cleaning inside camera mirror ?

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by RJ45, Jun 4, 2005.

  1. RJ45

    RJ45 Guest

    HEllo,
    I have a brand NEW Pentax *ist DS.
    I Am satisfied of my camera.
    but changing from lens to another lens I accidentally
    made the internal mirror dirty with a dirt spot and it
    was not dust.
    I could clean it with a standard product to clean lenses and inside
    camera mirror but it was VERY HARD I took a long time.. I used a very very soft
    cloth to do it.
    IT can happen that the inside get dirty so here I want to make a
    question.
    Which is the proper way to clean the lenses and/or inside mirror of the
    cameras ? with which tools ?
    Can the internal mirror get damaged by products if using proper camera
    products ?
    Which is the best way to clean camera internals ?
    thanks

    Rick
     
    RJ45, Jun 4, 2005
    #1
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  2. Charles Schuler, Jun 4, 2005
    #2
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  3. RJ45

    Roy Guest

    "RJ45" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > HEllo,
    > I have a brand NEW Pentax *ist DS.
    > I Am satisfied of my camera.
    > but changing from lens to another lens I accidentally
    > made the internal mirror dirty with a dirt spot and it
    > was not dust.
    > I could clean it with a standard product to clean lenses and inside
    > camera mirror but it was VERY HARD I took a long time.. I used a very very
    > soft
    > cloth to do it.
    > IT can happen that the inside get dirty so here I want to make a
    > question.
    > Which is the proper way to clean the lenses and/or inside mirror of the
    > cameras ? with which tools ?
    > Can the internal mirror get damaged by products if using proper camera
    > products ?
    > Which is the best way to clean camera internals ?
    > thanks
    >
    > Rick
    >


    Hi there.

    The Reflex Mirror is different from almost any other mirror you are going to
    come across. The reflective surface is ON TOP of the Glass, not below it.
    It is incredibly easy to damage it.

    The normal rule is Do Not touch It with anything.

    If it gets very dusty, use a blower, without the brush. Dirt marks on the
    mirror are usually so out of focus that they will not affect your viewfinder
    image. If you must touch it, then a clean artists sable brush should be
    used, and used very gently.

    Point the lens opening downwards when changing lenses to avoid dirt getting
    inside.

    The best way to clean camera interiors, is with a miniature vacuum, (the
    kind that runs on 1 AA or the little 9V battery), without letting the end
    of the suction tube touch anything. The Shutter Blades are also very easy
    to damage, and replacing a shutter mechanism is expensive.

    Roy G
     
    Roy, Jun 5, 2005
    #3
  4. RJ45

    Don Guest

    Have a look at these sites:

    http://194.100.88.243/petteri/pont/How_to/a_Brush_Your_Sensor/a_Brush_Your_Sensor.html
    http://www.visibledust.com/

    Would be interested in other comments from the group once they have read the
    two/three articles about this. I was about to plunk out about $150 (CD)
    when I read Petteri's pontifications. Now I am further confused.

    regards

    Don from Down Under
    "Roy" <> wrote in message
    news:LBqoe.3006$...
    > "RJ45" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    >> HEllo,
    >> I have a brand NEW Pentax *ist DS.
    >> I Am satisfied of my camera.
    >> but changing from lens to another lens I accidentally
    >> made the internal mirror dirty with a dirt spot and it
    >> was not dust.
    >> I could clean it with a standard product to clean lenses and inside
    >> camera mirror but it was VERY HARD I took a long time.. I used a very
    >> very soft
    >> cloth to do it.
    >> IT can happen that the inside get dirty so here I want to make a
    >> question.
    >> Which is the proper way to clean the lenses and/or inside mirror of the
    >> cameras ? with which tools ?
    >> Can the internal mirror get damaged by products if using proper camera
    >> products ?
    >> Which is the best way to clean camera internals ?
    >> thanks
    >>
    >> Rick
    >>

    >
    > Hi there.
    >
    > The Reflex Mirror is different from almost any other mirror you are going
    > to come across. The reflective surface is ON TOP of the Glass, not below
    > it. It is incredibly easy to damage it.
    >
    > The normal rule is Do Not touch It with anything.
    >
    > If it gets very dusty, use a blower, without the brush. Dirt marks on the
    > mirror are usually so out of focus that they will not affect your
    > viewfinder image. If you must touch it, then a clean artists sable brush
    > should be used, and used very gently.
    >
    > Point the lens opening downwards when changing lenses to avoid dirt
    > getting inside.
    >
    > The best way to clean camera interiors, is with a miniature vacuum, (the
    > kind that runs on 1 AA or the little 9V battery), without letting the end
    > of the suction tube touch anything. The Shutter Blades are also very easy
    > to damage, and replacing a shutter mechanism is expensive.
    >
    > Roy G
    >
     
    Don, Jun 5, 2005
    #4
  5. RJ45

    JD Guest

    JD, Jun 5, 2005
    #5
  6. RJ45

    JD Guest

    "Don" <> a écrit dans le message de news:
    sAzoe.3235$...
    > Have a look at these sites:
    >
    > http://194.100.88.243/petteri/pont/How_to/a_Brush_Your_Sensor/a_Brush_Your_Sensor.html
    > http://www.visibledust.com/
    >
    > Would be interested in other comments from the group once they have read
    > the two/three articles about this. I was about to plunk out about $150
    > (CD) when I read Petteri's pontifications. Now I am further confused.
    >
    > regards
    >
    > Don from Down Under


    Sorry, I clicked on "send" instead of "paste"!...

    Don, I've been through all this myself, and after much hesitation my
    conclusions are:

    1. Clean your camera yourself (you'll save money, it only takes 3 minutes -
    photography is about taking photos for pleasure, not waiting for your camera
    to be returned). Cleaning is something that has to be done do on a regular
    basis and really, the only practical way is to do it yourself! It is nerves
    breaking the first time, but frankly, there's nothing to it except that
    legend and superstitions have already done their damage, together with
    greedy salespeople to make you believe that only a professional can do it.
    Not true if you have selected the appropriate tools.

    2. My solution was to buy a kit (sensor swabs and pecpads with the
    appropriate fluid). I think that next time I'll recycle the swabsticks by
    wrapping them with pecpads - it will be cheaper (haven'd deciede yeet as my
    supply of swabsticks is not exhausted).

    3. For info, follow this link: I've use it successfully prior to cleaning
    despite all the doom predicted to me.
    http://fovea.perso.cegetel.net/IonizerE.htm (anything that removes stactic
    electricity is a great idea, whether it is the method mentioned on the above
    link or charging a brush - this is next on my list of things to try).

    4. Use common sense: be gentle on your camera, use soft tools, don't scrub.
    The sensor is protected either by a varnish or a glass plate. I have used
    used compressed air successfully, though some people do not recommend it.
    Again, be sensible about the way you blow the air... (don't shake the can,
    hold it vertically, blow from a safe distance, in short bursts. Also, don't
    be a purist about dust (a lot of people complain that their camera comes
    back from cleaning with dust particles still on the sensor anyway).

    My last word of advice: BE SENSIBLE AND PRAGMATIC. It it works, it is the
    right way to do it, with all due respect to salesmen, purists, priests and
    witches to name a few.

    And above all, please keep us informed of your progress, we'll all benefit
    from your acquired knowledge.

    Jean (formerly from down under and missing it sometimes).
     
    JD, Jun 5, 2005
    #6
  7. RJ45

    SamSez Guest

    "Don" <> wrote in message
    news:sAzoe.3235$...
    >Have a look at these sites:
    >
    >http://194.100.88.243/petteri/pont/How_to/a_Brush_Your_Sensor/a_Brush_Your_Sens

    or.html
    >http://www.visibledust.com/
    >
    >Would be interested in other comments from the group once they have read the
    >two/three articles about this. I was about to plunk out about $150 (CD)
    >when I read Petteri's pontifications. Now I am further confused.
    >
    >regards


    1) my first cleaning was a walk-in while-u-wait at a well known east coast US
    repair-only shop that happens to be not far from where I live. It was done with
    their shop-air and a sensor swab with eclipse. It was not 100% effective (to my
    standards anyway), though it was a major improvement -- being the first cleaning
    since owning the camera and many lens changes along.

    2) I have since done cleanings myself with a foot-pump air supply, sensor swabs
    and eclipse. I have easily gotten results as good or better than the shop,
    though sensor swabs aren't exactly what I would call cheap. The foot pump still
    bothers me too, as there is nothing to keep dust -- or the stray spider for that
    matter! -- from being sucked in the inlet side and blasted against the mirror or
    sensor. But I don't know that I have the kind of $$$ to put a shop air system
    together of the quality of a dedicated repair shop.

    3) after reading the first link above, I think you will see me at one or more
    cosmetic counters today...

    quite interesting.
     
    SamSez, Jun 5, 2005
    #7
  8. RJ45

    Jer Guest

    SamSez wrote:

    > 2) I have since done cleanings myself with a foot-pump air supply, sensor swabs
    > and eclipse. I have easily gotten results as good or better than the shop,
    > though sensor swabs aren't exactly what I would call cheap. The foot pump still
    > bothers me too, as there is nothing to keep dust -- or the stray spider for that
    > matter! -- from being sucked in the inlet side and blasted against the mirror or
    > sensor. But I don't know that I have the kind of $$$ to put a shop air system
    > together of the quality of a dedicated repair shop.



    My little bench air supply (a recycled oil-free aquarium pump) lost it's
    input filter, so I fashioned one from a piece of scrap aluminum window
    screen, a large handful of replaceable cotton balls, a soup can, and a
    dab or two of silicone caulking compound.

    You sure there's not some place you could stuff a cotton ball or two?


    --
    jer
    email reply - I am not a 'ten'
     
    Jer, Jun 5, 2005
    #8
  9. SamSez <> wrote:

    : The foot pump still bothers me too, as there is nothing to keep dust --
    : or the stray spider for that matter! -- from being sucked in the inlet
    : side and blasted against the mirror or sensor. But I don't know that I
    : have the kind of $$$ to put a shop air system together of the quality
    : of a dedicated repair shop.

    For a quick fix for this worry, put some filter material over this inlet.
    Even some muslin cloth or other thin (lint free) cloth would help. Or you
    could get a furnace filter and tear it apart for the filter material. A
    piece big enough to cover (and slightly beyond) the inlet, taped securely
    all around, would reduce the chance of any particulate or wildlife
    contamination of the air supply. You can also purchase in line air filters
    that can be installed in the output line if you are still nervous about
    particulate contamination. It is highly recommended to keep the air
    pressure as low as possible as at high enough pressures, even microscopic
    particles can scratch or score sensitive surfaces. But if the PSI is kept
    as low as possible it would take a rather hefty particle size (relatively)
    to do damage.

    This is why I have a multi level cleaning routine. First I use a hand held
    squeeze bulb to get the easiest removed particles. If that does not get
    it, a super soft brush may dislodge or remove additional pieces (followed
    by another use of the bulb). Only if both of these methods fail would I
    even think of trying chemicals or compressed air. Either has a potential
    for harming the surface or even surrounding mechanicals. And some of this
    can be additive in nature. So one use will not have an appreciable
    detrimental effect, but 100 uses could cause noticable deterioration. So I
    do everything I can to reduce the need for cleaning, then use the most
    gentle cleaning possible to do the job. This should give me the longest
    life expectancy possible for my equipment. :)

    Randy

    ==========
    Randy Berbaum
    Champaign, IL
     
    Randy Berbaum, Jun 6, 2005
    #9
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