"Jimchip" <> wrote in message
news:...
| On 2006-07-27, Plato <|@|.|> wrote:
| > My daughter found a kitten on her boyfriends porch and brought it home.
| > I insisted that she could only bring it home if it was a female but
| > alas, it turned out to be a male. My question is:
| > Yes I know male cats are born to spray. In your experience does
| > neutering them take away the urge to spray or does neutering sometimes
| > work and sometimes not work.
A little off topic, but what the hell. ; )
I can see why you came to helpdesk. There is no mention it HAS to be help
for computers only. : )
"Jimchip" wrote
| Neutering makes them...neuter. Cat's seem to **** wherever they damned
| well please but can be trained to use a litter box.
I think he means neutering makes them neutral. A neutered male will be less
likely to run away and spray. If you neuter them early enough in life, they
won't even try. (I believe the proper age is somewhere close to 1 year old.
A vet can help you to get a good approximation of age by looking at his
teeth.) Some claim neutering makes them more docile. I disbelieve the last
claim. One of my male cats has been neutered and still likes to play and run
around the house. I guess it affects each individual cat differently.
Actually litter training is very easy at any age.
1. get a litter box
2. fill it with some nice sand like clumping litter or shredded newspapers
(newspaper requires getting used to the smell.)
3. Wait. Don't force him. It is a good idea to show him where it is located
(make sure you pick a good spot, moving it too much could confuse him).
4. Do nothing while he uses the litter box, give him a treat after he
finishes and a little praise. Kind of like potty training a child, except
that cats tend to pick it up more quickly. After all, they naturally would
rather go somewhere where they can bury their feces. The nice loose sand of
kitty litter is perfect for them.
5. A clean litter box is very important, clean it with a scoop at least once
a day to encourage use. A neglected litter box is an unused litter box. You
wouldn't want to scratch around in your own feces either.
6. If he is urinating anywhere he pleases, use a spray bottle with water in
it. Make sure you rinsed it out of whatever was previously in it before.
Better yet, use a new one you can buy for a modest price at any garden
center. Give him a squirt when ever you catch him IN THE ACT of urinating
anywhere, except outdoors or in the litter box. This can be used for other
behavioral modifications too. This is the 'carrot and stick' approach (with
getting a little wet instead of hit with a stick.)
NEVER squirt him after he has committed the crime and you have just
discovered it. He could have done it a few minutes or hours ago. He will
not realize what you are squirting him for and think that you are just being
mean and try to stay away from you. Think of how a baby would feel. It's
almost the same thing.
"Jimchip" wrote
| The recommendation
| for a single cat is to have two litter boxes. For 2 cats one |can get by
| with 3 litter boxes.
3 litter boxes for two cats? Actually the recommendation from my vet is one
litter box per cat. However, I have heard differing opinions on this
subject. I have two cats and two litter boxes and clean them every morning
using a litter scoop. I use a good odor absorbing litter that clumps when
wet to get the urine out. (avoid crystals made from silica, somehow that
doesn't sound safe for a cat to scratch around in.) After one week I dump
all the litter in the garbage (it ruins compost, unfortunately. I have heard
you can place it around your house or garden. It's supposed to keep mice and
other feline prey from getting too close. Humans too, for that matter. LOL
I don't recommend this practice because of the risk of toxoplasmosis.),
Clean out the litter boxes using a little bit of bleach and soap, rinse
well, dry and refill with fresh litter. This helps to prevent
toxoplasmosis, a nasty bacteria that can be very serious to young children,
pregnant or nursing women, and the elderly. It takes a week to develop into
the infectious stage in the litter box. Cats carry the disease, but are not
affected by it. It is excreted in their feces at one stage in the
bacteria's life cycle. If you are a longtime or previous cat owner, you may
have had toxoplasmosis at one time in your life and did not realize it. The
symptoms are very flu like. If you have had it, (which is VERY likely for
previous cat owners.) you have the anti-bodies for it and are immune.
Except in the cases mentioned before. This is why they advise pregnant
women and elderly to avoid cleaning out the litter box.
"Jimchip" wrote
| Females would have to be neutered unless you like kittens or you really
It's really kind of hard to neuter a female anything. Actually its
impossible to do so. ; )
The word you were looking for was spayed. Females get spayed, Males get
neutered. : )
If you need assistance in paying for the operation, look to your local
humane society or ASPCA (or something like it if you live in another
country.) They sometimes offer a coupon you can use as a discount at
participating veterinarians. You can also look for these coupons online.
It's been awhile, so I don't remember exactly where I got them, but I saved
about 45% off the price. Also consider yourself lucky. Males are much less
expensive than females to get 'fixed'.
To de-claw or not to de-claw? I don't agree with de-clawing at all, not
only is it the most important defense a cat has, it is also a way they
express pleasure. The do this by sort of kneading with their front paws.
De-clawing is like you are cutting your fingers off back to the knuckle.
OUCH!
It will take awhile to train him, but it will happen. Just have patience,
and above all else, love. Eventually, the scratching of furniture will stop
or become a rare occurrence. Use a behavior modification method (like the
spray bottle) and purchase or make a scratching post for him to use instead.
(Try not to use staples or nails while putting on the carpet or rope. He
could catch his nails on them and get stuck or hurt. Scratching will happen.
You'll see.)
If you believe him sensible enough to no longer scratch on furniture and he
does anyway, this could indicate that he needs his nails trimmed. You can
tell if he 'clicks' on a hard floor as well. Your vet should teach you
proper nail trimming techniques. Use a scissor style clipper for cats, not
the cigar cutter type. The latter is for dogs.
Only feed your new kitty, 'Dry' cat food, the kind that comes in a bag. The
canned food is called wet food and is much more expensive. The dry food is
better for them, it encourages them to drink plenty of water. (You should
always have a water bowl filled with fresh, clean water at least once a day.
My cats 'demand' to have it refreshed once in the morning and once at
night.)This helps avoid kidney,liver and Urinary Tract problems later in
life that can lead to premature death or painful suffering that can only be
stopped through euthanasia or 'putting them to sleep'.
Purina is a good brand to use, they have a very good mix of the vitamins and
minerals cats need. Start with 'Purina kitten chow', then once he is old
enough (as indicated on the bag), switch to 'Cat Chow' or 'Natural Blends'
(I think the latter is the best one, my cats do too.)
As for keeping the cat outside. It is highly recommended to keep your new
companion indoors. Indoor cats statistically live longer than outdoor cats.
However, your cat may have other ideas. Here is a few tips I learned from
the experience of having an (insistent) outdoor cat.
1. I only recommend it in rural areas where traffic is light and he will
have plenty of room to roam without the need to cross roads.
2. Instead of letting him out at night, train him to only go out during the
day. Naturally, cats are nocturnal but they can be easily trained to be
diurnal. Night time is when cats are more likely to get injured from a
fight with a predator, other cats, or hit by a car.
3. Have a can of his favorite snack available. A dry but soft snack is
recommended. When you want him to come in, shake the can as you call his
name. When he finally does come in (could be awhile, so, have patience),
give him a treat. You can train him this way so he will eventually come
when you shake the can or call him.
4. On days where it is extremely hot, avoid letting him out between 10 AM
and 4 PM. This is the hottest part of the day. Make sure he has access to
plenty of cool water. If he does seem like he is too hot or overheating,
rub rubbing alcohol on the bottoms of his paws. This will help to cool him
off. If he still doesn't seem to be feeling better get him to a vet. He
could be in danger of a heat stroke, a common cause of death in household
pets.
5. In the wintertime when it is too cold. He probably won't want to go out
anyway.
Finally, get regular vet checkups and make sure all his shots are up to
date.
I hope these tips have helped.
Have anymore questions about your new friend, you can email me at
. I have had cats since I was a little boy. I have
obtained quite a bit of knowledge on them and I am a member on the board of
my local ASPCA. (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.)
No, I am not a vegetarian or 'stop the slaughter' type. Leave that to PETA.
Here is the ASPCA's web site and they can help answer your questions too.
http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer
--
Happy Computing!

(or catting?) LOL