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Sony F828 Opinions?

 
 
Paul Williams
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      11-09-2004
Hi All,

I'm thinking of getting a new camera; currently own
a Nikon Coolpix 775, which of course is a bit limited.

I was thinking of the Sony F828, but heard some bad things
about it. But on the other hand all the reviews at www.dpreview.com
seem to be very positive.

My other choice would be the Fujifilm Finepix s7000 which is
about 200 cheaper.

So 2 questions:

1. What are you honest opionions/experiences with the Sony F828?
2. Given the choice of the Fuji or the Sony, which would you pick
if budget was not a problem?

Best regards,
Paul

 
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TAFKAB
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      11-09-2004
I've been using one for a few months, and I really like it. Yes, it has
issues with PF when you shoot it at the widest angles and wide open, with
areas of extreme contrast. However, it's easily fixed in PS for the very few
times you'll see it. For me, the camera's positives far outweigh the
negatives. And, when you compare it to the other 8MP ZLRs, it looks even
better. The AF is much better, the manual zoom is an absolute delight, the
zoom range is excellent, the controls are logical, but there's a lot of them
so there's a small learning curve. Also, the build quality is outstanding.
Once I took a good long look, it was obvious that the only real issue
associated with the camera, PF, was very easily fixable, but the problems
associated with the other 8MP ZLRs, such as poor AF performance, horrid zoom
controls, etc weren't fixable at all. I tried the Olympus 8080 and the Canon
Pro 1, and found that the response times for AF and zooming were absolutely
horrible, and actually hated both of them. They seemed fine if your subject
was stationary, but completely incapable of anything moving. Of course, if
you shoot action, get a DSLR since even the Sony isn't really suitable for
fast-moving action.

Anyway, it's up to you to decide what's important to you, and go from there.
Sorry I can't comment on the Fuji; I've never even held one.

"Paul Williams" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:cmqn47$hj5$(E-Mail Removed)...
> Hi All,
>
> I'm thinking of getting a new camera; currently own
> a Nikon Coolpix 775, which of course is a bit limited.
>
> I was thinking of the Sony F828, but heard some bad things
> about it. But on the other hand all the reviews at www.dpreview.com
> seem to be very positive.
>
> My other choice would be the Fujifilm Finepix s7000 which is
> about 200 cheaper.
>
> So 2 questions:
>
> 1. What are you honest opionions/experiences with the Sony F828?
> 2. Given the choice of the Fuji or the Sony, which would you pick
> if budget was not a problem?
>
> Best regards,
> Paul
>



 
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bmoag
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      11-09-2004
I have this camera. It is a beast.
That means it is big and heavy but also very powerful, reliable and well
built. But far from perfect and may bite you occasionally.
I have taken it to places where one should think twice about taking
electronic devices without problems.
The learning curve for total control is significant.
The 828 works very well in totally auto program mode if you want the
ultimate snapshot camera.
The lens is excellent. It seems razor sharp because of the awesome detail
the sensor can capture.
Purple fringing has been a non-issue for me and I have yet to see a digital
sensor without some artifact: it is easy to find examples of horrible moire
using dSLRs on the web but nobody seems to dis those cameras.
It is not the fastest camera to use although there is a limited burst mode.
It is difficult to use with external flash except for dedicated Sony units
in program mode.
The EVF takes getting used to, can be difficult to use in bright light
(especially when trying to track a moving object), and can be difficult to
use for critical manual focus, worse even than the focusing screens in most
autofocus SLRs. These are generic issues for EVF cameras and can be a real
pain. To me the EVF is the biggest issue with this camera but that is the
nature of the beast.
Because of diffraction effects the minimum aperture is f8: for critical
outdoor work you need to have a polarizer or neutral density filter if you
want to use slower shutter speeds at lower effective ISOs for best image
quality. Again, this is the nature of the beast and is not an issue unless
you understand why it is an issue.
The Sony RAW mode, which under some conditions can marginally increase the
already good color accuracy of the 828, can now be directly manipulated in
Photoshop CS with a new Adobe plug-in. However it takes a very long time to
write raw images to memory in this camera and the files are quite large.
RAW mode is impractical except for special uses so if you don't know why you
may need it you don't need it.
Although they cannot write to each other it is very convenient to be able to
use both CF and memory stick in the camera: double the storage capacity.
If you do not want an SLR but want the most digital camera available I would
not hesitate to get an 828. For my uses the 828 is so good I do not mind
waiting until Nikon coughs out a successor to the D70.





 
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Larry
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      11-09-2004
In article <cmqn47$hj5$(E-Mail Removed)>,
http://www.velocityreviews.com/forums/(E-Mail Removed) says...
> Hi All,
>
> I'm thinking of getting a new camera; currently own
> a Nikon Coolpix 775, which of course is a bit limited.
>
> I was thinking of the Sony F828, but heard some bad things
> about it. But on the other hand all the reviews at www.dpreview.com
> seem to be very positive.
>
> My other choice would be the Fujifilm Finepix s7000 which is
> about 200 cheaper.
>
> So 2 questions:
>
> 1. What are you honest opionions/experiences with the Sony F828?
> 2. Given the choice of the Fuji or the Sony, which would you pick
> if budget was not a problem?
>
> Best regards,
> Paul
>
>


I feel qualified to answer here as I own BOTH the Fuji
S7000 And the Sony 828.

FUJI

Item 1. BAD thing...The Fuji STARTS at ISO 200 and goes UP
from there. I dont like NOT having ISO 100

Item 2. GOOD thing...The Fuji is faster saving RAW files (1
or 2 sec)

Item 3. BAD thing... To get the BEST picture from the Fuji
you need to shoot at its highest resolution (12mp
interpolated) and then reduce the size yourself. If you
shoot at the native 6mp resolution it STILL shoots an
interpolated 12mp image then reduces it "in camera". End
result is a picture not quite as crisp as it is if you do
the size reduction yourself.

Item 4. GOOD thing... The Sony Starts at ISO 84 and goes up
from there

Item 5. BAD thing... The Sony is VERY noisy at more than
ISO 100

Item 5. BAD thing... The Sony takes 30 seconds or longer to
save a RAW file, meanwhile the camera is locked up until
the file is saved.

All in all I think the Sony is a better camera, but I
REALLY HATE the long wait between frames when in RAW mode.

I tend to use the Fuji at ISO 200 for "Action" shots in RAW
mode, and use the SONY for "POSED" images where the scene
wont change much in 30 seconds.

When FORCED to use the Sony for action pictures, it does a
good job, and the "constant Auto Focus" works very well and
very fast. (this feature also works well on the Fuji)




--
Larry Lynch
Mystic, Ct.
 
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Aerticus
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      11-09-2004
Now I know why I have returned to this NG

Thanks guys - these are fantastic insights

Aerticus


 
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JPS@no.komm
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      11-09-2004
In message <(E-Mail Removed) m>,
Larry <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>Item 1. BAD thing...The Fuji STARTS at ISO 200 and goes UP
>from there. I dont like NOT having ISO 100


These numbers are pretty arbitrary, in my experience. You point two
different camera models at the same blank wall, with the same ISO
setting, and one will use an aperture and shutter combination that is a
stop different than the other. Your 200 may be equal to 100 on another
camera.

Even if this is not so, the one with a min of 200 may have more dynamic
range, allowing you to achieve ISO 100 with exposure compensation.
Unlike pushing ISOs, pulling ISOs with digital cameras is not only *as*
good, but is usualy better than if the camera really had that ISO,
because more bitdepth is used to sample the subject. Just beware of
clipping, as you lose a stop of headroom.


--

<>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
John P Sheehy <(E-Mail Removed)>
><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><

 
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Paul Williams
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Posts: n/a
 
      11-10-2004
Hi Everyone,

I'm with Aerticus on this, thanks for everyones' very helpful views!

You have all suade me in the direction of the 828.

Now I just have to persuade my bank balance that I can get it!

Best regards,
Paul


(E-Mail Removed) wrote:
> In message <(E-Mail Removed) m>,
> Larry <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>
>>Item 1. BAD thing...The Fuji STARTS at ISO 200 and goes UP

>
>>from there. I dont like NOT having ISO 100

>
> These numbers are pretty arbitrary, in my experience. You point two
> different camera models at the same blank wall, with the same ISO
> setting, and one will use an aperture and shutter combination that is a
> stop different than the other. Your 200 may be equal to 100 on another
> camera.
>
> Even if this is not so, the one with a min of 200 may have more dynamic
> range, allowing you to achieve ISO 100 with exposure compensation.
> Unlike pushing ISOs, pulling ISOs with digital cameras is not only *as*
> good, but is usualy better than if the camera really had that ISO,
> because more bitdepth is used to sample the subject. Just beware of
> clipping, as you lose a stop of headroom.
>
>


 
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David J Taylor
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Posts: n/a
 
      11-10-2004
Paul Williams wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I'm with Aerticus on this, thanks for everyones' very helpful views!
>
> You have all suade me in the direction of the 828.
>
> Now I just have to persuade my bank balance that I can get it!
>
> Best regards,
> Paul


If you want it for the long zoom there are better choices, or if you want
it for the 8MP.

Cheers,
David


 
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Larry
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Posts: n/a
 
      11-10-2004
In article <(E-Mail Removed)>,
(E-Mail Removed) says...
> These numbers are pretty arbitrary, in my experience. You point two
> different camera models at the same blank wall, with the same ISO
> setting, and one will use an aperture and shutter combination that is a
> stop different than the other. Your 200 may be equal to 100 on another
> camera.
>
> Even if this is not so, the one with a min of 200 may have more dynamic
> range, allowing you to achieve ISO 100 with exposure compensation.
> Unlike pushing ISOs, pulling ISOs with digital cameras is not only *as*
> good, but is usualy better than if the camera really had that ISO,
> because more bitdepth is used to sample the subject. Just beware of
> clipping, as you lose a stop of headroom.
>
>


Perhaps the way I should put it is>>>>

I HATE not being able to SET the camera at ISO 100 and
shoot AS IF it was ISO 100.

Since I sometimes have as little as 2 seconds to get a shot
I've been waiting for (not knowing WHERE in my viscinity it
going to happen) I'de rather Not have to set compensation,
but rather set a "film speed equivalent" as it were.

Notice I Still own the Fuji (and use it a lot) you can tell
it wasn't a "Killing" need, just a wish.

I only list it under BAD thing in case the OP didn't know
of the limitation.


--
Larry Lynch
Mystic, Ct.
 
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TAFKAB
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      11-10-2004

"Paul Williams" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:cmsmv0$f9g$(E-Mail Removed)...
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I'm with Aerticus on this, thanks for everyones' very helpful views!
>
> You have all suade me in the direction of the 828.
>
> Now I just have to persuade my bank balance that I can get it!


I saw it for under $700 at Circuit City a little while ago. Not sure if it's
still on sale. Also, check E-Bay for "dealer dumps."

>
> Best regards,
> Paul
>
>
> (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>> In message <(E-Mail Removed) m>,
>> Larry <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Item 1. BAD thing...The Fuji STARTS at ISO 200 and goes UP

>>
>>>from there. I dont like NOT having ISO 100

>>
>> These numbers are pretty arbitrary, in my experience. You point two
>> different camera models at the same blank wall, with the same ISO
>> setting, and one will use an aperture and shutter combination that is a
>> stop different than the other. Your 200 may be equal to 100 on another
>> camera.
>>
>> Even if this is not so, the one with a min of 200 may have more dynamic
>> range, allowing you to achieve ISO 100 with exposure compensation.
>> Unlike pushing ISOs, pulling ISOs with digital cameras is not only *as*
>> good, but is usualy better than if the camera really had that ISO,
>> because more bitdepth is used to sample the subject. Just beware of
>> clipping, as you lose a stop of headroom.
>>
>>

>



 
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