism, and onto the
    back of the drive near the gears... it'd still be preferable. But most
    of it should come out if that's the problem.

    Don't forget to use the can properly, though. Make sure the system is
    powered down, and the drive is unplugged from the power supply... you
    don't want it to short out if some moister sprays from the can. To avoid
    moisture, hold the can upright, and spray in half second bursts.

    You can also get some of those "drive cleaning discs" that you insert
    and run with the software for a specified period of time... but I'm not
    sure how well these work, as I don't think the lens actually comes into
    contact with the disc.

    Rainman
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    rainman, Jul 13, 2005
    #5
  6. Dave Hardenbrook

    JohnO Guest

    > In my opinion, the problem is most likely due to (in this order): dirty
    > drive (clean it), overworked or failing power supply, bad cables, or
    > faulty IDE controller (you didn't specify, but I assume it's an IDE
    > drive).
    >


    A drive not appearing in BIOS or on a list of drives is a logic problem, not
    dust or dirt. You could pour mud in the drive and the BIOS will still see
    its controller. :)

    For some reason the mobo drive controller is not seeing the drive, and thus
    not seeing the info needed to make it active, reliably. I think the order of
    attack is:

    Connections (loose or broken data cable, or cable select with an old 40-pin
    cable)
    Configuration (master/slave jumper)
    Bad drive

    Try the drive on the IDE channel all by itself, and make sure the cable is
    80 pins and that it works.

    -John O
     
    JohnO, Jul 13, 2005
    #6
  7. Dave Hardenbrook

    AG Guest


    > When you spray air in, it forces air out as well. Only so much air can
    > fit, and the outgoing air should carry away most of the dust. However,
    > chances are... there's not much in there... it's just in the wrong
    > spot... if you can get the dust off the laser mechanism, and onto the
    > back of the drive near the gears... it'd still be preferable. But most
    > of it should come out if that's the problem.
    >
    > Don't forget to use the can properly, though. Make sure the system is
    > powered down, and the drive is unplugged from the power supply... you
    > don't want it to short out if some moister sprays from the can. To avoid
    > moisture, hold the can upright, and spray in half second bursts.
    >
    > You can also get some of those "drive cleaning discs" that you insert
    > and run with the software for a specified period of time... but I'm not
    > sure how well these work, as I don't think the lens actually comes into
    > contact with the disc.
    >
    > Rainman

    The moisture that comes out of a can of air won't hurt the drive. If it
    were water it probably would but what is in those cans isn't water it's the
    propellant. It's a non-issue. If you are using compressed air from a tank
    or compressor then there is a good chance of condensation in the air. That
    could be a bad thing but most good compressors have a moisture bleed off
    valve to get rid of it.

    AG
     
    AG, Jul 16, 2005
    #7
  8. Dave Hardenbrook

    rainman Guest

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    Hash: SHA1

    AG wrote:
    >>When you spray air in, it forces air out as well. Only so much air can
    >>fit, and the outgoing air should carry away most of the dust. However,
    >>chances are... there's not much in there... it's just in the wrong
    >>spot... if you can get the dust off the laser mechanism, and onto the
    >>back of the drive near the gears... it'd still be preferable. But most
    >>of it should come out if that's the problem.
    >>
    >>Don't forget to use the can properly, though. Make sure the system is
    >>powered down, and the drive is unplugged from the power supply... you
    >>don't want it to short out if some moister sprays from the can. To avoid
    >>moisture, hold the can upright, and spray in half second bursts.
    >>
    >>You can also get some of those "drive cleaning discs" that you insert
    >>and run with the software for a specified period of time... but I'm not
    >>sure how well these work, as I don't think the lens actually comes into
    >>contact with the disc.
    >>
    >>Rainman

    >
    > The moisture that comes out of a can of air won't hurt the drive. If it
    > were water it probably would but what is in those cans isn't water it's the
    > propellant. It's a non-issue. If you are using compressed air from a tank
    > or compressor then there is a good chance of condensation in the air. That
    > could be a bad thing but most good compressors have a moisture bleed off
    > valve to get rid of it.
    >
    > AG


    Actually, any liquid with electrolytes can damage an electronic
    component, if it is powered up. The electrolytes can be found in the
    dust, and can be dissolved into the moisture upon impact, instantly
    causing a short circuit through the moisture.

    In addition, the moisture that comes out of a can is much much colder
    than the air itself, and while this initial moisture evaporates quickly,
    it can cause the air around it to rapidly cool and condense the water
    vapor in the air, and this new moisture evaporates much more slowly, and
    can cause damage.

    Although the likelihood of damaging the system with a can of compressed
    air is extremely slim, it's best to practice safe precautions, and
    unpower the device, and hold the can upright in short bursts.

    Rainman
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    rainman, Jul 17, 2005
    #8
  9. Dave Hardenbrook

    Pat Guest

    JohnO wrote:
    >>In my opinion, the problem is most likely due to (in this order): dirty
    >>drive (clean it), overworked or failing power supply, bad cables, or
    >>faulty IDE controller (you didn't specify, but I assume it's an IDE
    >>drive).
    >>

    >
    >
    > A drive not appearing in BIOS or on a list of drives is a logic problem, not
    > dust or dirt. You could pour mud in the drive and the BIOS will still see
    > its controller. :)
    >
    > For some reason the mobo drive controller is not seeing the drive, and thus
    > not seeing the info needed to make it active, reliably. I think the order of
    > attack is:
    >
    > Connections (loose or broken data cable, or cable select with an old 40-pin
    > cable)
    > Configuration (master/slave jumper)
    > Bad drive
    >
    > Try the drive on the IDE channel all by itself, and make sure the cable is
    > 80 pins and that it works.


    I don't know of any optical drive that requires an 80 pin cable.
     
    Pat, Jul 17, 2005
    #9
  10. Dave Hardenbrook

    rainman Guest

    -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
    Hash: SHA1

    AG wrote:
    > "rainman" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    >
    >>-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
    >>Hash: SHA1
    >>
    >>
    >>>>The moisture that comes out of a can of air won't hurt the drive. If it
    >>>
    >>>were water it probably would but what is in those cans isn't water it's
    >>>the
    >>>propellant. It's a non-issue. If you are using compressed air from a
    >>>tank
    >>>or compressor then there is a good chance of condensation in the air.
    >>>That
    >>>could be a bad thing but most good compressors have a moisture bleed off
    >>>valve to get rid of it.
    >>>
    >>>AG

    >>
    >>Actually, any liquid with electrolytes can damage an electronic
    >>component, if it is powered up. The electrolytes can be found in the
    >>dust, and can be dissolved into the moisture upon impact, instantly
    >>causing a short circuit through the moisture.
    >>
    >>In addition, the moisture that comes out of a can is much much colder
    >>than the air itself, and while this initial moisture evaporates quickly,
    >>it can cause the air around it to rapidly cool and condense the water
    >>vapor in the air, and this new moisture evaporates much more slowly, and
    >>can cause damage.
    >>
    >>Although the likelihood of damaging the system with a can of compressed
    >>air is extremely slim, it's best to practice safe precautions, and
    >>unpower the device, and hold the can upright in short bursts.
    >>
    >>Rainman

    >
    > It's not water. It's propellant. It will not stay liquid long enough to
    > dissolve anything.
    >
    > AG
    >
    >


    I never said it was water. In fact, I pointed out *several* ways it
    could damage your system. Any liquid can dissolve electrolytes. And in
    fact, when the contents of the can come out as air, it has evaporated
    quickly enough not to dissolve anything. However, when the contents come
    out as liquid (ie. holding the can upside-down), it can take several
    seconds to evaporate completely, plenty of time to dissolve electrolytes
    and a short to occur if there is power to the system.

    Here's another fact:
    The can of air I have in front of me consists of highly compressed
    petroleum hydrocarbons, which is still capable of dissolving
    electrolytes. Not only that, many petroleum hydrocarbons are corrosive
    in themselves (think: paint thinner).

    Again: while the chances of damaging your system with canned air are
    extremely unlikely, it's still best to take precautions just in case. If
    you disagree with me, then feel free to hold a can upside-down over your
    brand new P4EE while powered up and spray continuously.

    Rainman
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    rainman, Jul 17, 2005
    #10
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