DVD Cabling Hookup Quest. ?

Hello:

Not too sharp with this stuff.

Just got a new Panasonic DVD player (my very first) and hooked it up to my
Panasonic
TV. Works fine, no problems.

But, I see there are actually two suggested methods for
the hookup one can use. They aren't too clear about things in their manual.

Funny, they spend a zillion bucks on their R&D, but can't hire someone who
actually
knows how to write a good, useful, easy to use manual.

Anyway: the way I have it hooked up now is with two lines for the audio,
and all the video signal
on the one other line. This uses the cable they provided. Pretty good pix.

The other way is apparently with 2 lines for the audio, as before, but 3
separate lines for the video.
This would require my going to R/S for another cable, I guess.

Is this method "significantly" better than the first, in providing a
superior
picture quality ? Worth doing ? Caveats ?

BTW: Can one take the output from a DVD and record it on a VCR ?
Legal (in any cases ?) ?

Thanks,
Bob

Robert11

Robert11 wrote:
> Anyway: the way I have it hooked up now is with two lines for the audio,
> and all the video signal
> on the one other line. This uses the cable they provided. Pretty good pix.
>

This would be composite video, the second-worst picture you can get out
of your DVD player. The absolute worst would be to run your composite
signal through a demodulator for display on a tv that only has a
screw-in coax input, but all modern tvs have at least a composite input.

> The other way is apparently with 2 lines for the audio, as before, but 3
> separate lines for the video.
> This would require my going to R/S for another cable, I guess.
>
> Is this method "significantly" better than the first, in providing a
> superior
> picture quality ? Worth doing ? Caveats ?
>

You're talking about component video, and it is absolutely worth doing,
DVD is the first consumer format to allow us to use component video and
it's awesomely clear and detailed, you would have to get an HDTV to have
a better picture. HOWEVER, you need a tv that has component inputs.
Does your tv have red, green, and blue inputs on the back? (Are you in
the US, Canada, or somewhere else?) You'll also need to buy new
component cables (don't let the salespeople push the expensive Monster
brand or any kind of gold-plated cables on you, YOU DO NOT NEED THESE),
but cheap component cables from Wal-Mart. As long as they seem thick
and sturdy, they should be fine, no matter the price. And you won't
need new audio cables, you can still use the ones you're already using.

A few notches in quality below component is S-Video, which uses a
connector that looks like the one your mouse and keyboard on your
computer use. My tv only has one component input, so I use that for my
DVD player and my S-Video input for my game systems. I can definitely
tell the difference between the two, others say there is only a little
difference. In any case they are both head and shoulders above
composite. If your tv does not have a component input then get an
S-Video one. You can still use the two audio cables you were using
before, just don't connect the yellow composite jacks. S-Video just
carries the video signal, like component.

Aaaaand, using the highest quality connection won't do you a heck of a
lot of good if your tv isn't properly calibrated. Ya see, your tv comes
out of the box with the contrast, brightness, color, etc. all way out of
proportion. It not only gives you an inferior picture but it also
decrease the lifespan of your tv. Buy a good calibration disc (not the
THX Optimizer), like Digital Video Essentials (the latest in a series
which goes back to A Video Standard, the first calibration LD in 1989),
which I bought for 17 bucks at www.deepdiscountdvd.com, and I wouldn't
be without it. It even comes with a three-colored gel insert for proper
color calibration. The only downside is the menu interface leaves
something to be desired if you're trying to access specific test
patterns, but for the most part it talks you through everything,
explaining what each setting is and how to correct it. Once you
calibrate your tv properly it may seem a little dark to you at first (do
all your tv viewing in the dimmest light possible, but not total
darkness, as this is how your tv was meant to be viewed).

You'll calibrate at least once a year, as these settings will slowly
drift. One day when you upgrade to a big ol' HDTV, you should consider
having a pro calibrate it, as they can access settings we consumers
can't, with special codes.

Even if your tv just has composite inputs, you should still get a
calibration disc like DVE, it will still help you get the best possible
picture.

> BTW: Can one take the output from a DVD and record it on a VCR ?
> Legal (in any cases ?) ?

No, everybody who buys a DVD player attempting to record DVDs to VHS
always winds up dissapointed. And it isn't legal, either.

I know I said a lot here, and I hope you read it all and took it
seriously. Audio and video are just much more complex then the old days
when you connected an antenna and that was it. Aren't you glad I didn't
mention upgrading to a 5.1 audio system?

--
"Hey, I bet people will buy my ugly shirts if I put my name on them."
--Tommy Hilfiger

Grand Inquisitor
http://www.dvdprofiler.com/mycollection.asp?alias=Oost

Grand Inquisitor

Robert11 wrote:

> Is this method "significantly" better than the first, in providing a
> superior
> picture quality ? Worth doing ? Caveats ?

Most likely component video, and yes if you tv has
component ins the quality will blow away anything
you're used to and even more so when you kick on
progressive scan.


drc

Darrel Christenson