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Old external flash OK for digital cam?

 
 
Ron
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      02-01-2013
I have an old external flash, a Sunpak 333D. Used it with my old Nikon
FA but haven't used it on any camera since I went digital. Have heard
that some older flashes have high voltages present at the hot shoe that
could damage a digital camera. How can I tell if this flash is OK to use
with something like my Nikon D40?

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PeterN
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      02-01-2013
On 1/31/2013 9:59 PM, Ron wrote:
> I have an old external flash, a Sunpak 333D. Used it with my old Nikon
> FA but haven't used it on any camera since I went digital. Have heard
> that some older flashes have high voltages present at the hot shoe that
> could damage a digital camera. How can I tell if this flash is OK to use
> with something like my Nikon D40?
>


No need to find out. For about $10 you can buy a device that will sit
between your flash and the camera, that will protect your camera from
high voltagge. I just forgot what it is called.

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Tony Cooper
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      02-01-2013
On Thu, 31 Jan 2013 18:59:52 -0800, http://www.velocityreviews.com/forums/(E-Mail Removed)d (Ron)
wrote:

>I have an old external flash, a Sunpak 333D. Used it with my old Nikon
>FA but haven't used it on any camera since I went digital. Have heard
>that some older flashes have high voltages present at the hot shoe that
>could damage a digital camera. How can I tell if this flash is OK to use
>with something like my Nikon D40?


Dunno about burning the camera, but the TTL function is lost.
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Ron
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      02-01-2013
Scott Schuckert <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> In article <1kxkso5.iak9e312k1mjqN%(E-Mail Removed)>, Ron
> <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
> > I have an old external flash, a Sunpak 333D. Used it with my old Nikon
> > FA but haven't used it on any camera since I went digital. Have heard
> > that some older flashes have high voltages present at the hot shoe that
> > could damage a digital camera. How can I tell if this flash is OK to use
> > with something like my Nikon D40?

>
> According to DPAnswers.com, the trigger voltage for that flash is 4.3
> volts. Nikon DSLRs can generally withstand up to 250V, so you should be
> fine. I'd recommend, of course, that you confirm those figures with the
> respective manufacturers, if possible.
>
> If in doubt, sync regulators like the Wein Safe-Sync. can be used.


Thanks, gents. Good info.
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snapper@mailinator.com
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      02-01-2013
On Thu, 31 Jan 2013 18:59:52 -0800, (E-Mail Removed)d (Ron) wrote:

> I have an old external flash, a Sunpak 333D. Used it with my old Nikon
> FA but haven't used it on any camera since I went digital. Have heard
> that some older flashes have high voltages present at the hot shoe that
> could damage a digital camera. How can I tell if this flash is OK to use
> with something like my Nikon D40?


It is safe according to:-

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

 
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Rob
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      02-03-2013
On 2/02/2013 3:38 AM, ray carter wrote:
> On Thu, 31 Jan 2013 18:59:52 -0800, Ron wrote:
>
>> I have an old external flash, a Sunpak 333D. Used it with my old Nikon
>> FA but haven't used it on any camera since I went digital. Have heard
>> that some older flashes have high voltages present at the hot shoe that
>> could damage a digital camera. How can I tell if this flash is OK to use
>> with something like my Nikon D40?

>
> Another option might be a hot shoe slave to fire the flash.
>



Yep slave the flash and use the pop up flash as a light source.
 
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David Dyer-Bennet
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      02-05-2013
(E-Mail Removed)d (Ron) writes:

> I have an old external flash, a Sunpak 333D. Used it with my old Nikon
> FA but haven't used it on any camera since I went digital. Have heard
> that some older flashes have high voltages present at the hot shoe that
> could damage a digital camera. How can I tell if this flash is OK to use
> with something like my Nikon D40?


It won't work with iTTL, though; just A or manual, I believe. They had
to design a completely new TTL mode for digital because the sensor
reflectivity wasn't anything like film reflectivity (and the new mode
doesn't work nearly as well, drat it).
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nospam
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      02-05-2013
In article <510b307e$0$10793$(E-Mail Removed)-secrets.com>, PeterN
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> > I have an old external flash, a Sunpak 333D. Used it with my old Nikon
> > FA but haven't used it on any camera since I went digital. Have heard
> > that some older flashes have high voltages present at the hot shoe that
> > could damage a digital camera. How can I tell if this flash is OK to use
> > with something like my Nikon D40?

>
> No need to find out. For about $10 you can buy a device that will sit
> between your flash and the camera, that will protect your camera from
> high voltagge. I just forgot what it is called.


wein safe sync and it's *much* more than $10. it's also not needed.
 
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nospam
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      02-05-2013
In article <(E-Mail Removed)>, David Dyer-Bennet
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> > I have an old external flash, a Sunpak 333D. Used it with my old Nikon
> > FA but haven't used it on any camera since I went digital. Have heard
> > that some older flashes have high voltages present at the hot shoe that
> > could damage a digital camera. How can I tell if this flash is OK to use
> > with something like my Nikon D40?

>
> It won't work with iTTL, though; just A or manual, I believe. They had
> to design a completely new TTL mode for digital because the sensor
> reflectivity wasn't anything like film reflectivity (and the new mode
> doesn't work nearly as well, drat it).


the new ittl is *much* better and far more capable than the old ttl
ever was.
 
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David Dyer-Bennet
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      02-06-2013
nospam <(E-Mail Removed)> writes:

> In article <(E-Mail Removed)>, David Dyer-Bennet
> <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>> > I have an old external flash, a Sunpak 333D. Used it with my old Nikon
>> > FA but haven't used it on any camera since I went digital. Have heard
>> > that some older flashes have high voltages present at the hot shoe that
>> > could damage a digital camera. How can I tell if this flash is OK to use
>> > with something like my Nikon D40?

>>
>> It won't work with iTTL, though; just A or manual, I believe. They had
>> to design a completely new TTL mode for digital because the sensor
>> reflectivity wasn't anything like film reflectivity (and the new mode
>> doesn't work nearly as well, drat it).

>
> the new ittl is *much* better and far more capable than the old ttl
> ever was.


Not for producing accurately exposed pictures it isn't. The whole CLS
thing for controlling a group of flashes is pretty neat -- except that
it introduces enough delays that animals I've tried to use it with ALL
manage to blink during the actual exposure (it does test flashes in each
group, and then uses communication flashes to tell each group what power
to select, so that's a lot of pre-flash).
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