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Anybody have a Canon RS-60E3 cable release switch?

 
 
Peabody
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      10-16-2010
This is the wired switch that you plug into a stereo/audio type
jack on the camera, and it duplicates the function of the shutter
button. Like a cable release used to do back in the day.

I need to make one of these with a different style switch, but have
come across conflicting information online as to the wiring. It
has a standard 3-conductor plug, with sections I'll call tip, ring
(middle), and common (nearest the base).

So it's pretty clear that shorting ring and common causes the
camera to autofocus just like a half-press. And it's not quite so
clear that shorting tip and common takes a picture. But I'm
getting opposite info from different sources as to whether you need
to continue shorting ring and common while taking the picture.

I just wondered if anyone had one of these, and an ohmmeter, and
could tell me what's shorted when you do a half-press and a
full-press. Thanks very much.


 
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Irwell
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      10-16-2010
On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 09:25:52 -0500, Peabody wrote:

> This is the wired switch that you plug into a stereo/audio type
> jack on the camera, and it duplicates the function of the shutter
> button. Like a cable release used to do back in the day.
>
> I need to make one of these with a different style switch, but have
> come across conflicting information online as to the wiring. It
> has a standard 3-conductor plug, with sections I'll call tip, ring
> (middle), and common (nearest the base).
>
> So it's pretty clear that shorting ring and common causes the
> camera to autofocus just like a half-press. And it's not quite so
> clear that shorting tip and common takes a picture. But I'm
> getting opposite info from different sources as to whether you need
> to continue shorting ring and common while taking the picture.
>
> I just wondered if anyone had one of these, and an ohmmeter, and
> could tell me what's shorted when you do a half-press and a
> full-press. Thanks very much.


If you take off the back you can easily see the wiring
to the contacts. they usually have resistors in series
so it is a bit more than an open/closed type operation.
You could probably find the simple schematic if you do
a Google.
 
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J. Clarke
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      10-16-2010
In article <vensorde8s4s$.3e422kl24a79$(E-Mail Removed)>, http://www.velocityreviews.com/forums/(E-Mail Removed)
says...
>
> On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 09:25:52 -0500, Peabody wrote:
>
> > This is the wired switch that you plug into a stereo/audio type
> > jack on the camera, and it duplicates the function of the shutter
> > button. Like a cable release used to do back in the day.
> >
> > I need to make one of these with a different style switch, but have
> > come across conflicting information online as to the wiring. It
> > has a standard 3-conductor plug, with sections I'll call tip, ring
> > (middle), and common (nearest the base).
> >
> > So it's pretty clear that shorting ring and common causes the
> > camera to autofocus just like a half-press. And it's not quite so
> > clear that shorting tip and common takes a picture. But I'm
> > getting opposite info from different sources as to whether you need
> > to continue shorting ring and common while taking the picture.
> >
> > I just wondered if anyone had one of these, and an ohmmeter, and
> > could tell me what's shorted when you do a half-press and a
> > full-press. Thanks very much.

>
> If you take off the back you can easily see the wiring
> to the contacts. they usually have resistors in series
> so it is a bit more than an open/closed type operation.
> You could probably find the simple schematic if you do
> a Google.


Personally if I wanted to make such a thing I'd get a couple of switches
and a plug from Rat Shack and play with it until I figured out how it
worked.




 
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Ofnuts
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Posts: n/a
 
      10-16-2010
On 10/16/2010 04:25 PM, Peabody wrote:
> This is the wired switch that you plug into a stereo/audio type
> jack on the camera, and it duplicates the function of the shutter
> button. Like a cable release used to do back in the day.
>
> I need to make one of these with a different style switch, but have
> come across conflicting information online as to the wiring. It
> has a standard 3-conductor plug, with sections I'll call tip, ring
> (middle), and common (nearest the base).
>
> So it's pretty clear that shorting ring and common causes the
> camera to autofocus just like a half-press. And it's not quite so
> clear that shorting tip and common takes a picture. But I'm
> getting opposite info from different sources as to whether you need
> to continue shorting ring and common while taking the picture.
>
> I just wondered if anyone had one of these, and an ohmmeter, and
> could tell me what's shorted when you do a half-press and a
> full-press. Thanks very much.


Tip to common is shutter and ring to common is focus/metering. Resistors
are not needed (at least I used it without resistors and my 450D is
still alive). From my experientations, shutter contact requires some
hold (if you are designing an electronic trigger, I'm make sure it makes
contact for 100ms or so). If you are in manual mode on the camera there
is no need to make the metering contact.

--
Bertrand
 
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Ron
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      10-16-2010

"Peabody" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> This is the wired switch that you plug into a stereo/audio type
> jack on the camera, and it duplicates the function of the shutter
> button. Like a cable release used to do back in the day.
>
> I need to make one of these with a different style switch, but have
> come across conflicting information online as to the wiring. It
> has a standard 3-conductor plug, with sections I'll call tip, ring
> (middle), and common (nearest the base).
>
> So it's pretty clear that shorting ring and common causes the
> camera to autofocus just like a half-press. And it's not quite so
> clear that shorting tip and common takes a picture. But I'm
> getting opposite info from different sources as to whether you need
> to continue shorting ring and common while taking the picture.
>
> I just wondered if anyone had one of these, and an ohmmeter, and
> could tell me what's shorted when you do a half-press and a
> full-press. Thanks very much.
>

Check on e-bay, you should be able to buy a third party remote switch for
$5-$6 and possibly even get free shipping. I recently bought one for the
Canon 40D (different plug than what you want) with a focus position, take
photo and lock position all for $6 something including shipping.

Ron

 
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J. Clarke
Guest
Posts: n/a
 
      10-16-2010
In article <4cba02eb$0$1750$c3e8da3$(E-Mail Removed) m>,
(E-Mail Removed) says...
>
> "Peabody" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> > This is the wired switch that you plug into a stereo/audio type
> > jack on the camera, and it duplicates the function of the shutter
> > button. Like a cable release used to do back in the day.
> >
> > I need to make one of these with a different style switch, but have
> > come across conflicting information online as to the wiring. It
> > has a standard 3-conductor plug, with sections I'll call tip, ring
> > (middle), and common (nearest the base).
> >
> > So it's pretty clear that shorting ring and common causes the
> > camera to autofocus just like a half-press. And it's not quite so
> > clear that shorting tip and common takes a picture. But I'm
> > getting opposite info from different sources as to whether you need
> > to continue shorting ring and common while taking the picture.
> >
> > I just wondered if anyone had one of these, and an ohmmeter, and
> > could tell me what's shorted when you do a half-press and a
> > full-press. Thanks very much.
> >

> Check on e-bay, you should be able to buy a third party remote switch for
> $5-$6 and possibly even get free shipping. I recently bought one for the
> Canon 40D (different plug than what you want) with a focus position, take
> photo and lock position all for $6 something including shipping.


Just for those who don't know about them, for shutter releases try
dealextreme <http://www.dealextreme.com/>. They've got a wide range of
them, some of which look like they came out of the same factory as the
ones that camera manufacturers sell. Don't expect overnight delivery--
they ship by mail from Hong Kong, so sometimes things take a while to
arrive. You may have to do some searching to find what you need--their
site design isn't the best around. Note that most of their release
designs are available with several different connectors--make sure you
get the right one.




 
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Ollie Clark
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Posts: n/a
 
      10-20-2010
Peabody wrote:
> Ofnuts says...
>
> > Tip to common is shutter and ring to common is
> > focus/metering. Resistors are not needed (at least I
> > used it without resistors and my 450D is still alive).
> > From my experientations, shutter contact requires some
> > hold (if you are designing an electronic trigger, I'm
> > make sure it makes contact for 100ms or so). If you are
> > in manual mode on the camera there is no need to make
> > the metering contact.

>
> Thanks very much. So does it matter if the ring-to-common
> connection is maintained while you connect tip to common to
> take the picture?


I'm not sure if it matters to the camera but with the button
fully pressed, both the tip and ring are connected to common.

Cheers,

Ollie
 
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Ollie Clark
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Posts: n/a
 
      10-21-2010
Peabody wrote:
> Ollie Clark says...
>
> > I'm not sure if it matters to the camera but with the
> > button fully pressed, both the tip and ring are
> > connected to common.

>
> Thanks very much, Ollie.
>
> Taking this a bit further, I wonder what the XT would do if
> you just did the shutter click. The button on the camera
> can't do that because you have to go through half-press to
> do a full press. And the RS-60E3 works the same way. But
> in theory you could just do the shutter click alone. If
> that works, then you could build your own intervalometer for
> next to nothing.


I suspect that in manual focus mode it would take a picture but
that's just speculation. In auto-focus mode the camera won't take
a picture until it thinks it's in focus so you have to have the
half-press followed by the full press. You're pushing me towards
making a homemade shutter release and experimenting, aren't you?

If you can design an intervalometer that does a full press
then you should be able to design one that does a half press
shortly followed by a full press anyway.

> So I need to see if the manual will tell me what the half
> press does. Well, I know it does focusing, but does it also
> do exposure, or does it do that on full press.


Do you mean exposure metering? The camera seems to do that constantly
without the button pressed at all. There's an exposure lock button
on the camera if you want to meter for one thing and then take a
picture of something else.

Cheers,

Ollie
 
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Ollie Clark
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Posts: n/a
 
      10-22-2010
Peabody wrote:
> Ollie Clark says...
>
> > You're pushing me towards making a homemade shutter
> > release and experimenting, aren't you?

>
> No, but it wouldn't hurt my feeings if you did.
>
> > If you can design an intervalometer that does a full
> > press then you should be able to design one that does a
> > half press shortly followed by a full press anyway.

>
> Yes, I think I will do that. With a half-to-full delay of
> maybe 1/2 second? I guess one second might be safer.
> Certainly shouldn't need longer than that.


If you're using MF then I think 100ms would be more than enough.
If you're using AF then 1/2 should be plenty.

> It would just be a couple 555 timers, or maybe just one,
> powered by a 9-volt. Maybe $10-15. Hell, you could
> probably get one on Ebay for less, but where's the fun in
> that?


Exactly.

I think you'd need two 555s, one to time the delays between presses
and one to time the delay between a half-press and full-press.

Or you could go all out and use a crystal and a divider with accurate
user settable delays etc.

> As is the custom, we would put it in an Altoids
> tin. The biggest problem would be finding the
> right connector. I think it's a 2.5mm phono plug for my
> camera, but I think the newer models use a proprietary
> connector.


It's a 2.5mm jack on mine (EOS 400/XTi), probably the same as
yours. Up to the T2i/550d they still use a 2.5mm jack.

> > Do you mean exposure metering? The camera seems to do
> > that constantly without the button pressed at all.
> > There's an exposure lock button on the camera if you
> > want to meter for one thing and then take a picture of
> > something else.

>
> Well, I don't know. My XT manual says a half-press sets
> focus and exposure. But there is also an AE lock button. I
> don't see any indication anywhere that it's doing anything
> unless there's at least a half-press.


If you put it in aperture priority and look through the view
finder you'll see the shutter speed changing until you press
the AE lock button. Then you can compose your picture, focus
with a half-press and take it with a full press.

> If there's really any interest in an intervalometer, I can
> do that. I know little about photography, but electronics
> is my thing, and Canon has simplified things by designing
> the remote to work the way it does. Actually, I don't think
> you want to be doing thousands of shutter actuations on a
> DSLR to do timelapse. That's what Canon P&S's are for,
> using CHDK. But it might be nice to be able to take an
> unattended string of 20 or 30 exposures over, say, an hour.


I think there's plenty of interest in intervalometers judging
by the many ones available on ebay. Almost all of which are
cheaper than building one yourself. If you want to build one
for fun, go ahead. If you're trying to save money just buy a
third party one!

You're right about the thousands of actuations. I believe the
shutter on low end Canons is rated at 30000 actuations. Mine's
living on borrowed time.

Cheers,

Ollie
 
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