brken mb battery clip

Discussion in 'A+ Certification' started by fhg, Jan 19, 2004.

  1. fhg

    fhg Guest

    IBM PC 300GL

    Broken motherboard battery clip. Big problem.

    I couldn't slide the battery out of it's holder sideways, so I lifted the
    clip up too far & it snapped right at its base.

    I've tried to hold it in contact position with some super/crazy glue and
    electrical tape. Which kinda worked for a while, but not permanently. Now
    after each shut down, the bios settings are lost & .I have to find a decent
    solution without replacing the motherboard ($$).

    I have just removed the entire motherboard to see how the battery holder is
    attached, and how I might be able to tackle the problem.

    Underneath the board there are two 'pins' soldered - one must lead from the
    clip (positive) and the other from the contact below the battery (negative).

    One option I considered was applying a little heat, with an electrical
    soldering iron, to these two points to free the entire battery holder? Maybe
    I can replace it.

    Another option is to try & solder the clip back in position. Problem is
    there is no stem protruding and I'd have to try & cut away a bit of the hard
    black plastic surrounding the base of the clip that remains below the
    surface. This would have to be done with the battery in position which has
    an explosive risk attached, and also the risk of dropping a bit of solder on
    the mb.

    Another thought was to take a bit of electric wire, strip the insulation and
    try to attach one end to the battery (tape or solder or glue) and try to
    wedge and/or solder or glue the other end to the remaining clip stem.
    Or attach the electrical wire to the battery and take it around to the
    bottom of the board to the point where the positive terminal solder
    point/pin from the clip is located? The battery holder is located near the
    edge of the mb so I could get some wire around.

    Has anyone had and solved this problem - let me know what you think my best
    avenue is - I gotta get this machine up and running again.

    I've heard of an epoxy type glue with metal content that is conductive ?

    --
    xx
     
    fhg, Jan 19, 2004
    #1
    1. Advertising

  2. fhg

    Ghost Guest

    In article <xrHOb.4418$>, "fhg"
    <_(notreal)> wrote:

    > IBM PC 300GL
    >
    > Broken motherboard battery clip. Big problem.
    >
    > I couldn't slide the battery out of it's holder sideways, so I lifted the
    > clip up too far & it snapped right at its base.
    >
    > I've tried to hold it in contact position with some super/crazy glue and
    > electrical tape. Which kinda worked for a while, but not permanently. Now
    > after each shut down, the bios settings are lost & .I have to find a decent
    > solution without replacing the motherboard ($$).
    >
    > I have just removed the entire motherboard to see how the battery holder is
    > attached, and how I might be able to tackle the problem.
    >
    > Underneath the board there are two 'pins' soldered - one must lead from the
    > clip (positive) and the other from the contact below the battery (negative).
    >
    > One option I considered was applying a little heat, with an electrical
    > soldering iron, to these two points to free the entire battery holder? Maybe
    > I can replace it.
    >
    > Another option is to try & solder the clip back in position. Problem is
    > there is no stem protruding and I'd have to try & cut away a bit of the hard
    > black plastic surrounding the base of the clip that remains below the
    > surface. This would have to be done with the battery in position which has
    > an explosive risk attached, and also the risk of dropping a bit of solder on
    > the mb.
    >
    > Another thought was to take a bit of electric wire, strip the insulation and
    > try to attach one end to the battery (tape or solder or glue) and try to
    > wedge and/or solder or glue the other end to the remaining clip stem.
    > Or attach the electrical wire to the battery and take it around to the
    > bottom of the board to the point where the positive terminal solder
    > point/pin from the clip is located? The battery holder is located near the
    > edge of the mb so I could get some wire around.
    >
    > Has anyone had and solved this problem - let me know what you think my best
    > avenue is - I gotta get this machine up and running again.
    >
    > I've heard of an epoxy type glue with metal content that is conductive ?
    >
    > --
    > xx




    Just replace the battery holder... generally there are just two solder
    points (+ and -).

    You might find a suitable replacement on some dead mobos you might have
    lying around...
     
    Ghost, Jan 19, 2004
    #2
    1. Advertising

  3. fhg

    fhg Guest


    > > IBM PC 300GL
    > >
    > > Broken motherboard battery clip. Big problem.
    > >
    > > I couldn't slide the battery out of it's holder sideways, so I lifted

    the
    > > clip up too far & it snapped right at its base.
    > >
    > > I've tried to hold it in contact position with some super/crazy glue and
    > > electrical tape. Which kinda worked for a while, but not permanently.

    Now
    > > after each shut down, the bios settings are lost & .I have to find a

    decent
    > > solution without replacing the motherboard ($$).
    > >
    > > I have just removed the entire motherboard to see how the battery holder

    is
    > > attached, and how I might be able to tackle the problem.
    > >
    > > Underneath the board there are two 'pins' soldered - one must lead from

    the
    > > clip (positive) and the other from the contact below the battery

    (negative).
    > >
    > > One option I considered was applying a little heat, with an electrical
    > > soldering iron, to these two points to free the entire battery holder?

    Maybe
    > > I can replace it.
    > >
    > > Another option is to try & solder the clip back in position. Problem is
    > > there is no stem protruding and I'd have to try & cut away a bit of the

    hard
    > > black plastic surrounding the base of the clip that remains below the
    > > surface. This would have to be done with the battery in position which

    has
    > > an explosive risk attached, and also the risk of dropping a bit of

    solder on
    > > the mb.
    > >
    > > Another thought was to take a bit of electric wire, strip the insulation

    and
    > > try to attach one end to the battery (tape or solder or glue) and try to
    > > wedge and/or solder or glue the other end to the remaining clip stem.
    > > Or attach the electrical wire to the battery and take it around to the
    > > bottom of the board to the point where the positive terminal solder
    > > point/pin from the clip is located? The battery holder is located near

    the
    > > edge of the mb so I could get some wire around.
    > >
    > > Has anyone had and solved this problem - let me know what you think my

    best
    > > avenue is - I gotta get this machine up and running again.
    > >
    > > I've heard of an epoxy type glue with metal content that is conductive ?
    > >
    > > --
    > > xx

    >
    >
    >
    > Just replace the battery holder... generally there are just two solder
    > points (+ and -).
    >
    > You might find a suitable replacement on some dead mobos you might have
    > lying around...


    I've only done an electric solder once before - plumbing is more what I'm
    used to :)
    The two solder points on the underside of the board - one looks like it
    comes from the bottom of the battery and the other looks like it comes from
    the broken retaining clip stem. These are what you refer to -right ? If I
    apply heat to these they should loosen and allow the entire holder o come
    out ? And then if I find a replacement, push the two pins through the board
    and solder them on the underside ?
     
    fhg, Jan 19, 2004
    #3
  4. fhg

    hootnholler Guest

    Hi fhg,

    Just to relieve any issues that you have in doing this, it's not unlike
    sweating copper pipes. I'm an industrial technician and done both ;-)

    If you apply heat to the bottom of the posts, on the underside of the
    motherboard, you should be fine. If you start to see any discoloration on
    the motherboard, stop applying heat. Usually, these are manufactured with a
    solder 'paste', but a soldering iron is used to repair them. Try to use a
    fine tip on the iron, applied directly to the solder, and it should come out
    without any issue. If you notice any type of smoke, don't worry too much,
    that's usually just a small coating, or a flux that is applied after the
    'reflow' of the solder has been done. Just watch the board for any
    discoloration, to the organic material itself.

    When reapplying, make sure and use a form of flux. Around the holes, you
    should notice the 'solder pad' and try to use those as best as possible.
    That is actually the run, or the electrical contact that the battery needs.
    When done, look for any 'solder balls' (small spatter of solder from the
    initial heating) and remove. These can cause a short on the system, which
    will put you in deep doo doo. If needed, use a solder 'wick' (small, copper
    strand, usually found at most electrical sellers, like radio hut) to remove
    them. You just heat the wick and drag across the solder balls to remove.
    To tie to sweating, try to use the flux to 'drag' the flux around the
    connection and solder pads.

    Just like plumbing, get yourself setup, good lighting, firm work area. Take
    two deep breaths and have at it. Just remember, this is not silver solder,
    so you don't need quite that much heat...

    Hoot


    "fhg" <_(notreal)> wrote in message
    news:fvIOb.3687$...
    >
    > > > IBM PC 300GL
    > > >
    > > > Broken motherboard battery clip. Big problem.
    > > >
    > > > I couldn't slide the battery out of it's holder sideways, so I lifted

    > the
    > > > clip up too far & it snapped right at its base.
    > > >
    > > > I've tried to hold it in contact position with some super/crazy glue

    and
    > > > electrical tape. Which kinda worked for a while, but not permanently.

    > Now
    > > > after each shut down, the bios settings are lost & .I have to find a

    > decent
    > > > solution without replacing the motherboard ($$).
    > > >
    > > > I have just removed the entire motherboard to see how the battery

    holder
    > is
    > > > attached, and how I might be able to tackle the problem.
    > > >
    > > > Underneath the board there are two 'pins' soldered - one must lead

    from
    > the
    > > > clip (positive) and the other from the contact below the battery

    > (negative).
    > > >
    > > > One option I considered was applying a little heat, with an electrical
    > > > soldering iron, to these two points to free the entire battery holder?

    > Maybe
    > > > I can replace it.
    > > >
    > > > Another option is to try & solder the clip back in position. Problem

    is
    > > > there is no stem protruding and I'd have to try & cut away a bit of

    the
    > hard
    > > > black plastic surrounding the base of the clip that remains below the
    > > > surface. This would have to be done with the battery in position which

    > has
    > > > an explosive risk attached, and also the risk of dropping a bit of

    > solder on
    > > > the mb.
    > > >
    > > > Another thought was to take a bit of electric wire, strip the

    insulation
    > and
    > > > try to attach one end to the battery (tape or solder or glue) and try

    to
    > > > wedge and/or solder or glue the other end to the remaining clip stem.
    > > > Or attach the electrical wire to the battery and take it around to the
    > > > bottom of the board to the point where the positive terminal solder
    > > > point/pin from the clip is located? The battery holder is located near

    > the
    > > > edge of the mb so I could get some wire around.
    > > >
    > > > Has anyone had and solved this problem - let me know what you think my

    > best
    > > > avenue is - I gotta get this machine up and running again.
    > > >
    > > > I've heard of an epoxy type glue with metal content that is conductive

    ?
    > > >
    > > > --
    > > > xx

    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > Just replace the battery holder... generally there are just two solder
    > > points (+ and -).
    > >
    > > You might find a suitable replacement on some dead mobos you might have
    > > lying around...

    >
    > I've only done an electric solder once before - plumbing is more what I'm
    > used to :)
    > The two solder points on the underside of the board - one looks like it
    > comes from the bottom of the battery and the other looks like it comes

    from
    > the broken retaining clip stem. These are what you refer to -right ? If I
    > apply heat to these they should loosen and allow the entire holder o come
    > out ? And then if I find a replacement, push the two pins through the

    board
    > and solder them on the underside ?
    >
    >
     
    hootnholler, Jan 19, 2004
    #4
  5. I've found identical battery clips in old car radios and even in old VCR's.
    Like others have said if you're experienced in soldering/desoldering very
    easy to change but if not you can ruin it.

    --

    Kenny

    "Cigarettes are killers that travel in packs."


    "Barry Watzman" <> wrote in message
    news:QxJOb.20914$...
    > First, a warning: Do not try to solder directly to a Lithium battery,
    > you can cause a SERIOUS explosion with the potential do quite a bit of
    > damage (you could lose a hand). Lithim can be dangerous stuff under the
    > wrong circumstances, and heating to 600 degrees is DEFINITELY the
    > "wrong" circumstances.
    >
    > The battery holder can be replaced. It's thru-hole soldered to the
    > board, and not too difficult for a good electronics technician to remove
    > (whether that group includes you or not, I can't say). You will have to
    > find a matching socket, that also should not be too difficult, there are
    > only a few standard hole patterns, in fact some motherboards have holes
    > for several types of sockets. One possibility is to buy a junk
    > motherboard -- often sold at computer shows for about $5 -- and remove
    > the socket, you may find a socket at radio shack, or you can find them
    > at industrial electronics distributors. If you get a socket that holds
    > the battery but doesn't fit the motherboard, then you could use wires to
    > connect the socket to the motherboard.
    >
    >
    > fhg wrote:
    >
    > > IBM PC 300GL
    > >
    > > Broken motherboard battery clip. Big problem.
    > >
    > > I couldn't slide the battery out of it's holder sideways, so I lifted

    the
    > > clip up too far & it snapped right at its base.
    > >
    > > I've tried to hold it in contact position with some super/crazy glue and
    > > electrical tape. Which kinda worked for a while, but not permanently.

    Now
    > > after each shut down, the bios settings are lost & .I have to find a

    decent
    > > solution without replacing the motherboard ($$).
    > >
    > > I have just removed the entire motherboard to see how the battery holder

    is
    > > attached, and how I might be able to tackle the problem.
    > >
    > > Underneath the board there are two 'pins' soldered - one must lead from

    the
    > > clip (positive) and the other from the contact below the battery

    (negative).
    > >
    > > One option I considered was applying a little heat, with an electrical
    > > soldering iron, to these two points to free the entire battery holder?

    Maybe
    > > I can replace it.
    > >
    > > Another option is to try & solder the clip back in position. Problem is
    > > there is no stem protruding and I'd have to try & cut away a bit of the

    hard
    > > black plastic surrounding the base of the clip that remains below the
    > > surface. This would have to be done with the battery in position which

    has
    > > an explosive risk attached, and also the risk of dropping a bit of

    solder on
    > > the mb.
    > >
    > > Another thought was to take a bit of electric wire, strip the insulation

    and
    > > try to attach one end to the battery (tape or solder or glue) and try to
    > > wedge and/or solder or glue the other end to the remaining clip stem.
    > > Or attach the electrical wire to the battery and take it around to the
    > > bottom of the board to the point where the positive terminal solder
    > > point/pin from the clip is located? The battery holder is located near

    the
    > > edge of the mb so I could get some wire around.
    > >
    > > Has anyone had and solved this problem - let me know what you think my

    best
    > > avenue is - I gotta get this machine up and running again.
    > >
    > > I've heard of an epoxy type glue with metal content that is conductive ?
    > >
    > > --
    > > xx
    > >
    > >

    >
     
    Kenny Cargill, Jan 19, 2004
    #5
  6. fhg

    Ghost Guest

    In article <fvIOb.3687$>, "fhg"
    <_(notreal)> wrote:

    > > > IBM PC 300GL
    > > >
    > > > Broken motherboard battery clip. Big problem.
    > > >
    > > > I couldn't slide the battery out of it's holder sideways, so I lifted

    > the
    > > > clip up too far & it snapped right at its base.
    > > >
    > > > I've tried to hold it in contact position with some super/crazy glue and
    > > > electrical tape. Which kinda worked for a while, but not permanently.

    > Now
    > > > after each shut down, the bios settings are lost & .I have to find a

    > decent
    > > > solution without replacing the motherboard ($$).
    > > >
    > > > I have just removed the entire motherboard to see how the battery holder

    > is
    > > > attached, and how I might be able to tackle the problem.
    > > >
    > > > Underneath the board there are two 'pins' soldered - one must lead from

    > the
    > > > clip (positive) and the other from the contact below the battery

    > (negative).
    > > >
    > > > One option I considered was applying a little heat, with an electrical
    > > > soldering iron, to these two points to free the entire battery holder?

    > Maybe
    > > > I can replace it.
    > > >
    > > > Another option is to try & solder the clip back in position. Problem is
    > > > there is no stem protruding and I'd have to try & cut away a bit of the

    > hard
    > > > black plastic surrounding the base of the clip that remains below the
    > > > surface. This would have to be done with the battery in position which

    > has
    > > > an explosive risk attached, and also the risk of dropping a bit of

    > solder on
    > > > the mb.
    > > >
    > > > Another thought was to take a bit of electric wire, strip the insulation

    > and
    > > > try to attach one end to the battery (tape or solder or glue) and try to
    > > > wedge and/or solder or glue the other end to the remaining clip stem.
    > > > Or attach the electrical wire to the battery and take it around to the
    > > > bottom of the board to the point where the positive terminal solder
    > > > point/pin from the clip is located? The battery holder is located near

    > the
    > > > edge of the mb so I could get some wire around.
    > > >
    > > > Has anyone had and solved this problem - let me know what you think my

    > best
    > > > avenue is - I gotta get this machine up and running again.
    > > >
    > > > I've heard of an epoxy type glue with metal content that is conductive ?
    > > >
    > > > --
    > > > xx

    > >
    > >
    > >
    > > Just replace the battery holder... generally there are just two solder
    > > points (+ and -).
    > >
    > > You might find a suitable replacement on some dead mobos you might have
    > > lying around...

    >
    > I've only done an electric solder once before - plumbing is more what I'm
    > used to :)
    > The two solder points on the underside of the board - one looks like it
    > comes from the bottom of the battery and the other looks like it comes from
    > the broken retaining clip stem. These are what you refer to -right ? If I
    > apply heat to these they should loosen and allow the entire holder o come
    > out ? And then if I find a replacement, push the two pins through the board
    > and solder them on the underside ?


    Essentially, correct.. but be careful not to apply too much heat or you
    will destroy the mobo...
     
    Ghost, Jan 19, 2004
    #6
  7. fhg

    fhg Guest

    removing the old one sounds easy enough - heat the two points on the
    underside and lift the holder up & out.
    However, replacing a new one and soldering the points back to ensure the
    contact with the mb circuitry (pad, run, balls, wick......... yikes !

    --
    xx
    "hootnholler" <> wrote in message
    news:%XIOb.39562$-kc.rr.com...
    > Hi fhg,
    >
    > Just to relieve any issues that you have in doing this, it's not unlike
    > sweating copper pipes. I'm an industrial technician and done both ;-)
    >
    > If you apply heat to the bottom of the posts, on the underside of the
    > motherboard, you should be fine. If you start to see any discoloration on
    > the motherboard, stop applying heat. Usually, these are manufactured with

    a
    > solder 'paste', but a soldering iron is used to repair them. Try to use a
    > fine tip on the iron, applied directly to the solder, and it should come

    out
    > without any issue. If you notice any type of smoke, don't worry too much,
    > that's usually just a small coating, or a flux that is applied after the
    > 'reflow' of the solder has been done. Just watch the board for any
    > discoloration, to the organic material itself.
    >
    > When reapplying, make sure and use a form of flux. Around the holes, you
    > should notice the 'solder pad' and try to use those as best as possible.
    > That is actually the run, or the electrical contact that the battery

    needs.
    > When done, look for any 'solder balls' (small spatter of solder from the
    > initial heating) and remove. These can cause a short on the system, which
    > will put you in deep doo doo. If needed, use a solder 'wick' (small,

    copper
    > strand, usually found at most electrical sellers, like radio hut) to

    remove
    > them. You just heat the wick and drag across the solder balls to remove.
    > To tie to sweating, try to use the flux to 'drag' the flux around the
    > connection and solder pads.
    >
    > Just like plumbing, get yourself setup, good lighting, firm work area.

    Take
    > two deep breaths and have at it. Just remember, this is not silver

    solder,
    > so you don't need quite that much heat...
    >
    > Hoot
    >
    >
    > "fhg" <_(notreal)> wrote in message
    > news:fvIOb.3687$...
    > >
    > > > > IBM PC 300GL
    > > > >
    > > > > Broken motherboard battery clip. Big problem.
    > > > >
    > > > > I couldn't slide the battery out of it's holder sideways, so I

    lifted
    > > the
    > > > > clip up too far & it snapped right at its base.
    > > > >
    > > > > I've tried to hold it in contact position with some super/crazy glue

    > and
    > > > > electrical tape. Which kinda worked for a while, but not

    permanently.
    > > Now
    > > > > after each shut down, the bios settings are lost & .I have to find a

    > > decent
    > > > > solution without replacing the motherboard ($$).
    > > > >
    > > > > I have just removed the entire motherboard to see how the battery

    > holder
    > > is
    > > > > attached, and how I might be able to tackle the problem.
    > > > >
    > > > > Underneath the board there are two 'pins' soldered - one must lead

    > from
    > > the
    > > > > clip (positive) and the other from the contact below the battery

    > > (negative).
    > > > >
    > > > > One option I considered was applying a little heat, with an

    electrical
    > > > > soldering iron, to these two points to free the entire battery

    holder?
    > > Maybe
    > > > > I can replace it.
    > > > >
    > > > > Another option is to try & solder the clip back in position. Problem

    > is
    > > > > there is no stem protruding and I'd have to try & cut away a bit of

    > the
    > > hard
    > > > > black plastic surrounding the base of the clip that remains below

    the
    > > > > surface. This would have to be done with the battery in position

    which
    > > has
    > > > > an explosive risk attached, and also the risk of dropping a bit of

    > > solder on
    > > > > the mb.
    > > > >
    > > > > Another thought was to take a bit of electric wire, strip the

    > insulation
    > > and
    > > > > try to attach one end to the battery (tape or solder or glue) and

    try
    > to
    > > > > wedge and/or solder or glue the other end to the remaining clip

    stem.
    > > > > Or attach the electrical wire to the battery and take it around to

    the
    > > > > bottom of the board to the point where the positive terminal solder
    > > > > point/pin from the clip is located? The battery holder is located

    near
    > > the
    > > > > edge of the mb so I could get some wire around.
    > > > >
    > > > > Has anyone had and solved this problem - let me know what you think

    my
    > > best
    > > > > avenue is - I gotta get this machine up and running again.
    > > > >
    > > > > I've heard of an epoxy type glue with metal content that is

    conductive
    > ?
    > > > >
    > > > > --
    > > > > xx
    > > >
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > Just replace the battery holder... generally there are just two solder
    > > > points (+ and -).
    > > >
    > > > You might find a suitable replacement on some dead mobos you might

    have
    > > > lying around...

    > >
    > > I've only done an electric solder once before - plumbing is more what

    I'm
    > > used to :)
    > > The two solder points on the underside of the board - one looks like it
    > > comes from the bottom of the battery and the other looks like it comes

    > from
    > > the broken retaining clip stem. These are what you refer to -right ? If

    I
    > > apply heat to these they should loosen and allow the entire holder o

    come
    > > out ? And then if I find a replacement, push the two pins through the

    > board
    > > and solder them on the underside ?
    > >
    > >

    >
    >
     
    fhg, Jan 20, 2004
    #7
  8. fhg

    fhg Guest

    or piece of copper wire in lieu of the paper clip ?

    --

    > To keep it simple, just use a paper clip to provide the negative and use
    > some kind of tape to keep it in place. This would work if you are not

    moving
    > the PC around. I had the same problem with a different mobo, did the trick
    > explained above and it has been two years since.
    >
    > Give a try.
    >
    > Alex perez
    >
    > "Barry Watzman" <> wrote in message
    > news:MAJOb.20915$...
    > > Find someone who knows how to do this. It's a 2-3 minute job if you
    > > know how to do it, but you can EASILY ruin the board if you don't know
    > > how to do it. Using the wrong solder type (do NOT use plumbing solder)
    > > or the wrong soldering tool can also ruin the board. It's actually a
    > > fairly easy job, again, for someone who knows what they are doing.
    > >
    > >
    > > fhg wrote:
    > >
    > > >>>IBM PC 300GL
    > > >>>
    > > >>>Broken motherboard battery clip. Big problem.
    > > >>>
    > > >>>I couldn't slide the battery out of it's holder sideways, so I lifted
    > > >
    > > > the
    > > >
    > > >>>clip up too far & it snapped right at its base.
    > > >>>
    > > >>>I've tried to hold it in contact position with some super/crazy glue

    > and
    > > >>>electrical tape. Which kinda worked for a while, but not permanently.
    > > >
    > > > Now
    > > >
    > > >>>after each shut down, the bios settings are lost & .I have to find a
    > > >
    > > > decent
    > > >
    > > >>>solution without replacing the motherboard ($$).
    > > >>>
    > > >>>I have just removed the entire motherboard to see how the battery

    > holder
    > > >
    > > > is
    > > >
    > > >>>attached, and how I might be able to tackle the problem.
    > > >>>
    > > >>>Underneath the board there are two 'pins' soldered - one must lead

    from
    > > >
    > > > the
    > > >
    > > >>>clip (positive) and the other from the contact below the battery
    > > >
    > > > (negative).
    > > >
    > > >>>One option I considered was applying a little heat, with an

    electrical
    > > >>>soldering iron, to these two points to free the entire battery

    holder?
    > > >
    > > > Maybe
    > > >
    > > >>>I can replace it.
    > > >>>
    > > >>>Another option is to try & solder the clip back in position. Problem

    is
    > > >>>there is no stem protruding and I'd have to try & cut away a bit of

    the
    > > >
    > > > hard
    > > >
    > > >>>black plastic surrounding the base of the clip that remains below the
    > > >>>surface. This would have to be done with the battery in position

    which
    > > >
    > > > has
    > > >
    > > >>>an explosive risk attached, and also the risk of dropping a bit of
    > > >
    > > > solder on
    > > >
    > > >>>the mb.
    > > >>>
    > > >>>Another thought was to take a bit of electric wire, strip the

    > insulation
    > > >
    > > > and
    > > >
    > > >>>try to attach one end to the battery (tape or solder or glue) and try

    > to
    > > >>>wedge and/or solder or glue the other end to the remaining clip

    stem.
    > > >>>Or attach the electrical wire to the battery and take it around to

    the
    > > >>>bottom of the board to the point where the positive terminal solder
    > > >>>point/pin from the clip is located? The battery holder is located

    near
    > > >
    > > > the
    > > >
    > > >>>edge of the mb so I could get some wire around.
    > > >>>
    > > >>>Has anyone had and solved this problem - let me know what you think

    my
    > > >
    > > > best
    > > >
    > > >>>avenue is - I gotta get this machine up and running again.
    > > >>>
    > > >>>I've heard of an epoxy type glue with metal content that is

    conductive
    > ?
    > > >>>
    > > >>>--
    > > >>>xx
    > > >>
    > > >>
    > > >>
    > > >>Just replace the battery holder... generally there are just two solder
    > > >>points (+ and -).
    > > >>
    > > >>You might find a suitable replacement on some dead mobos you might

    have
    > > >>lying around...
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > I've only done an electric solder once before - plumbing is more what

    > I'm
    > > > used to :)
    > > > The two solder points on the underside of the board - one looks like

    it
    > > > comes from the bottom of the battery and the other looks like it

    comes
    > from
    > > > the broken retaining clip stem. These are what you refer to -right ?

    If
    > I
    > > > apply heat to these they should loosen and allow the entire holder o

    > come
    > > > out ? And then if I find a replacement, push the two pins through the

    > board
    > > > and solder them on the underside ?
    > > >
    > > >

    > >

    >
    >
     
    fhg, Jan 20, 2004
    #8
  9. fhg

    fhg Guest

    Thanks to all for replies.

    Do you think a 2 battery AAA or AA battery holder (Radio Shack) with pos.
    wire attached (soldered if possible) to the broken off stem of the clip (I
    can file away the black pastic and expose it a wee bit), and the other neg.
    wire attached to the silver bit that was beneath the battery in the holder,
    would do it?
    If I could get away with AAA rather than AA it would save a little space.
    Another option may be a cell phone battery with the plug cut off and the
    wires attached

    I feel a little unsure of replacing the original holder - heating the two
    points on the mb underside and lifting the holder up and out sounds doable.
    However getting a replacement attached correctly with the right contact to
    the circuitry sounds more challenging.
     
    fhg, Jan 20, 2004
    #9
  10. fhg

    fhg Guest

    in principle, is it a viable option to use one of these?


    > No, you would need a 2 battery unit.
    >
    > The "coin cell" is lithium, it's a bit over 3 volts.
    >
    > AA and AAA's are basically 1.25 to 1.55 volts per cell (carbon-zinc,
    > alkaline, NiCad, etc.), you'd need two cells.
    >
    >
    > polishpickle wrote:
    >
    > > no you would need a 1 battery unit
    > >
    > > "fhg" <_(notreal)> wrote in message
    > > news:G12Pb.5021$...
    > >
    > >>Thanks to all for replies.
    > >>
    > >>Do you think a 2 battery AAA or AA battery holder (Radio Shack) with

    pos.
    > >>wire attached (soldered if possible) to the broken off stem of the clip

    (I
    > >>can file away the black pastic and expose it a wee bit), and the other

    > >
    > > neg.
    > >
    > >>wire attached to the silver bit that was beneath the battery in the

    > >
    > > holder,
    > >
    > >>would do it?
    > >>If I could get away with AAA rather than AA it would save a little

    space.
    > >>Another option may be a cell phone battery with the plug cut off and the
    > >>wires attached
    > >>
    > >>I feel a little unsure of replacing the original holder - heating the

    two
    > >>points on the mb underside and lifting the holder up and out sounds

    > >
    > > doable.
    > >
    > >>However getting a replacement attached correctly with the right contact

    to
    > >>the circuitry sounds more challenging.
    > >>
    > >>
    > >>

    > >
    > >
    > >
    > >

    >
     
    fhg, Jan 20, 2004
    #10
  11. fhg

    fhg Guest

    Thanks everyone - I'm going to see if I can get a 'coin battery' type holder
    in this neck of the woods - it's proving to be difficult though so I may
    resort to a 2x AAA which I can find here


    > matter of fact some old motherboards (back in the day) used those 2 AA or
    > AAA packs as their cmos battery. I used to have tons of them sitting

    around
    > until I realized I would probably never use them.
    >
    >
    > "fhg" <_(notreal)> wrote in message
    > news:O6hPb.5313$...
    > > in principle, is it a viable option to use one of these?
    > >
    > >
    > > > No, you would need a 2 battery unit.
    > > >
    > > > The "coin cell" is lithium, it's a bit over 3 volts.
    > > >
    > > > AA and AAA's are basically 1.25 to 1.55 volts per cell (carbon-zinc,
    > > > alkaline, NiCad, etc.), you'd need two cells.
    > > >
    > > >
    > > > polishpickle wrote:
    > > >
    > > > > no you would need a 1 battery unit
    > > > >
    > > > > "fhg" <_(notreal)> wrote in message
    > > > > news:G12Pb.5021$...
    > > > >
    > > > >>Thanks to all for replies.
    > > > >>
    > > > >>Do you think a 2 battery AAA or AA battery holder (Radio Shack) with

    > > pos.
    > > > >>wire attached (soldered if possible) to the broken off stem of the

    > clip
    > > (I
    > > > >>can file away the black pastic and expose it a wee bit), and the

    other
    > > > >
    > > > > neg.
    > > > >
    > > > >>wire attached to the silver bit that was beneath the battery in the
    > > > >
    > > > > holder,
    > > > >
    > > > >>would do it?
    > > > >>If I could get away with AAA rather than AA it would save a little

    > > space.
    > > > >>Another option may be a cell phone battery with the plug cut off and

    > the
    > > > >>wires attached
    > > > >>
    > > > >>I feel a little unsure of replacing the original holder - heating

    the
    > > two
    > > > >>points on the mb underside and lifting the holder up and out sounds
    > > > >
    > > > > doable.
    > > > >
    > > > >>However getting a replacement attached correctly with the right

    > contact
    > > to
    > > > >>the circuitry sounds more challenging.
    > > > >>
    > > > >>
    > > > >>
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > >

    > >
    > >

    >
    >
     
    fhg, Jan 21, 2004
    #11
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