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Buying new digital camera

 
 
Jake29
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Posts: n/a
 
      06-29-2013
I lost the digital camera that I had and I need to buy a new one.

The one I had was a Kodak-something (I forget the model number), and the one
that I had before that was a Kodak EasyShare V1253. I lost the last one
and the V1253 died on me for some reason.

Both cameras were point-and-shoot digital cameras. Both had fairly high
megapixels and a fairly high zoom. What I liked about both of them is that
they both had rechargeable Li-Ion batteries that lasted a long time on each
charge -- a feature that I definitely want.

It looks like Kodak is out of the digital camera business, so apparently I
can't buy another Kodak digital camera. If I could, I would.

So, I am looking for suggestions of a new point-and-shoot digital camera. I
definitely don't want one that uses AA batteries (rechargeable or not) as
many of them seem to do these days -- I want one with a rechargeable Li-Ion
battery.

I like the plain flat version of digital cameras that I can just keep in my
pocket; not the bigger size cameras that are out there. I am expecting the
cost to be less that about $200. If it has the right battery type
(rechargeable Li-Ion), a fairly high megapixel rating, and a fairly high
optical zoom, that would be great.

I don't do any fancy or professional picture taking -- mostly just people
and events that I go to (birthday parties, etc.). I do use a camera a lot
for taking photos of construction work in progress while rehabbing
properties that I own -- to record wiring, plumbing, etc. before the walls
are closed up etc.

I am looking for any suggestions that people here may have regarding which
brand and model camera to buy.

I will read all replies and will follow up here with more info etc. if
needed.

Thanks.


 
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Tony Cooper
Guest
Posts: n/a
 
      06-29-2013
On Sat, 29 Jun 2013 16:04:52 -0400, "Jake29" <(E-Mail Removed)>
wrote:

>I lost the digital camera that I had and I need to buy a new one.
>
>The one I had was a Kodak-something (I forget the model number), and the one
>that I had before that was a Kodak EasyShare V1253. I lost the last one
>and the V1253 died on me for some reason.
>
>Both cameras were point-and-shoot digital cameras. Both had fairly high
>megapixels and a fairly high zoom. What I liked about both of them is that
>they both had rechargeable Li-Ion batteries that lasted a long time on each
>charge -- a feature that I definitely want.
>
>It looks like Kodak is out of the digital camera business, so apparently I
>can't buy another Kodak digital camera. If I could, I would.
>
>So, I am looking for suggestions of a new point-and-shoot digital camera. I
>definitely don't want one that uses AA batteries (rechargeable or not) as
>many of them seem to do these days -- I want one with a rechargeable Li-Ion
>battery.
>
>I like the plain flat version of digital cameras that I can just keep in my
>pocket; not the bigger size cameras that are out there. I am expecting the
>cost to be less that about $200. If it has the right battery type
>(rechargeable Li-Ion), a fairly high megapixel rating, and a fairly high
>optical zoom, that would be great.
>
>I don't do any fancy or professional picture taking -- mostly just people
>and events that I go to (birthday parties, etc.). I do use a camera a lot
>for taking photos of construction work in progress while rehabbing
>properties that I own -- to record wiring, plumbing, etc. before the walls
>are closed up etc.
>
>I am looking for any suggestions that people here may have regarding which
>brand and model camera to buy.
>
>I will read all replies and will follow up here with more info etc. if
>needed.


My suggestion is to go to a store like Best Buy, Target, Wal-Mart, etc
where they have a row of point-and-shoots for you to choose from.
Don't go to a camera store where the clerk has to pull each out for
you to examine.

Handle all of the Nikon and Canon point-and-shoots (they are the two
brands with the most models in the price range you describe) and
determine which one(s) fit your hand and your pocket. Operate the
controls to see which one is easiest for you to view the menus and
change the settings. Make sure the shutter release and menu controls
are in a position that makes it easy for you to use.

Make sure the zoom control is smooth and easy for you to use. You
should only be concerned about the *optical* zoom. The *digital* zoom
is practically worthless. Labels will mislead you. Some cameras brag
about total zoom, but include the digital zoom in that figure. Look
closer at just the optical zoom figure.

I disagree with your preference about AA batteries, but it's your
camera and your money. My in-the-car point-and-shoot (my regular
camera is a Nikon DSLR) uses rechargeable AA batteries and shoots RAW
and has manual settings. I like the idea that if I haven't used it
for a while, and the batteries are flat, I can buy regular AA
batteries at any store and use them. If my Nikon Li-Ion battery goes
flat, I have to go home to charge it. (Well, *I* don't, but I have
three batteries and always carry charged spares.)

With the features you want, there's not an eyelash's difference
between similarly priced Nikon and Canon point-and-shoots. You aren't
looking for RAW, manual controls, or other bells and whistles.
There are other brands that are equal to Nikon and Canon, but I'm
trying to keep it simple here.

The way the camera fits your hand, and the ease of use for you, are
more important considerations than brand and model.

The camera makers are always coming out with new models, and stores
like to move out discontinued models. I recently purchased a Nikon
point-and-shoot for $99 at H.H. Gregg that had sold the week before
for over $200. I gave it to a relative. Replacement parts aren't a
consideration, so discontinued models are worth buying.

About megapixels...most of the cameras you'll see are about the same
in models in the same price range. But, big megapixel numbers are
really only important to people who want to make large prints. The
difference between a 12 megapixel camera and a 24 megapixel camera
will not been seen in a 4" x 6" print. On a computer screen, not even
discernable. Megapixel numbers ceased to be important for the
point-and-shoot user once all cameras started offering over 4 or 5
megapixels unless the intent is to print posters.














--
Tony Cooper - Orlando FL
 
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Jake29
Guest
Posts: n/a
 
      06-30-2013
"Tony Cooper" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news(E-Mail Removed)...
>> On Sat, 29 Jun 2013 16:04:52 -0400, "Jake29" <(E-Mail Removed)>
>> wrote:
>>
>>So, I am looking for suggestions of a new point-and-shoot digital camera.
>>I
>>definitely don't want one that uses AA batteries (rechargeable or not) as
>>many of them seem to do these days -- I want one with a rechargeable
>>Li-Ion
>>battery.
>>
>>I am looking for any suggestions that people here may have regarding which
>>brand and model camera to buy.


> My suggestion is to go to a store like Best Buy, Target, Wal-Mart, etc
> where they have a row of point-and-shoots for you to choose from.
> Don't go to a camera store where the clerk has to pull each out for
> you to examine.
>
> Handle all of the Nikon and Canon point-and-shoots (they are the two
> brands with the most models in the price range you describe) and
> determine which one(s) fit your hand and your pocket. Operate the
> controls to see which one is easiest for you to view the menus and
> change the settings. Make sure the shutter release and menu controls
> are in a position that makes it easy for you to use.
>
> Make sure the zoom control is smooth and easy for you to use. You
> should only be concerned about the *optical* zoom. The *digital* zoom
> is practically worthless. Labels will mislead you. Some cameras brag
> about total zoom, but include the digital zoom in that figure. Look
> closer at just the optical zoom figure.
>
> I disagree with your preference about AA batteries, but it's your
> camera and your money. My in-the-car point-and-shoot (my regular
> camera is a Nikon DSLR) uses rechargeable AA batteries and shoots RAW
> and has manual settings. I like the idea that if I haven't used it
> for a while, and the batteries are flat, I can buy regular AA
> batteries at any store and use them. If my Nikon Li-Ion battery goes
> flat, I have to go home to charge it. (Well, *I* don't, but I have
> three batteries and always carry charged spares.)
>
> With the features you want, there's not an eyelash's difference
> between similarly priced Nikon and Canon point-and-shoots. You aren't
> looking for RAW, manual controls, or other bells and whistles.
> There are other brands that are equal to Nikon and Canon, but I'm
> trying to keep it simple here.
>
> The way the camera fits your hand, and the ease of use for you, are
> more important considerations than brand and model.
>
> The camera makers are always coming out with new models, and stores
> like to move out discontinued models. I recently purchased a Nikon
> point-and-shoot for $99 at H.H. Gregg that had sold the week before
> for over $200. I gave it to a relative. Replacement parts aren't a
> consideration, so discontinued models are worth buying.
>
> About megapixels...most of the cameras you'll see are about the same
> in models in the same price range. But, big megapixel numbers are
> really only important to people who want to make large prints. The
> difference between a 12 megapixel camera and a 24 megapixel camera
> will not been seen in a 4" x 6" print. On a computer screen, not even
> discernable. Megapixel numbers ceased to be important for the
> point-and-shoot user once all cameras started offering over 4 or 5
> megapixels unless the intent is to print posters.


Thanks. That's a ton of great information.

I'll do what you suggested about going to places like Best Buy, Target, etc.
I did go to WalMart and the cameras were all chained down, so I couldn't
really figure out which cameras had which features and what type of battery
they used etc. But, I'll try the other stores.

I did notice that the descriptions talk about optical zoom and digital zoom,
so now I know to just focus on the optical zoom part.

Part of why I am interested in higher megapixels is that I sometimes take
photos of a high part of a building or a chimney etc. that needs work, but
from ground level. Then, when I get the photos on my computer, I can zoom
in and see more detail about the condition of the chimney etc. I don't know
if higher megapixels really makes a difference in my being able to do that,
but with the cameras that I had in the past that was a great feature.

One other thing that I sometimes need to do is take pictures of rooms (like
a bathroom or kitchen) that has been remodeled, and it would be good to be
able to take a wider angle shot if possible to get more of the room in one
picture. I have seen cameras that say "wide angle", but after reading more
about some of that, it appears that the only truly "wide angle" cameras are
the higher end ones that are not "point and shoot". But, I thought I'd
mention that in case there is anything I should look for in terms of "wide
angle" on the point and shoot cameras.

 
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Jake29
Guest
Posts: n/a
 
      06-30-2013
"newshound" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed) o.uk...
> On 29/06/2013 21:54, Tony Cooper wrote:
>> On Sat, 29 Jun 2013 16:04:52 -0400, "Jake29" <(E-Mail Removed)>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I lost the digital camera that I had and I need to buy a new one.


> All excellent advice from Tony, the only thing I would add is that I
> wouldn't buy anything without a viewfinder. Firstly, you can hold the
> camera much more securely with two hands and against your face than
> holding it some distance in front of you while looking at the screen.
> Secondly, you'll have no trouble framing your shot in sunlight or
> otherwise awkward lighting conditions.
>
> Last time I looked this restricted you to one or two Canons at the budget
> end of the market.


Thanks. I'll definitely look for that about the viewfinder. I know exactly
what you mean about keeping the camera stable and being able to see what I
am trying to photograph on a sunny day without a viewfinder. I do get that
the viewfinder feature may just be in higher end cameras but I'll look for
that anyway and see what's out there.



 
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nospam
Guest
Posts: n/a
 
      06-30-2013
In article <kqo1uk$fp7$(E-Mail Removed)>, Jake29
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> > My suggestion is to go to a store like Best Buy, Target, Wal-Mart, etc
> > where they have a row of point-and-shoots for you to choose from.
> > Don't go to a camera store where the clerk has to pull each out for
> > you to examine.


> I'll do what you suggested about going to places like Best Buy, Target, etc.
> I did go to WalMart and the cameras were all chained down, so I couldn't
> really figure out which cameras had which features and what type of battery
> they used etc. But, I'll try the other stores.


it's actually bad advice.

first, go to a camera store and talk to a salesperson who has a
reasonable understanding of the various models. you want someone with a
clue, which you will *not* find in a big box store, to answer any
questions you may have. some camera stores are better than others, so
try to find a store that caters towards pros rather than a mall store.

once you have an idea of the various models and the different features
available, *then* go to a big box store where you can play with them
for as long as you want without bothering a salesperson.

keep in mind that a lot of times, the cameras at a big box store will
not work properly or have dead batteries or some other issue and nobody
there really cares one way or the other.

> I did notice that the descriptions talk about optical zoom and digital zoom,
> so now I know to just focus on the optical zoom part.


ignore digital zoom. it's nothing that can't be done on a computer.

> Part of why I am interested in higher megapixels is that I sometimes take
> photos of a high part of a building or a chimney etc. that needs work, but
> from ground level. Then, when I get the photos on my computer, I can zoom
> in and see more detail about the condition of the chimney etc. I don't know
> if higher megapixels really makes a difference in my being able to do that,
> but with the cameras that I had in the past that was a great feature.


sounds like you want a longer focus lens for that.

> One other thing that I sometimes need to do is take pictures of rooms (like
> a bathroom or kitchen) that has been remodeled, and it would be good to be
> able to take a wider angle shot if possible to get more of the room in one
> picture. I have seen cameras that say "wide angle", but after reading more
> about some of that, it appears that the only truly "wide angle" cameras are
> the higher end ones that are not "point and shoot". But, I thought I'd
> mention that in case there is anything I should look for in terms of "wide
> angle" on the point and shoot cameras.


then you also need a wide angle lens.

most p&s cameras won't go that wide, but some may have accessory lenses
to go wider. unfortunately, those aren't usually of the best quality.

if you really need to do interior shots with a very wide angle lens,
you really don't want a p&s compact. a much better choice is something
with interchangeable lenses, either an slr or a mirrorless.
 
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Tony Cooper
Guest
Posts: n/a
 
      06-30-2013
On Sat, 29 Jun 2013 21:34:16 -0400, "Jake29" <(E-Mail Removed)>
wrote:

>"Tony Cooper" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
>news(E-Mail Removed).. .
>>> On Sat, 29 Jun 2013 16:04:52 -0400, "Jake29" <(E-Mail Removed)>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>So, I am looking for suggestions of a new point-and-shoot digital camera.
>>>I
>>>definitely don't want one that uses AA batteries (rechargeable or not) as
>>>many of them seem to do these days -- I want one with a rechargeable
>>>Li-Ion
>>>battery.
>>>
>>>I am looking for any suggestions that people here may have regarding which
>>>brand and model camera to buy.

>
>> My suggestion is to go to a store like Best Buy, Target, Wal-Mart, etc
>> where they have a row of point-and-shoots for you to choose from.
>> Don't go to a camera store where the clerk has to pull each out for
>> you to examine.
>>
>> Handle all of the Nikon and Canon point-and-shoots (they are the two
>> brands with the most models in the price range you describe) and
>> determine which one(s) fit your hand and your pocket. Operate the
>> controls to see which one is easiest for you to view the menus and
>> change the settings. Make sure the shutter release and menu controls
>> are in a position that makes it easy for you to use.
>>
>> Make sure the zoom control is smooth and easy for you to use. You
>> should only be concerned about the *optical* zoom. The *digital* zoom
>> is practically worthless. Labels will mislead you. Some cameras brag
>> about total zoom, but include the digital zoom in that figure. Look
>> closer at just the optical zoom figure.
>>
>> I disagree with your preference about AA batteries, but it's your
>> camera and your money. My in-the-car point-and-shoot (my regular
>> camera is a Nikon DSLR) uses rechargeable AA batteries and shoots RAW
>> and has manual settings. I like the idea that if I haven't used it
>> for a while, and the batteries are flat, I can buy regular AA
>> batteries at any store and use them. If my Nikon Li-Ion battery goes
>> flat, I have to go home to charge it. (Well, *I* don't, but I have
>> three batteries and always carry charged spares.)
>>
>> With the features you want, there's not an eyelash's difference
>> between similarly priced Nikon and Canon point-and-shoots. You aren't
>> looking for RAW, manual controls, or other bells and whistles.
>> There are other brands that are equal to Nikon and Canon, but I'm
>> trying to keep it simple here.
>>
>> The way the camera fits your hand, and the ease of use for you, are
>> more important considerations than brand and model.
>>
>> The camera makers are always coming out with new models, and stores
>> like to move out discontinued models. I recently purchased a Nikon
>> point-and-shoot for $99 at H.H. Gregg that had sold the week before
>> for over $200. I gave it to a relative. Replacement parts aren't a
>> consideration, so discontinued models are worth buying.
>>
>> About megapixels...most of the cameras you'll see are about the same
>> in models in the same price range. But, big megapixel numbers are
>> really only important to people who want to make large prints. The
>> difference between a 12 megapixel camera and a 24 megapixel camera
>> will not been seen in a 4" x 6" print. On a computer screen, not even
>> discernable. Megapixel numbers ceased to be important for the
>> point-and-shoot user once all cameras started offering over 4 or 5
>> megapixels unless the intent is to print posters.

>
>Thanks. That's a ton of great information.
>
>I'll do what you suggested about going to places like Best Buy, Target, etc.
>I did go to WalMart and the cameras were all chained down, so I couldn't
>really figure out which cameras had which features and what type of battery
>they used etc. But, I'll try the other stores.


The are chained down in every store I've ever been to. However, they
are also connected to a power source so you can activate the camera
and go through the menus. The chain doesn't interfere with getting
the "feel" of the camera in your hands. If one is not connected, have
the clerk do so.

I'd go for one with an optical viewfinder, but I don't see them around
at that price range. Or at all.

>I did notice that the descriptions talk about optical zoom and digital zoom,
>so now I know to just focus on the optical zoom part.
>
>Part of why I am interested in higher megapixels is that I sometimes take
>photos of a high part of a building or a chimney etc. that needs work, but
>from ground level. Then, when I get the photos on my computer, I can zoom
>in and see more detail about the condition of the chimney etc. I don't know
>if higher megapixels really makes a difference in my being able to do that,
>but with the cameras that I had in the past that was a great feature.


Well, the difference isn't going to be that great in megapixels if you
compare at price levels. They're all up there now. The trick is to
avoid going to full zoom if the full zoom goes into the digital zoom
range. That's the way most, or all, work. The digital zoom increases
the size of what you see, but loses the detail of what you capture.
Most point-and-shoots have a line on an icon on the screen that tells
you when you are going from optical to digital.

>One other thing that I sometimes need to do is take pictures of rooms (like
>a bathroom or kitchen) that has been remodeled, and it would be good to be
>able to take a wider angle shot if possible to get more of the room in one
>picture. I have seen cameras that say "wide angle", but after reading more
>about some of that, it appears that the only truly "wide angle" cameras are
>the higher end ones that are not "point and shoot". But, I thought I'd
>mention that in case there is anything I should look for in terms of "wide
>angle" on the point and shoot cameras.


Point-and-shoots can be used for panoramas. It's software that
creates a panorama using a point and shoot*, and Elements will do
that. Elements would be worth having for other purposes. A tripod or
monopod is almost essential for a panorama. A panorama is better than
a wide angle shot with a point and shoot because the widest setting
can (not will) produce distortion at the edges. Shoot the panorama
images in portrait, not landscape.

*Some point-and-shoots do in-camera stitching, but I don't think
that's a feature in your price range of cameras. I may be wrong.

There are some generalities above, and some cameras may be an
exception.





--
Tony Cooper - Orlando FL
 
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J. Clarke
Guest
Posts: n/a
 
      06-30-2013
In article <(E-Mail Removed)>, tonycooper214
@gmail.com says...
>
> On Sat, 29 Jun 2013 21:34:16 -0400, "Jake29" <(E-Mail Removed)>
> wrote:
>
> >"Tony Cooper" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> >news(E-Mail Removed).. .
> >>> On Sat, 29 Jun 2013 16:04:52 -0400, "Jake29" <(E-Mail Removed)>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>So, I am looking for suggestions of a new point-and-shoot digital camera.
> >>>I
> >>>definitely don't want one that uses AA batteries (rechargeable or not) as
> >>>many of them seem to do these days -- I want one with a rechargeable
> >>>Li-Ion
> >>>battery.
> >>>
> >>>I am looking for any suggestions that people here may have regarding which
> >>>brand and model camera to buy.

> >
> >> My suggestion is to go to a store like Best Buy, Target, Wal-Mart, etc
> >> where they have a row of point-and-shoots for you to choose from.
> >> Don't go to a camera store where the clerk has to pull each out for
> >> you to examine.
> >>
> >> Handle all of the Nikon and Canon point-and-shoots (they are the two
> >> brands with the most models in the price range you describe) and
> >> determine which one(s) fit your hand and your pocket. Operate the
> >> controls to see which one is easiest for you to view the menus and
> >> change the settings. Make sure the shutter release and menu controls
> >> are in a position that makes it easy for you to use.
> >>
> >> Make sure the zoom control is smooth and easy for you to use. You
> >> should only be concerned about the *optical* zoom. The *digital* zoom
> >> is practically worthless. Labels will mislead you. Some cameras brag
> >> about total zoom, but include the digital zoom in that figure. Look
> >> closer at just the optical zoom figure.
> >>
> >> I disagree with your preference about AA batteries, but it's your
> >> camera and your money. My in-the-car point-and-shoot (my regular
> >> camera is a Nikon DSLR) uses rechargeable AA batteries and shoots RAW
> >> and has manual settings. I like the idea that if I haven't used it
> >> for a while, and the batteries are flat, I can buy regular AA
> >> batteries at any store and use them. If my Nikon Li-Ion battery goes
> >> flat, I have to go home to charge it. (Well, *I* don't, but I have
> >> three batteries and always carry charged spares.)
> >>
> >> With the features you want, there's not an eyelash's difference
> >> between similarly priced Nikon and Canon point-and-shoots. You aren't
> >> looking for RAW, manual controls, or other bells and whistles.
> >> There are other brands that are equal to Nikon and Canon, but I'm
> >> trying to keep it simple here.
> >>
> >> The way the camera fits your hand, and the ease of use for you, are
> >> more important considerations than brand and model.
> >>
> >> The camera makers are always coming out with new models, and stores
> >> like to move out discontinued models. I recently purchased a Nikon
> >> point-and-shoot for $99 at H.H. Gregg that had sold the week before
> >> for over $200. I gave it to a relative. Replacement parts aren't a
> >> consideration, so discontinued models are worth buying.
> >>
> >> About megapixels...most of the cameras you'll see are about the same
> >> in models in the same price range. But, big megapixel numbers are
> >> really only important to people who want to make large prints. The
> >> difference between a 12 megapixel camera and a 24 megapixel camera
> >> will not been seen in a 4" x 6" print. On a computer screen, not even
> >> discernable. Megapixel numbers ceased to be important for the
> >> point-and-shoot user once all cameras started offering over 4 or 5
> >> megapixels unless the intent is to print posters.

> >
> >Thanks. That's a ton of great information.
> >
> >I'll do what you suggested about going to places like Best Buy, Target, etc.
> >I did go to WalMart and the cameras were all chained down, so I couldn't
> >really figure out which cameras had which features and what type of battery
> >they used etc. But, I'll try the other stores.

>
> The are chained down in every store I've ever been to. However, they
> are also connected to a power source so you can activate the camera
> and go through the menus. The chain doesn't interfere with getting
> the "feel" of the camera in your hands. If one is not connected, have
> the clerk do so.
>
> I'd go for one with an optical viewfinder, but I don't see them around
> at that price range. Or at all.
>
> >I did notice that the descriptions talk about optical zoom and digital zoom,
> >so now I know to just focus on the optical zoom part.
> >
> >Part of why I am interested in higher megapixels is that I sometimes take
> >photos of a high part of a building or a chimney etc. that needs work, but
> >from ground level. Then, when I get the photos on my computer, I can zoom
> >in and see more detail about the condition of the chimney etc. I don't know
> >if higher megapixels really makes a difference in my being able to do that,
> >but with the cameras that I had in the past that was a great feature.

>
> Well, the difference isn't going to be that great in megapixels if you
> compare at price levels. They're all up there now. The trick is to
> avoid going to full zoom if the full zoom goes into the digital zoom
> range. That's the way most, or all, work. The digital zoom increases
> the size of what you see, but loses the detail of what you capture.
> Most point-and-shoots have a line on an icon on the screen that tells
> you when you are going from optical to digital.
>
> >One other thing that I sometimes need to do is take pictures of rooms (like
> >a bathroom or kitchen) that has been remodeled, and it would be good to be
> >able to take a wider angle shot if possible to get more of the room in one
> >picture. I have seen cameras that say "wide angle", but after reading more
> >about some of that, it appears that the only truly "wide angle" cameras are
> >the higher end ones that are not "point and shoot". But, I thought I'd
> >mention that in case there is anything I should look for in terms of "wide
> >angle" on the point and shoot cameras.

>
> Point-and-shoots can be used for panoramas. It's software that
> creates a panorama using a point and shoot*, and Elements will do
> that. Elements would be worth having for other purposes. A tripod or
> monopod is almost essential for a panorama. A panorama is better than
> a wide angle shot with a point and shoot because the widest setting
> can (not will) produce distortion at the edges. Shoot the panorama
> images in portrait, not landscape.
>
> *Some point-and-shoots do in-camera stitching, but I don't think
> that's a feature in your price range of cameras. I may be wrong.
>
> There are some generalities above, and some cameras may be an
> exception.


FWIW, the Canon SX500 is on sale right now for 199 at Best Buy, it zooms
out to 720mm equivalent and in to 24mm equivalent. It's a bit bulky
though.
 
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nospam
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Posts: n/a
 
      06-30-2013
In article <(E-Mail Removed)>, Tony Cooper
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> >I'll do what you suggested about going to places like Best Buy, Target, etc.
> >I did go to WalMart and the cameras were all chained down, so I couldn't
> >really figure out which cameras had which features and what type of battery
> >they used etc. But, I'll try the other stores.

>
> The are chained down in every store I've ever been to. However, they
> are also connected to a power source so you can activate the camera
> and go through the menus. The chain doesn't interfere with getting
> the "feel" of the camera in your hands. If one is not connected, have
> the clerk do so.


by chained down, he most likely means tied down to the display, so you
can't pick it up at *all*. some stores do that. others don't.

at the stores where the cameras are on a tether (i.e., not chained
down) you can try them out, but many times they're not connected to a
power supply and the battery might not have a full charge or it's
missing entirely.
 
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Tony Cooper
Guest
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      06-30-2013
On Sat, 29 Jun 2013 22:44:18 -0400, nospam <(E-Mail Removed)>
wrote:

>In article <(E-Mail Removed)>, Tony Cooper
><(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>> >I'll do what you suggested about going to places like Best Buy, Target, etc.
>> >I did go to WalMart and the cameras were all chained down, so I couldn't
>> >really figure out which cameras had which features and what type of battery
>> >they used etc. But, I'll try the other stores.

>>
>> The are chained down in every store I've ever been to. However, they
>> are also connected to a power source so you can activate the camera
>> and go through the menus. The chain doesn't interfere with getting
>> the "feel" of the camera in your hands. If one is not connected, have
>> the clerk do so.

>
>by chained down, he most likely means tied down to the display, so you
>can't pick it up at *all*. some stores do that.


I've never seen that done at any Best Buy, Wal-Mart, Target, etc. They
are all connected by a tether and can be pulled away and hand held.
They are usually connected to a power source so the menus can be
accessed. Most stores will allow you to put in your own SD card and
take a photo if you want.

>others don't.
>
>at the stores where the cameras are on a tether (i.e., not chained
>down) you can try them out, but many times they're not connected to a
>power supply and the battery might not have a full charge or it's
>missing entirely.


I've never seen one on display that is purely battery operated. They
are connected to a power supply or a charger via cable. Often, one or
more is not connected, but can be connected on request.

What I see in this area is that the cameras are kept behind the
counter in camera stores and the clerk has to bring each out
individually. I think it's preferable to be able to quickly handle
half a dozen models to eliminate those that don't fit right and narrow
it down to those that do.

Certainly, not all stores in all areas do it the same way. However,
going to one or more of those stores will quickly let the OP know what
to expect in his area.

What I also see in this area is that the camera store clerks are paid
at least partially on commission. This means they will not look
kindly about bringing out half a dozen cameras and going over each one
of them for a sale of under $200 (the OP's budget). They might if the
store was empty, but first sign of a potential DSLR buyer at over
$1,000 and the clerk starts rushing through things and trying to
close.

While I would direct someone buying their first DSLR to a camera
store, this is the OP's third (at least) point-and-shoot and the
variations between models in his price range are minimal. He's more
concerned, according to his post, about size, megapixels, zoom, and
battery type. Size can be determined quickly by just looking at the
row of cameras. Megapixels and zoom will be on the little card where
the camera is attached. (Zoom, though, might be misleading as earlier
mentioned by me) Battery type can be determined by just flipping open
the compartment.

I agree that big box clerks are not as informed as camera store
clerks, but this is a choice that is between basically
feature-identical products.

Even finding a camera store can be a problem. Orlando's a fairly big
town, but there are only two camera stores in town, and one of them
carries only high-end compact cameras. The larger store carries a
wide selection, but their point and shoots are behind the counter and
not connected to chargers or power supplies. They take the batteries
out of all their display cameras (P&S and DSLR) and put them in only
when demonstrating them. Sometimes you have to wait for a battery to
be available if it's a proprietary battery because other clerks are
using them.

Also, this store is closed on Sunday, closed at 7:30 M-T, until 9 on
Friday, and 6 on Saturday.









--
Tony Cooper - Orlando FL
 
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RichA
Guest
Posts: n/a
 
      06-30-2013
On Saturday, June 29, 2013 4:04:52 PM UTC-4, Jake29 wrote:
> I lost the digital camera that I had and I need to buy a new one.
>
>
>
> The one I had was a Kodak-something (I forget the model number), and the one
>
> that I had before that was a Kodak EasyShare V1253. I lost the last one
>
> and the V1253 died on me for some reason.
>
>
>
> Both cameras were point-and-shoot digital cameras. Both had fairly high
>
> megapixels and a fairly high zoom. What I liked about both of them is that
>
> they both had rechargeable Li-Ion batteries that lasted a long time on each
>
> charge -- a feature that I definitely want.
>
>
>
> It looks like Kodak is out of the digital camera business, so apparently I
>
> can't buy another Kodak digital camera. If I could, I would.
>
>
>
> So, I am looking for suggestions of a new point-and-shoot digital camera. I
>
> definitely don't want one that uses AA batteries (rechargeable or not) as
>
> many of them seem to do these days -- I want one with a rechargeable Li-Ion
>
> battery.
>
>
>
> I like the plain flat version of digital cameras that I can just keep in my
>
> pocket; not the bigger size cameras that are out there. I am expecting the
>
> cost to be less that about $200. If it has the right battery type
>
> (rechargeable Li-Ion), a fairly high megapixel rating, and a fairly high
>
> optical zoom, that would be great.
>
>
>
> I don't do any fancy or professional picture taking -- mostly just people
>
> and events that I go to (birthday parties, etc.). I do use a camera a lot
>
> for taking photos of construction work in progress while rehabbing
>
> properties that I own -- to record wiring, plumbing, etc. before the walls
>
> are closed up etc.
>
>
>
> I am looking for any suggestions that people here may have regarding which
>
> brand and model camera to buy.
>
>
>
> I will read all replies and will follow up here with more info etc. if
>
> needed.
>
>
>
> Thanks.


Buy a used Panasonic LX3 or LX5. They were the best of the breed for flattish P&S cameras.
 
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