Ambient lighting -- the latest in a series of newby questions

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by Barry Goldwater, Feb 25, 2004.

  1. My Minolta camera permits me to turn off the flash, and adjust EV
    upwards or downwards. What is the best means of taking photos in a
    large meeting room? The camera wants to slow shutter speed to
    compensate for the relatively low light, and this means that the
    slightest motion will cause a blur. Should I lower the EV, and
    compensate by editing the histogram curve? Any methods that have
    worked for you?
     
    Barry Goldwater, Feb 25, 2004
    #1
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  2. Barry Goldwater

    Ed Ruf Guest

    On 25 Feb 2004 07:14:15 -0800, in rec.photo.digital
    (Barry Goldwater) wrote:

    >My Minolta camera permits me to turn off the flash, and adjust EV
    >upwards or downwards. What is the best means of taking photos in a
    >large meeting room? The camera wants to slow shutter speed to
    >compensate for the relatively low light, and this means that the
    >slightest motion will cause a blur. Should I lower the EV, and
    >compensate by editing the histogram curve? Any methods that have
    >worked for you?


    EV is not going to help blur as all this is going to do is set a
    slower shutter speed. Can you increase the ISO?
    ________________________________________________________
    Ed Ruf Lifetime AMA# 344007 ()
    http://members.cox.net/egruf
    See images taken with my CP-990 and 5700 at
    http://members.cox.net/egruf-digicam
     
    Ed Ruf, Feb 25, 2004
    #2
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  3. <Barry Goldwater> wrote:
    > My Minolta camera permits me to turn off the flash, and adjust EV
    > upwards or downwards. What is the best means of taking photos in a
    > large meeting room? The camera wants to slow shutter speed to
    > compensate for the relatively low light, and this means that the
    > slightest motion will cause a blur. Should I lower the EV, and
    > compensate by editing the histogram curve? Any methods that have
    > worked for you?


    I've had fairly good results with my Toshiba doing the following with my
    camera:
    - set the camera to manual mode: 1/30 s, F2.8
    - set the ISO to 400
    - set the contrast to "soft"

    For most flourescent lit meeting room, I find that this gives me 1 stop
    under-exposed (my camera displays this) and this can easily be corrected
    afterwards and the image still looks good. Beyond that and the colours go
    bad and it gets grainy by the time I've corrected for the contrast.
    Actually it looks a lot like Ektachrome pushed to 800.

    Note I've found that the digital camera behaves a lot more like real film
    than I expected. I've "pushed" the "film" as far as ISO 3200 and it
    basically looks a lot like Ektachrome 400 pushed that far (grainy and high
    contrast).
    --
    Dominic Richens |
    "If you're not *outraged*, you're not paying attention!"
     
    Dominic Richens, Feb 25, 2004
    #3
  4. Barry Goldwater

    Don Stauffer Guest

    The essential accessory for dim lighting is the tripod. Tripods are as
    cheap as 25-30 bucks, or you can go super collapsible and lightweight
    carbon fiber for more money. I believe the tripod is the most essential
    camera accessory there is. It should even be used in normal lighting
    unless there is a reason not to.

    Barry Goldwater wrote:
    >
    > My Minolta camera permits me to turn off the flash, and adjust EV
    > upwards or downwards. What is the best means of taking photos in a
    > large meeting room? The camera wants to slow shutter speed to
    > compensate for the relatively low light, and this means that the
    > slightest motion will cause a blur. Should I lower the EV, and
    > compensate by editing the histogram curve? Any methods that have
    > worked for you?


    --
    Don Stauffer in Minnesota

    webpage- http://www.usfamily.net/web/stauffer
     
    Don Stauffer, Feb 26, 2004
    #4
  5. Barry Goldwater

    Guest

    In message <>,
    Don Stauffer <> wrote:

    >Tripods are as
    >cheap as 25-30 bucks


    The best thing about $25 tripods is that when you actually buy a real
    tripod, the $25 one makes a decent light stand.
    --

    <>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
    John P Sheehy <>
    ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><
     
    , Feb 26, 2004
    #5
  6. Barry Goldwater

    Paolo Pizzi Guest

    wrote:
    > In message <>,
    > Don Stauffer <> wrote:
    >
    >> Tripods are as
    >> cheap as 25-30 bucks

    >
    > The best thing about $25 tripods is that when you actually buy a real
    > tripod, the $25 one makes a decent light stand.


    It depends on the light, I guess... I would never put anything
    expensive and reaaaaaaally hot on a $25 tripod... An auxiliary
    slave flash maybe... ;-)
     
    Paolo Pizzi, Feb 27, 2004
    #6
  7. Barry Goldwater

    Guest

    In message <otx%b.17606$>,
    "Paolo Pizzi" <> wrote:

    > wrote:
    >> In message <>,
    >> Don Stauffer <> wrote:
    >>
    >>> Tripods are as
    >>> cheap as 25-30 bucks

    >>
    >> The best thing about $25 tripods is that when you actually buy a real
    >> tripod, the $25 one makes a decent light stand.

    >
    >It depends on the light, I guess... I would never put anything
    >expensive and reaaaaaaally hot on a $25 tripod... An auxiliary
    >slave flash maybe... ;-)


    But if the tripod vibrates, the picture will blur. :)
    --

    <>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
    John P Sheehy <>
    ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><
     
    , Feb 27, 2004
    #7
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