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Studio lights for newbie

 
 
JJ
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      12-20-2003
Getting back into photography with digital. What would be a good start for
studio lights? Photoflood, strobe? Have done mostly outside, and fill
lighting til now... but living on the foggy coastline of California leaves
outside photography a chancy thing if you are depending on the sun filtering
through the trees for that great hair highlight!

Thanks for any info... JJ


 
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Bob Hatch
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      12-20-2003

"JJ" <Cookie http://www.velocityreviews.com/forums/(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:vd0Fb.499149$(E-Mail Removed)...
> Getting back into photography with digital. What would be a good start

for
> studio lights? Photoflood, strobe? Have done mostly outside, and fill
> lighting til now... but living on the foggy coastline of California leaves
> outside photography a chancy thing if you are depending on the sun

filtering
> through the trees for that great hair highlight!
>
> Thanks for any info... JJ
>

Part of the answer depends on what camera you're getting. At the very least
you should make sure that your camera will do custom/manual white balance.
With this feature you can use photo flood, regular flood or spot lights,
halogen work lights, etc and get excellent looking portraits. For studio
strobes, I prefer White Lightning and have 5 set up for my uses. A main,
background, fill, hair and second background or auxiliary.

What camera?

--
"Secular nations have one thing in common -- mass graves, and
the reason is that they believe the government is the final arbiter
of right and wrong and good and evil." --Rob Schenk
http://www.bobhatch.com


 
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Jim Waggener
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      12-20-2003

"JJ" <Cookie (E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:vd0Fb.499149$(E-Mail Removed)...
> Getting back into photography with digital. What would be a good start

for
> studio lights? Photoflood, strobe? Have done mostly outside, and fill
> lighting til now... but living on the foggy coastline of California leaves
> outside photography a chancy thing if you are depending on the sun

filtering
> through the trees for that great hair highlight!
>
> Thanks for any info... JJ
>


Photofloods are going to be much cheaper than strobes. But they do get hot.
I have two Lowel Omni-Lights with barn doors and umbrella's and a Toto-Light
that I use for digital, 35mm and 4x5 work. Cost was about $750 from B&H.
Works great.

Jim Waggener




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Charlie Self
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      12-20-2003
Jim Waggener responds:

>Photofloods are going to be much cheaper than strobes. But they do get hot.
>I have two Lowel Omni-Lights with barn doors and umbrella's and a Toto-Light
>that I use for digital, 35mm and 4x5 work. Cost was about $750 from B&H.
>Works great.


He might also try Alien Bees. The small units are around $225. Add stands,
umbrella and a medium softbox for 2, and you're in that same range, with flash.

www.alienbees.com

The 400s are $225. Add 2 stands at around $120 for both, $100 for the softbox,
$25 for the umbrella. Total's $695, which gives some slack that he might want
to use for a boom.


Charlie Self

"Man is a reasoning rather than a reasonable animal."
Alexander Hamilton

http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/m.../business.html























 
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zeitgeist
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      12-21-2003


> Getting back into photography with digital. What would be a good start

for
> studio lights? Photoflood, strobe? Have done mostly outside, and fill
> lighting til now... but living on the foggy coastline of California leaves
> outside photography a chancy thing if you are depending on the sun

filtering
> through the trees for that great hair highlight!
>



learn to light with just one head before you start adding other lights,
especially fill lights or you'll never learn and your pics will imitate the
same glassy eyed splat nosed look of shopping mall kiddie pix and school
pix.




 
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JJ
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      12-21-2003

Bob Hatch <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:bs246r$8mkn0$(E-Mail Removed)-berlin.de...
>
> "JJ" <Cookie (E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:vd0Fb.499149$(E-Mail Removed)...
> > Getting back into photography with digital. What would be a good start

> for
> Part of the answer depends on what camera you're getting. At the very

least
> you should make sure that your camera will do custom/manual white balance.
> With this feature you can use photo flood, regular flood or spot lights,
> halogen work lights, etc and get excellent looking portraits. For studio
> strobes, I prefer White Lightning and have 5 set up for my uses. A main,
> background, fill, hair and second background or auxiliary.
>
> What camera?



I'm thinking about the Nikon D-100. I can use my lenses/flashes that I
already have for my 35mm Nikon. I already have a digital camera (Epson
3100z) but ALWAYS prefer the quality of my 35 mm - I am hoping that with
the Nikon digital SLR I can get the quality of 35mm pictures with the
convienence of digital.


 
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Paolo Pizzi
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      12-21-2003
Jim Waggener wrote:

> Photofloods are going to be much cheaper than strobes. But they do
> get hot.


Well, not necessarily. The ALZO "Cool lites" are awesome continuous
"cold" lights. They provide as much light as conventional lamps of equal
power but they don't get nearly as hot and they save you a lot of energy
$$$. Yes, of course they cost more than conventional continuous lights,
but a year of energy savings more than makes up for the difference in
price. BTW, they are rated at 5700 Kelvins, perfect for digicameras.


 
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Bob Hatch
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      12-21-2003
"JJ" <Cookie (E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:BIcFb.222508$(E-Mail Removed)...
>
>
>
> I'm thinking about the Nikon D-100. I can use my lenses/flashes that I
> already have for my 35mm Nikon. I already have a digital camera (Epson
> 3100z) but ALWAYS prefer the quality of my 35 mm - I am hoping that with
> the Nikon digital SLR I can get the quality of 35mm pictures with the
> convienence of digital.
>

You shouldn't be disappointed.

Some things to remember. Digital is a lot like shooting transparency so the
exposures are more critical than film. I know that a lot of folks are really
hung up on "always use raw" because then you can post process the images and
"fix" all the things you didn't get right at exposure time. But I'm
beginning to believe that some of these guys get an erection walking down
the meat isle in the grocery store.

Work as hard as possible to get the exposure right the first time and spend
more time taking images and less time messing with it in the computer. Do
custom white balance, get the exposure as close to dead on as possible. If
you ever did lab work you know that a properly exposed negative was easy to
print. One that was not exposed could be "saved", but always took more work.
IMO digital is a pure joy because there are a lot of things you can do
easier than you can with film.
--
"Secular nations have one thing in common -- mass graves, and
the reason is that they believe the government is the final arbiter
of right and wrong and good and evil." --Rob Schenk
http://www.bobhatch.com


 
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Howard McCollister
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      12-22-2003
"JJ" <Cookie (E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:BIcFb.222508$(E-Mail Removed)...
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm thinking about the Nikon D-100. I can use my lenses/flashes that I
> > already have for my 35mm Nikon. I already have a digital camera (Epson
> > 3100z) but ALWAYS prefer the quality of my 35 mm - I am hoping that

with
> > the Nikon digital SLR I can get the quality of 35mm pictures with the
> > convienence of digital.
> >


You should also be looking at the Fuji S2 Pro. Same body (N80) as the D100,
Nikon F mount, but with substantially better resolution and lower noise than
the D100.

HMc



 
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Paolo Pizzi
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      12-22-2003
Howard McCollister wrote:

> You should also be looking at the Fuji S2 Pro. Same body (N80)
> as the D100


The D100 has the internals of the F100 and, unlike the S2, it's
NOT encased in an N80 body (I have D100, F100 and N80,
so I can actually tell...) The D100 is better built than the S2, more
or less like the F100 is sturdier than the N80.

> Nikon F mount, but with substantially better resolution


Not true. The camera always generates a 12 mp image from the
honeycomb SuperCCD and then down-samples, thus giving the
IMPRESSION of a higher resolution. If you sharpen a D100
image in Photoshop, you will get a comparable result.

> lower noise than the D100.


Very marginally, not noticeable to the naked eye. The D100, on
the other hand, has much better colors. Unless you like Velvia-like
all the time... Also the S2 has very limited continuous shooting
capability (2 fps), no mirror lock-up or anti-vibration system
(critical when you are shooting with a long telephoto on a tripod),
no ISO 3200-6400 etc.

I'm not saying the S2 is a bad camera, actually it's pretty good,
but whoever tells you it's head and shoulders above the D100
isn't telling you the truth. Try both and decide by yourself.


 
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