D70s Long exposures

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by Tim, Jun 25, 2006.

  1. Tim

    Tim Guest

    Hi

    I've been looking into long night time exposures and it looks as if my only
    option with this camera is to get a ML-L3 remote control

    I assume you press it once to open and once to close the shutter when it's
    on the bulb setting in manual mode

    Can anyone tell me if this is right or are there better/different ways of
    doing this

    TIA

    Tim
    Tim, Jun 25, 2006
    #1
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  2. Tim

    acl Guest

    Tim wrote:

    > I've been looking into long night time exposures and it looks as if my only
    > option with this camera is to get a ML-L3 remote control
    >
    > I assume you press it once to open and once to close the shutter when it's
    > on the bulb setting in manual mode
    >
    > Can anyone tell me if this is right or are there better/different ways of
    > doing this
    >


    Hello, take a look at
    http://groups.google.be/group/rec.p...9ebc2059cc?lnk=st&q=&rnum=25#8c1da49ebc2059cc
    (sorry if the link is too long). Actually I'll cut and paste from what
    I wrote there:

    You could get a remote release for your camera (I don't know if cable,
    wireless or both are available for your camera, look around). Two other
    options:

    a) Say you want a photo at ISO 100, 4min, f/5.6; take 8 photos at ISO
    100, f/5.6, 30sec and add them (eg in photoshop you can layer them and
    use Screen blending, which is close enough, or there are programs to
    add them). The problem with this is that read noise may be amplified
    (if it's patterned)
    b) Take many photos (as above) but average them (eg take 4 photos,
    layer them, and give the topmost layer 25% opacity, the next 33%, the
    next 50% and the last 100%). The resulting image will still be
    underexposed, but much cleaner (less noise), so you can easily boost
    the shadows. The same problem as above with read noise, but you can use
    higher ISOs here to alleviate this (because random noise gets averaged
    out when adding, and read noise is smaller relative to the signal).

    I use the second technique a lot with my D200 (using the built-in
    intervalometer, but it's not necessary).
    acl, Jun 25, 2006
    #2
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  3. Tim

    Bill Guest

    "Tim" <no > wrote:

    >I've been looking into long night time exposures and it looks as if my only
    >option with this camera is to get a ML-L3 remote control


    The D70s can use the newer wired remote MC-DC1 as well as the wireless
    remote, although it costs more. I like the wired remotes better because
    I'm usually behind the camera for long exposures or night shots, etc.

    The wireless remote needs to be aimed at the IR port on the front of the
    camera.

    FYI - the older D70 model does not have a wired port.

    >I assume you press it once to open and once to close the shutter when it's
    >on the bulb setting in manual mode


    I believe so...
    Bill, Jun 25, 2006
    #3
  4. Tim

    aussie bongo Guest

    "Bill" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > "Tim" <no > wrote:
    >
    >>I've been looking into long night time exposures and it looks as if my
    >>only
    >>option with this camera is to get a ML-L3 remote control



    snipped


    >>I assume you press it once to open and once to close the shutter when it's
    >>on the bulb setting in manual mode

    >



    i think you will find it is the same as the D50. you press the button and
    have to hold it down all the time you are taking the shot.

    there are some after market remotes where you press once and the remote will
    keep the button pressed untill you press it again.
    aussie bongo, Jun 25, 2006
    #4
  5. Tim

    Roy G Guest

    "Tim" <no > wrote in message
    news:IsBng.91333$...
    > Hi
    >
    > I've been looking into long night time exposures and it looks as if my
    > only option with this camera is to get a ML-L3 remote control
    >
    > I assume you press it once to open and once to close the shutter when it's
    > on the bulb setting in manual mode
    >
    > Can anyone tell me if this is right or are there better/different ways of
    > doing this
    >
    > TIA
    >
    > Tim

    Hi.

    If it is on a solid tripod, and you are making lo-ong exposures, you can
    still do it the old fashioned way.

    Hold something dark in front of the lens, open the shutter by pressing the
    button. Wait for vibrations to die down and then remove the dark object
    which was in front of the lens. And vice versa when ready to end the
    exposure.

    It works for Digital and Film Cameras, but be aware that Digital have some
    peculiarities about very long exposures.

    Roy G
    Roy G, Jun 25, 2006
    #5
  6. Tim

    sid derra Guest

    "aussie bongo" <> wrote in message
    news:9CCng.15150$...
    >
    > "Bill" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    >> "Tim" <no > wrote:
    >>
    >>>I've been looking into long night time exposures and it looks as if my
    >>>only
    >>>option with this camera is to get a ML-L3 remote control

    >
    >
    > snipped
    >
    >
    >>>I assume you press it once to open and once to close the shutter when
    >>>it's
    >>>on the bulb setting in manual mode

    >>

    >
    >
    > i think you will find it is the same as the D50. you press the button and
    > have to hold it down all the time you are taking the shot.


    id have to double check with the d50 (too lazy to get out of bed right now
    :p), but on the d70 it definitely is NOT like this. press once to open,
    press again to close the shutter.
    sid derra, Jun 26, 2006
    #6
  7. Tim

    Guest

    Tim wrote:
    > Hi
    >
    > I've been looking into long night time exposures and it looks as if my only
    > option with this camera is to get a ML-L3 remote control
    >
    > I assume you press it once to open and once to close the shutter when it's
    > on the bulb setting in manual mode
    >
    > Can anyone tell me if this is right or are there better/different ways of
    > doing this
    >
    > TIA
    >
    > Tim


    You are correct, however the explanation of how to use the D70s in
    "Bulb" mode is on pgs 82-83 in the manual. And there is no cable
    release for this camera that I'm aware of. So you can either press the
    shutter release to open and then to close the shutter or use the ML-L3
    remote to open open and then release it. BTW, if you have a Vibration
    Reduction lens, turn off the VR feature or you will get noise in the
    exposure...I learned this the hard way.

    Some longer exposure shots w/ the D70s (not w/ remote, BTW):

    http://www.pbase.com/sirchandestroy/birmingham_at_night
    , Jun 27, 2006
    #7
  8. Tim

    Bill Guest

    wrote:

    >You are correct, however the explanation of how to use the D70s in
    >"Bulb" mode is on pgs 82-83 in the manual. And there is no cable
    >release for this camera that I'm aware of.


    FYI:

    The D70s model introduced a new cable release design that the older D70
    model lacked.
    Bill, Jun 27, 2006
    #8
  9. On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 19:27:36 GMT, in rec.photo.digital "Tim" <no
    > wrote:

    >Hi
    >
    >I've been looking into long night time exposures and it looks as if my only
    >option with this camera is to get a ML-L3 remote control
    >
    >I assume you press it once to open and once to close the shutter when it's
    >on the bulb setting in manual mode
    >
    >Can anyone tell me if this is right or are there better/different ways of
    >doing this


    Yes that is true. Also the D70s provides for the use of the MC-DC1 wired
    release as well, which the D70 does not.
    --
    Ed Ruf ()
    http://edwardgruf.com/Digital_Photography/General/index.html
    Ed Ruf (REPLY to E-MAIL IN SIG!), Jun 27, 2006
    #9
  10. Tim

    Tim Guest

    > On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 19:27:36 GMT, in rec.photo.digital "Tim" <no
    > > wrote:
    >
    >> Hi
    >>
    >> I've been looking into long night time exposures and it looks as if
    >> my only option with this camera is to get a ML-L3 remote control
    >>
    >> I assume you press it once to open and once to close the shutter
    >> when it's on the bulb setting in manual mode
    >>
    >> Can anyone tell me if this is right or are there better/different
    >> ways of doing this

    >
    > Yes that is true. Also the D70s provides for the use of the MC-DC1
    > wired release as well, which the D70 does not.


    Hi all

    Thanks for the replies, much appreciated

    Tim
    Tim, Jun 28, 2006
    #10
  11. "acl" <> wrote:

    >
    >a) Say you want a photo at ISO 100, 4min, f/5.6; take 8 photos at ISO
    >100, f/5.6, 30sec and add them (eg in photoshop you can layer them and
    >use Screen blending, which is close enough, or there are programs to
    >add them). The problem with this is that read noise may be amplified
    >(if it's patterned)


    How woudl that differ from taking one picture at 30 seconds and make 8
    layers out of it and add them
    ?

    Scott Peterson

    --
    Analyst to computer programmer:

    "You start coding. I'll go find out
    what they want."

    (314/728)
    Scott Peterson, Jul 2, 2006
    #11
  12. Tim

    acl Guest

    Scott Peterson wrote:
    > "acl" <> wrote:
    >
    > >
    > >a) Say you want a photo at ISO 100, 4min, f/5.6; take 8 photos at ISO
    > >100, f/5.6, 30sec and add them (eg in photoshop you can layer them and
    > >use Screen blending, which is close enough, or there are programs to
    > >add them). The problem with this is that read noise may be amplified
    > >(if it's patterned)

    >
    > How woudl that differ from taking one picture at 30 seconds and make 8
    > layers out of it and add them
    > ?



    The idea is that noise is random and therefore different in each photo,
    while the signal stays constant (and is the same and at the same
    position in each image).

    Think of it this way: Suppose that if I measure the length of
    something I will obtain a result with some measurement error. Assume
    also that this error is random (ie it's not that my ruler is
    incorrectly marked or something similar). Then, if I measure the length
    once, I may obtain a result of 11cm; the next time, 9.5cm; the next,
    10.2cm etc. Measuring many times and averaging them will probably give
    me a better estimate. It's the same thing.

    In fact, the noise in digital images is partly due to the particulate
    nature of light (it's made up of discrete photons), and partly due to
    noise in the electronics (eg thermal noise). These types of artifacts
    really are random, so a good way to get rid of them is to observe many
    times, ie take many photos and average them.
    acl, Jul 2, 2006
    #12
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