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P&S junk. Adding a teleconverter just makes it worse

 
 
Rich
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      11-25-2009
Poor fellow. I tried with with an Olympus C-8080 years ago and even
with it's lens, the images sucked. The worst 70-300mm $180 zoom on a
DSLR would do better.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=33791622
 
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me
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      11-25-2009
On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:35:56 -0800 (PST), Rich <>
wrote:

>Poor fellow. I tried with with an Olympus C-8080 years ago and even
>with it's lens, the images sucked. The worst 70-300mm $180 zoom on a
>DSLR would do better.
>
>http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=33791622


Once again too bad Rich makes generalizations from everything he
reads!

The Nikon 990/4500 series + converters was a awell thought out and
designed system. TC, WA and Fisheye.
 
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me
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      11-25-2009
On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:35:56 -0800 (PST), Rich <>
wrote:

>Poor fellow. I tried with with an Olympus C-8080 years ago and even
>with it's lens, the images sucked. The worst 70-300mm $180 zoom on a
>DSLR would do better.
>
>http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=33791622


Even worse RichA BS. All photos are taken at 1/200s or less shutter
speed. With camera only 35mm equiv fl of 485-500+ let alone add
theTC. Just one 1/160s with the FZ-18 is shown for comparison with
the conclusion the FZ-18 is superior to the FZ-35.

Looks more like it's the inability to handhold long exposures at lomg
focal lengths might be the real issue here.

Another example of why we should killfile richA.


 
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Rich
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      11-25-2009


me wrote:
> On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:35:56 -0800 (PST), Rich <>
> wrote:
>
> >Poor fellow. I tried with with an Olympus C-8080 years ago and even
> >with it's lens, the images sucked. The worst 70-300mm $180 zoom on a
> >DSLR would do better.
> >
> >http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=33791622

>
> Even worse RichA BS. All photos are taken at 1/200s or less shutter
> speed. With camera only 35mm equiv fl of 485-500+ let alone add
> theTC. Just one 1/160s with the FZ-18 is shown for comparison with
> the conclusion the FZ-18 is superior to the FZ-35.
>
> Looks more like it's the inability to handhold long exposures at lomg
> focal lengths might be the real issue here.
>
> Another example of why we should killfile richA.


Forget the blurring from motion, look at the fuzziness from spherical
aberration and the gross chromatic aberration! You can't just slap a
"lens on a lens" and expect it to work well.

 
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DSLR-Troll Killer
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      11-25-2009
On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 18:44:02 -0800 (PST), Rich <>
wrote:

>
>
>me wrote:
>> On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:35:56 -0800 (PST), Rich <>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Poor fellow. I tried with with an Olympus C-8080 years ago and even
>> >with it's lens, the images sucked. The worst 70-300mm $180 zoom on a
>> >DSLR would do better.
>> >
>> >http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=33791622

>>
>> Even worse RichA BS. All photos are taken at 1/200s or less shutter
>> speed. With camera only 35mm equiv fl of 485-500+ let alone add
>> theTC. Just one 1/160s with the FZ-18 is shown for comparison with
>> the conclusion the FZ-18 is superior to the FZ-35.
>>
>> Looks more like it's the inability to handhold long exposures at lomg
>> focal lengths might be the real issue here.
>>
>> Another example of why we should killfile richA.

>
>Forget the blurring from motion, look at the fuzziness from spherical
>aberration and the gross chromatic aberration! You can't just slap a
>"lens on a lens" and expect it to work well.


Are you aware that all the zoom lenses for DSLRs are just slapping lenses
on other lens arrays to achieve those longer focal lengths? The only
difference is that you buy them that way already attached together in a
single lens barrel. In P&S cameras you just happen to have the front
elements that comprise the telescopic part removable when needed, or if you
don't want to buy that portion of a longer focal-length lens. While some
might consider "shopping around" for the right conversion lenses to match
the existing optics on your camera a major pain in the ass, I actually
enjoy the hunt in trying to find the best teleconverter or wide-angle
adapter from Company-A that works best with P&S camera from Company-B. Many
cross-company matches working far better than A's converter matched to A's
camera. In doing so I also found fish-eye adapters for under $100 that beat
the pants off of any dedicated $2500 Nikkor fisheye lenses for any D/SLR.
But you wouldn't know anything about this, because you've never owned ANY
camera, P&S or otherwise.

Like this quick example:
<http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2512/4132272547_6448e0b6f2_o.jpg>

[Note to moron trolls: Do not misconstrue the pixel-sharp details due to
over-sharpening. That's due to Lanczos-8 downsampling retaining as much
detail as possible from the original image along with JPG compression
artifacts for web posting. Pixel-peeping reveals no halos, just JPG
compression artifacts that you will ignorantly try to see as
over-sharpening.]


But you're right, you can't slap "a lens on a lens" and expect good
results. You get even better results if you slap "a lens on a lens on a
lens". To borrow a well known example posted by someone else long ago:

"Following is a link to a hand-held taken image of a 432mm
f/3.5 P&S lens increased to an effective 2197mm f/3.5 lens by using two
high-quality teleconverters. To achieve that apparent focal-length the
photographer also added a small step of 1.7x digital zoom to take advantage
of the RAW sensor's slightly greater detail retention when upsampled
directly in the camera for JPG output. As opposed to trying to upsample a
JPG image on the computer where those finer RAW sensor details are already
lost once it's left the camera's processing. (Digital-zoom is not totally
empty zoom, contrary to all the net-parroting idiots online.) A HAND-HELD
2197mm f/3.5 image from a P&S camera (downsized only, no crop):
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3141/...1dbdb8ac_o.jpg Note that
any in-focus details are cleanly defined to the corners and there is no CA
whatsoever. If you study the EXIF data the author reduced contrast and
sharpening by 2-steps, which accounts for the slight softness overall. Any
decent photographer will handle those operations properly in editing with
more powerful tools and not allow a camera to do them for him. A full f/3.5
aperture achieved at an effective focal-length of 2197mm (35mm
equivalent)."

Care to show us any hand-held photos take with *YOUR* DSLR with a 2197mm
EFL lens at f/3.5? C'mon, any of you DSLR-Trolls? The offer will remain
open for as long as you live.

If not, you get to shut up now.

 
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Bhogi
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      11-25-2009
On 25 nov., 07:05, DSLR-Troll Killer <d...@trollkillers.org> wrote:
> Care to show us any hand-held photos take with *YOUR* DSLR with a 2197mm
> EFL lens at f/3.5? C'mon, any of you DSLR-Trolls? The offer will remain
> open for as long as you live.
>
> If not, you get to shut up now.


So, what you're saying is, you have a 628mm diameter lens attached to
your camera?
 
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DSLR-Troll Killer
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      11-25-2009
On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 06:14:37 -0800 (PST), Bhogi <> wrote:

>On 25 nov., 07:05, DSLR-Troll Killer <d...@trollkillers.org> wrote:
>> Care to show us any hand-held photos take with *YOUR* DSLR with a 2197mm
>> EFL lens at f/3.5? C'mon, any of you DSLR-Trolls? The offer will remain
>> open for as long as you live.
>>
>> If not, you get to shut up now.

>
>So, what you're saying is, you have a 628mm diameter lens attached to
>your camera?


An ignorant and idiot pretend-photographer DSLR-Troll would say that, yes.

2197mm EFL / 1.7 (digital zoom) = 1292mm EFL

1292mm EFL / 6 (sensor crop factor) = 215mm EFL

215mm EFL / 3.5 (aperture) = 61.5mm required physical diameter.

Nearly all teleconverters for all P&S cameras have more physical diameter
than 2.4 inches. My favorite one to ensure no aperture loss has an
entrance-pupil of 80mm (3.15 inches).

Got that?

Now go stick your tongue in a light-socket with it plugged in and turned on
to find out how electricity works.

 
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DSLR-Troll Killer
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      11-25-2009
Ooops, got carried away with typing EFL instead of true focal length in the
equations. It was so much easier to type.

On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 06:14:37 -0800 (PST), Bhogi <> wrote:

>On 25 nov., 07:05, DSLR-Troll Killer <d...@trollkillers.org> wrote:
>> Care to show us any hand-held photos take with *YOUR* DSLR with a 2197mm
>> EFL lens at f/3.5? C'mon, any of you DSLR-Trolls? The offer will remain
>> open for as long as you live.
>>
>> If not, you get to shut up now.

>
>So, what you're saying is, you have a 628mm diameter lens attached to
>your camera?


An ignorant and idiot pretend-photographer DSLR-Troll would say that, yes.

2197mm EFL / 1.7 (digital zoom) = 1292mm EFL

1292mm EFL / 6 (sensor crop factor) = 215mm true focal length

215mm true focal length / 3.5 (aperture) = 61.5mm required physical
diameter of the entrance pupil.

Nearly all teleconverters for all P&S cameras have more physical diameter
than 2.4 inches. My favorite one to ensure no aperture loss has an
entrance-pupil of 80mm (3.15 inches).

Got that?

Now go stick your tongue in a light-socket with it plugged in and turned on
to find out how electricity works.

 
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Bhogi
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Posts: n/a
 
      11-25-2009
On 25 nov., 15:34, DSLR-Troll Killer <d...@trollkillers.org> wrote:
> Ooops, got carried away with typing EFL instead of true focal length in the
> equations. It was so much easier to type.


Don't worry you're still wrong.

Comparing effective focal lengths but ignoring sensor pixel sizes is
your mistake.
What does focal ratio mean to you anyway?
With respect to things that matter in photography (light sensitivity,
DOF, softening due to diffraction) when you compare EFLs of P&S to
DSLR you should also calculate "effective aperture ratio", which in
your case is about f/12.
Tried some night shots with your super duper fast 61.5mm telescope
lately?

p.s.
Why compare with DSLRs, compare with 4x5 large format, then you'll
kick some serious ass with 12000mm EFL @ f/3.5!
Think about it.


> On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 06:14:37 -0800 (PST), Bhogi <bh...@siol.com> wrote:
> >On 25 nov., 07:05, DSLR-Troll Killer <d...@trollkillers.org> wrote:
> >> Care to show us any hand-held photos take with *YOUR* DSLR with a 2197mm
> >> EFL lens at f/3.5? C'mon, any of you DSLR-Trolls? The offer will remain
> >> open for as long as you live.

>
> >> If not, you get to shut up now.

>
> >So, what you're saying is, you have a 628mm diameter lens attached to
> >your camera?

>
> An ignorant and idiot pretend-photographer DSLR-Troll would say that, yes..
>
> 2197mm EFL */ 1.7 (digital zoom) = 1292mm EFL
>
> 1292mm EFL / 6 (sensor crop factor) = 215mm true focal length
>
> 215mm true focal length */ 3.5 (aperture) = 61.5mm required physical
> diameter of the entrance pupil.
>
> Nearly all teleconverters for all P&S cameras have more physical diameter
> than 2.4 inches. My favorite one to ensure no aperture loss has an
> entrance-pupil of 80mm (3.15 inches).
>
> Got that?
>
> Now go stick your tongue in a light-socket with it plugged in and turned on
> to find out how electricity works.

 
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DSLR-Troll Killer
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Posts: n/a
 
      11-25-2009
On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:37:34 -0800 (PST), Bhogi <> wrote:

>On 25 nov., 15:34, DSLR-Troll Killer <d...@trollkillers.org> wrote:
>> Ooops, got carried away with typing EFL instead of true focal length in the
>> equations. It was so much easier to type.

>
>Don't worry you're still wrong.
>
>Comparing effective focal lengths but ignoring sensor pixel sizes is
>your mistake.
>What does focal ratio mean to you anyway?
>With respect to things that matter in photography (light sensitivity,
>DOF, softening due to diffraction) when you compare EFLs of P&S to
>DSLR you should also calculate "effective aperture ratio", which in
>your case is about f/12.


That's only relevant to DOF.

Holy **** are you DSLR trolls ever ****ing iditos.


>Tried some night shots with your super duper fast 61.5mm telescope
>lately?
>
>p.s.
>Why compare with DSLRs, compare with 4x5 large format, then you'll
>kick some serious ass with 12000mm EFL @ f/3.5!
>Think about it.
>
>
>> On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 06:14:37 -0800 (PST), Bhogi <bh...@siol.com> wrote:
>> >On 25 nov., 07:05, DSLR-Troll Killer <d...@trollkillers.org> wrote:
>> >> Care to show us any hand-held photos take with *YOUR* DSLR with a 2197mm
>> >> EFL lens at f/3.5? C'mon, any of you DSLR-Trolls? The offer will remain
>> >> open for as long as you live.

>>
>> >> If not, you get to shut up now.

>>
>> >So, what you're saying is, you have a 628mm diameter lens attached to
>> >your camera?

>>
>> An ignorant and idiot pretend-photographer DSLR-Troll would say that, yes.
>>
>> 2197mm EFL */ 1.7 (digital zoom) = 1292mm EFL
>>
>> 1292mm EFL / 6 (sensor crop factor) = 215mm true focal length
>>
>> 215mm true focal length */ 3.5 (aperture) = 61.5mm required physical
>> diameter of the entrance pupil.
>>
>> Nearly all teleconverters for all P&S cameras have more physical diameter
>> than 2.4 inches. My favorite one to ensure no aperture loss has an
>> entrance-pupil of 80mm (3.15 inches).
>>
>> Got that?
>>
>> Now go stick your tongue in a light-socket with it plugged in and turned on
>> to find out how electricity works.

 
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