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"Isildur" <> wrote in news:bui7c0$8fm$1
@sparta.btinternet.com:

> psu: bought a 400w power supply unit to replace the probably fine 300w
>

Replacing a crappy 300w unit with a crappy 400w unit will do no good. Did
you replace it with a high quality 400w supply, or another $25 PS?

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"DeMoN LaG" <n@a> wrote in message
news:Xns9476994B27FC3Wobbly@216.168.3.30...
> "Isildur" <> wrote in
news:bui7c0$8fm$1
> @sparta.btinternet.com:
>
> > psu: bought a 400w power supply unit to replace the probably fine 300w
> >
>
> Replacing a crappy 300w unit with a crappy 400w unit will do no good. Did
> you replace it with a high quality 400w supply, or another $25 PS?

It wasn't an expensive one no, so you are saying the original 300watt went
crappy and the new one was too cheap? i didn't want to spent loads on it
incase it didn't help, i'm sure you can understand looking at all the other
stuff i'd replaced!
But i did think i'd crack it with another PSU, maybe i'll try a more
expensive one, any brand names?

Isildur wrote:
> "DeMoN LaG" <n@a> wrote in message
> news:Xns9476994B27FC3Wobbly@216.168.3.30...
>> "Isildur" <> wrote in
>> news:bui7c0$8fm$1 @sparta.btinternet.com:
>>
>>> psu: bought a 400w power supply unit to replace the probably fine
>>> 300w
>>>
>>
>> Replacing a crappy 300w unit with a crappy 400w unit will do no
>> good. Did you replace it with a high quality 400w supply, or
>> another $25 PS?
>
> It wasn't an expensive one no, so you are saying the original 300watt
> went crappy and the new one was too cheap? i didn't want to spent
> loads on it incase it didn't help, i'm sure you can understand
> looking at all the other stuff i'd replaced!
> But i did think i'd crack it with another PSU, maybe i'll try a more
> expensive one, any brand names?

Enermax or Antec are good

--
Night_Seer

"Night_Seer" <ecamacho4 at hotmail dot com> wrote in message
news:SZWdnUVGX7IbSZDdRVn-...
> Isildur wrote:
> > "DeMoN LaG" <n@a> wrote in message
> > news:Xns9476994B27FC3Wobbly@216.168.3.30...
> >> "Isildur" <> wrote in
> >> news:bui7c0$8fm$1 @sparta.btinternet.com:
> >>
> >>> psu: bought a 400w power supply unit to replace the probably fine
> >>> 300w
> >>>
> >>
> >> Replacing a crappy 300w unit with a crappy 400w unit will do no
> >> good. Did you replace it with a high quality 400w supply, or
> >> another $25 PS?
> >
> > It wasn't an expensive one no, so you are saying the original 300watt
> > went crappy and the new one was too cheap? i didn't want to spent
> > loads on it incase it didn't help, i'm sure you can understand
> > looking at all the other stuff i'd replaced!
> > But i did think i'd crack it with another PSU, maybe i'll try a more
> > expensive one, any brand names?
>
> Enermax or Antec are good

And PC Power & Cooling (but those are expensive)

another thing you may want to check is the ram. I noticed you haven't
replaced that. If the ram is dodgie it is possible to make your mother board
do strange things. If you have some spare sticks try swapping them out or
trading them with some from your other pc personally I have never
experienced the exact same problem with two different power supplies in the
same system but I mean hey there is always a first time

No, the drive screws don't penetrate but if they are too long they can
bottom out in the hole and torqueing the screws just slightly more will
cause a slight deformation of the metal. This isn't a guess...I am a test
engineer and have been guilty of this one myself once. (It only takes once
to be memorable.) Quick test for this is just open up your case and back
off a turn or so on the mounting screws and give it a try...usually the
deformation is elastic (and not plastic) so it'll return to normal
operation...if that fixes it, don't put your case back together with loose
screws...either get shorter ones or cut down the ones you have.

"Thor" <> wrote in message
news:400d7bd8$0$93682$...
>
> "George" <> wrote in message
> news:...
> > I assume the power supply is being lumped in with the case??? Sounds
like
> > it could be a noisy power supply...ripple tends to destroy boards and
> spikes
> > (not too high) tend to cause erratic behavior as they frequently couple
to
> > signal/control lines. Good brands for power supplies include: PC Power
&
> > Cooling (the best, but you pay for it), Antec, and Enermax. Sparkle is
> OK,
> > too.
> >
> > Oh, something else that might be the cause of your clicking (and drive
> > destruction): mounting screws that are too long or too
tight...sometimes
> > they can inhibit servo motor movement and that can mean clicking when
they
> > hit the screws and heat when it has its movement stopped and heat means
> > ultimately failure.
>
> No mounting screw can penetrate the drive's platter compartment, so the
> servo arm cannot possibly come into contact with it. The drive housings
> simply aren't designed that way.
>
>

You have good taste in power supplies.

"Thor" <> wrote in message
news:400e7d1b$0$48142$...
>
>
> And PC Power & Cooling (but those are expensive)
>
>

"George" <> wrote in message
news:...
> No, the drive screws don't penetrate but if they are too long they can
> bottom out in the hole and torqueing the screws just slightly more will
> cause a slight deformation of the metal. This isn't a guess...I am a test
> engineer and have been guilty of this one myself once. (It only takes
once
> to be memorable.) Quick test for this is just open up your case and back
> off a turn or so on the mounting screws and give it a try...usually the
> deformation is elastic (and not plastic) so it'll return to normal
> operation...if that fixes it, don't put your case back together with loose
> screws...either get shorter ones or cut down the ones you have.

Of all the drives I've seen, they have had their mounting holes tapped into
the thick cast-aluminum frame of the drive and the screws would either
bottom out against a substantial wall of cast aluminum (in which case you
would plainly strip the threads long before penetrating or even deforming
this backstop), or the holes are drilled and tapped straight through, *not
to the platter compartment*, but well *below* the platter compartment, and
adjacent to the logic board, in which case screws that were too long could
contact logic board components and circuitry causing a problem, but never
the head actuator assembly itself, as that resides well out of reach, and
position.

Thank you. I use a Turbo-Cool 350 in my own machine.


"George" <> wrote in message
news:...
> You have good taste in power supplies.
>
> "Thor" <> wrote in message
> news:400e7d1b$0$48142$...
> >
> >
> > And PC Power & Cooling (but those are expensive)
> >
> >
>
>

I think it is money well spent. It amazes me that people will spend $450 on
their video card alone and then want to use a $29 power supply. When these
cheap supplies die, or even sometimes when they live, they seem to want to
take everything else along with them.

I think my next "investment" will actually be a whole house surge suppressor
as recent electrical events seem to have taken out one of the bits in a
counter in, of all things, my microwave oven making the clock and timer run
about 10% fast and the "part" (a whole new faceplate as the appliance
industry likes to do) is about $200. A whole house surge suppressor is only
about $90-120 and seems like it could have already paid for itself.

"Thor" <> wrote in message
news:400ece42$0$98829$...
> Thank you. I use a Turbo-Cool 350 in my own machine.
>
>
> "George" <> wrote in message
> news:...
> > You have good taste in power supplies.
> >
> > "Thor" <> wrote in message
> > news:400e7d1b$0$48142$...
> > >
> > >
> > > And PC Power & Cooling (but those are expensive)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>