Tim wrote:
> I've been looking into long night time exposures and it looks as if my only
> option with this camera is to get a ML-L3 remote control
>
> I assume you press it once to open and once to close the shutter when it's
> on the bulb setting in manual mode
>
> Can anyone tell me if this is right or are there better/different ways of
> doing this
>
Hello, take a look at
http://groups.google.be/group/rec.ph...1da49ebc2059cc
(sorry if the link is too long). Actually I'll cut and paste from what
I wrote there:
You could get a remote release for your camera (I don't know if cable,
wireless or both are available for your camera, look around). Two other
options:
a) Say you want a photo at ISO 100, 4min, f/5.6; take 8 photos at ISO
100, f/5.6, 30sec and add them (eg in photoshop you can layer them and
use Screen blending, which is close enough, or there are programs to
add them). The problem with this is that read noise may be amplified
(if it's patterned)
b) Take many photos (as above) but average them (eg take 4 photos,
layer them, and give the topmost layer 25% opacity, the next 33%, the
next 50% and the last 100%). The resulting image will still be
underexposed, but much cleaner (less noise), so you can easily boost
the shadows. The same problem as above with read noise, but you can use
higher ISOs here to alleviate this (because random noise gets averaged
out when adding, and read noise is smaller relative to the signal).
I use the second technique a lot with my D200 (using the built-in
intervalometer, but it's not necessary).