In message <t->, Zootal
<> writes
>
>"Ian Jackson" <> wrote in message
>news:...
>> In message <HAhcm.73167$2>, ian field
>> <> writes
>>>
>>>"Ian Jackson" <> wrote in message
>>>news
...
>>>> In message <AC3cm.163781$2>, ian field
>>>> <> writes
>>>>>
>>>>>"Ian Jackson" <> wrote in message
>>>>>news:RK8$...
>>>>>> In message <Bqfam.7029$>, rf
>>>>>> <> writes
>>>>>>>Roger Dewhurst wrote:
>>>>>>>>> You can get simple to use regulator chips that drop the voltage
>>>>>>>>> down, you only need a couple of components to make a working
>>>>>>>>> voltage
>>>>>>>>> regulator. Ask on News:sci.electronics.basic - the folk on there
>>>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>>>> usually very helpful and should explain all you need.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Why not just drop the voltage through a few diodes? Very simple.
>>>>>>>> Very
>>>>>>>> cheap.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>A *few* diodes at a couple of ten cents per each. A single 7809 for
>>>>>>>less
>>>>>>>that a $.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> More like "a *few* diodes at a couple of cents per each".
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 3V to drop = 5 diodes @ 0.6V per diode. No other circuitry required.
>>>>>> More
>>>>>> than good enough for the job.
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Ian
>>>>>
>>>>>The forward conduction knee curve on diodes isn't *that* sharp,
>>>>>depending
>>>>>on
>>>>>current draw and rating of the diode the drop can be as low as 0.55V and
>>>>>as
>>>>>high as 1.1V.
>>>>>
>>>> For most 'normal' Si diodes, that isn't really the case. The actual
>>>> voltage drop does, of course, increase with current, but at 'sensible'
>>>> currents, you can reckon on around 0.65V per diode. How much current is
>>>> the Tardis toy going to take? 1A max? 4 or 5 1N4000-series diodes should
>>>> work fine in this application. I've used this non-elegant 'KISS'
>>>> technique
>>>> on several occasions, and haven't found any problems.
>>>> --
>>>> Ian
>>>
>>>A potential danger with a cassette recorder is the difference in current
>>>draw between motor on and motor off. In the condition of low current draw
>>>(and low diode drop) supply decoupling electrolytic capacitors can charge
>>>to
>>>a higher voltage which is then dumped into the circuit when switched to
>>>play.
>>>
>> True, true. But I reckon that a momentary short burst of a
>> rapidly-decaying additional 3V won't hurt too much.
>> --
>> Ian
>
>It won't even be noticeable. The capacitors won't charge up that high to
>start with, and they don't "dump" into the circuit, they just quickly
>discharge down to the lower voltage that is present at the output of the
>last diode - how fast this happens depends on the size of the caps and the
>load. I wouldn't even call it a surge. A resistor from the last diode to
>ground will prevent them from charging more then a few tenths of a volt and
>is a good idea.
Indeed. A bleed of a few mA will prevent the off-load voltage rising to
12V. 9V at 10mA would require 900 ohms (say 1k), 90mW (so even a 1/4W
will do).
>And the capacitor doesn't need to be that big.
>
Which capacitor do you mean?
>I would *not* use 1n400x diodes. ~1 amp will make them hot and susceptible
>to failure. Use 2 or 3 amp diodes, they are cheap and readily available.
>They are bigger and will run cooler and won't fail as easily.
1A through diodes dropping 0.6V means 600mW per diode. 1N4000-type will
run a bit warm, so maybe a physically larger (higher current) diode
might be better. But it depends on how much current the Tardis takes!
>Or use two
>strings of 1n400x in series, that is good enough for an app like this.
>
>So - 12v -> diode -> diode -> diode -> diode -> ~9.2v Output
>
That's only one string of diodes in series. Did you mean parallel? If
so, no, you shouldn't parallel diodes. As you suggest, use higher
current diodes.
>From the output run a 470 ohm half watt resistor through a standard 1/4" LED
>to ground (I like the LED so you can see when the circuit is on). In
>parallel to this connect a capacitor, say 100uF. Presto, ~9.2V, adequately
>regulated, and minimal voltage increase when the load is off.
>
The cap isn't a bad idea, but 470 ohms will give you around 14mA through
the LED (allowing 2V for the LED). Anything between 470 ohms and 1k
should be fine.
--
Ian