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fill light source size vs main light size

 
 
Dudley Hanks
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      12-13-2008

<jpc> wrote in message news:...
> On Wed, 10 Dec 2008 19:39:11 -0800 (PST), ""
> <> wrote:
>
>>when using studio strobes does it matter that the fill light source is
>>a larger one than the main light source as long as it is at less
>>power ?.
>>a larger softbox as fill vs a smaller softbox as main .
>>
>>im know the end result is that matters but what is the correct way ?
>>
>>oleuncleted

>
>
> No correct way but if you are after the classic 'send to grandma'
> portrait look-- yes.
>
> Main light is a spot which casts hard shadows. Fill light is a
> diffuse light source that fills and breaks up the shadows.
>
> For the classic look I use a direct flash as a main light and a flash
> with a reflecting umbrella behind the camera as a fill . But play
> around. And the perfect model for your testing is a big doll
> head--bratz or the like. They never become bored and complain.


Ain't it the truth... Real kids get bored REALLY fast when it's time to set
up lighting...

As for the flash configuration, the fill doesn't effect the picture as much
as the key light. With either box in front of the subject, you should get a
nice even lighting which won't throw any shadows, so your shaded areas will
look good.

When it comes to the main, or key, light, you can really bring out your
subjects best features by moving the softbox around. Try changing both the
distance from the subject as well as the angle the light is offset from the
camera / subject axis.

Placing the light at about a 45 degree offset will give you a more
traditional look, while moving it to about 90 degrees can give you a much
more dramatic side-lit effect. Also, if you can get some height on the key,
your pics will probably look a bit better.

One thing you didn't mention is whether you will use a third flash to give
your background a graduated appearance. If possible, try to put a third,
smaller flash, behind the subject directed so that the brightest part of the
light is down behind the subject, not really visible. Then, as the eye
moves up the backdrop, it gradually gets darker. This can help add some
separation to the image -- helping the subject to appear more naturally
situated.

Lastly, try varying the lighting ratio, which is to say, setting the output
of the key to twice the power of the fill yields a 2:1 ratio; if it is
three times as bright, the ratio will be 3:1.

Using a variety of ratios such as 3:2, 4:3, etc will also add some life to
the image.

Good Luck,
Dudley


 
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