Canon 40D - what default settings would you change for general photography?

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by EAL, Jan 5, 2008.

  1. EAL

    EAL Guest

    The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    right now...

    For general shooting, I suppose (possibly after a few weeks) most
    would set the control dial to P.

    You might shoot raw, or not, depending on how much space you have left
    on the card.

    What about the default contrast/sharpness settings?

    Would you set a single focus point instead of 9?

    What about the flash sync speed... it's pretty annoying to have the
    shutter do a 1/2 sec exposure when you want a close-up of some object
    that is in some shady location.

    Other suggestions?

    Ed
    EAL, Jan 5, 2008
    #1
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  2. EAL

    Matt Ion Guest

    Re: Canon 40D - what default settings would you change for generalphotography?

    EAL wrote:
    > The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    > right now...


    Nice!

    > For general shooting, I suppose (possibly after a few weeks) most
    > would set the control dial to P.


    I did that with my 300D right out of the box.

    > You might shoot raw, or not, depending on how much space you have left
    > on the card.


    I'll usually shoot highest-quality, largest JPG, for ease of processing
    and workflow, and switch to RAW when the subject/desire/intent calls for
    it, particularly for landscapes, high-contrast or low-light scenes, and
    the like - places where I want to make use of the additional dynamic
    range provided by the RAW format.

    > What about the default contrast/sharpness settings?


    My rule of thumb is to leave all these settings at "0" or default -
    these things are easy to tweak in software, and it's better to NOT have
    the camera apply excessive processing first. Remember, it's much harder
    to UNDO something the camera has done to the picture, than to simply do
    it manually later.

    > Would you set a single focus point instead of 9?


    That would depend entirely on what I'm shooting. I'll usually use all 7
    of my 300D's focus points - the camera can often be aimed to "encourage"
    a particular point to lock on, and holding focus-lock then allows me to
    recompose. There are rare times I'll select a specific focus point, but
    I find making the change usually consumes more time than it's worth, and
    can screw me up later if I forget to set it back. In fact, I'm more
    likely to simply switch to manual focus than to select one specific
    focus point.

    > What about the flash sync speed... it's pretty annoying to have the
    > shutter do a 1/2 sec exposure when you want a close-up of some object
    > that is in some shady location.


    That, too, will vary with the situation. Sometimes you want a slow
    shutter sync, to get particular effects. Sometimes you want it faster
    to reduce or virtually eliminate the effect of ambient light.

    > Other suggestions?


    Take a course - community college, online, or whatever suits you - in
    basic photography. It doesn't need to be a digital-specific course,
    just something that teaches the theory and application behind concepts
    such as exposure, exposure compensation, depth-of-field, adjusting
    shutter and aperture for different purposes, and so on. A good grasp on
    the basics will make it easier to see and understand what's happening
    when you choose various settings, and determine what settings to use to
    achieve a particular outcome.
    Matt Ion, Jan 5, 2008
    #2
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  3. EAL

    Neil Ellwood Guest

    Re: Canon 40D - what default settings would you change for generalphotography?

    On Sat, 05 Jan 2008 04:00:56 +0000, EAL wrote:

    > The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    > right now...
    >
    > For general shooting, I suppose (possibly after a few weeks) most would
    > set the control dial to P.
    >
    > You might shoot raw, or not, depending on how much space you have left
    > on the card.
    >
    > What about the default contrast/sharpness settings?
    >
    > Would you set a single focus point instead of 9?
    >
    > What about the flash sync speed... it's pretty annoying to have the
    > shutter do a 1/2 sec exposure when you want a close-up of some object
    > that is in some shady location.
    >
    > Other suggestions?
    >
    > Ed


    My suggestion would be to go to your local lending library and borrow a
    couple of books on photography, study them and then go out and practice.

    --
    Neil
    reverse ra and delete l
    Linux user 335851
    Neil Ellwood, Jan 5, 2008
    #3
  4. EAL

    Warren Guest

    "Neil Ellwood" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > On Sat, 05 Jan 2008 04:00:56 +0000, EAL wrote:
    >
    >> The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    >> right now...
    >>
    >> For general shooting, I suppose (possibly after a few weeks) most would
    >> set the control dial to P.
    >>
    >> You might shoot raw, or not, depending on how much space you have left
    >> on the card.
    >>
    >> What about the default contrast/sharpness settings?
    >>
    >> Would you set a single focus point instead of 9?
    >>
    >> What about the flash sync speed... it's pretty annoying to have the
    >> shutter do a 1/2 sec exposure when you want a close-up of some object
    >> that is in some shady location.
    >>
    >> Other suggestions?
    >>
    >> Ed

    >
    > My suggestion would be to go to your local lending library and borrow a
    > couple of books on photography, study them and then go out and practice.
    >
    > --
    > Neil
    > reverse ra and delete l
    > Linux user 335851


    When I got my first SLR (actually a DSLR) I bought "Understanding Exposure"
    by Bryan Peterson. Very helpful.

    Warren
    Warren, Jan 5, 2008
    #4
  5. EAL

    Tony Polson Guest

    Neil Ellwood <> wrote:

    >My suggestion would be to go to your local lending library and borrow a
    >couple of books on photography, study them and then go out and practice.



    That's heresy!

    Everyone on Usenet knows that the best way to improve your photography
    is to buy more expensive equipment and use it in Program mode.

    </irony>
    Tony Polson, Jan 5, 2008
    #5
  6. EAL

    Mark B. Guest

    "EAL" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    > right now...
    >


    I have the 30D, but the questions you asked apply to both...

    > For general shooting, I suppose (possibly after a few weeks) most
    > would set the control dial to P.
    >


    Nope, I shoot Av most of the time.


    > You might shoot raw, or not, depending on how much space you have left
    > on the card.
    >


    I shoot raw 99% of the time.

    > What about the default contrast/sharpness settings?
    >


    Not necessary with raw.

    > Would you set a single focus point instead of 9?
    >


    I leave it on the center, and move it to one of the other points when
    necessary.

    > What about the flash sync speed... it's pretty annoying to have the
    > shutter do a 1/2 sec exposure when you want a close-up of some object
    > that is in some shady location.
    >


    When shooting flash indoors or shade, I put the camera in Manual and let the
    flash expose automatically. In well-lit situations when I just want flash
    for fill, I'm usually shooting in Av and I'll usually dial in a negative
    flash exposure compensation.


    > Other suggestions?
    >


    Experiment - there's no film to waste, just your time :) Really, the best
    way to learn is to play around with the settings to see what works. There
    is no single setting that works in all situations.


    Mark
    Mark B., Jan 5, 2008
    #6
  7. EAL

    Shawn Hirn Guest

    In article <>,
    EAL <> wrote:

    > The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    > right now...
    >
    > For general shooting, I suppose (possibly after a few weeks) most
    > would set the control dial to P.
    >
    > You might shoot raw, or not, depending on how much space you have left
    > on the card.
    >
    > What about the default contrast/sharpness settings?
    >
    > Would you set a single focus point instead of 9?
    >
    > What about the flash sync speed... it's pretty annoying to have the
    > shutter do a 1/2 sec exposure when you want a close-up of some object
    > that is in some shady location.
    >
    > Other suggestions?
    >
    > Ed


    Its a digital camera so experiment with the settings you like best.
    There is no right or wrong answer. Me? I would leave the camera on the
    default settings for most shots, and just adjust shutter and aperture as
    needed, and also shoot in the highest resolution jpeg.
    Shawn Hirn, Jan 5, 2008
    #7
  8. EAL

    EAL Guest

    On Sat, 05 Jan 2008 00:41:19 -0600, Neil Ellwood
    <> wrote:

    >On Sat, 05 Jan 2008 04:00:56 +0000, EAL wrote:
    >
    >> The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    >> right now...
    >>
    >> For general shooting, I suppose (possibly after a few weeks) most would
    >> set the control dial to P.
    >>
    >> You might shoot raw, or not, depending on how much space you have left
    >> on the card.
    >>
    >> What about the default contrast/sharpness settings?
    >>
    >> Would you set a single focus point instead of 9?
    >>
    >> What about the flash sync speed... it's pretty annoying to have the
    >> shutter do a 1/2 sec exposure when you want a close-up of some object
    >> that is in some shady location.
    >>
    >> Other suggestions?
    >>
    >> Ed

    >
    >My suggestion would be to go to your local lending library and borrow a
    >couple of books on photography, study them and then go out and practice.


    Yah, excellent advice, albeit idealistic... myself, I've already read
    a couple of them, and shot a Rebel for 2 years before buying the 40D.

    I find it puzzling that the 40D, a fairly advanced camera, is
    seemingly designed for the point-and-shooter, with all those basic
    settings on the control dial, and many presets in the creative
    settings that again suggest a user who isn't going to do any
    post-processing.

    So, I'm getting control of the machine by setting it to my
    preferences, but am hesitating in some cases, wondering if it is the
    best way or wondering what I might be losing in order to gain
    something else.

    That's why I was asking what others do.

    Back to your advice to read... how many people go to the library and
    sit down to study a couple of photography books before using a
    brand-new 40D?

    And for that matter, how many of them would understand what they are
    reading without having experience with the camera?

    Ed
    EAL, Jan 5, 2008
    #8
  9. EAL

    EAL Guest

    On Sat, 5 Jan 2008 08:53:39 -0500, "Mark B."
    <> wrote:

    >"EAL" <> wrote in message
    >news:...
    >> The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    >> right now...
    >>

    >
    >I have the 30D, but the questions you asked apply to both...
    >
    >> For general shooting, I suppose (possibly after a few weeks) most
    >> would set the control dial to P.

    >
    >Nope, I shoot Av most of the time.


    That suggests indoor shooting with an external flash, or situations
    where DOF is important, plus you are not going to use the main dial.

    Whether you shoot P, Tv or Av makes no difference to the picture you
    end up taking, assuming you DO use the main dial, because all three
    modes will give the same shutter and aperture settings.

    >
    >> You might shoot raw, or not, depending on how much space you have left
    >> on the card.

    >
    >I shoot raw 99% of the time.


    Might not be an option if your CF card is nearing its capacity.

    >
    >> What about the default contrast/sharpness settings?

    >
    >Not necessary with raw.
    >
    >> Would you set a single focus point instead of 9?
    >>

    >
    >I leave it on the center, and move it to one of the other points when
    >necessary.
    >
    >> What about the flash sync speed... it's pretty annoying to have the
    >> shutter do a 1/2 sec exposure when you want a close-up of some object
    >> that is in some shady location.
    >>

    >
    >When shooting flash indoors or shade, I put the camera in Manual and let the
    >flash expose automatically. In well-lit situations when I just want flash
    >for fill, I'm usually shooting in Av and I'll usually dial in a negative
    >flash exposure compensation.


    Good suggestions on using flash.

    >
    >> Other suggestions?
    >>

    >
    >Experiment - there's no film to waste, just your time :) Really, the best
    >way to learn is to play around with the settings to see what works. There
    >is no single setting that works in all situations.


    Yes, to a point. Properly done experiments are very time consuming.
    I've taken hundreds of shots just testing the autofocus on a previous
    camera. If you set out to experiment with such things as noise levels
    at different ISOs, comparing in-camera sharpening with P-P sharpening,
    diddling with exposure levels to improve dynamic range, and so on, you
    will spend weeks on it. Smart people learn from what others have done
    if the info is available. I would rather be taking pictures.

    Ed
    EAL, Jan 5, 2008
    #9
  10. EAL

    Mark B. Guest

    "EAL" <> wrote in message
    news:p...
    > On Sat, 5 Jan 2008 08:53:39 -0500, "Mark B."
    > <> wrote:
    >
    >>"EAL" <> wrote in message
    >>news:...
    >>> The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    >>> right now...
    >>>

    >>
    >>I have the 30D, but the questions you asked apply to both...
    >>
    >>> For general shooting, I suppose (possibly after a few weeks) most
    >>> would set the control dial to P.

    >>
    >>Nope, I shoot Av most of the time.

    >
    > That suggests indoor shooting with an external flash, or situations
    > where DOF is important, plus you are not going to use the main dial.
    >
    > Whether you shoot P, Tv or Av makes no difference to the picture you
    > end up taking, assuming you DO use the main dial, because all three
    > modes will give the same shutter and aperture settings.
    >


    See below - indoors I typically shoot manual with external flash - I start
    at 1/60, f/5.6, and ISO 400. I'll shoot lower ISO if possible, and adjust
    the aperture and shutter speed if necessary.

    >>
    >>> You might shoot raw, or not, depending on how much space you have left
    >>> on the card.

    >>
    >>I shoot raw 99% of the time.

    >
    > Might not be an option if your CF card is nearing its capacity.
    >


    Never been a problem with a pair of 2GB cards (along with a couple 1GB) and
    a portable storage device, though I haven't had to dump to the psd too
    often. On the 40D, I'd go with a pair of 4GB cards. Cards are too cheap
    not to have enough.

    >>
    >>> What about the default contrast/sharpness settings?

    >>
    >>Not necessary with raw.
    >>
    >>> Would you set a single focus point instead of 9?
    >>>

    >>
    >>I leave it on the center, and move it to one of the other points when
    >>necessary.
    >>
    >>> What about the flash sync speed... it's pretty annoying to have the
    >>> shutter do a 1/2 sec exposure when you want a close-up of some object
    >>> that is in some shady location.
    >>>


    Go to manual exposure, and bump the ISO to 400 - higher if necessary.

    >>
    >>When shooting flash indoors or shade, I put the camera in Manual and let
    >>the
    >>flash expose automatically. In well-lit situations when I just want flash
    >>for fill, I'm usually shooting in Av and I'll usually dial in a negative
    >>flash exposure compensation.

    >
    > Good suggestions on using flash.
    >
    >>
    >>> Other suggestions?
    >>>

    >>
    >>Experiment - there's no film to waste, just your time :) Really, the
    >>best
    >>way to learn is to play around with the settings to see what works. There
    >>is no single setting that works in all situations.

    >
    > Yes, to a point. Properly done experiments are very time consuming.
    > I've taken hundreds of shots just testing the autofocus on a previous
    > camera. If you set out to experiment with such things as noise levels
    > at different ISOs, comparing in-camera sharpening with P-P sharpening,
    > diddling with exposure levels to improve dynamic range, and so on, you
    > will spend weeks on it. Smart people learn from what others have done
    > if the info is available. I would rather be taking pictures.
    >
    > Ed


    I do a bit of both.


    Good luck,
    Mark
    Mark B., Jan 5, 2008
    #10
  11. In rec.photo.digital.slr-systems EAL <> wrote:

    > I find it puzzling that the 40D, a fairly advanced camera, is
    > seemingly designed for the point-and-shooter, with all those basic
    > settings on the control dial,


    The DSLR beginner is well advised to avoid these settings, in order to
    learn the basics of manual control. Once that's been done, he is then
    in a position to start learning how to be able to take proper
    advantage of those "basic" settings. Hopefully by that time he has
    gained enough technical confidence not to be embarrassed by being seen
    to use a camera setting that a P&S user would use :)

    --
    Chris Malcolm DoD #205
    IPAB, Informatics, JCMB, King's Buildings, Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK
    [http://www.dai.ed.ac.uk/homes/cam/]
    Chris Malcolm, Jan 6, 2008
    #11
  12. EAL <> wrote:

    > The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    > right now...

    [What settings to use]

    My "default" settings: (20D)
    - RAW only
    - AWB (not too important, since I use RAW anyway, seldom
    changed)
    - AI Focus
    - continous shooting
    - Matrix metering
    - Flash 1/3rd stop underexposure
    - no exposure compensation
    - AF field: Center only (changed for flash shooting since E-TTL(2)
    considers the active AF field as important, so focus&recompose
    is a bad idea there)
    - ISO 400 (changed as needed to 1600, or in rare cases to
    100/200)
    - Tv preset to 1/80s (I might change that to higher speeds
    some day)
    - Av preset to f/5.6
    - M preset to 1/250s f/5.6 (for flash use, mostly, or when
    unchanged light conditions are expected and overexposure due
    to small area reflections might be a problem --- eg polished
    metal under clear sky.)
    - P on the dial --- for these quick-quick shots, otherwise I may
    as likely use Av or Tv, though I have learned that P usually
    strikes a good balance between aperture and exposure --- usually
    going earlier to fast exposures than I do, and, it turns out,
    rightly so.
    - SET button to "change parameters" => PA-1 -> all default
    (0 == middle) --- very rarely used
    - Long Exposure noise reduction (dark frame substraction) ON
    - Flash sync speed in Av: AUTO (I use M if I want something
    else)
    - Shutter halfpressed activates AE-lock, not AF + AE-lock;
    AE-lock button activates AF, not AE-lock
    - AF-assist: external flash only (no ugly AF-flashes from
    internal flash unit)
    - Exposure in 1/3rd stops
    - Flash fires (I change that if I use the flash for AF-assist
    only)
    - ISO expansion (H/3200): OFF (my ISO 3200 is ISO 1600 + 1 stop
    underexposure + 1 stop push in postprocessing, which gives the
    same image (the camera also just pushes 1 stop for ISO 3200),
    but keeps an extra stop for highlights.
    - Bracketing: 0, -, +, no auto cancel (used with AEB set to
    somewhere between +/-1 and +/-2 stops for HDR, if needed)
    - Superimposed display ON (lights relevant AF field(s) in
    viewfinder)
    - Menu: previous entry (so I can jump back and there again)
    - Mirror lockup disabled (I enable it sometimes for tripod
    exposures)
    - AF selection NORMAL (no quick selection shortcut)
    - E-TTL II evaluative (not average), so that reflections can
    be ignored
    - Shutter: 2nd curtain (but with flashes that can set that
    themselves (e.g. 550EX) you need to tell the flash or it
    will be ignored!
    Doesn't work with Canon's Master-Slave (IR) multi-flash
    system --- probably due to good technical reasons (you'd
    need an accurate clock in the slaves --- and it still
    wouldn't work correctly work with "bulb"!)
    - Safety shift on Av and Tv ON (i.e. if I set 1/1000s, and
    it's too dark (or too bright) to compensate with the
    aperture, even wide open, the camera reduces my time preset
    as a last resort)
    - Lens AF stop button function: Default AF stop (since I
    don't have such a lens, it doesn't matter to me).
    - Add original decision data: ON
    (This is a fingerprint of the image + EXIF (MD5), encrypted
    (SHA1) with a camera key. The "data verification kit" contains
    a smart card[1] that also can do these steps, so it can prove the
    originality of the data --- and the handful bytes is completely
    invisible in the MBs of image. Since it costs me practically
    nothing and may one day be very important ...)
    - 50mm f/1.4 with lenshood in normal position, lenscap on (I
    very often change that often to whatever lens I want to use,
    but this combination fits best into my camera bag and it's
    my low-light lens (and I do lots of available light shots),
    so I think it a good compromise.
    - battery grip attached with 2 LiIon batteries (always there)
    - neckstrap attached to camera (left) and battry grip (right).


    I take care to reset the camera to these settings (mostly ISO,
    M/Av/Tv presets, set to P), so I can kind-of use the camera blind
    and know what the camera is set to when I pull it from the bag).

    -Wolfgang

    [1] the implementation in hardware makes the secret camera key(s)
    extremely harder to 'steal' compared to a software program that
    can easily be inspected and observed, especially when it runs.
    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Jan 9, 2008
    #12
  13. EAL

    EAL Guest

    Thanks! Pls see comments within.

    On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 20:03:29 +0100, Wolfgang Weisselberg
    <> wrote:

    >EAL <> wrote:
    >
    >> The question would apply to many cameras, but I'm playing with my 40D
    >> right now...

    >[What settings to use]
    >
    >My "default" settings: (20D)
    >- RAW only
    >- AWB (not too important, since I use RAW anyway, seldom
    > changed)
    >- AI Focus


    OK, AI focus changes automatically to AI Servo when the subject starts
    moving... but AI Servo isn't going to change focus if the subject is
    stationary, and also changes only if the subject moves... so it seems
    AI Focus and AI Servo are really the same... or can that be? What's
    the diff?

    >- continous shooting
    >- Matrix metering
    >- Flash 1/3rd stop underexposure


    I presume this is when using flash for fill.

    >- no exposure compensation
    >- AF field: Center only (changed for flash shooting since E-TTL(2)
    > considers the active AF field as important, so focus&recompose
    > is a bad idea there)


    Probably would make it a *good* idea...

    >- ISO 400 (changed as needed to 1600, or in rare cases to
    > 100/200)
    >- Tv preset to 1/80s (I might change that to higher speeds
    > some day)
    >- Av preset to f/5.6
    >- M preset to 1/250s f/5.6 (for flash use, mostly, or when
    > unchanged light conditions are expected and overexposure due
    > to small area reflections might be a problem --- eg polished
    > metal under clear sky.)
    >- P on the dial --- for these quick-quick shots, otherwise I may
    > as likely use Av or Tv, though I have learned that P usually
    > strikes a good balance between aperture and exposure --- usually
    > going earlier to fast exposures than I do, and, it turns out,
    > rightly so.


    Some of the points below I have to think about some more.

    >- SET button to "change parameters" => PA-1 -> all default
    > (0 == middle) --- very rarely used
    >- Long Exposure noise reduction (dark frame substraction) ON
    >- Flash sync speed in Av: AUTO (I use M if I want something
    > else)
    >- Shutter halfpressed activates AE-lock, not AF + AE-lock;
    > AE-lock button activates AF, not AE-lock
    >- AF-assist: external flash only (no ugly AF-flashes from
    > internal flash unit)
    >- Exposure in 1/3rd stops
    >- Flash fires (I change that if I use the flash for AF-assist
    > only)
    >- ISO expansion (H/3200): OFF (my ISO 3200 is ISO 1600 + 1 stop
    > underexposure + 1 stop push in postprocessing, which gives the
    > same image (the camera also just pushes 1 stop for ISO 3200),
    > but keeps an extra stop for highlights.
    >- Bracketing: 0, -, +, no auto cancel (used with AEB set to
    > somewhere between +/-1 and +/-2 stops for HDR, if needed)
    >- Superimposed display ON (lights relevant AF field(s) in
    > viewfinder)
    >- Menu: previous entry (so I can jump back and there again)
    >- Mirror lockup disabled (I enable it sometimes for tripod
    > exposures)
    >- AF selection NORMAL (no quick selection shortcut)
    >- E-TTL II evaluative (not average), so that reflections can
    > be ignored
    >- Shutter: 2nd curtain (but with flashes that can set that
    > themselves (e.g. 550EX) you need to tell the flash or it
    > will be ignored!
    > Doesn't work with Canon's Master-Slave (IR) multi-flash
    > system --- probably due to good technical reasons (you'd
    > need an accurate clock in the slaves --- and it still
    > wouldn't work correctly work with "bulb"!)
    >- Safety shift on Av and Tv ON (i.e. if I set 1/1000s, and
    > it's too dark (or too bright) to compensate with the
    > aperture, even wide open, the camera reduces my time preset
    > as a last resort)
    >- Lens AF stop button function: Default AF stop (since I
    > don't have such a lens, it doesn't matter to me).
    >- Add original decision data: ON
    > (This is a fingerprint of the image + EXIF (MD5), encrypted
    > (SHA1) with a camera key. The "data verification kit" contains
    > a smart card[1] that also can do these steps, so it can prove the
    > originality of the data --- and the handful bytes is completely
    > invisible in the MBs of image. Since it costs me practically
    > nothing and may one day be very important ...)
    >- 50mm f/1.4 with lenshood in normal position, lenscap on (I
    > very often change that often to whatever lens I want to use,
    > but this combination fits best into my camera bag and it's
    > my low-light lens (and I do lots of available light shots),
    > so I think it a good compromise.
    >- battery grip attached with 2 LiIon batteries (always there)
    >- neckstrap attached to camera (left) and battry grip (right).
    >
    >
    >I take care to reset the camera to these settings (mostly ISO,
    >M/Av/Tv presets, set to P), so I can kind-of use the camera blind
    >and know what the camera is set to when I pull it from the bag).
    >
    >-Wolfgang
    >
    >[1] the implementation in hardware makes the secret camera key(s)
    > extremely harder to 'steal' compared to a software program that
    > can easily be inspected and observed, especially when it runs.
    EAL, Jan 10, 2008
    #13
  14. ["Followup-To:" header set to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems.]

    EAL <> wrote:
    > On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 20:03:29 +0100, Wolfgang Weisselberg


    > OK, AI focus changes automatically to AI Servo when the subject starts
    > moving... but AI Servo isn't going to change focus if the subject is
    > stationary, and also changes only if the subject moves... so it seems
    > AI Focus and AI Servo are really the same... or can that be? What's
    > the diff?


    AI Servo does not do AF-assist and is exposure priority (i.e.
    shutter goes off even while the AF is still working) and more
    things like "tracking" and "predictive AF" (where should the AF
    focus to, based on the observed motion of the subject?)-

    AI Focus is basically an "intelligent" switching between One Shot
    (default) and AI Servo. Though I'll set AI Servo for sports
    rather than rely on AI Focus for each shot.

    >>- continous shooting
    >>- Matrix metering
    >>- Flash 1/3rd stop underexposure


    > I presume this is when using flash for fill.


    Nope, for that I'd use -2 stops (or rely on the flash automatic,
    depending on brightness). I just feel that my flash
    sometimes flashes a bit stronger than I want it.

    >>- no exposure compensation
    >>- AF field: Center only (changed for flash shooting since E-TTL(2)
    >> considers the active AF field as important, so focus&recompose
    >> is a bad idea there)


    > Probably would make it a *good* idea...


    f&r does *not* work well with E-TTL, unless you use flash
    exposure lock.

    -Wolfgang
    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Jan 10, 2008
    #14
  15. EAL

    amalapaka

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2009
    Messages:
    1
    Canon 40D Settings Best suggesstion

    Please go to flickr dot com site groups 40d discussions search for member boldpuppy:
    This site does not permit inks.


    ISO - indoors = 1600 or 1250. Outdoors 100 or 200 (I'll shoot with HTP on a lot if there is a big dynamic range difference in my shots, so that's why 200, which will look like 2oo in the viewfinder with HTP on).

    AF mode = AI Focus.. almost all the time. I have moving subjects in almost every photo (and sometimes, what's moving is me, if I did not use a tripod).

    Metering mode = depends. Spot for tricky lighting, evaluative for most others.

    Shooting mode = also depends. M for tricky lighting, Av for most other shots, except for waterfall shots, where Tv is what I use.

    "Quality" = RAW for anything I might get paid for, sRAW for vacation shots.

    Red-Eye = Off... I never use the on-camera flash, and the off camera one almost never produces red-eye. If it does, I did something wrong.

    Beep = off. Why? I shoot a lot of animals, like horses and dogs. If there's a beep, that would distract them from the pose I'm trying to get...

    Shoot without card = off. I don't usually shoot tethered, which is what that's for.

    Review time = 4 seconds - I will sometimes turn this completely off to save battery. No chimping = >2500 shots on a charge...

    White balance = AWB, but it really doesn't matter, since I'm shooting in RAW anyway.

    Picture style = 'Normal'... I've never changed this, though I probably should, as I use 'Portrait' for almost everything. I rarely use "Landscape' and sometimes will use 'Monochrome'.

    Color space in the camera is set to sRGB, but again, that doesn't matter when you shoot RAW.

    After a cleaning of the sensor (with the rocket blower), I'll do a 'dust delete data'.... I can't get everything, and this will fine tune any dust cleaning.

    Highlight alert = Enable, some of the time, disabled the rest of the time. In some cases I just *know* that parts of the background are going to blow out, so why reinforce that? I can't always do something about that during an event. It does help, though, when you have time to review the shot (chimp), and examine the histogram to be sure that you've exposed the shot well.

    AF Point disp - again - sometimes it's on, but when I want to show the photo to others, it's very distracting - who wants to see a bright red box over their eye?

    My histogram is set for brightness first. Why? That's the default, and I've never needed to change it to RGB. If there is a LOT of red in the shot, you may want to look at the RGB histogram - to make sure you're not blowing out the red channel.

    Auto power off = 1 min. This thing comes back to life so fast, I don't mind it going off that quickly.

    File numbering = continuous

    Auto rotate = on for computer, not for camera. A portrait shot in vertical mode on the screen looks awful... why not just rotate the camera? Having that on for the computer, though, helps save me from having to rotate all the portrait shots...

    I have the info button on shooting functions.. I like to see those in one place.

    Video system is NTSC. I've done an output of the camera right to a TV - it looks horrible (Nikon got this one right...) as you're blowing up a thumbnail of the RAW file to a big TV. If you are in Asia, you'll want PAL.

    Live view function settings are that it's enabled, with the grid display on. Silent shooting is disabled (so I can shoot at 6fps in live view ...).

    I have some flash control functions set, but that applies only if you have a 480 or 580 flash.

    My custom functions are mostly set to default, except for:

    CF I-3:1 Iso Expansion = ON.
    CF I-5:1 Bracketing sequence = - 0 + ... that makes more sense to me when doing bracketed shots...
    CF I-6:1 Safety Shift = ON. Note that this works only in Tv and Av modes.

    CF II-1:1 Long Exposure Noise reduction = Auto. Just leave this on.. it won't hurt anything, and will help when you do long exposures.
    CF II-2:1 High ISO speed noise reduction = ON, when I shoot indoors or with higher than 200 ISO. This comes at a penalty to the maximum number of shots you can take in a row (buffer depth). When shooting RAW, this drops all the way to 6.
    CF II-3:1 Highlight tone priority = ON most of the time. If you shoot landscapes, you'll want this off, as it will increase shadow noise.

    CF III-3:2: AF point selection method is the quick control dial (the big dial in the back). I love this. You can also set the joystick to change AF points. My fat thumb seems to not be able to work the joystick very well, so the controller dial works the best for me.. I don't have to move the camera from my face to change the AF point. This is one of my favorite features of this camera.
    CF III-6:1 AF during live view: enable. You don't HAVE to use AF during live view, but it can help, if it can find the focus.

    I'll dink with CF IV if I want to play with custom metering. Since I'll just go to manual mode for weird lighting (or strong back lighting), I don't bother with CF IV-1.

    CF IV-7 may be of use if you use live view a lot - it will have the live view simulate the final exposure of the scene. Many find this valuable. Right now, it's off, but when I do lots of product shots, I may turn it on, if I'm having trouble with the exposure. Since those will be flash shots, exposure simulation doesn't work well, and I will typically not use this.
    amalapaka, Jan 25, 2009
    #15
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