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Sky filters, anti-blue hue for daylight shots.

Noted* color names I have given relate to the color scale verticle
in the middle of the color picker pallet, not the actual color as seen.

Menu:
Image/Adjustments/Photo Filter

red-brown*:
FFC1A2 r255 g193 b162 (20-30%)

red-magenta*:
FFA2CE r255 g162 b206 (15%)

red-orange*:
FFB6A2 r255 g182 b162 (30%)

tan, strong:
B87E39 r184 g126 b57 (20%)

which is close to the

sepia standard filter in PS CS:
AC7A33 r172 g122 b51 (20%)

Copy and paste into a text if anyone can use them because that
pallet does not have a save option, at least in CS1. I cannot
find anything on this subject anywhere online!

Has anyone experimented with this idea? Or does anyone have
other and possibly better ideas for sky filters?

--
}<)))*> Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:
> Sky filters, anti-blue hue for daylight shots.
>
> Noted* color names I have given relate to the color scale verticle
> in the middle of the color picker pallet, not the actual color as
> seen. [...]
> Has anyone experimented with this idea? Or does anyone have
> other and possibly better ideas for sky filters?

I cannot tell exactly what you are trying to achieve, but I will assume you
want the effects with color images. CS2 has color filters under Adjustments.

If you are applying the same to B&W, then it is best to go to the RGB
channels to adjust colors.

> I cannot tell exactly what you are trying to achieve, but I will assume you
> want the effects with color images. CS2 has color filters under Adjustments.
>
> If you are applying the same to B&W, then it is best to go to the RGB
> channels to adjust colors.
>
>

hhmmm... you don't know SLR photography? A sky filter is made of glass
placed within a metal ring which threads into the front of a lens. The "sky"
filters are strengths of "1A" and "1B".

If shooting long distance against distant buildings and mountains, massive
atmosphere between you and your subject, the atmosphere does us a sarcastic
favor and gives a nasty blue hue to your film, or camera CCD/CMOS. And
it comes out clearly in the resulting print/digital file.

The sky filters correct this problem by giving a coloration which counteracts
the blue hue. Concerning Photoshop, or digital graphics work in general, this
photography issue isn't addressed anywhere online that I can find.

--
}<)))*> Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"AAvK" <> wrote in message
news:sNJRg.1120$ef2.588@fed1read09...
>
>> I cannot tell exactly what you are trying to achieve, but I will assume
>> you want the effects with color images. CS2 has color filters under
>> Adjustments.
>>
>> If you are applying the same to B&W, then it is best to go to the RGB
>> channels to adjust colors.
>>
>
> hhmmm... you don't know SLR photography? A sky filter is made of glass
> placed within a metal ring which threads into the front of a lens. The
> "sky" filters are strengths of "1A" and "1B".

Why only "SLR" photography? Fixed lens cameras also suffer from the
"problem" you describe.

> If shooting long distance against distant buildings and mountains, massive
> atmosphere between you and your subject, the atmosphere does us a
> sarcastic favor and gives a nasty blue hue to your film, or camera
> CCD/CMOS.

Colour perspective /Spatial separation. The brain compensates, cameras
don't.
Have you tried shooting in RAW or with different white balances (cloudy in
your example)?

> And it comes out clearly in the resulting print/digital file.

Shouldn't do if you are using PS correctly , adjustment layers etc.,
>
> The sky filters correct this problem by giving a coloration which
> counteracts the blue hue. Concerning Photoshop, or digital graphics work
> in general, this photography issue isn't addressed anywhere online that I
> can find.

Maybe this is because this form of correction is no longer the problem it
used to be when using PS/digital cameras. The trouble with using any piece
of glass in front of any optic is that it can introduce other problems, loss
of quality, flare,etc., Also, any correction it provides is applied to the
whole image, not always desirable. A "pink" filter used to correct a
blue/hazey background will also affect foreground whites for example.With
PS, you can apply any correction that a filter provides and you can apply it
selectively, just to one part of an image or different strengths to
different parts of the image.
The only use for the aforementioned filters are to provide protection to the
lens front element. Saying that, I use a circular polarizer on all my
landscape shots, as I found that it is quicker to get the effect I want in
camera, than post camera.

MH

"AAvK" <> wrote in message
news:sNJRg.1120$ef2.588@fed1read09...
....
[re using Photoshop to get a Sky 1A filter effect]
> The sky filters correct this problem by giving a coloration which
> counteracts the blue hue. Concerning Photoshop, or digital graphics work
> in general, this photography issue isn't addressed anywhere online that I
> can find.

The best book I've seen on this is Professional Photoshop by Dan Margulis.

The overall haze is dealt with by setting a shadow point, and the blue cast
would be fixed when setting a neutral, or other reference color, during a
color correction. Blue haze in particular may be dealt with using a
specific curve adjustment in the Blue channel. Digital offers several
advantages over an optical filter: saturation may be increased, the amount
of change can be varied according to the intensity of light, and the effect
may be restricted to certain parts of the image using masks.

If you have a particular image, perhaps you can make it available online.
--
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com/forum/

"Mike Russell" <RE--MOVE> wrote in message
news:Y2ORg.5259$ m...
> "AAvK" <> wrote in message
> news:sNJRg.1120$ef2.588@fed1read09...
> ...
> [re using Photoshop to get a Sky 1A filter effect]
>> The sky filters correct this problem by giving a coloration which
>> counteracts the blue hue. Concerning Photoshop, or digital graphics work
>> in general, this photography issue isn't addressed anywhere online that I
>> can find.
>
> The best book I've seen on this is Professional Photoshop by Dan Margulis.

See also Photoshop Lab Color, The Canyon Conundrum....et al by the same
author.

MH
>
> The overall haze is dealt with by setting a shadow point, and the blue
> cast would be fixed when setting a neutral, or other reference color,
> during a color correction. Blue haze in particular may be dealt with
> using a specific curve adjustment in the Blue channel. Digital offers
> several advantages over an optical filter: saturation may be increased,
> the amount of change can be varied according to the intensity of light,
> and the effect may be restricted to certain parts of the image using
> masks.
>
> If you have a particular image, perhaps you can make it available online.
> --
> Mike Russell
> www.curvemeister.com/forum/
>
>

"AAvK" <> wrote:

> hhmmm... you don't know SLR photography?

SLR photography is no different from any other.

> If shooting long distance against distant buildings and mountains, massive
> atmosphere between you and your subject, the atmosphere does us a
> sarcastic favor and gives a nasty blue hue to your film, or camera
> CCD/CMOS.

The filters you mention have a mild effect upon the blue caused by
light-scattering haze. They might have a very slight effect in apparent
reduction of haze. As I wrote, CS2 has PhotoFilter adjustments to 'simulate'
the color correction.

Old N Slow:
Granny <> typed:
[snip]
> I use a circular polarizer on
> all my landscape shots, as I found that it is quicker to get the
> effect I want in camera, than post camera.
>
> MH

The Polarizer is almost a permanent fixture on my SLR... If I want
"Pink" anywhere in particular or everywhere then it gets Photoshopped
--
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

"granny" <> wrote in message
newsuVRg.700$...
> Old N Slow:
> Granny <> typed:
> [snip]
>> I use a circular polarizer on
>> all my landscape shots, as I found that it is quicker to get the
>> effect I want in camera, than post camera.
>>
>> MH
>
> The Polarizer is almost a permanent fixture on my SLR... If I want "Pink"
> anywhere in particular or everywhere then it gets Photoshopped

Well said that Granny


> --
> "Granny"
> Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy
??

prefer quick'n'dirty myself

MH

Old N Slow:
Granny <> typed:
[snip]

>> If you have a particular image, perhaps you can make it available
>> online. --
>> Mike Russell
>> www.curvemeister.com/forum/

I am sure "Curvemeister" Mike has some pins that would be of help to
you..

the following is probably a cross post but I am gonna put it here
anyway.. 'cause I don't know any better.. I am old and slow!.. and use
Photoshop 7

>[QUOTE]Originally posted by AAvK

>pallet does not have a save option, at least in CS1. I cannot
>find anything on this subject anywhere online!

>Has anyone experimented with this idea? Or does anyone have
>other and possibly better ideas for sky filters?

If you are trying to emulate slr lens filters there is a freeware
program Opanda PhotoFilter at http://www.opanda.com/en/pf/download.htm
It includes more than 100 types of filters in it, there are all kinds of
color photo filter from Kodak/Cokin/Hoya. It's easy to use, You can
import your photo right into the software and apply the filters directly
and it saves as a copy of your picture leaving the original as it is. To
get the filters into Photoshop I loaded a blank transparent .psd picture
in it and selected the color filter I wanted, just click the "Apply"
button, the result will be shown with the filter on! After being
imported it into photoshop.. It is an easy matter to get your Pallet
Numbers with the point sampler... Or simply drag it onto the picture you
want to apply it to a mask or the whole picture or layer and adjusted
the opacity to about 50% (or whatever looks best). I don't know what
you are doing but maybe this will help.. and it is free!!

OR.... Let the Curvemeister color wizard guide you thorugh the basic
steps of color correction. Get it at http://www.curvemeister.com/

I am in no way associated with Mike or Curvemeister but his knowledge
has been very helpful to me in this forum
--
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy