«

Hi all,

I lurked here briefly around Christmas before buying a camera to see
what everyone was talking about, helping me make a decision on what to
buy. So other than that, I'm new here.

Anyway, I decided on the the Canon Digital rebel, & picked up an
overpriced Canon 75-300mm zoom lens to go with the 18-55 that came
with the kit (I found out later that I paid $120 more than the average
internet price for the 75-300mm lens, & I'm still mad about it, but
the store I bought it from says tough luck!). I'm comming from a
Nikon coolpix 995 & almost bought the finepix s7000, but decided that
would be an intermediate step that I didn't need to waste money on. My
photography experience pretty much boils down to taking close up
pictures of coins witha tripod & perfect lighting.

So my next subjects with my new camera are nightime city settings.
Bustling streets lighted with signs & billboards, interesting shots
inside stores & coffee shops, zipping in on tall buildings, all using
my new 75-300mm lens. As you might be ready to guess, out of the 700
or so evening/night pictures I've taken, I don't have one shot to show
for where I didn't shake & blure the picture.

This is where I need help. I'm learning & understanding about the
light/aperature thing along with shutter speed & film speed, & I know
a tripod will help (however unpractical this is walking around a city
at night), and I've also been told to get the Image Stabilizing
version of my lens (back to lousy return policy with camera store
above), but there has to be something in the technique area I can do
to improve my aim with practice. I mean come on.. I've seen these guys
at football games with 2 1/2 foot lenses snapping pictures with no
tripod, & they must get SOME good pictures.

I've been practicing alot. I'll setup a pop can, or something with
small writing about 8 ft away, & zoom in on the writing, & snap away
for hours. In a mediocre light, I'll get 1 out of about 100 pictures
that I find almost exceptable as a steady shot. Maybe I expect too
much? But to me, if I can see the lettering fuzz off in one direction
or another even the slightest bit when zooming in on the picture, than
it wasn't a steady shot.

I know this group has to be loaded with good photographers that can
send me down the road to enlightenment, so please send some tips &
tricks, links to favorite web sites & tutorials my way. If I'm going
to practice, I want to make sure I'm doing it right, & I will greatly
appreciate the help!

Also, my coin pictures aren't up to the quality I had with my coolpix
995. I thought the 18-55 lense would do the job, & its close, but
still leaves things a bit burry. Any tips for close up macro work?
lens recommendations (that I might be able to afford)?

Thanks for any replies in advance!

-Sam

For the night shots, are you using the highest ISO setting? Your Rebel can
shoot at ISO equivalent 1600. That would allow the fastest shutter speeds to
help reduce motion blur.

As for your coin shots, I don't know how close the kit lens (18-55) can
focus in macro mode, since I don't own one, but I would definitely redommend
a tripod, since lenses at macro settings have a fairly shallow depth of
focus, so it's critical that the camera doesn't move once the focus is set.

FYI, the S7000 can focus down to 1cm (or 0.4 inches) in super-macro mode.

Bill

"~~Just me~~" <> wrote in message
news:...
>
> Hi all,
>
> I lurked here briefly around Christmas before buying a camera to see
> what everyone was talking about, helping me make a decision on what to
> buy. So other than that, I'm new here.
>
> Anyway, I decided on the the Canon Digital rebel, & picked up an
> overpriced Canon 75-300mm zoom lens to go with the 18-55 that came
> with the kit (I found out later that I paid $120 more than the average
> internet price for the 75-300mm lens, & I'm still mad about it, but
> the store I bought it from says tough luck!). I'm comming from a
> Nikon coolpix 995 & almost bought the finepix s7000, but decided that
> would be an intermediate step that I didn't need to waste money on. My
> photography experience pretty much boils down to taking close up
> pictures of coins witha tripod & perfect lighting.
>
> So my next subjects with my new camera are nightime city settings.
> Bustling streets lighted with signs & billboards, interesting shots
> inside stores & coffee shops, zipping in on tall buildings, all using
> my new 75-300mm lens. As you might be ready to guess, out of the 700
> or so evening/night pictures I've taken, I don't have one shot to show
> for where I didn't shake & blure the picture.
>
> This is where I need help. I'm learning & understanding about the
> light/aperature thing along with shutter speed & film speed, & I know
> a tripod will help (however unpractical this is walking around a city
> at night), and I've also been told to get the Image Stabilizing
> version of my lens (back to lousy return policy with camera store
> above), but there has to be something in the technique area I can do
> to improve my aim with practice. I mean come on.. I've seen these guys
> at football games with 2 1/2 foot lenses snapping pictures with no
> tripod, & they must get SOME good pictures.
>
> I've been practicing alot. I'll setup a pop can, or something with
> small writing about 8 ft away, & zoom in on the writing, & snap away
> for hours. In a mediocre light, I'll get 1 out of about 100 pictures
> that I find almost exceptable as a steady shot. Maybe I expect too
> much? But to me, if I can see the lettering fuzz off in one direction
> or another even the slightest bit when zooming in on the picture, than
> it wasn't a steady shot.
>
> I know this group has to be loaded with good photographers that can
> send me down the road to enlightenment, so please send some tips &
> tricks, links to favorite web sites & tutorials my way. If I'm going
> to practice, I want to make sure I'm doing it right, & I will greatly
> appreciate the help!
>
> Also, my coin pictures aren't up to the quality I had with my coolpix
> 995. I thought the 18-55 lense would do the job, & its close, but
> still leaves things a bit burry. Any tips for close up macro work?
> lens recommendations (that I might be able to afford)?
>
> Thanks for any replies in advance!
>
> -Sam
>

Without IS you are limited to the old rule of thumb - to shoot handheld your
shutter speed must be higher than the focal length - ie at 300 mm on your
300d your minimum shutter speed must be 1/500 or higher. (300*1.6=480mm). IS
gives you 3 stops - so minimum speed would be 1/60 sec. Needless to say all
thos ehuge white lenses that you see at the footy are IS.

You may howver gain a little more stabilty by using a monopod, this might
allow a stop if your careful. Iso 1600 would allow faster shots, but with
higher noise.....Otherwise its back to the tripod!

"~~Just me~~" <> wrote in message
news:...
>
> Hi all,
>
> I lurked here briefly around Christmas before buying a camera to see
> what everyone was talking about, helping me make a decision on what to
> buy. So other than that, I'm new here.
>
> Anyway, I decided on the the Canon Digital rebel, & picked up an
> overpriced Canon 75-300mm zoom lens to go with the 18-55 that came
> with the kit (I found out later that I paid $120 more than the average
> internet price for the 75-300mm lens, & I'm still mad about it, but
> the store I bought it from says tough luck!). I'm comming from a
> Nikon coolpix 995 & almost bought the finepix s7000, but decided that
> would be an intermediate step that I didn't need to waste money on. My
> photography experience pretty much boils down to taking close up
> pictures of coins witha tripod & perfect lighting.
>
> So my next subjects with my new camera are nightime city settings.
> Bustling streets lighted with signs & billboards, interesting shots
> inside stores & coffee shops, zipping in on tall buildings, all using
> my new 75-300mm lens. As you might be ready to guess, out of the 700
> or so evening/night pictures I've taken, I don't have one shot to show
> for where I didn't shake & blure the picture.
>
> This is where I need help. I'm learning & understanding about the
> light/aperature thing along with shutter speed & film speed, & I know
> a tripod will help (however unpractical this is walking around a city
> at night), and I've also been told to get the Image Stabilizing
> version of my lens (back to lousy return policy with camera store
> above), but there has to be something in the technique area I can do
> to improve my aim with practice. I mean come on.. I've seen these guys
> at football games with 2 1/2 foot lenses snapping pictures with no
> tripod, & they must get SOME good pictures.
>
> I've been practicing alot. I'll setup a pop can, or something with
> small writing about 8 ft away, & zoom in on the writing, & snap away
> for hours. In a mediocre light, I'll get 1 out of about 100 pictures
> that I find almost exceptable as a steady shot. Maybe I expect too
> much? But to me, if I can see the lettering fuzz off in one direction
> or another even the slightest bit when zooming in on the picture, than
> it wasn't a steady shot.
>
> I know this group has to be loaded with good photographers that can
> send me down the road to enlightenment, so please send some tips &
> tricks, links to favorite web sites & tutorials my way. If I'm going
> to practice, I want to make sure I'm doing it right, & I will greatly
> appreciate the help!
>
> Also, my coin pictures aren't up to the quality I had with my coolpix
> 995. I thought the 18-55 lense would do the job, & its close, but
> still leaves things a bit burry. Any tips for close up macro work?
> lens recommendations (that I might be able to afford)?
>
> Thanks for any replies in advance!
>
> -Sam
>

>"stanb" wrote:

>eedless to say all
>thos ehuge white lenses that you see at the footy are IS.

Hi,

Agree. Not only are they IS but the lenses are very fast (large appertures),
most use monopods, and the cost of the lens would set you back $1500 at least.
Rosita

The guys shooting with big lenses are using either IS (or VR with Nikon) or
using high shutter speeds i.e. 1/500 or faster - to get those shutter speeds
you often need f/2.8 lenses.

Gav


"~~Just me~~" <> wrote in message
news:...
>
> Hi all,
>
> I lurked here briefly around Christmas before buying a camera to see
> what everyone was talking about, helping me make a decision on what to
> buy. So other than that, I'm new here.
>
> Anyway, I decided on the the Canon Digital rebel, & picked up an
> overpriced Canon 75-300mm zoom lens to go with the 18-55 that came
> with the kit (I found out later that I paid $120 more than the average
> internet price for the 75-300mm lens, & I'm still mad about it, but
> the store I bought it from says tough luck!). I'm comming from a
> Nikon coolpix 995 & almost bought the finepix s7000, but decided that
> would be an intermediate step that I didn't need to waste money on. My
> photography experience pretty much boils down to taking close up
> pictures of coins witha tripod & perfect lighting.
>
> So my next subjects with my new camera are nightime city settings.
> Bustling streets lighted with signs & billboards, interesting shots
> inside stores & coffee shops, zipping in on tall buildings, all using
> my new 75-300mm lens. As you might be ready to guess, out of the 700
> or so evening/night pictures I've taken, I don't have one shot to show
> for where I didn't shake & blure the picture.
>
> This is where I need help. I'm learning & understanding about the
> light/aperature thing along with shutter speed & film speed, & I know
> a tripod will help (however unpractical this is walking around a city
> at night), and I've also been told to get the Image Stabilizing
> version of my lens (back to lousy return policy with camera store
> above), but there has to be something in the technique area I can do
> to improve my aim with practice. I mean come on.. I've seen these guys
> at football games with 2 1/2 foot lenses snapping pictures with no
> tripod, & they must get SOME good pictures.
>
> I've been practicing alot. I'll setup a pop can, or something with
> small writing about 8 ft away, & zoom in on the writing, & snap away
> for hours. In a mediocre light, I'll get 1 out of about 100 pictures
> that I find almost exceptable as a steady shot. Maybe I expect too
> much? But to me, if I can see the lettering fuzz off in one direction
> or another even the slightest bit when zooming in on the picture, than
> it wasn't a steady shot.
>
> I know this group has to be loaded with good photographers that can
> send me down the road to enlightenment, so please send some tips &
> tricks, links to favorite web sites & tutorials my way. If I'm going
> to practice, I want to make sure I'm doing it right, & I will greatly
> appreciate the help!
>
> Also, my coin pictures aren't up to the quality I had with my coolpix
> 995. I thought the 18-55 lense would do the job, & its close, but
> still leaves things a bit burry. Any tips for close up macro work?
> lens recommendations (that I might be able to afford)?
>
> Thanks for any replies in advance!
>
> -Sam
>

"stanb" <> wrote in message
news:...
> Without IS you are limited to the old rule of thumb - to shoot handheld
your
> shutter speed must be higher than the focal length - ie at 300 mm on your
> 300d your minimum shutter speed must be 1/500 or higher. (300*1.6=480mm).
IS
> gives you 3 stops - so minimum speed would be 1/60 sec. Needless to say
all
> thos ehuge white lenses that you see at the footy are IS.
>
> You may howver gain a little more stabilty by using a monopod, this might
> allow a stop if your careful. Iso 1600 would allow faster shots, but with
> higher noise.....Otherwise its back to the tripod!
>

A good practice can give you one more stop. Basically, make sure your both
feet are situated on a steady place, get down a bit on your legs to use your
knees as shock absorbers and not rigid, pre-focus the subject in manual if
you can, take a deep breath, stop breathing for about 1/2 to 1 second, take
the photo, release calmly the shutter and breath again. You may want to take
2 photos as the second will often be sharper than the first.

Good luck.

~~Just me~~ wrote:


> So my next subjects with my new camera are nightime city settings.
> Bustling streets lighted with signs & billboards, interesting shots
> inside stores & coffee shops, zipping in on tall buildings, all using
> my new 75-300mm lens. As you might be ready to guess, out of the 700
> or so evening/night pictures I've taken, I don't have one shot to show
> for where I didn't shake & blure the picture.

It sounds like your 75-300 doesn't let in enough light for what
you're trying to do. If you put it on a tripod and take several
second exposures, you'll get sharp bright pictures of buildings
and parked cars, but people and moving cars will be a problem.

You need a fast lens for shooting motion in low light. (street lights)
Fast meaning a low f number.. f/2.8 or less is good. Your lens
is f/4-5.6

You pay a *lot* for fast lenses. The best bargain out there right
now is the Canon 50mm f/1.8 It's under $100.00

Don't shoot in Auto mode.. Using the creative modes will let you
manually select the ISO. You have to bump up the ISO to 800 or 1600.
1600 should be a last resort because the noise starts to really
show.

In place of handheld when you don't have a tripod in the city, you can use
any stable thing (car hood/roof, mailbox, etc.). Set up the photo then use
the auto-timer instead of manually pushing the shutter button.

That can also help if you have to handhold--brace yourself (ex. Leaning
against a light post if necessary for stability) then after you click the
shutter button the timer gives you a few seconds before it fires to freeze
in position. Even resting your elbows on a fence or cable in a triangle is
umch more stable than no support.

With 35mm cameras you can use a shutter-button cable to eliminate shake--I
don't know if that is avalible on any digital cameras. If so there are
squeeze-bulb types you can use with your foot also. They screw into the top
of the shutter button --take a look.

Then there are various types of handles that screw into the tripod hole that
make the camera a lot easier to hold in a more natural way. These are basic
for any level of photography.

Hope it helps.

Jackals


"~~Just me~~" <> wrote in message
news:...
>
> Hi all,
>
> I lurked here briefly around Christmas before buying a camera to see
> what everyone was talking about, helping me make a decision on what to
> buy. So other than that, I'm new here.
>
>

You are not alone: here is part of a previous post:

From: "Ning" <>
Subject: Remote shutter control from PC / USB lead?
Date: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 3:26 AM

On a related note, is it possible to get a remote shutter control
cable, like you can with a conventional camera? I'm taking photos on a
tripod without much lighting, and I would like to make sure I didn't
disturb the camera when I take the photo.

cheers

ben




"~~Just me~~" <> wrote in message
news:...
>
> Hi all,
>
> I lurked here briefly around Christmas before buying a camera to see
> what everyone was talking about, helping me make a decision on what to
> buy. So other than that, I'm new here.
>
> Anyway, I decided on the the Canon Digital rebel, & picked up an
> overpriced Canon 75-300mm zoom lens to go with the 18-55 that came
> with the kit (I found out later that I paid $120 more than the average
> internet price for the 75-300mm lens, & I'm still mad about it, but
> the store I bought it from says tough luck!). I'm comming from a
> Nikon coolpix 995 & almost bought the finepix s7000, but decided that
> would be an intermediate step that I didn't need to waste money on. My
> photography experience pretty much boils down to taking close up
> pictures of coins witha tripod & perfect lighting.
>
> So my next subjects with my new camera are nightime city settings.
> Bustling streets lighted with signs & billboards, interesting shots
> inside stores & coffee shops, zipping in on tall buildings, all using
> my new 75-300mm lens. As you might be ready to guess, out of the 700
> or so evening/night pictures I've taken, I don't have one shot to show
> for where I didn't shake & blure the picture.
>
> This is where I need help. I'm learning & understanding about the
> light/aperature thing along with shutter speed & film speed, & I know
> a tripod will help (however unpractical this is walking around a city
> at night), and I've also been told to get the Image Stabilizing
> version of my lens (back to lousy return policy with camera store
> above), but there has to be something in the technique area I can do
> to improve my aim with practice. I mean come on.. I've seen these guys
> at football games with 2 1/2 foot lenses snapping pictures with no
> tripod, & they must get SOME good pictures.
>
> I've been practicing alot. I'll setup a pop can, or something with
> small writing about 8 ft away, & zoom in on the writing, & snap away
> for hours. In a mediocre light, I'll get 1 out of about 100 pictures
> that I find almost exceptable as a steady shot. Maybe I expect too
> much? But to me, if I can see the lettering fuzz off in one direction
> or another even the slightest bit when zooming in on the picture, than
> it wasn't a steady shot.
>
> I know this group has to be loaded with good photographers that can
> send me down the road to enlightenment, so please send some tips &
> tricks, links to favorite web sites & tutorials my way. If I'm going
> to practice, I want to make sure I'm doing it right, & I will greatly
> appreciate the help!
>
> Also, my coin pictures aren't up to the quality I had with my coolpix
> 995. I thought the 18-55 lense would do the job, & its close, but
> still leaves things a bit burry. Any tips for close up macro work?
> lens recommendations (that I might be able to afford)?
>
> Thanks for any replies in advance!
>
> -Sam
>

In article <YgvLb.26214$ti2.14541@lakeread03>,
"Bill" <> wrote:

> As for your coin shots, I don't know how close the kit lens (18-55) can
> focus in macro mode, since I don't own one, but I would definitely redommend
> a tripod, since lenses at macro settings have a fairly shallow depth of
> focus, so it's critical that the camera doesn't move once the focus is set.

I think that you'll find that a good scanner works better than any
camera on coin scanning - always sharp/consistent and a LOT faster
than photographing them. ... been doing it for years ... after my ten
year old grandson clued me in! Jeeeesh!

S