ARSAT 2.8/35 tilt and shift lens

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by clive, Oct 18, 2004.

  1. clive

    clive Guest

    Will be getting a Canon 20D and will need a shifting and sometimes
    tilting lens. The Canon 24 and 45mm are a bit too expensive for my
    occassional use and was looking into the Arsat 35mm.

    Have not been able to find any reviews on the Arsat but assume the
    quality, stopped down is OK - I would be using it on a tripod so do
    not need to shoot wide open.

    Will it work OK with the 20D - I assume that I will have to manually
    focus.

    Will the 20D exposure meter work, again I assume in stop down mode, or
    does it require a Canon lens to interact with the body's electronics.

    If it will not work can I take a test shot and determine from the
    histogram the correct exposure? or will I need to get a hand held
    meter.

    Would there be any other issues I should know before I get one and are
    there any alternatives?

    Thanks

    Clive
    clive, Oct 18, 2004
    #1
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  2. Hi Clive,

    The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
    need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying
    to prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of
    distortion can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits.
    Resolution is degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need
    to be expanded and the borders of the image become non-rectangular,
    requiring a recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an
    8.2Mpixel image, you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs
    quite well, as long as the corrections aren't severe.

    David
    David R. Greenberg, Oct 18, 2004
    #2
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  3. clive

    TP Guest

    "David R. Greenberg" <> wrote:
    >
    >The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
    >need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying
    >to prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of
    >distortion can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits.
    >Resolution is degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need
    >to be expanded and the borders of the image become non-rectangular,
    >requiring a recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an
    >8.2Mpixel image, you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs
    >quite well, as long as the corrections aren't severe.



    I would like to know how you increase depth of field in Photoshop ...

    ;-)
    TP, Oct 18, 2004
    #3
  4. clive

    Alan Browne Guest

    TP wrote:

    >
    > I would like to know how you increase depth of field in Photoshop ...


    We would like to know if you've ever shot hyperfocal. Or anything at all.

    --
    -- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
    -- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
    -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--
    Alan Browne, Oct 18, 2004
    #4
  5. clive

    Dallas Guest

    On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 17:10:43 +0100, TP had this to say:

    > "David R. Greenberg" <> wrote:
    >>
    >>The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
    >>need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying to
    >>prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of distortion
    >>can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits. Resolution is
    >>degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need to be expanded
    >>and the borders of the image become non-rectangular, requiring a
    >>recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an 8.2Mpixel image,
    >>you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs quite well, as long
    >>as the corrections aren't severe.

    >
    >
    > I would like to know how you increase depth of field in Photoshop ...
    >
    > ;-)


    Ask an expert. I recommend Brain Bird. Or is that Bran Bard? Byron Brad?
    Bird Brain? Um...wait...Brian Baird. That's it. Professional expert on all
    things Photoshop (not that you'd ever need any profesional advice).

    --
    DD™
    Durban, South Africa.
    Dallas, Oct 18, 2004
    #5
  6. clive

    me Guest

    "clive" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Will be getting a Canon 20D and will need a shifting and sometimes
    > tilting lens. The Canon 24 and 45mm are a bit too expensive for my
    > occassional use and was looking into the Arsat 35mm.
    >
    > Have not been able to find any reviews on the Arsat but assume the
    > quality, stopped down is OK - I would be using it on a tripod so do
    > not need to shoot wide open.
    >
    > Will it work OK with the 20D - I assume that I will have to manually
    > focus.
    >
    > Will the 20D exposure meter work, again I assume in stop down mode, or
    > does it require a Canon lens to interact with the body's electronics.
    >
    > If it will not work can I take a test shot and determine from the
    > histogram the correct exposure? or will I need to get a hand held
    > meter.
    >
    > Would there be any other issues I should know before I get one and are
    > there any alternatives?
    >
    > Thanks
    >
    > Clive


    Here's a review of the Arsat lens by Shutterbug Magazine:
    http://www.shutterbug.net/features/0801sb_thewide/ If there are any
    alternatives they are listed here:
    http://www.ohse.de/uwe/articles/shift-tilt.html
    me, Oct 18, 2004
    #6
  7. clive

    clive Guest

    Thanks David, I have investigated these ideas and as my work does
    include, but not limited to, architectural shots I want to get things
    correctly done at source. I have done some work doing perspective
    corrections in software but there are limitations and trade offs. The
    work needed to resize in the one direction to correctly retain the
    scale is very time consuming. Also I will need om occassions to have
    more than 8 mpixels - which I hope to do by stitching.


    >
    > The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
    > need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying
    > to prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of
    > distortion can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits.
    > Resolution is degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need
    > to be expanded and the borders of the image become non-rectangular,
    > requiring a recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an
    > 8.2Mpixel image, you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs
    > quite well, as long as the corrections aren't severe.
    >
    > David
    clive, Oct 18, 2004
    #7
  8. TP <> writes:

    > "David R. Greenberg" <> wrote:
    >>
    >>The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
    >>need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying
    >>to prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of
    >>distortion can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits.
    >>Resolution is degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need
    >>to be expanded and the borders of the image become non-rectangular,
    >>requiring a recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an
    >>8.2Mpixel image, you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs
    >>quite well, as long as the corrections aren't severe.

    >
    >
    > I would like to know how you increase depth of field in Photoshop ...
    >
    > ;-)


    However, using a smaller sensor and hence a correspondingly shorter
    focal-length lens does help.
    --
    David Dyer-Bennet, <mailto:>, <http://www.dd-b.net/dd-b/>
    RKBA: <http://noguns-nomoney.com/> <http://www.dd-b.net/carry/>
    Pics: <http://dd-b.lighthunters.net/> <http://www.dd-b.net/dd-b/SnapshotAlbum/>
    Dragaera/Steven Brust: <http://dragaera.info/>
    David Dyer-Bennet, Oct 25, 2004
    #8
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