Hockey Rink photos - Help

> First, personally, I would use Shutter Priority rather than Aperature Priority
> because I think your shutter speed is a little more crucial than your
> aperature.

I don't disagree, but the original poster indicated dark shots. Forcing
a relatively fast shutter speed can still result in dark shots. Using
Aperture Priority and letting the camera select the shutter speed should
guarantee a properly exposed picture. Of course, it may be blurry --
maybe too blurry -- but it shouldn't exhibit the darkness indicated in
the original message.

After experimenting with Aperture Priority (AV), some experimenting can
be done with Shutter Priority (TV), which may result in dark shots. If
the AV pictures have too much motion blur and the TV shots are too dark,
the photographer can then switch to Manual mode and try to compromise
some settings, using a wide open aperture (probably wide open) and a
"not quite as fast" shutter speed. The shots will still be dark, but
can then probably be corrected with software.

> I am reading this thread with great interest myself because I have a D100 also
> and have been using it for a lot of hockey lately. I have had mixed results
> myself since one rink I shot at was relatively well lit and the one that I shot
> at a few weeks ago was horrible.

Yes, lighting varies *greatly* from rink to rink, as well as within the
same rink as you have noticed. You should definitely set your custom
white balance at each rink, but there's not much that can be done for
the variances at the same rink except making corrections using imaging
software (ie. Photoshop, Paint Shop Pro, Photo Impact, etc.). Also, be
sure to set your custom white balance when you change lenses, as there
may be differences.

While I have the luxury of not having to worry about anything
obstructing my view of the players except the linesman's rear end, I do
have the problem of my camera wanting to autofocus on the boards on the
opposite side of the rink rather than the player. I have experimented
during a couple of games with manual focus. I took home fewer shots,
but I took home more good shots. If your autofocus is consistently
focusing on the nets, you may want to consider giving manual focus a
try. Yes, it will take some time to get used to, but you may see more
good shots.

John

Johnny

Hi Johnny

I've been following your advice below. I'm mostly shooting pictures of
minor hockey, bantams and peewees at local rinks. The lens I have today is
a Nikor AF zoom 35-135mm.

Looking at your gallery shots, the thing that immediately jumps at me is the
razor sharp focus and good color of your shots. I saw in a follow up post
that you recommended a f2.8 zoom. I could swing that lens, but honestly, is
it going to make a significant difference for me, or are you shooting in
rinks with superior lighting and much better camera control than I'm likely
to achieve?

thanks in advance

Steve

"Johnny" <> wrote in message
news:...
> Not specific to the D100, but try the following (refer to your manual
> for specific instructions on how to make the changes):
>
> 1) Use custom white balance. If all else fails, use the ice or boards
> as your reference. This will fix (or reduce) the yellow color cast.
>
> 2) Use 800 ISO (experiment with 400 and 1600). You don't mention if
> you're in an amateur, "junior pro"/major college (AHL, CHL), or NHL
> rink, so your lighting could be anywhere form bad to good.
>
> 3) Either get as close to the glass as possible, or get up high enough
> to shoot over the glass. Either way, don't use a flash.
>
> 4) Set your exposure compensation to +1. You might need to go higher,
> you might need to go less. (this will reduce/eliminate the dark
> pictures)
>
> 5) Shoot from the corner of the rink to get the best shots. Get in the
> Zamboni pit if possible. Get on the good side of the team or league
> personnel and shoot from the penalty box (if it doesn't have glass --
> don't forget to duck)
>
> 6) Shoot *A LOT* of pictures. You'll get some great ones, some good
> ones, and a lot of bad ones.
>
> 7) Generally speaking, fights aren't interesting pictures (unless you
> get a fist connecting), just a bunch of guys standing around.
>
> Don't forget to shoot behind the play. A lot of good checks happen
> behind the play.
>
> Samples using the above tips can be seen at:
> http://www.ushl.com/gallery/
>
> John Elftmann
>
>
>
> > We have a new Nikon D100. Looking for suggested settings for best
> > performance in a hockey rink.
> >
> > Our first pictures are very dark and have a yellow cast.

Steve Edwards

> I've been following your advice below. I'm mostly shooting pictures of
> minor hockey, bantams and peewees at local rinks. The lens I have today is
> a Nikor AF zoom 35-135mm.
>
> Looking at your gallery shots, the thing that immediately jumps at me is the
> razor sharp focus and good color of your shots. I saw in a follow up post
> that you recommended a f2.8 zoom. I could swing that lens, but honestly, is
> it going to make a significant difference for me, or are you shooting in
> rinks with superior lighting and much better camera control than I'm likely
> to achieve?
>

There is no doubt that the rink where I do most of my shooting (and
where all of those gallery shots came from) has relatively good lighting
(when compared to peewee rinks). The two links below are from a rink
with relatively poor lighting compared to my usual haunt.

This first link was about the third time I had used my 10D and I was
experimenting with a wide variety of exposure settings (ISO, shutter
speed, aperture, etc.). (original format: large, fine JPG)

http://www.elftmann.com/ushlgallery/20031010slln/


The second link, below, is from just this past weekend. These turned
out a little better (though the highlights are blown in some, I'm
learning some new software and monitor calibration). These were shot at
f2.8 and altering between ISO 800 & 1600. It's just a random subset of
images from that game thought. (original format: RAW, some large, fine
JPGs)

http://65.110.64.217/20040110wlln/

(this is a quick & dirty gallery from an existing template, please
excuse the copyright banner).

Perhaps you have a local camera store that would rent you a 2.8 so you
could try it out? Or exercise your return option if it doesn't work to
your satisfaction.

One final note -- I've been shooting 250 frames/game in the "good light
rink" and keeping a little over half. Lately I've been experimenting
with manual focus. I'm shooting fewer frames but keeping a higher
percentage.

John

Johnny