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-   -   Philips DVP642 problem (nothing works) ( 08-30-2006 12:38 AM

Philips DVP642 problem (nothing works)
Hi. I have a Philips DVP642 that was working just fine before a two
week vacation. After returning, nothing except the "Stand By" light
works. The tray will not eject. It won't turn on or off. I've
unplugged it for hours and tried again, but nothing. When I hold down
the Stand By button, it just starts flashing. There are some DVD cases
on top of the unit, but they've been there long before I left and it
worked fine, so I don't think it's a matter of clearance. It's
possible that there is a disc in the tray and it may have been left on,
but I really don't know for sure. Any suggestions? It's out of
warranty, so Philips wants to charge me $15.00.

Mike S. 08-30-2006 01:35 AM

Re: Philips DVP642 problem (nothing works)

In article <1156898300.477118.223180@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups. com>,
<> wrote:
>Hi. I have a Philips DVP642 that was working just fine before a two
>week vacation. After returning, nothing except the "Stand By" light
>works. The tray will not eject. It won't turn on or off. I've
>unplugged it for hours and tried again, but nothing. When I hold down
>the Stand By button, it just starts flashing. There are some DVD cases
>on top of the unit, but they've been there long before I left and it
>worked fine, so I don't think it's a matter of clearance. It's
>possible that there is a disc in the tray and it may have been left on,
>but I really don't know for sure. Any suggestions? It's out of
>warranty, so Philips wants to charge me $15.00.

A quick Google search would turn up gazillions of posts on this. A
capacitor in the power supply has gone bad. If you can wield a soldering
iron, you can fix it for pennies.

One example:

Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem..
__________________________________________________ _______________

Common DVP 642 problem (only problem with a great player): They die,
and you have a blinking red power button.

This is actually surprisingly easy to fix. It's really easier than I
make it look, but I'm just being really clear in case anyone reading
this has never seen a soldering iron before. Here are the steps I did
(and note that, if you're still under warranty, this will void your
warranty). The decision to try this is up to your own discretion
and may be a last ditch effort before throwing the player away.

Short version: Check the board to see if capacitor C316 is bulging. If
so, get a 1000u capacitor >=16V and replace it.

Long version:

1. Unplug everything
2. Unscrew the side and rear screws to remove the top cover.
3. On the board where the power cable goes in, look for a capacitor
(looks like a little drum with a '+' on the
top) that is bulging upward either a little or a lot. It may be
leaking some brown fluid as well.
4. I'm betting that the writing on the board at this location says
'C316'. If you google 'dvp642' and 'c316', you'll get hundreds of hits...
5. If that's the case, you'll need to find a capacitor and a soldering
iron. Visit radio shack or similar electronics
place and buy an elecrolytic capacitor that says 1000u (the 'u' is
actually a lower case greek 'mu') with a
voltage greater than or equal to 16v (this is not calculated: it's
simply what others have reported success with.
I couldn't find one and used a 35V one instead). You should be able to
find one that looks somewhat similar to
the damaged one (it might be a little bigger or smaller, but you'll
want the same basic shape). This should cost less than $2.
6. Borrow or buy a cheap soldering iron and some solder. I borrowed
one from a friend at work...this is NOT
my area of expertise, so don't worry about the difficulty!
7. Now the tricky part: back on your DVD player, you need to get that
board out. Unplug the two cables
connecting to the board we're working on, unscrew the screws holding
it down, and, using some pliers, hold
down the wings of the little plastic piece that is still holding the
board down and slide the board up. I flipped
this around to get at the bottom while leaving the power cord in
8. Heat up the soldering iron. Locate the spot on the bottom of the
board where the C316 capacitor is attached.
Remove your new capacitor from the package. There should be one
shorter leg which is the negative side. It
will likely be marked this way as well.
9. One side of the capacitor should have a ' -' on it. Note which side
this is. You may not be able to see it until it
is removed, so be aware of needing to know this as you remove it.
10. After it is warm enough to melt solder, lay the soldering iron
across the joints you identified as belonging to
C316. Tug gently on C316 as you do this and it should soon come free.
This is a little tricky to hold the iron,
the board, and the capacitor all at once, so please don't burn
yourself! Again, note which side is negative and
which hole it came from. This is the negative hole, and the other is
positive. There will likely be some solder
left over around each hole. Just try not to let it run between the two
holes or you will short out the connection.
11. Grab your new capacitor and line up the longer leg with the
positive hole. Lay the soldering iron against
that hole on the other side and push the leg through. Line up the
negative leg/hole and repeat. Lay the iron
across both to heat up enough to push the capacitor legs through and
the capacitor down to the board.
12. Check the connections for each leg. There should be a small mound
of solder joining each leg to the metal
of the board, but not running to any other point of the board. If it's
run to some other points, you'll need to do
some searching to see how to clean up it up a little bit as I'm not an
expert at this. If you need a little more
solder, lay the iron across the joint for a few seconds, then feed
your solder into the hot spot until a small
amount flows over the joint. Remove the iron, wait a moment, then
remove the solder. Look at the other
solder joints on the board for a rough idea of how it should look.
13. Use some wire cutters to trim the legs down to the solder.
14. Pop the board back over the plastic piece and reconnect the cables.
15. At this point, you're on your own. Personally, I made sure I
wasn't touching any metal and plugged it in.
Since I didn't blow any fuses and the player seemed to work, I
unplugged it, reassembled it, and went to watch a movie.

seaniekaye 08-04-2007 05:45 PM

Thank you so much! I haven't soldered anything since I was in cub scouts, but this was a piece of cake. My DVP-642 would have ended up in the trash otherwise, and I love this thing. thank you thank you .

cap1 10-01-2007 12:34 AM

I am experiencing the identical problem as "animlovr" described above and when I saw this thread I knew I had a solution. So today I went to Radio Shack and purchsased a 1000u, 50VDC capacitor - their part # 272-1047 ($2.59). I opened the DVD and removed the power board and now have several questions:

1. I cannot locate a C316 on the board. The only capacitor that looks anything like what I bought at Radio Shack is labled C304. C304 is mounted in such a way that I cannot read the specs printed on it. However, C304 is the only capacitor whose size comes anywhere close to Radio Shack part # 272-1047 - i.e., a cylinder about 1" long and about 1/2" diameter. Is this the same one ?

2. C304 does not show any signs of bulging or leaking as "Mike" said in paragraph 2. Could it still be bad even if doesn't display these signs ?

3. Radio Shack part # 272-1047 has one lead from each end, whereas C304 has both leads on the same end. Should I try to make # 272-1047 fit or should I search for one with both leads on the same end ?

4. In addition to being soldered down, C304 appears to be cemented to the power board. How do I remove it from the board without causing any other damage ?

I don't know if this makes any difference, but my DVD player is a DVP642/37.

Thank you in advance for your help. I am pleased with this DVD player and would just love to get it back up and running for $2.59 !

goalstopper 03-02-2008 08:42 PM

Works Perfect
Thanks for the post, worked great

zarniwoop 01-21-2009 04:07 AM

Philips DVP642 problem (nothing works)
Thank You, Thank You and Thank You!

My DVP642 did the blinking red light and nothing else trick.

Picked up a 1000u, 50VDC capacitor part # 272-1047 from
radio shack.

Found the BULGING cap c316 and replaced it with the radio shack


Thanks Mike S. and Cap 1. This is much better than buying a player.
Thanks again.


imet 12-01-2009 12:30 PM

Thank you !
I took the time to register on the forum just to say THANK YOU. It worked perfectly for less than 5 USD all included (capacitor + iron). I did it with my son of 14 and am a woman with no technician background.
After experience, a few hints more :
- when you want to detach the panel, there is a little white plastic tower that you have to narrow to be abble to unplug the panel
- when using the iron to take the damaged capacitor away, be patient : it does not melt so easily
- the minus side is the side with grey strip (on the left handside if you face the capacitor when looking from the DVD handside (shortest side of DVD player)
- when putting the new capacitor, be careful not to break the tiny "iron" things and fold them smoothly on each side not trying to push as much as you can on the capacitor on the other side
- be very careful not to make "bridges" when using the iron to put the new capacitor back, do it little by little.

All in all great fun and experience, money saved and good for the planet as I did not have to throw the DVD player away.

By the way, I have other electronic things to repair, how do you find the component that is failing ?

Thanks again.

qdin 12-22-2009 10:59 PM

one more success story
I was ready to bust my DVD player open Office Space style to retrieve my Total Recall disc. Just before going to get my hammer, I hopped on the net and found this posting.

I have a little bit of soldering experience, but am pretty bad at it in general... but still managed to get the old cap out and the new one in.

Needless to say, my player works fine now (at least for the past 10 min) and my Total Recall DVD is safe and sound without a scratch.

FYI, I used a different model: 272-1032. It's 1000uF, but only 35V max, which still more than satisfies the >=16V constraint. It was also nearly half the price ($1.59). I bought two in case this happens again.

A note to some guys/gals above: 272-1047 is an "axial lead" cap (leads on either side of the cylinder, so I'm not sure how you got this to work. 272-1032 is "radial lead" (leads on one side of the cylinder), like C316.

Nothin' like some good ol' fashioned DIY fun.



mms 01-03-2010 06:07 AM

Many thanks to all of your comments & notes!

I just did the repair and a couple notes:

I am female, never soldered anything before. It is rather easy, though patience is important!

My C316 capacitor looked completely intact--NO bulging/oozing, nothing. I still decided to replace it, because the symptoms were exactly the same. And it was the problem.

It helps to have a second set of hands with the soldering, both the removal and soldering the new capacitor in.

I also picked up the 272-1032 1000mf 35volt one.

It was my 1st time soldering, patience was important in the removal(make sure you pay attention to the way the original faces); with installation I had the circuit board thing upside-down, and after little success at getting the melted solder to end up where I wanted it, I held the solder parallel to the prong of the capacitor and let the melted blob slide down the prong. It worked great that way.

I started "researching" this issue around 3 pm, had materials around 8:30pm and finished about 10pm (I tried using an old solder gun thing that somebody lent me 1st, it was too big though, then reverted to an $8 one that I bought at Radio Shack that came with solder).

Good luck to all who come after us!! :)

larryb 06-15-2010 12:47 AM

Another success story
Just wanted to weigh in with my thanks for this. My DVP642 just started doing this last night as we sat down to watch some 'Monk'. Thanks to Google, I found this thread describing my symptoms exactly.

My C316 cap was intact, visually, but I trotted over to Radio Shack during my lunch today, bought the 1000uF 35V cap for $1.59, and soldered it in after dinner tonight.

I removed the power supply circuit board entirely (needle-nose pliers will help disconnect the ribbon cables and remove the board from the plastic clip that holds it to the bottom of the player), and gently held it in a bench vise while I replaced the capacitor. Piece of cake.

Worked perfectly. Total outlay: less than $2 and about 20 minutes of my time. Payback: a working DVD player and a sense of satisfaction.

These days, it's so unusual that you can fix things like this yourself...I'm grateful to save the money, and keep this unit out of a landfill. Thank you!

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