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"Mark C" <> writes:
>Surely you start somewhere??? No?

With the Canon raw converter, at least, the camera settings for white
balance, sharpening, contrast, etc. become the default settings for the
raw conversion step. You can change them, but you don't have to. So
you could just accept the default settings.

Dave

On 11-Jul-2003, "Kenny" <> wrote:

> "Mark C" <> wrote in message
> news:ben1hv$73ajm$...
> > Thanx Tom.....so what do you strive for in those initial adjustments?
> >
>
> I love this guy. Ignore all the replies you don't like, even though they
> are correct, and follow up on the one that fits the answer you want.
>
> As far as I am concerned. I use C1LE with my 10D and I have NO common
> adjustments. If someone is always adjusting WB for instance, then he
> should learn how to use manual WB to speed up workflow. Adjustments are
> made as required and sometimes none are required.
>
> Maybe not what you want to hear, but for most of us that shoot RAW it's
> par for the course.

I don't think his question had right or wrong answers. It was a 'what do you
do' question not 'what is right'.

One reason I shoot raw is so I don't have to mess with camera white balance.
I don't think it impacts my workflow much and I like the results. If I'm
particularly concerned, I shoot a gray card in a frame and use it to make
the WB adjustments. With EV, I expose for the highlights with the
expectation of tweaking the exposure in the conversion process. I'd rather
underexpose than have blown out whites. Just because you choose to do it
differently doesn't make my way any less 'correct.'



--
Tom Thackrey
www.creative-light.com

"Mark C" <> wrote in message
news:bemvh1$75ad0$...
> Put rather simply...what adjustments do you make to almost every RAW image
> you convert...before working the picture in Photoshop.

Disable sharpening.

Bart

Mark C wrote:
>
> Put rather simply...what adjustments do you make to almost every RAW image
> you convert...before working the picture in Photoshop.
>

Before working on them in PS? None usually. With proper exposure,
most images need only a levels adjustment and final sharpening for
output.

I've found that the more precise my exposure, the less work needed in
post processing.

Lisa

On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 18:16:32 -0700, Lisa Horton <>
wrote/replied to:

>Before working on them in PS? None usually. With proper exposure,
>most images need only a levels adjustment and final sharpening for
>output.
>
>I've found that the more precise my exposure, the less work needed in
>post processing.

Getting your exposure right in camera is a great thing, but I think
you're missing a whole new world of adjustments in raw conversion.
There is no way doing these adjustments in Photoshop is the same
thing. I suggest you do some reading on exactly what you're doing.
Stretching the tonal range with levels in PS simply means Photoshop
has to fill in the missing info in the stretched areas and compress
those in other areas. What that amounts to is degraded image. Doing
this working with raw data from the camera is a much superior method.

And that' why I just bought Capture One LE. Check it out.



Jim Davis
Nature Photography
http://www.kjsl.com/~jbdavis/

Jim Davis wrote:
>
> On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 18:16:32 -0700, Lisa Horton <>
> wrote/replied to:
>
> >Before working on them in PS? None usually. With proper exposure,
> >most images need only a levels adjustment and final sharpening for
> >output.
> >
> >I've found that the more precise my exposure, the less work needed in
> >post processing.
>
> Getting your exposure right in camera is a great thing, but I think
> you're missing a whole new world of adjustments in raw conversion.
> There is no way doing these adjustments in Photoshop is the same
> thing. I suggest you do some reading on exactly what you're doing.
> Stretching the tonal range with levels in PS simply means Photoshop
> has to fill in the missing info in the stretched areas and compress
> those in other areas. What that amounts to is degraded image. Doing
> this working with raw data from the camera is a much superior method.
>
> And that' why I just bought Capture One LE. Check it out.
>

What I mean is that if the exposure is really good, there's little to
no blank space at either end of the histogram.

My workflow is oriented around my needs. I often shoot quite a few
images at a time, and need them finished fairly soon. So I do as much
as I can in batches. A bit of extra time and effort at shooting time
can mean the difference between images that can realistically be batch
processed and images that need individual attention. Batch processing
saves me money, individual processing costs me money. Well time,
really, but that's actually a more scarce commodity.

Now, I may go back and do a different process on the selects, in which
case I'd normally adjust each one at conversion time.

Lisa

In article <>,
Lisa Horton <> wrote:

> What I mean is that if the exposure is really good, there's little to
> no blank space at either end of the histogram.

Depends on the conditions. In sufficiently uncontrasty light I get lots
of blank space on both ends of the histogram.

--
David Eppstein http://www.ics.uci.edu/~eppstein/
Univ. of California, Irvine, School of Information & Computer Science

In article <3f0f364f$0$15032$>,
says...
>
> "Mark C" <> wrote in message
> news:ben1hv$73ajm$...
> > Thanx Tom.....so what do you strive for in those initial adjustments?
> >
>
> I love this guy. Ignore all the replies you don't like, even though they
> are correct, and follow up on the one that fits the answer you want.
>
> As far as I am concerned. I use C1LE with my 10D and I have NO common
> adjustments. If someone is always adjusting WB for instance, then he
> should learn how to use manual WB to speed up workflow. Adjustments are
> made as required and sometimes none are required.
>
> Maybe not what you want to hear, but for most of us that shoot RAW it's
> par for the course.
>
> Kenny
>
>
>
Thanks Kenny. That was the gist of the FIRST freakin reply. Everyone is
dancing around this when there is a simple answer to his question. (And
by some of the answers, I don't think some have even really read the
original question) Which I've (and now you ) have given. There are NO
common adjustments for every image. The guy is looking for some magic
answer.

The guy asks: what adjustments do you make to almost every RAW image
you convert...before working the picture in Photoshop.

That is all he asks. The answer is "THERE ARE NONE!"

NEXT

--
John O.
There is no slack in light attack.

On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 23:12:29 +0100, in
<3f0f364f$0$15032$>, "Kenny"
<> said:

>
>"Mark C" <> wrote in message
>news:ben1hv$73ajm$...
>> Thanx Tom.....so what do you strive for in those initial adjustments?
>>
>
>I love this guy. Ignore all the replies you don't like, even though they
>are correct, and follow up on the one that fits the answer you want.

Eh?
Why do you think he should be discussing your comment with you? You do
it your way, he does it way. No big deal.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 22:38:36 +0300, in
<ben3nt$rj9$>, "Pena" <>
said:

>I use slight Sharpening in C1 and in PS I resize in 2-3 steps down and USM
>slightly after every resize.
>This gives me significant sharper pictures (screen) than resizing at once to
>a certain size and after that sharpen.

I don't got to that much trouble, but I definitely prefer to sharpen
before resizing. IMO, it results in a cleaner image than sharpening
last.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------